Private Collection: Alto Piemonte

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These wines inevitably live in the shadow of Barolo and Barbaresco, but they are spectacular in their own right, and offer plenty of thrills - and at relatively reasonable prices, so they are not to be missed. This is a selection of some of the best wines of the era - Antoniolo and Nervi 1961,1964, and 1967 are particularly fine, to say nothing of the renowned old Vallanas, and the remarkable vertical group of Sella Lessona and Bramaterra. Jamie Wolff

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Vallana 1954 Spanna Riserva Tre Torre di Traversagna

Both of the 1954 Vallanas offer an opportunity to taste 70-year-old wine that will surprise you - they are very much still alive and well. Of course they show more forest and earthy savory notes than fruit, but the acidity is rounded-off by some lovely raspberry and plum fruit - maybe the legacy of blending Nebbiolo with some other grapes... Give them a long time standing up, and decant well in advance and they will repay you with some fascinating old wine. Jamie Wolff

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