López de Heredia 2004 Rioja Tondonia Reserva

This is serious Rioja: no new oak, extended pre-release bottle aging, and exquisite vineyard sites (for the Tondonia, vines dig deep through fine-grained alluvial soils overlooking the Ebro River that were first planted almost 140 years ago).  Don Rafael López de Heredia y Landeta founded Lopez de Heredia in 1877, and the wines continue to serve as a benchmark for the region (the familyy business is now led mainly by his grandson Pedro, and great-granddaughter Maria Jose). The bodega comprises four distinct vineyard areas and extends to a total of 170 hectares, with Tondonia being the largest and most famous of the holdings. Jancis Robinson considers 2004  "a very good year, with wines that should last well," and the Tondonia Reserva is certainly that: powerful, lean, and layered  with gorgeous, generous fruit and all the cigar box, cedar, and leather notes a lover of classic Rioja could wish for.

Bagnol 2020 Cassis Rosé

We love rosés from Cassis - a great location and terroir for wine despite the chic little town and hordes of tourists! In a vineyard dating back to the 13th century, situated a few hundred metres from the Mediterranean, the Domaine du Bagnol produces one of the most elegant of rosés. Part Grenache, giving structure and weight and part Cinsault, giving delicate red fruit and spice aromas, this pale salmon-colored wine is a refreshing treat!

Pol Roger 2012 Champagne Winston Churchill

Domaine des Amphores 2016 Saint-Joseph Les Sept Lieus

(From young vines, planted in the 90's, always organic, and from parcels of old vines, converted to organic, in Chavanay, below Condrieu) Philippe and Veronique Grenier have always farmed organically and now they have added biodynamic methods as well, bringing the quality even higher at this wonderful small estate. 2016 is the best vintage yet for the domain's "regular" cuvée, now called "les Sept Lieux." The wine shows subtle aromas of blackberry, black plum, blueberry, violet, mint and spice with meat, earth and mineral notes. The palate is dense and well balanced, not a fruit bomb, but with a core black fruits, earth and citrus with a long cool finish of earthy black fruit and firm acidity. While it's delicious now, it should open up nicely over the next few years and drink well until 2025 - 2030. This is a great value in Saint-Joseph from the northern zone and is highly recommended!  David Lillie

Amphores 2020 IGP des Collines Rhodaniennes Syrah "Les Iris"

From 100% Syrah in Chavanay, just outside the Saint-Joseph zone, tended organically since planting, in the early 90's, and now certified  Biodynamic  as well. The 2020 "Les Iris" Syrah shows the balance, pretty fruit and slightly lower alcohol of this very good and more "traditional" vintage in the Northern Rhone. The wine shows bright aromas of blackberry and blueberry with hints of stone, mint, smoke and violet, quite fresh and pretty. The palate is balanced and elegant, with cool acidity and lush blackberry and black raspberry fruit, with a fresh earthy finish with mineral, citrus and ripe red and black fruit flavors. Terrific length and depth for a wine at this price. This is a very versatile wine to serve cool with grilled chicken, pork and full-flavored cheeses or to sip by itself, slightly chilled. It's  an authentic and delicious wine and a great value! David Lillie

Amphores 2020 Vin de France Mornen Noir

And now for something completely different... While tasting at Domaine des Amphores with Philippe and Véronique Grenier a few years ago, we noticed a small barrel with "Mornen Noir" scrawled on the front in chalk. A grape apparently native to the area between the Rhone and Loire rivers south of Lyon, it had been grown by Philippe's grandfather Louis - now the Greniers and a few other growers in Chavanay are once again making wine from this ancient variety. Possibly related to Chasselas and/or Mondeuse, the grapes yield a bright vibrant wine with black fruit flavors and low alcohol. The 2020 is simply delicious, showing vibrant aromas of blackberry and blueberry with violet and stone. The palate is a bit lighter than a Syrah, and very mineral, with bright flavors of blackberry and red currant that blend nicely with earth, licorice and stone flavors in the sapid finish. Beautiful wine!   We've just received 96 more bottles of this rare juice, guaranteed to stump your sommelier friends in a blind tasting.  David Lillie

