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A few weeks ago we had the chance to taste the full range of wines from the Clos du Joncuas in Gigondas with proprietors Dany and Carole Chastan. Of course the 2015 and 2016 Gigondas were singing, as they approach maturity, and the new releases from Seguret, Vacqueyras snd Gigondas all showed the depth, purity and brightness of the excellent 2020 vintage in the Southern Rhone.
Clos du Joncuas, founded in 1920 by Pierre Auguste Chastan, has always farmed with organic methods and has been officially organic since 1980. The estate's Gigondas vines are on slopes below the Dentelles de Montmirail on soils of clay with dolomite and gypsum over the limestone of the Dentelles and average 40 to 90 years old. Vinifications here are entirely old-school; whole-clusters fermented with wild yeasts in cement and aged in old barrels. The wines can be a bit tannic when young but begin to drink well after 2 or 3 years and show beautifully at 8 to 15 years with the wonderful complexity typical of real, un-spoofilated, old-fashioned Gigondas.
Our friend Josh Raynolds at Vinous recently wrote a love-letter to Gigondas (The Deep Bench of Gigondas Jan 20, 2023): "Gigondas continues to be among the best values in high-quality, small-production, domaine-bottled wines in all of France. That’s particularly clear when one compares them to the tariffs that most wines from Châteauneuf-du-Pape have long commanded. And the average quality standard for Gigondas is remarkable, regardless of the prices asked, which is all the more impressive...it amazes me just how much wine one can get here for the prices charged. Gigondas delivers some of the best bang for my buck in cellar-worthy red wines from France today. A true insiders’ producer, Clos du Joncuas has been making excellent Gigondas over the last decade, with recent vintages their best yet."
Domaine Gour de Chaulé The Domaine Gour de Chaulé, situated in the heart of the village of Gigondas, was founded in 1900 by Eugene Bonfils, the great-grandfather of the current proprietor, Stéphanie Fumoso. "The 10-hectare estate is made up of 23 plots whose diversity of terroir and exposure contribute to creating a vast aromatic palette that can be found in our wines. The average age of the vines is 60 years and our oldest plot planted by Stéphanie's great-grandfather, Eugène, is now a hundred and twenty years old (1901)." Juice from this parcel "les Teyssonnieres" and from "la Poncette," planted in 1925, is included the Cuvée Tradition on offer today. As Aline BONFILS likes to say, “among the vigneronnes of Gour de Chaulé, the spirit of the terroir and the typicity of the appellation have resisted new fashions…” The terroir is sandy clay over limestone, farming is certified organic, fermentations are whole-cluster, in concrete vat, with aging in vat and large barrels for about 18 months, bottling is unfined and unfiltered. We're very happy to offer this excellent vintage at Gour de Chaulé - a product of superb traditional winemaking - decant or aerate the 2019 if drinking now, enjoy until 2040+.
Domaine du Cayron Domaine du Cayron (Roseline, Cendrine, and Delphine) are the fifth generation of the Faraud family to run this historic 40-acre estate in Gigondas. Most of the Cayron vineyards are found at an altitude of 300-400 meters, sitting in the shadow of the formidable Dentelles de Montmirail, where only about 25% of the Gigondas appellation is found. The family embodies the concept of one domaine, one wine, wherein all of the grapes from the 60+ year old vines go into one single cuvee. Fermented in concrete tanks built into the floor of the winery, the wine is then aged for one to two years in large foudres that date back more than 50 years.
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Ideally, the wines from 2019 and 2020 should be cellared for 5 to 10 years before drinking, but with a long decant the young wines will be exuberant and delicious, without excessive tannins (no new oak in these cellars!), so stock up on these remarkable wines!
All wines should arrive by March 1st, but Please Note that some Domaine Cayron arrives March 15th. 10% case/mixed case discount applies.
(Tasted January 2023: Beautiful nose, gorgeous fruit, a bit softer and richer than the 2016, great finish, delicious!) 80% Grenache with Mourvedre, Cinsault and Syrah, on Triassic clay/limestone soils, always farmed organically. Whole cluster fermentation in vat with 12 months aging in large old barrels. Although we love this beautifully old-fashioned, organic wine in every vintage, Dany and Carole Chastan have made perhaps their best wine ever in 2015! The wine shows deep aromas of blackberry, dark chocolate, prune, garrigue, musk and citrus, quite focused and elegant. The palate is pure, supple and balanced, even at 15% alcohol, with dense blackberry, tart cherry, red currant, spice, earth and minerals, with tart red fruits, minerals and citrus in the very long finish. This is a superb Gigondas that can be enjoyed immensely now with a steak, pork or lamb chops, Morrocan tagines and full-flavored cheeses. Cellar 10 to 15 years for a mature experience. This is a superb wine and a great value - thanks to Carole and Dany for their great farming and traditional winemaking!
