The wines of Pablo Matallana: Canary Island expressions from Lanzarote and Tenerife

Share

Here at Chambers Street Wines, our fascination and passion for Canary Island wines spans over a decade, from our earliest experiences with the unique wines of the region by way of producers like Bermejos, Tajinaste and Fronton de Oro, to the visionary wines of Borja Perez, and the precise and site specific releases from Envinate. We've done our best to accurately understand the "Canary funk" expressed most often in wines from Tenerife, and more specifically the Orotava D.O. This mix of a common type of reduction and a volcanic smokiness inevitably baffles one or all of our friends, and continues to be a unique mystery of these wines, a regional signature, so to speak. Though a deep dive into our favorite Canary wines is long overdue, today's email is all about the soulful wines of Pablo Matallana, a Canary native whose wines encapsulate all of the magic, precision and singularity of the region.

Pablo Matallana

Originally born in Tenerife, Pablo's family comes from Lanzarote, and he has developed connections and acquired vineyards on both islands. He's even working on a tiny project in Fuertaventura! Over many years, Pablo has established close relationships with families in the Canary Islands that have been tending vineyards for generations. All of the vineyards are very small and the work seems somewhat painstaking, but Pablo is full of passion, pride, and a deep sense of gratitude for the connections he has been able to forge with these local families and the chance to share their history with the world through these unique wines. Meeting him recently during his first visit to New York was a joy. He was completely wide-eyed, having just arrived from the airport to meet us for a quick meal at Cervo's in the Lower East Side, but once his excitement subsided, we talked for a while about his project, his heritage, and the great honor that he feels. He is not only humbled by his work with the families in Lanzarote and Tenerife, but also very proud to be in a position to produce wines from these ancient sites, and tell the story of the Canary Islands to the rest of the world.

Vines in Lanzarote, Canary Islands

Pablo didn't come from a winemaking family, but he studied at the well-respected oenology school in Valencia, before stints in Chile and Catalunya (Priorat). It's actually a bit impressive to think that his first vintage in the Canary Islands was in 2015, as his wines are already so balanced and his approach with each wine so deeply thought out and intentional. Most of the vineyards that Pablo works with are in Lanzarote, near the Timanfaya National Park. The area is extremely dry, and winds batter the island constantly, necessitating the hoyos (walled holes) or zanjas (trenches) that are dug into the ground in order to protect the vines.

Though I've never been to the Canary Islands*, I have spoken with enough winemakers and friends to understand that it is truly a unique place in the world, especially for viticulture. Images help to portray the landscape and pique the curiosity. The wines play their part too, and Pablo's are perhaps the most perfect choice for an introduction. His winemaking is precise and though I did mention the occasional experience with reduction, particularly with wines from the Orotava DO in Tenerife, Pablo's wines are mostly from Lanzarote, are free of the mystifiying aromas of reduction, and do not require the patience or 30-40 minutes of air that we often give to the "funkier" wines from the area. We couldn't think of a better way to dive into the wines of the Canary Islands than with these offerings from Pablo, and are very happy to be able to highlight his wines in a relatively comprehensive way for the first time!

If anyone wants to dig deeper on the viticultural history of the Canary Islands, we highly recommend reading this article that goes into more detail. For now, we'll leave you with a quote that Pablo provided with his 2021 release:

"...There will be no real development without alternative policies that respect the sustainable relationship between and among humans and their environment....” Fundación César Manrique Manifiesto por la Sostenibilidad de Lanzarote. 1999

Cheers! from Pablo and Eben

 

*Correction: It turns out that I spent a month in Los Palmas, Gran Canaria, when I was 13 months old and my father was gigging at the Beach Club and drinking the local juice. -Eben Lillie

