Bellivière 2020 Coteaux du Loir L'Effraie

The Bellivière "L'Effraie" Coteaux du Loir is just superb - coming after 4 difficult vintages, fiinally in 2020 there were good yields and perfect ripeness. Here is the Wine Doctor review and we agree..."an assemblage from 3.5 hectares of vines aged between 10 and 15 years, planted across 11 parcels. In this vintage it has a gentle demi-sec style with 16 g/L of residual sugar, and it was bottled just one week before my tasting. This displays great purity on the nose, with white peach and crushed chalk intertwined, along with a touch of mint. The palate builds on this excellent first impression, as it has texture and richness, breadth and substance, yet it drives forward across the palate with a great sense of energy. This is, especially taking into account it’s position in the portfolio, simply beautiful." Serve a an aperitif this summer, with melon or with a full-flavored fish or poultry dish...

Source du Ruault 2019 Saumur Blanc "La Coulée d' Aunis"

The Source du Ruault "Coulée D'Aunis" is from a beautiful south-facing vineyard near the Loire river on Turonian limestone with clay. The 2019 shows a lovely light gold color and aromas of dried pear, lemon zest, anise, lime-flower, almond and stone, very bright and vibrant. There is very firm chalky acidity on the palate, really a scintillating texture with white fruits, citrus, herbal and stone flavors. The finish is long and extremely mineral, almost bitter, with brisk acidity lingering on the palate. Give this a decant or open the night before if drinking now, serve this  bright and vibrant Chenin with shellfish, a full-flavored ceviche, baked cod. Beautiful now, five to ten years of cellaring will be very interesting...

Pinon 2020 Vouvray Buvez du Bon Pinon

(Arrives 8/22) From the estate's website: "This is the renaissance of a cuvée created by my great-grandfather - a dry wine from our oldest parcel, planted in 1945 on soils of silex noir and vinfied in our oldest foudres - old 'tonneaux' from Porto purchased by my grandfather. We're using the label from the 1950s as well as the name of the cuvée - the famous 'Buvéz du Bon Pinon.' The fermentation lasted 2 to 3 months with only wild yeasts, which participate in the effect of 'terroir.' The fermentation was stopped by chilling the juice, followed by a soutirage, the wine then aged for 5 months in the old tonneaux. Aging potential of 15 to 20 years, serve with shellfish, oysters, cold fish, vegetable terrines, choucroute de la mer, rillettes and rillons." 7 grams/liter RS, 13.5% alcohol. This superb and elegant Vouvray is quite a contrast from the more open and expressive 2020 Sec. The "Buvez du Bon Pinon" is all elegance and depth, but quite closed, and just slightly opening on day two. The aromas are deep and creamy with subtle white peach, quince, earth, almond and stone, really needs time... The palate is dense and full with white and yellow fruits blending with earth, almond, anise and mineral notes. The wine is showing density and perfect balance but will need many years to really emerge - like the Huet Le Mont Sec, for example, give it ten years before drinking if possible - or a 12 hour decant if drinking now. Of course it's delicious today but try to wait...  David Lillie

Pépière 2019 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Cru Château Thébaud

(Arrives 5/23) The Château Thébaud comes from old vines in vineyards with great terroir on slopes overlooking the river Maine. The granite here (Granite de Château Thébaud, oddly enough) is fissured and permeable by the vine roots which have access to water during dry spells and absorb micro-nutrients along the way.  2009, 2010, 2012 and 2014 here were among the best of the vintage in Muscadet and the 2019 will stand out as well due to the combination of density and minerality with the firm acidity and great ripeness of this very good vintage year for Muscadet. Our tasting in February revealed a superb Muscadet, not marked by the heat of the vintage, showing crystalline white fruit and stone flavors with firm acidity, fantastic purity, density and length. Of course this will offer briliant drinking as a young wine, but try to put some away for ten years at least...

Finot, Thomas 2020 Coteaux Grésivaudan (Isère) Verdesse (Sec)

According to the hefty Wine Grapes book (Robinson/Harding/Vouillamoz), there were a total of about 2 hectares (5 acres) of Verdesse in the world as of 2008. Thomas Finot now says there is about 3-4 hectares total. Thomas started with an old plantation of about 2 ares (200 square meters, or .05 acres) and now has about 1.5 hectares, mostly of younger vines he planted. Verdesse is a grape that, according to Thomas, is green for a long time, and typically ripens late, gaining a golden and amber color at the "very last moment."The color is a glimmering yellow, with dashes of green. The nose is warm, with a little smoke, grilled yellow apricot, and crumbled Provencal herbs. The palate here is beyond lovely - one where the flavors and the structure of the wine cannot be separated. When the wine hits the tongue, there is a literal second where it is light and simple, but it immediately grows. A rich and tender palate with lemons, orange zest, apricot, and minerals. Long finish, ends with herbs and green tea.

