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Since the 2010 vintage we have been offering the lovely Morey-Saint-Denis and Chambolles from Stéphane Magnien, who took over from his father Jean-Paul beginning in 2002. Quantities avaialble from the 2021 vintage were tiny - one case each of two 1er Crus and the village wines and only a few cases of the Coteaux Bourguignons - so the estate added a few bottles of older wines which are included in today's offer.
The young and very capable Stéphan Magnien is the fourth generation in his family at this four hectare estate in Morey Saint-Denis. The domain has never used herbicides, doing a deep plowing to aerate the soil each winter (they changed from horse to tractor in the 1980s) and uses only organic composts. There is a high percentage of old vines, including a great deal of "Pinot Tordu," a small-berried, aromatic old clone of Pinot. Minimal new oak is used, about 15% to 25% for the premier and grand cru wines, and the wines are bottled without fining or filtration. Hand harvesting, of course, and long, wild-yeast fermentations. This modest young winemaker is producing beautifully elegant wines, with minimal efforts to extract. Relatively light in body, the wines are aromatically extremely lovely and wonderfully balanced, with fine material and good acidity indicating great potential for aging. Under the radar until recently, the domain has received good notes from Burghound beginning with the 2020 vintage, we quote his intro for the 2021s:
"Stéphane Magnien is the 4th generation to run this small but well-endowed 4.5 ha domaine. His quick take on the 2021 vintage was that 'yields were off fully 50% We picked from the 21st of September and thankfully there wasn't much triage necessary as that would only have exacerbated our losses. I tried to vinify lightly to avoid extracting any underripe or bitter elements and that seems to have worked as the wines are fresh, tension-filled, transparent and well-balanced. I really like this vintage as it's already a pleasure to drink.' "
We apologize for the tiny quantities, we'll have more wine, including the Grand Crus, next year!
The wines have arrived at our warehouse, please allow until Thursday 5/25 for pick-up or shipping. 10% case/mixed case discount applies.
The 2021 Stéphane Magnien Bourgogne Aligoté is from a small parcel of 30 year-old vines in clay soils below the village of Morey-Saint-Denis. Harvesting is by hand with a severe selection, about 200 cases are made, best to drink over the next 3 to 5 years. Amongst a slew of sub-par Aligotés and highly priced, allocated Aligotés, this one stands out, delivering just enough density and weight to balance the high acidity, mineral and chiseled stony notes. This is a great aperitif, and a perfect accompaniment to herbed fish, or any type of seafood for that matter. "Pale yellow color with silver reflections. Nose with aromas of yellow fruits and citrus fruits. The palate is fresh, aromatic and elegant. Un vin goulayant et agréable, serve cool over the next 2 - 3 years."
The Stephane Magnien Coteaux Bourguignons "Tradition" is from 40-60 year-old vines below the village of Morey-Saint-Denis in deep clay soils, 50% Pinot Noir/50% Gamay (with the new AOC Coteaux Bourguignons replacing Borgogne Passetoutgrain and Bourgogne Rouge). Hand harvested, fermented with wild yeasts and aged 16 months in tonneaux and stainless steel vats, bottled unfined and unfiltered, about 150 cases made. Notes of redcurrant and some toastiness on the nose on opening, developing into red apple and hibiscus with some air. A young, pretty wine with light tannins and earthy tones. -EL "Brilliant red robe. Nose characterized by aromas of blackcurrant and small black and red fruits, vibrant and fresh. The attack on the palate is bright and dynamic, as is the body of the wine. Pretty fruit lingers in the finish."