No Longer Available

Pablo Matallana 2021 Lanzarote (Canary Islands) Pet-Nat Malvasia

This bright, complex Pet-Nat is all Malvasia from one parcel of younger vines planted about 20 years ago. Soils are clay covered in volcanic ash. Grapes were destemmed and fermentation was in stainless steel. Bottling was done before original fermentation and agins was for 13 months before disgorgement. The nose is floral (but not too floral), stony, and very pure, and the palate has impressive length for a Pet-Nat, a category of sparkling wine that is often deemed less complex compared to Traditional method sparklers. // Pablo's Tasting Note: "Our beloved little bubbles, emerged from the beginning of the project in a quest to achieve a wine that was as refreshing as possible without losing complexity along the way. To this end, we decided to make it from a thoughtful blend of Malvasia and Diego fermented together. In the first two editions of 2018 and 2019 it was made from an estate in La Florida that belongs to the Carrasco family, however, due to the drought of recent years we have not been able to harvest enough to do so. Because of this, and after a 2020 without making it, we decided to develop it in a different way. This 2021 was made 100% with Malvasia grown in traditional ditches in La Vegueta. The result is great, and we believe it will meet its hydration needs, but we remain hopeful that the Carrasco family's beloved vines will recover again."

  • Out of Stock
  • white sparkling
  • 0 in stock
  • no discount
  • $39.99

  • Organic
  • Low Sulfur

Pablo Matallana 2020 Lanzarote (Canary Islands) Taro Blanco

Pablo's main wine, the Taro Blanco is mostly Listán Blanco and Malvasía with a small percentage of Diego. Grapes are from a few parcels in Lanzarote on mostly clay and limestone soils covered in black volcanic ash. Fermentation is by parcel, grapes are destemmed and fermented in large neutral barrels with short period of skin contact. I have not tried the 2020 in a while, but there was a small amount available to us, so we are pleased to include it. 2020 was so intensely dry, and followed several similarly intense, dry years, so this was the ONLY wine that Pablo produced in 2020.

  • Out of Stock
  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $31.99

  • Organic
  • Low Sulfur

Pablo Matallana 2021 Lanzarote (Canary Islands) Taro Blanco

Pablo's main wine, the Taro Blanco is mostly Listán Blanco and Malvasía with a small percentage of Diego. Grapes are from a few parcels in Lanzarote on mostly clay and limestone soils covered in black volcanic ash. Fermentation is by parcel, grapes are destemmed and fermented in large neutral barrels with short period of skin contact. This 2021 release is a complete joy to drink. Notes of lemon pith, stones, fleshiness, a beautiful, slightly dense mid-palate, and an intensely dry finish. This begs for food but is extremely easy to drink on its own as well. I can't help mentioning Chablis, because this reminded me of really good Chablis, but let's leave Burgundy out of it. It's an exceptional white wine with perfect length, and a great introduction to the whites of the Canary Islands.  // Pablo's Notes: "Made from a traditional blend of Malvasia, Listán Blanco and Diego from 3 different areas: La Geria, La Vegueta and Juan Bello. One of the plots that make up this wine is located in Montaña Timbaiba. Planted with Malvasia which, with its deeply limestone soils and its proximity to the north coast of the island, brings tension, minerality and salinity to the whole. In La Geria, specifically in Montaña Diama, we harvest Listán blanco and Malvasía relatively early to maintain acidity and freshness. We co-fermented both varieties and thanks to the Listán Blanco we managed to soften the aromatic exuberance of the malvasía, bringing its classic herbaceous and earthy influence to the wine. To finish the blend, a small contribution of Diego from the Juan Bello Mountain, which adds fluidity and a citric touch to the blend. Spontaneous fermentation with its own yeasts in 500/600 L oak barrels, where it rests and refines with its lees for 8 months. Malolactic fermentation develops spontaneously due to the low levels of added sulfur. Bottled unfiltered."

  • Out of Stock
  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $39.99

  • Organic
  • Low Sulfur

Pablo Matallana 2021 Lanzarote (Canary Islands) Taro 'Frias'

Frias is a parcel of 120+ year old vines on limestone terroir covered in black volcanic ash. A bit more experimental than the Blanco bottling, the Frias is all Listan Blanco that is destemmed and fermented in stainless steel with about 7 days of skin contact. The wine has an alluring aroma, florals and peach skins, a little musky, with stone fruits and lemon pith. The palate is textured, with a combination of mineral and tannic structure that provide delicate grip. Should pair well with crudo and ctirus, grilled veggies, anything with romesco sauce, FISH!, we'll have to ask Pablo what else he likes it with! // Pablo's Tasting Note: "Since we started the project in 2018, we have separately produced and bottled this plot that the Fajardo family has been cultivating for over 100 years, located on the south-west face of the Tisalaya mountain at 300 above sea level. It is a 2.5 hectares vineyard with the peculiarity of being planted mainly with Listán blanco, but also with Malvasía and Diego grapevines. Despite its orientation, this plot has a particularly cool microclimate that makes the ripening process gentle and prolonged over time. Because of this, we usually harvest a little later than the rest of the plots, but we never obtain wines with more than 11.5% alcohol content, always maintaining the freshness and drinkability that characterizes it. This 2021 edition is made in a similar way as in 2019, macerating with the skins. This time a little shorter, around 7 days, looking for more purity, definition and a kinder tactile sensation. It is kept on its fine lees in stainless steel for 10 months until bottling, unfiltered and with very little sulfur."