Lulu Vigneron (Ludwig Bindernagel) 2019 Côtes du Jura BB1 Chard/Savagnin

Ludwig Bindernagel, a favorite of ours from the Jura, currently works with the newly-minted Lulu label. However, when he first came to the region in the early 2000s, he produced wines as Les Chais du Vieux Bourg, the domaine he had purchased. ‘BB1,’ though it may sound technical, or even scientific, stands for ‘Baby One,’ as it was the first cuvée Lulu ever created. It is a blend of Chardonnay and Savignin, and produced in a topped-up, or ouille, style. Hints of crisp apple and salt on the nose, with a delicate, slightly floral and oxidative character. Zingy on the palate, with pear, cured lemon, white pepper and salt. Incredibly balanced - neither the Savagnin or the Chardonnay steals the show in the glass. Spot on, Lulu! Bring on the Comte! -DH

Gripa 2011 Saint-Peray Les Figuiers

This little-known wine from Bernard and Fabrice Gripa is one of the most delicious and fascinating wines of the Northern Rhône. From 50 to 60 yeal-old vines in Saint-Peray, 60% Roussanne and 40% Marsanne. "Fine yellow robe. Aniseed and hazelnut tally well together on the front nose; peach and acacia flowers are present, with a typical Saint-Péray tang of saltiness. The palate offers an intricate mix of fruit and more substantial, nutted flavours. It expands steadily on the later palate, has good length and gives a tickle of late acidity. It needs time to fuse – is not an obvious wine. Has something of a red wine in its make-up and late grounding."  Livingston-Learmonth in DrinkRhône  Tasted May 25, 2023 at CSW: The wine is showing beautifully, with secondary aromas joining the fresh white and yellow fruits. Perfect acidity, silky texture, very mineral and long. A great match for a full-bodied fish or poultry dish, just delicious. Drink over the next 3 - 5 years.

Rateau 2022 Cote de Beaune La Grande Chatelaine

About a kilometer or two northwest of the Beaune 1er Crus, La Grande Chatelaine is a cooler site with soils comprised of clay over limestone. The 2022 Clos de la Grande Chatelain is 90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Blanc and Pinot Beurot. This is a great vintage for the Grande Chatelaine - it's classy and elegant wine with fresh cool-toned aromatics of white flowers,  nectarine, rainwater,  and pear skin. The medium-bodied palate is a little warmer toned  offering flavors of nectarine, white peach, and crushed herb with a fairly savory finish. Beautiful wine!

Peciña, Hermanos de 2019 Rioja Blanco

Pecina provides one of Rioja's greatest examples of fresh yet complex young white wine. 100% Viura,  fermented with native yeasts and raised entirely in stainless steel (with several months on the lees and up to a year in bottle), for a bold, bright white, with cool herbal and waxen aromas, followed by flavors of tangy white grapefruit and green apple, and fresh green herbs. A spectacular bargain and a nice change from your everyday white, perfect for pairing with salads, fish, poultry and pesto.

Albamar 2022 Rias Baixas Albariño

This beloved entry level cuvée from Albamar is made from grapes sourced from multiple sites with mainly sandy soil. The fruit from each parcel is vinified separately (some in stainless steel, some in barrels) gaining structure and complexity of flavor from six months spent on the fine lees. This is a very good, classic expression of Albariño with plenty of saline minerality and joyous notes of stone-fruit and sea air. The 2022 is everything we want our Albariño to be - direct and fresh, with laser-like acidity but also revealing layers of mineral flavors and somehow feeling balanced and not overly acidic. You'll regret just getting one bottle so at least double up!

Chidaine, François 2020 Montlouis Sur Loire Les Bournais

This is our favorite wine from François and Manuela Chidaine, long-time champions of organic and biodynamic farming in the Loire Valley. Named after the soil type "Les Bournais," a unique clay topsoil over limestone (tuffeau blanche) also found across the river in Vouvray and without the silex present in most Montlouis terroirs. First made in a sec-tendre style, recent vintages have been dry, with the 2020 showing power and balance  at 3 g/L RS, 14.5% alc and 3.95 g/L total acidity. In the glass, the color is glimmering lemon. The nose is firm with apricot, citrus peel, and oyster shell, with healthy green herbs and lovely grassy aromas. The palate is salty, with a touch of anise, with lime zest and a touch of bitter nectarine. A great swish in the mouth, punctuated by a beam of vibrant acidity. The finish is long and mouthwatering. Delicious!