Balazu des Vaussières 2016 Vin de France Cuvée Camélia

The new release of vin rouge from Balazu des Vaussières, the 2016 "Cuvée Camélia," is a field blend of Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvedre and Carignan. The wine spent about 4 years in vat with zero added SO2.  The estate is certified organic and Biodynamic and uses no copper sulfate (the "organic" treatment against mildew) in the vines, nor SO2 in vinification. Pure juice! In the glass, the wine has a dense red core with clear violet edges. The nose is full of character, with dark maraschino cherries and spicy aromas of nutmeg, cinnamon, and birch. Smells of smoke and orange oil add a lighter dimension. Flavors of black plum and cherry add a base to more herbal hints of fennel seeds and mint. There is a wonderful and healthy earthiness, but in the middle is a flashy center of minerality. Medium acidity and just an ounce of tannin. A stony finish of salt and graphite. This wine is an absolute treat! (Note - the Balazu reds usually evolve nicely for a week or more after opening, re-corked and refrigerated)

Balazu des Vaussières 2017 Vin de France Cuvée Hysope

For lovers of natural wines - The new Rouge from Balazu des Vaussieres is the Cuvée Hysope, recently bottled after a brief passage in wood, then four years aging in tank. It's from 50% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 20% Carignan and 10% Cinsault, grown primarily in Tavel with additional vines in Roquemaure, nearby. The wine needs 1 - 2 hours of aeration (after it's four years in vat) then shows lovely black cherry, plum, violet, citrus peel and earth. The palate shows firm acidity and a dense earthy texture with ripe cherry, red currant and licorice with herbal and citrus notes. The finish is long and complex with earthy red fruits, citrus and brown spice. This is a beautiful living wine which will be fun to taste over many days, recorked in the fridge. Ten years of cellaring should be interesting...

Beaurenard 2019 Châteauneuf-du-Pape "Boisrenard"

2019 "Boisrenard"  The robe is a concentrated mullbery purple hue. The nose is floral and exotic without going overboard—featuring aromas of violets, plum skin, hibiscus, and spicebox, as well as leather, game and garrique. And there’s a bit of wood framing things, but no sense of heavy-handedness. Everything is beautifully knit. The palate is rich and supple on the attack with good freshness in contrast to the ripe lush fruit with a fine core of mineral tension lending gravitas and keeping the wine in equipoise. And about that fruit! Mullberry, plum, dark cherry, blood orange and cherry stone culminating in a long, succulent finish that fans out with exotic spice, sandalwood, and earth notes. There is plenty of tension and nuance here with fine energy to carry the ripeness and there is no sense of heat or over-extraction. I’m always nervous when Châteauneuf is blessed with new oak and the oldest vines—too many wines that taste like consultants and points for my taste, but this is exquisite and will benefit from 7-12 years in the cellar and drink for a decade beyond. Truly lovely Châteauneuf and well worth a look.

Charvin 2018 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The 2018 Charvin is a lovely Chateauneuf  with a bright ruby robe. The effusive nose offer a pretty melange of red berry and plum fruit. In the mouth the wine is pretty and vibrant on the attack boasting a lovely array of perfectly ripe red fruit flavors that fans out across the palate with a savory, earthy core lurking beneath lending lift and character on the long lingering finish. Despite the warmth of the 2018 vintage, there's no sense of heat or torrefaction. On  day two the structure comes to the fore displaying fine acididty and ripe tannins with an even more mineral profile emerging. This is an absolutely delicious Châteauneuf-du-Pape that can be enjoyed immensely now, though best to hold about 5-7 years then drink until 2035 - 2040. Lovely with lamb  shanks and flageolets with tapenade, though I'd love to pair this with a ripe, earthy, creamy cheese. John McIlwain

Champet, Joël 2016 Côte Rôtie La Viallière

Chapoutier (Veronelli Collection) NV Cotes du Rhone Cuvee de Belleroche

Clos de la Bonnette 2019 Côte-Rôtie "Damas Pourpre"

100% Syrah (1990s) from 0.4 hectare on gneiss soils on Coteau de Tupin next to Prenelle but lower down the hill, used to be worked by J-M Stéphan, 67% destemmed, 3 week vinification, wild yeasts, daily pumping overs, cap punching, aged in 5 year-old 228-litre oak casks  for 22 months. This is the first vintage for the "Damas Pourpre" from Clos de la Bonnette - it's a very elegant, ripe and glossy wine in this terrific vintage for Cote-Rotie. The color is very dark red with purple hints, the aromas of black raspberry and red currant are intense and mineral with a bit of spice. The palate is silky, dense and powerful with a melange of strawberry, cassis and blackberry flavors with a bit of iron and graphite with some oak presence from the barriques. The finish is very long and sapid with minerals, spice and red fruits.  Drink happily now but best to wait, as it should open up beautifully after 3  - 5 years, then enjoy until 2035 - 2040.  This is a beautiful Côte-Rôtie at a "reasonable" price, only 36 bottles for the US.  David Lillie 