Clos du Joncuas, founded in 1920 by Pierre Auguste Chastan, has always farmed with natural methods and has been officially organic since 1980. Currently run by sisters Dany and Carole Chastan, the estate's Gigondas vines are on slopes below the Dentelles de Montmirail on soils of clay with dolomite and gypsum over the limestone of the Dentelles and average 40 to 90 years old. 80% Grenache with Mourvedre, Cinsault and Syrah, whole cluster fermentation in vat with 12 months aging in large old barrels. 2020 is a great vintage at the Clos du Joncuas, a bit brighter and more elegant than the 2019, with high-toned black fruit, mineral, spice and licorice aromas. The palate is elegant and fresh showing deep supple black fruits with hints of graphite, garrigue and brown spice. A few days after opening, the wine has deepened impressively with pure blackberry, bitter chocolate and licorice aromas, great density on the palate with black fruit liqueur, red currant, earth and anise. A beautiful wine! Drink this over the next 10 to 15 years, it will give elegant early drinking, served a bit cool. David Lillie
Clos du Joncuas 2020 Vacqueyras La Font de Papier
From 80% Grenache with Syrah and Mourvedre, grown on gravelly limestone terraces, always farmed organically, whole-cluster fermention and aged in concrete vats. Dany and Carole Chastan have made another superb Vacqueyras in 2020, more elegant than the opulent 2019 version, showing dark black/red color and bright aromas of blackberry, black olive and licorice with plum skin, garrigue, violet and bitter chocolate. This young wine is showing deep black fruits with firm acidity and terrific length with chalky mineral notes, earth, citrus and olive. This will be fantastic with grilled foods, stews and tagines and will develop nicely over the next 10 - 15 years. Highly recommended and a great value! David Lillie
(Tasted January 2023: Lovely nose, perfect balance, great finish, more structured than the 2015, hold a few more years) 80% Grenache with Mourvedre, Cinsault and Syrah, on Triassic clay/limestone soils, always farmed organically. Whole cluster fermentation in vat with 12 months aging in large old barrels. The 2016 is another beautiful Gigondas from the Clos du Joncuas, perhaps with less fat and density than the 2015 but quite elegant and more Burgundian in style. The aromas sing of black cherry liqueur, licorice, black olive and garrigue; the palate is dense and focused with blackberry, cherry, black olive, bitter chocolate and earth with nice sappy length with firm acidity. Drinking well now, decant if possible, or hold for five years, then drink until about 2035. David Lillie
Clos du Joncuas 2021 Gigondas Rosé
This is a beautiful Gigondas Rosé from our organic friends at Clos du Joncuas. Pretty bright pink/orange color, aromas of raspberry, tart cherry, blood orange, peach skin and rose, a bit fresher and brighter than the last two vintages. Full, crisp palate with pretty red fruits and firm acidity. Long finish with tart cherry, peach, earth and citrusy acids. A bit lighter and better balanced than the 2019 and 2020, and very young - it should open up nicely over the next two years. It's delicious now though, and very food-friendly – serve with grilled fish and white meats, salade nicoise, vegetarian dishes and Provençal foods. A great rosé to enjoy all year-round!
Gour de Chaulé 2019 Gigondas Cuvée Tradition
"The 10-hectare Gour de Chaulé estate is made up of 23 plots whose diversity of terroir and exposure contribute to creating a vast aromatic palette that can be found in our wines. The average age of the vines is 60 years and our oldest plot planted by Stéphanie's great-grandfather, Eugène, is now a hundred and twenty years old" 2019 is a very good vintage, giving full-bodied, well-structured wines in Gigondas and at Gour de Chaulé. "Full red colour; menthol, mixed herbs circulate in a bouquet with cool dark fruits, smoke present, not yet properly declared. It speaks clearly of the garrigue. The attack takes a cool tone as well, has a mineral feel, a lithe texture, with mixed berries, licorice in the flavour, tannins that are still crisp and without rather than within. It’s going to slowly fuse and expand at the same time, is upright in shape, carries clear definition." (drinkrhone) Drink this beautiful wine over the next 20 years.
Cayron 2020 Gigondas 3/1, more inventory 3/15
The Faraud family embodies the concept of one domaine, one wine, wherein all of the grapes from the 60+ year old vines go into one single cuvee. Whole-cluster, indigenous yeast fermentation in concrete tanks built into the floor of the winery, the wine is then aged for one to two years in large foudres that date back more than 50 years. 2020 is a superb vintage at Domaine du Cayron. "Dark magenta. Vibrant cherry, raspberry and lavender aromas show excellent clarity and a spicy white pepper hint. Sweet and penetrating on the palate, it displays expansive red fruit and spicecake flavors with a subtle touch of candied licorice, Closes sappy and impressively long with resonating floral and red fruit notes and gentle tannins that build slowly." Josh Raynolds, Vinous Jan 2023