Martin, Pierre 2021 Sancerre Les Culs de Beaujeu

Judging by this wine, the young Pierre Martin, who took over from his father about ten years ago, is doing great work in the vineyards and in the cellar. From one of the three finest vineyards in Sancerre, the 2021 "Culs de Beaujeu" shows very elegant aromas of dried fruits, pear and apple, with citrus and floral hints which are underpinned by pronounced earth  and mineral notes - quite complex and deep. and a bit brighter than the 2020. The palate is dense and sapid, showing more white fruits than citrus and with a very dense core of minerals that continue with firm acidity in the very long finish. Yields were low in 2021 and the wine has a more dense mineral core - the wine is built to age and will benefit from decanting or many hours open if drinking now. This is a great Sancerre to enjoy now and over the next five to ten years, really quite special.

Pellé 2021 Menetou-Salon Blanchais

The Pellé Menetou-Salon "Les Blanchais" is from a single vineyard of massale selection vines planted in 1966. The soils are clay and silex over Kimmeridgian limestone as in Chablis and in the commune of Chavignol in Sancerre. Like the best wines of Chavignol, the "Les Blanchais" is vibrant and delicious as a young wine and will develop beautifully in the cellar for ten years or more. Paul-Henry Pellé farms the vines organically ferments the wines with native yeast and in the case of the parcellaires, élévage is a combination of barrels, foudre, and tank. The wines display a deft balance of ripeness, soil signature, and vivacity. And though they are delicious young, a bottle squirreled away for a few years will delight as the gorgeous fruit knits with the undercurrent of chalky minerality within. Open this a bit in advance if possible - cellar for 3-5 years and I imagine this will shine.

Amphores 2021 Condrieu "La Côte"

(Arrives 5/16) The Domaine des Amphores Condriueu is 100% massale-selection Viognier from 0.5 hectare on poor granite-based soils at 250 metres on La Côte at Chavanay. The 2021 La Côte has a pale yellow gold robe. The nose offers a subtle and intriguing mélange of toasted nuts, salted pineapple, chestnut honey, pear, stone and a hint of spice. The palate shades savory with a granitic spine and roasted peach, and green almond flavors on a sleek  and mineral palate. There’s a pleasing phenolic, stony bitterness  and freshness closing out the finish, with teriffic length. This is a less exotic and exuberant expression, but perfect for the table—think skate with brown butter, halibut or roasted chicken with fricasséed morels!

Rousset 2021 Crôzes-Hermitage Marsanne Vieilles Vignes

 This is an oustanding Marsanne from vines planted in  1933 and 1965, aged in 10% new, 90% 1 - 3 year-old 400 liter barrels, 8 months on the lees, no batonnage. The 2021 Vieilles Vignes is an outstanding wine showing elegant aromas of white peach and plum, lemon zest, stone and oak; the palate is beautifully structured with the density, mineral flavors and firm acidity of the low yielding 2021 vintage. The finish is lovely with stone, white and yellow fruits, citrus zest, long and very elegant, really showing the old vines. Open well in advance or cellar 3 to 5 years, allowing the oak to fully integrate, then enjoy until 2035. (About 80 cases made) Pair this beautiful wine with full-flavored fish and chicken dishes and goat cheeses, or as the Roussets suggest, with rock fish, veal marengo and mushroom risotto! David Lillie

Chazelles (Jean-Marie Chaland) 2021 Viré-Clessé Vieilles Vignes

Produced at Jean-Marie Chaland's Domaine Sainte-Barbe, the "Les Chazelles Vieilles Vignes"is from 50 to 80 year-old vines on a south-east facing slope that has never been treated with herbicides, certified organic since 2003. The grapes are hand-harvested and ferment with wild yeasts at low temperature, followed by 10 months aging in cuve inox and old barriques. Dense flavors of golden apple and stone fruit with an invigorating touch of acid. This is a great Chardonnay with concentration and freshness that could age beautifully for years.