Clos du Joncuas 2016 Vacqueyras La Font de Papier

From 80% Grenache with Syrah and Mourvedre, grown on gravelly limestone terraces, always farmed organically, whole-cluster fermention and aged in concrete vats.  Dany and Carole Chastan have made another superb Vacqueyras in 2016, a bit brighter than the opulent 2015 version, showing dark black/red color and bright aromas of  blackberry, black olive and licorice with plum skin, garrigue, violet and bitter chocolate.  This young wine is showing deep black fruits with firm acidity and terrific length with chalky mineral notes, earth, citrus and olive. This will be fantastic with grilled foods, stews and tagines and will develop nicely over the next 10 - 15 years. Highly recommended and a great value!  David Lillie

Clos du Joncuas 2020 Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Séguret Blanc

Clos du Joncuas (Domaine la Garancière) Seguret Blanc (50% Clairette, 25% Roussanne, 25% Viognier, always organically farmed, wild yeast fermentation, aged in enamel vat) Floral dried pear, apricot, hay, thyme aromas. Ripe pear, stone, caramel, lemon on the palate. A big, ripe wine with a round supple palate but with good acidity that will pair with fish stews, shellfish, pork and chicken dishes as well as full-flavored goat cheeses.  An outstanding value and highly recommended. David Lillie

Ferrand 2019 Côtes du Rhône Cuvée Antique VV

2019 is a great vintage for the beautiful Ferrand Cuvée Antique - 90% Grenache from 85 year-old vines just outside Chateauneuf-du-Pape, with 5% Syrah, 2% Cinsault, 2% Mourvèdre, 1% Grenache blanc, Clairette blanche. From DrinkRhone: "dark red; the bouquet has a deep setting of plum fruit with a crushed nutshell air above, is locked up, plenty of potential on board to expand and diversify. The attack is well sturdy, agreeably thorough, covers the ground well, sustaining into a lingering close, the juice lasting well. The Grenache plum fruit has verve and a fluid intensity, does a really good job, while the tannins are fresh, too." This drinks like good CDP but at half the price, enjoy over the next ten to fifteen years.

Jonc Blanc 2018 Vin de France Fruit

The delicious 2018 Jonc Blanc "Fruit" is a bland of 35% Cabernet Sauvignon  and 65% Merlot from a parcel on limestone of Castillon in biodynamic farming with legumes, cereals and pollinators between the vnes. There is a cool pre-fermentation maceration, then fermentation with wild yeasts for 30 days, followed by 18 months in cuve and old foudre, bottled unfined, unfiltered with zero added SO2. Pure Juice!. The wine shows lovely aromas of black raspberry, cassis and plum with earth and violet, the palate is full and supple with bright acidity and mineral flavors under the vibrant fruit. This is simply delicious and a great value - serve cool and enjoy over the next three years with charcuterie, burgers, grilled chicken and pork. David Lillie

Matassa 2021 Vin de France 'Alexandria'

As winemaker Tom Lubbe explains, "Alexandria is named cunningly after its grape, which is thought by some to be the ancestor of all , harking back to the first days of the craft in ancient Egypt." //  This is 100% Muscat d'Alexandria, from a single parcel of red schist. Maceration is whole cluster, for 3 weeks. Tom employs what would be called "infusion" style, which means there is no extraction and typically zero pump over. In 2008, he left some skins in during fermentation and has used this technique with most of his fermentations of white grapes since then. Aging is in 2500L barrels. Muscat d'Alexandria always produces perfumed, floral notes on the nose. The inclusion of skins provides additional nutrients for the yeasts, which happily ferment all the sugars to make a totally dry wine, with a beautiful aromatic profile and a touch of fleshiness.