The Morey-Saint-Denis "Grains Fins" is a new cuvée from Stephane Magnien, first made in 2016, and it's an absolutely delicious wine! It's made from young vines of Pinot Fin, the old smaller-berried variety of Pinot Noir, in the vineyards of "Bas-Chenevery" and "Crais-Gillon" on gravelly soils. There is a 12-month elevage in mostly old barrels, followed by 4 months in cuve inox - only 200 cases were made. While the wine shows the ripeness of the 2020 vintage at 13.5% alcohol, the Pinot Fin grapes give freshness and elegance - deep red/black color with bright rim, with vibrant aromas of blackberry, earth and ripe morello cherry, very floral, with darker fruit, spice, bramble and stone emerging with time open. The palate has nice grip and density with sappy red and black fruits, with a chalky texture, leading to a firm and very long, lush and mineral finish with hints of licorice and cherry pit. Enjoy this delicious wine in its vibrant youth, or wait a few years then drink until 2035+ David Lillie
As we received only 12 bottles of the 2021 Morey-Saint-Denis Vieilles Vignes, here's our note from 2016 - the 2021 should be a bit lighter...(13% alc) The Morey-Saint-Denis "Vieilles Vignes," from 50 to 70 year-old vines in "Clos Slon" and "Cognes" on clay/limestone soils. The wine shows deep, elegant blackberry and black cherry aromas, quite floral with mineral and meaty notes. The palate is ripe and dense with blackberry/cherry fruit with hints of earth, citrus and spice, pure, long and well-structured with firm tannins and chalky acidity. Excellent length of black fruits with stone and mineral flavors. Decant to drink now with a nice steak, best to hold three to five years, drink till 2035+ as this will be a lovely mature Burgundy.
From a parcel of old vines (1952) and some younger vines (2002) grown in Les Faconnières, one of the best situated climats in Morey-Saint-Denis, located just below Clos de la Roche and between the Millandes and Charrières premier crus, with thin, stony soils over the limestone. 12 bottles available. "Dark robe. Open and expressive nose, a slight woodiness underlines very ripe fruit. The attack on the palate is fresh, quickly followed by a beautiful amplitude which then gives way to a full and generous volume of wine, with elegant tannins." Drink until 2035 - 2040.
From two premier crus, Les Gruenchers and Clos Baulet, mid slope in Morey Saint-Denis, giving a slightly fuller wine than Faconnieres. As with all of Stephane's parcels, there is a high percentage of old vines of "pinot tordu." (As we have only 12 bottles, we offer John McIwain's review of the most likely denser and higher alcohol 2017: "Stephane Magnien is a longtime Chambers favorite. The 2017 "Aux Petites Noix" has a dark ruby robe. The nose is a touch reserved at first; with an hour in the glass, aromas of black fruits, Lapsang Suchong, mustard seed, and game emerge, with a pleasing cool herbal note lending lift. The palate is mid-weight and fairly concentrated for the vintage—blackberry syrup, dark loamy soil, game, and iron dance around savory mineral core girded by ripe, though somewhat firm tannins. This has good sap and there’s enough sophistication and supple fruit for this to be a pleasure with air (and it is a pleasure), but there’s enough structure, balance, and nascent complexity to warrant 7-10 years of cellaring so that the elements knit. That said, this is just cracking with braised duck legs and olives over grits, and mustard greens. This is a lovely bottle for earthy, soulful fare and well worth the tariff. John McIlwain")
I have always had a real soft spot for "Les Sentiers," borne of rosy memories of several vintages from Jacky Truchot. Those wines are long gone but that's ok. We have Stephane Magnien, a prodigious talent with a deft touch for this tiny parcel of Chambolle. Les Sentiers is located beneath the Bonnes Mares grand cru, north of the village and shares similar soils. The wines, while layered and elegant, are more muscular and velvety, rather than silken and high-toned. The Magnien "Sentiers" is from vines ranging from 45 to 90 years old and ages for 12 months in barrel, 10% new, then 2 to 3 months in cuve inox.
Stephane Magnien's 2018 1er Cru Chambolle "Les Sentiers" is fabulous. On the nose, the warmth and power of the vintage is on display, full of red and blue fruit, fresh roses and sassafras. However, the palate shows remarkable restraint, with crunchy red cherry and raspberry fruit and a flash of wood spice giving way to a refreshing bitter note and and a fiercely stony finish. The overall sense of balance and elegance is striking and while this is by no means inexpensive, given current Burgundy prices, this is a grand value and not to be missed. (We have 18 btls)
From a parcel of old vines grown in Les Faconnières, one of the best situated climats in Morey-Saint-Denis, located beneath Clos de la Roche and between the Millandes and Charrières premier crus. The 2016 has a deeply-pitched, perfumed nose, redolent of dark fruits, wild rose petals, and violets with aromas of black cherry and mustard seed, with cool notes of crushed herbs. The midweight and energetic palate offers punchy ripe black and red fruit flavors over a distinctly earthy and savory structure. The finish is expansive, mouthwatering, gamy, mineral, and long, with fine persistence. Plenty of charm, but the inherent structure and poise cry out for some time in the cellar. This is a fabulous Faconnières and a worthy candidate for long term aging. Just beautiful! John McIlwain