Fichet 2021 Bourgogne Blanc Vieilles Vignes

3 btl max please

Rateau 2020 Beaune 1er Cru Les Coucherias

Beaune 1er Cru "Les Coucherias" is  a steep parcel high on the slope, on the site of an old quarry and much of the sub-soil is limestone tailings, permitting root penetration and drainage, with a topsoil of mixed clay and limestone "marnes blanches." In biodynamic agriculture since 1979, the vineyard is a south-facing semi-circle—a very warm spot giving a full, ripe wine. (tasted from a 12 year-old barrel) Light gold/brass color. Lovely aromas of pear, quince, lime-flower and ripe citrus. The palate is  elegant and supple, with white fruits, almond, citrus and caramel framed in firm acidity and mineral flavors, showing good ripeness but finishing with firm stony acidity. Lovely wine. Delicious now, this should age gracefully till 2035 and beyond.

Can Sumoi (Escala / Raventos) 2021 Sant Sadurni d'Anoia Xarel-lo

A collaboration between our dear friend Pepe Raventos and a fellow winemaker from Sant Sadurni D'Anoia, in Catalunya, Francesc Escala. Can Sumoi is an old farm dating back to 1645, at 600m altitude. This is textbook Xarel-lo, with fresh wet stones and nice lift and acidity.

Pablo Matallana 2021 Lanzarote (Canary Islands) Taro 'Frias'

Frias is a parcel of 120+ year old vines on limestone terroir covered in black volcanic ash. A bit more experimental than the Blanco bottling, the Frias is all Listan Blanco that is destemmed and fermented in stainless steel with about 7 days of skin contact. The wine has an alluring aroma, florals and peach skins, a little musky, with stone fruits and lemon pith. The palate is textured, with a combination of mineral and tannic structure that provide delicate grip. Should pair well with crudo and ctirus, grilled veggies, anything with romesco sauce, FISH!, we'll have to ask Pablo what else he likes it with! // Pablo's Tasting Note: "Since we started the project in 2018, we have separately produced and bottled this plot that the Fajardo family has been cultivating for over 100 years, located on the south-west face of the Tisalaya mountain at 300 above sea level. It is a 2.5 hectares vineyard with the peculiarity of being planted mainly with Listán blanco, but also with Malvasía and Diego grapevines. Despite its orientation, this plot has a particularly cool microclimate that makes the ripening process gentle and prolonged over time. Because of this, we usually harvest a little later than the rest of the plots, but we never obtain wines with more than 11.5% alcohol content, always maintaining the freshness and drinkability that characterizes it. This 2021 edition is made in a similar way as in 2019, macerating with the skins. This time a little shorter, around 7 days, looking for more purity, definition and a kinder tactile sensation. It is kept on its fine lees in stainless steel for 10 months until bottling, unfiltered and with very little sulfur."

Rafael Palacios 2021 Valdeorras 'Louro do Bolo' Godello

From Rafael Palacios' younger vines in Valdeorras, this is a clean and subtly dense Godello, fermented with indigenous yeasts in large foudres, and aged on the fine lees for four months. A big hit at a recent in-store tasting, we often liken this style of fresh and layered Godello to a good village level Chablis, or Macconais white. There are obvious similarities to a mineral-driven, unoaked Chardonnay, the stoniness at opening, and subtle weight that is expressed after the wine has had time to breath. A fantastic candidate with grilled fish with herbs, or poultry, but perfectly delicious on its own too! -EL

Raúl Pérez 2020 Bierzo Ultreia Godello

This is a lovely "village level" Godello from about 7 different plots that Raúl tends in Bierzo. Fermentation is mostly in barrel, with some fermentation in steel tank, and aging is all in barrels. Raúl uses a mix of 200L, 500L and 5000L barrels, with the youngest barrel at 4 years old. Impressive minerality here, with fresh flowers and a hint of herbs. Very clean finish and a lovely mid-palate. -EL

Luis Seabra 2021 Douro Xisto Ilimitado Branco

Luis Seabra’s wines are a sublime example of the terroir of his native Douro Valley. His wines are always terroir-driven, and his dedication to expressions of schist-soil is the most important factor in his wine-making. Xisto Illimatado Branco (a Portuguese analogue to the idea of a “village” level Burgundy) is a field-blend of Rabigato, Codega, Gouveiu and Viosinho from 30-45 year-old vines, planted at high elevation in Cima Corgo, a subregion in the Douro Valley that experiences extreme variances in temperature (allowing an extended hanging period for the fruit). The wine offers the closest expression to Chablis outside of Burgundy: bright acidity, ultra-expressive minerality, with notes of ripe citrus, green apple, slate minerals. Seabra’s wines can be aged for another decade, but can be enjoyed today with oysters, scallops, and rock shrimp tempura. JDC