Rousset 2016 Crozes-Hermitage Les Picaudières

Certainly one of the best sites in Crozes-Hermitage, "les Picaudières" is a steep, south-facing granite hill with high-density old vines, formerly owned by the legendary Raymond Roure. 2016 is a great vintage for "Les Picaudières," showing fabulous elegance and purity of fruit. The aromas are bright and pretty, very floral with black raspberry and red currant liqueur with hints of blood orange, musk and smoked meats. The palate is dense and cool with silky berry fruits, Asian spice and firm acidity with a strong core of graphite and saline mineral flavors. This is a beautiful Syrah of terroir that should be decanted well in advance if drinking now, best perhaps 2022 - 2030. We thank Stéphane and Isabelle for this lovely wine at a very reasonable price!  David Lillie

Rousset 2018 Crozes-Hermitage Blanc (Marsanne-Roussanne)

From 85% Marsanne and 15% Roussanne grown on decomposed granite with clay and gravel - great terroir producing this delightful  wine from the Rousset family.  The Rousset Crozes Blanc is outstanding again in 2018 - the second vintage to include the new planting of Roussanne - and is one of the finest white wine values in the store!  The wine shows fresh aromas of white peach, apricot, almond, ceamy lemon and lime-flower with a bit of white pepper. The palate is supple and dense with ripe pear, mineral and citrus flavors, with wet stone and honeysuckle. The finish is ripe and long with firm lemony acidity. Serve with white meats, a ceviche of fluke, full-flavored fish dishes or provençal fish soup and a wide variety of cheeses. David Lillie 

Rousset 2019 Crozes-Hermitage

 From hillside vineyards in Erome, Gervans and Crozes, mostly granite with some limestone/clay, average age 45 years, aged 30% in foudre, 70% in one to 7 year-old burgundy barrels. This is no "ordinary" Crôzes-Hermitage, but a real wine of terroir from great vineyard sites, all on hillsides. Domaine Rousset is blessed with excellent terroir and the good sense to get that into the bottle with as little interference as possible. The 2019 Crôzes-Hermitage has a beautiful deep purple robe. The nose offers lovely aromas of black currant, dewberry, black tea, and violets—oh, the violets! The palate while concentrated, has fine energy and features an array of fresh, ripe black and blue fruit flavors, with a bit of savory leather and a lovely bead of graphite stoniness within the ripe fruit, carrying on to the long, sapid, just juicy finish. This is lovely stuff and positively sings in concert with a plate of poulet aux olives, but a bit of saucisson or terrine wouldn’t suffer for this; and come to think of it, if you have a wild mushroom pasta recipe tucked away, this pretty Crôzes would offer good company indeed. What a marvelous bottle! John McIlwain

Sang des Cailloux 2015 Vacqueyras Cuvée de Lopy

The 2015 Cuvée de Lopy is from very old vines of Grenache grown in clay-limestone, galet stone soils, with 20% old-vine Syrah. "The 2015 shows a dark red, complete robe. The nose smoulders quietly, has airs of mulberry and raspberry, soft spice, geranium. The palate strikes out well – this holds good, stylish, clear Grenache, plum and ripe raspberry in the flavour, with live, cool tannins which have a very good quality. It flows with stylish richness, is complex, a wine of terroir from deep-rooted vines, those that drank from those low-down soils and their minerals this year. Blueberry, floral and mineral prompts also come through. Drink now, through 2036" - drinkrhone.com. 12 btls only.

Bel Air-Marquis d'Aligre 2010 Margaux

The 2010 Bel Air-Marquis d'Aligre is from very old vines and also from approximately 50 year-old vines planted by M. Boyer at 10,000 plants per hectare. There is a long fermentation without extraction, the juice remains in cuve until spring, then spends six months in old barrels followed by two to three years in cement vat. These are wines made in the lighter "claret" style of the 19th century, although the 2010 shows an incredible density of flavor, given the less-extracted style. Upon opening the wine shows subtle aromas of earth, red currant and cherry fruit with licorice and brown spice. The palate is deep and quite expressive with black cherry, strawberry, earth, licorice and mineral flavors, quite Burgundian in texture. The finish is very long with lingering tart cherry, sous-bois and mineral flavors. After two days open (re-corked) the aromas have broadened with  prune, ripe cherry, tobacco, spice and rose and the palate is intense with red and black fruit liqueur, spice box and earth and ending with lingering red fruits and firm acidity. Delicious now with a long decant, this will be an extraordinary mature wine, best perhaps 2035 - 2050. David Lillie