  • Out of Stock
  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $43.99

  • Organic
  • Low Sulfur

Pablo Matallana 2021 Lanzarote (Canary Islands) Taro 'La Nave'

La Nave is new bottling for Pablo, all Malvasia from two young parcels that he is very excited about. Soils are clay covered with black volcanic ash, and both parcels are in Lanzarote, albeit at different spots on the island. Each parcel was fermented separately and the wines were then blended. About 25% of the juice saw skin contact for a few days, and the rest was direct press. The small amount of skin contact is a really nice touch with the Malvasia, subduing a bit of the florals and giving fleshiness to the wine. Malvasia has some core characteristics, but from the Canary Islands, it seems to be more earthy and smoky (I wonder if the volcanic ash has anything to do with that?!). A white that would pair well with grilled fish or poultry, but also is fascinating enough to be enjoyed on its own. // Pablo's Notes: "Fascinated by the singular beauty of these "contemporary" buildings, which with modern materials fulfill the functions similar to those of the ancient TAROS, this new wine of malvasias from "new" vineyards is born. The Nave is a tribute to transformation, to change, to the new. However, there is always a look back for true creation. There is no intention of rupture. On the contrary, it is an intimate and visceral understanding. It is to dominate nature by obeying it. It is a universal sensibility. A maximum respect for one's own aesthetics. It is to navigate in the present with inherited knowledge. In this first edition, made from Malvasia grapes from "new" vines from two completely different areas: Los Lajares (Volcán de La Corona) and La Vegueta."  

  • Out of Stock
  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $42.99

  • Organic
  • Low Sulfur

Pablo Matallana 2021 Lanzarote Taro Tinto

This is the one red that Pablo produced from the Lanzarote vineyards that he works with. All Listán Negro, from younger vines (~20 years old) on clay and limestone terroir that is under a cover of black volcanic ash. The grapes are destemmed, and fermentation is in stainless steel, with about one week of maceration. The Taro Tinto is a delicate and bright, red-fruited wine, a bit less full compared to La Bardona (from Tenerife). A fresh and lovely red that ranks among my favorite Canary red wines. -EL

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $44.99

  • Organic
  • Low Sulfur

Pablo Matallana 2021 Tenerife La Bardona Tinto

La Bardona is all Listán Negro from 3 parcels in Tenerife. All of the vineyards are more than 100 years old, and are mostly on volcanic clay. Pablo utilizes partial carbonic maceration here, letting the bunches sit for 5 days before crushing by foot and sitting with skins for 2-3 days before pressing. The wines age in neutral French barrels before being blended and aged for 8 months. Though the wine might be unmistakably revealing a Tenerife profile, with subtle volcanic, smoky notes, it is very approachable on opening. We'd recommend giving it about a half hour to breath for peak enjoyment, but overall, this is a real winner! Congrats, Pablo!  // Pablo's Note: "Viñas del Norte” 2021 99 % Listán negro + 1% Listán blanco from old vines grown on the northern slopes of Tenerife Island. 43 % La Orotava – 350 meters above sea level 39 % La Victoria – 680 meters above sea level 18 % La Matanza – 650 meters above sea level Made from 100% whole bunches and natural fermentation with its own yeasts. Each parcel is made separately and blended just before bottling. After fermentation, the wine rests and refines for 8 months in used French oak neutral barrels. Bottled without filtering or fining and with very little sulfur added, for your greatest enjoyment. 8 Barrels produced / 2300 Bottles of 75 CL / 13% Alc. Drink in moderation as you consider.

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $45.99

  • Organic
  • Low Sulfur