Leitz, Josef 2019 Rheingau Rüdesheimer Berg Kaisersteinfels Riesling

From high above the Berg Schlossberg on the westernmost corner of the Rheingau before the river turns north. Kaisersteinfels is a small,  all terraced vineyard that Johannes Leitz repaired after purchasing and his favorite of all. Comprised of red slate with quartzite, it produces super expressive mineral wines from it's old vines. Explosive on the nose and palate with citrus, peach and minerality galore with vibrant acidity and an incredibly long finish.  As breathtaking as the view from it's precarious perch! Giselle Hamburg

Pichler, FX 2019 Wachau Burgstall Riesling Federspiel

From a windy plateau above the Danube used to herd livestock as a fortification in the first settlement Liupna during the Middle Ages.The nose opens with assertive aromas of  white peach, faint petrol, orange zest, lime blossom, and a hint of pink grapefruit on a smoky, mineral background.  Pichler keeps things very traditional in the cellar and utilizes large, neutral oak casks to mature their wines. This one is salty and fresh on a medium-bodied, slightly glossy palate that’s boasting white nectarine, lime peel, flint, tart pear,  white pepper and grapefruit peel that gives verve and nerve to the entire wine, corsetting its ripeness with delicious citric acidity.   Perfectly crunchy acidity delivers a precisely layered and dry Riesling with classic Wachau grip and tension. Ripe and fresh but not green or vegetal, just grippy and refreshingly racy. A thrilling summertime riesling. Giselle Hamburg

Argyros Atlantis 2021 Santorini Assyrtiko

Finally, we hit liquid gold with this new find from Santorini ! Established in 1903, the Argyros family has been involved in wine production for decades before that and are the largest private owner of vineyards in Santorini. Made from 90% Assyrtiko with 5% each Aidani and Athiri from 60 year old vines, the Atlantis  has everything in spades one expects from Santorini: smoky minerality, zesty acidity with lemony citrus and island herbs. Medium to full bodied, it's just begging for grilled octopus, shrimp, white fish, briny oysters and pork to accompany  it. Back up the truck and get this bad boy by the case while it lasts! GIselle Hamburg

Biblia Chora Olivos 2020 Kavala Macedonia Assyrtiko Semillon

Situated on the southern slopes of Mount Pangeon in Kavala, Macedonia, 100km east of Thessaloniki off the coast. Vineyards are at high altitudes of 1000 ft embuing all their wines with delightful brightness and cut. The white Olivos blend is an homage to white Bordeaux of yore with equal amounts Semillon and Assyrtiko (the latter replacing the Sauvignon Blanc). The former adds fragrant expression and ageing ability whilst the latter adds strength, structure and exceptional freshness. After a brief maceration on the skins, the wine is fermented in French oak and left in contact with the lees in barrel for a few months to add structure and complexity. Yet the overall tone is one of cool herbaceousness, with flinty minerality, ripe peach and grapefruit with a rich, creamy body. An absolutely classy stunner just begging for some roasted white meats and fish. Giselle Hamburg

Outward 2021 Paso Robles Highlands Chenin Blanc - Shell Creek

This is 100% Chenin Blanc from the Shell Creek Vineyard, planted in 1971 and among the first vineyards planted in San Luis Obispo County. It is a unique place, sitting beneath limestone cliffs and featuring marine fossils brought in by the seasonal riverbed which gives it its name. The 2021 Shell Creek Chenin Blanc was harvested on August 25, 2021, grapes were foot-stomped and soaked on the skins for 24 hours before pressing. After being pressed, the juice was transferred to neutral oak barrels where it underwent a native yeast fermentation. The wine was aged for 10 months before bottling without fining or filtration. It really shows the chalky mineral depth Chenin is capable of, chiseled and composed while still having some richness. There's great texture and crisp acidity, subtle fruit and a long mineral finish. A beautiful wine! JD

Porter Creek 2019 Russian River Valley Chardonnay - George's Hill

Sourced from the estate's George's Hill vineyard, named in honor of founder George Davis who purchased the land in 1977, this biodynamically farmed vineyard site produces some of the most exciting Chardonnay in the entire Russian River. This wine is big on texture and has great aromatic power, with notes of white fruits, green apple, almond, and darker mineral, oily, almost saline notes. On the palate there are elegant white and yellow fruits with creamy acidity, with ripe peach character filling out the back end as it slips into a long, softly nuanced finish that cycles between cream, citrus, and hazelnut. Tastes great now, but will continue to improve in the cellar for at least ten years.