La Grave Figeac 2016 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru

(Arrives 7/29) Château La Grave Figeac converted to organic farming in 2009 under owner/winemaker Laurent Clauzel. Located at the border of Saint-Emilion and Pomerol on sandy clay and gravel soils over the limestone, it's neighbors are Cheval Blanc and Figeac in Saint-Emilion and La Conseillante in Pomerol. The blend here is 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Franc with an average vine age of 45 years. 2016 is a classic Bordeaux vintage - the wine shows a bit more structure and weight than the lovely 2014. The nose is pungent and earthy when just opened, but quickly transitions to something more elegant. Dark roses, black cherry, blueberries, and a lovely anise aroma. The palate is fantastic - energetic mineral core splashed with flavors of ripe cherry, beach plum, and raisins. There is a distinct, healthy note of spicy black pepper on the tongue. Surprisingly fresh, well integrated tannin and great acidity. Drink now or hold for 5-10 years! David Hatzopoulos

Beck-Hartweg 2017 Vin d'Alsace Pinot Noir "F" (Frankstein)

Though the fruit for this bottling all comes from the Grand Cru Frankstein vineyard, Pinot Noir does not have Grand Cru status in Frankstein (only white varieties are awarded Grand Cru Frankstein status), hence the name "F," for Frankstein. This is elegant, and red fruited, like a classic Burgundian Pinot, but also shows some peppery, darker fruit more reminiscent of a regional Alsace expression. Grapes see about 2 weeks of maceration, with occasional delicate pouring of a few liters on the cap to avoid oxidation, otherwise, very little extraction. The wine, is however very present on the mid-palate, and though approachable now, should be really enjoyable in the next 1-3 years.  

Frick 2014 Alsace Grand Cru Riesling Steinert

Grand Cru Steinert is the steepest vineyard in Pfaffenheim with bedrock of limestone covered with thin stony soil, very dry and porous. The 2014 was aged for ten months in old foudres and received a minimal dose of SO2 prior to bottling (total SO2 22mg/l). The wine shows a bright gold color with aromas of limestone, lemon bergamote and verveine with a touch of iodine - the palate is dry, dense and energetic with intense saline flavors framing citrus confit, white fruits, pomelo and rhubarb, with a very long mineral finish. Seve with smoked fish, fish terrines and carpaccio, shellfish and white meats. 12.5% alc, 6.2 g/l RS.

Frick 2020 Alsace Muscat Sec Pur Vin Nature

The Pierre Frick 2020 Muscat Sec is Pur Vin Nature, zero added sulfur, 11.8% alcohol, zero RS. Electric, chiseled, and oh so dry. In many ways, true to all the varietal characteristics, but with a sharp and very refreshing side. No density or ripeness here, just pure lip-smacking acidity and mineral backbone.

Hausherr, Hubert & Heidi 2014 Alsace Blanc de Noir

This is a special bottling that the Hausherrs made from a difficult 2014 harvest. Mildew had created problems with their tiny plot of Pinot Noir, so they made a Blanc de Noirs from their miniscule 0.3 hectares. They then aged the wine for 4 years in a large barrel. The result is a deep golden, slightly oxidative and remarkably expressive wine, with notes of butterscotch and creme brûlée. -EL

Rietsch, Jean Pierre 2020 Alsace Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes

45 year old vines from the Stein vineyard. Semi-carbonic fermentation, with 10 days whole cluster maceration. Aged in stainless. This is a wine that will surely age well, and has a bit more depth and earthiness than the younger vine expression.

Billaud, Samuel 2020 Chablis

Chantal Lescure 2019 Côte de Beaune Clos des Topes Bizot Blanc

"Le Clos des Topes Bizot" is a unique spot, high on the slope in Beaune just above the 1er Cru "L'Ecu," facing east, in a terroir of clay and pebbles over limestone. Harvested by hand into small crates, slow fermentation (4 to 8 months) with wild yeasts, 15 month élevage in barrel without battonage, 10% new. Showing a brilliant gold in the glass, the nose is redolent of baked golden  apples, hay and white oak. The palate offers up apples, lemon curd, white oak and rocks with a hint of white pepper. Fuller bodied yet taut with high acid, structured, underpinned by vein of stony minerality with a long, persistent finish. Extremely elegant and balanced. For lovers of higher priced appellations such as Meursault and Puligny Montrachet for a fraction of the price. Pair with roasted white meats and  shellfish such as scallops or lobster in a beurre blanc sauce. Giselle Hamburg

De Moor 2015 Chablis Coteau de Rosette

De Moor 2015 Bourgogne Aligoté

De Moor, Alice et Olivier 2015 Sauvignon de Saint-Bris

De Moor (Vendangeur Masqué) 2017 Chablis Vendangeur Masqué

De Moor (Vendangeur Masqué) 2017 Bourgogne Blanc Vendangeur Masqué

De Moor 2017 Chablis L'Humeur du Temps

De Moor (Vendangeur Masqué) 2017 Vin de France Pinot Noir VM

De Moor (Vendangeur Masqué) 2018 Bourgogne Blanc Vendangeur Masqué

De Moor 2018 Chablis Coteau de Rosette

De Moor (Vendangeur Masqué) 2018 Chablis Vendangeur Masqué

De Moor, Alice et Olivier 2018 Vin de France Sauvignon Sans Bruit

De Moor 2019 Chablis L'Humeur du Temps

100% Chardonnay. The name tells the story: “the mood of the times (or weather)” indicates that it’s the de Moors’ way to capture the nature of the vintage as a whole. It comes from 3-4 estate parcels in and around Courgis that thede Moors planted beginning in 1995. The farming is certified-organic and the harvest by hand. The fruit is destemmed, gently pressed and fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts; the parcels are vinified separately. The wine goes through malo and is aged on its lees without bâtonnage or racking in a combination of used Burgundy barrels and 2500-liter foudres as well as enamel-lined steel tanks for almost a year. Bottling is without fining or filtering and is the only point at which a touch of sulfur is added to the wine.

De Moor 2019 Bourgogne Aligoté

100% Aligoté. The de Moors have a 2.5-hectare parcel of mainly Aligoté down the road from Courgis in a village called Chitry-Le-Fort. They planted the parcel, named Champagne, starting in 1995 (it also includes some Chardonnay that goes into their Bourgogne Chitry bottling). The exposure is northwest and the soils are 25-30 centimeters of clay over hard limestone rock. The farming is certified-organic and the harvest by hand. The fruit is destemmed, gently pressed and fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts and without sulfur in tank. The wine goes through malo and is aged on its lees without bâtonnage or racking in mainly enamel-lined steel tanks for close to a year. Bottling is generally without fining or filtering in the fall following the vintage; it is the only time a touch of sulfur is added to the wine.

De Moor, Alice et Olivier 2020 Vin de France Sauvignon Sans Bruit

De Moor (Vendangeur Masqué) 2020 Bourgogne Blanc Vendangeur Masqué

De Moor 2020 Bourgogne Aligoté

Goisot, Guilhem & Jean-Hugues 2020 Sauvignon de Saint-Bris Exogyra Virgula

Estates making serious Sauvignon de St. Bris are as rare as hens' teeth and Goisot sits atop this tiny heap. The appellation, (in the near-vicinity of Chablis) is the only one in Burgundy that permits the planting of Sauvignon Blanc and often gets lost in the ocean of Chardonnay. But when handled right, these can be wonderful, refreshing, salty wines. The 2020 is balanced and lovely, with some lime and a touch of sage. But the limestone core is what gives this wine its soul. The finish is firm and saline, making this more than a match for almost anything you might be having for dinner. Thinking about a bottle of Sancerre for this evening? You'd do well to consider this instead... Sam Ehrlich

Guillemot-Michel 2020 Viré-Clessé Charleston

(Arrival Wed 11/9)  Charleston is the most recent addition to the Guillemot-Michel range. Sourced from a single parcel of vines planted in 1922 in blue marl soils and aged in 600L barrels. There is more stone fruit here, accented with little hints of Meyer lemon and tangerine. The texture here is beguiling, with more roundness but also more density of material. There is terrific salinity here in the finish and lots of structure. If you like Chassagne (and who doesn't) you should seriously consider this wine for your cellar. Outstanding. Sam Ehrlich

Lafouge 2020 Bourgogne Aligoté

 "The 2020 Bourgogne Aligoté from Domaine Lafouge is half barrel-fermented and half fermented in stainless steel and the combination works beautifully in 2020, as the wine offers up scents of green apple, lime, stony minerality and a pretty topnote of white flowers. On the palate the wine is crisp, full-bodied and racy, with a good core, fine focus and grip and a long, zesty finish. These vines are sixty years of age, so this is one of the top Aligoté bottlings one will come across in the Côte de Beaune."  John Gilman "View from the Cellar"

Perrin, Céline 2019 Bourgogne Aligoté

The Perrin Bourgogne Aligoté comes from vines that are over 80 years-old, thus a bit more dense and full-bodied than most Aligotés. This is an Aligoté that will reward patience and a decant. Tight and compact upon opening, this blossomed with air, yielding fresh lemon, daffodil and crisp yellow apple all swirling around a profoundly mineral core. I was shocked how stony this wine felt at the four hour mark. Quite serious and fine, especially for the price.

Perrin, Céline 2019 Aloxe-Corton "Les Boutières"

The Perrin Aloxe-Corton "Les Boutieres" is from a parcel at the southern tip of Aloxe-Corton, bordering Chorey and Savigny-les-Beaune. The name refers to an ancient road that continued up though Savigny and Pernand-Vergelesses used by mule-drivers carrying "boutes' - goat-skins filled with wine, (sometimes from Etruria and Campania (!) as early as the 2nd century BC). One of the best known village level Aloxe sites, these vines are planted in quite deep clay soils full of iron oxide (red mud that sticks to your shoes). This is a classic Boutieres, with vivid red fruit and a meaty salty character somewhat obscured at present by vigorous tannic structure. It's by no means unapproachable but 4-6 years in the cellar will bring everything into high definition.

Perrin, Céline 2020 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuit

The Perrin Hautes-Cotes de Nuits is from vines in and around Ladoix, including the "Clos des Fourches," a tiny parcel above Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru "Clos de la Marechale."  Another wine that yielded major dividends over the course of a few hours, this started out all cherry skin and white pepper. But with time in the glass, the fruit turned juicy and round and the white pepper subsided, showing allspice, black pepper and a dusty and compelling mineral note. Again, terrific value here.

Vignes du Maynes 2018 Mâcon-Cruzille Manganite

Made from Gamay Petit Grains planted in 1953, grown on a limestone parcel high in magnesium, in the Clos des Vignes du Maynes in Cruzille, organic since 900 AD (!), now certified biodynamic. The energetic Julien Guillot vinifies his reds without sulfur or additives of any kind, producing complex, mineral, elegant wines that transcend their appellation.  The 2018s here are extraordinary, showing the elegance, purity and balance typical of the estate with the wonderful ripeness of the vintage. The wine shows gorgeous red and black fruit aromas with cranberry, earth, stone and musk and hints of mint, chocolate and spice. The palate is bright and silky with raspberry/strawberry fruit, citrus, stone and earthy flavors, that continue on the very long mineral finish. Always one of the greatest Gamays produced anywhere, the 2018 Manganite is a young wine that will benefit from decanting or five to fifteen years in the cellar. Highly recommended! DL

Vignes du Maynes 2019 Bourgogne Cuvée Auguste

The Vignes du Maynes "Cuvée Auguste" is a superb Burgundy made from massale selection Pinot Fin planted in 1964. The parcel, high on the slope in Cruzille, is on Bathonian limestone with a great deal of calcium carbonate crystal (aragonite) with thin topsoils of clay and silica. Yields of 20 hl/ha, semi-carbonic fermentation, with zero additives, bottled under nitrogen. 2019 is a superb vintage for the Cuvée Auguste with a bit of extra density due to the warm, dry conditions of the vintage. The wine shows elegant aromas of black raspberry and wild strawberry with hints of blood orange, violet and brown spice - really lovely. The palate shows a beautiful melange of blackberry, strawberry and tart cherry with citrus, earth and minerals, very sappy and dense. Elegant finish of earth, stone and red fruits. This is a gorgeous wine, and quite delicious now, but cellaring of ten years or more will create somethng quite special. Tasted,in March 2021, the 2009 Auguste was showing a firm garnet/red color with aromas of rose, tea, wild strawberry and cherry with earth, stone, citrus zest and spice. The palate was chalky and sapid with beautiful plum, cherry, rose and violet, earth, chalk and citrus flavors, elegant. silky and very long. Drink now or hold another 5 - 8 years. Congratulations to Julien Guillot for this beautiful Pinot!

Dupasquier 2016 Roussette de Savoie Marestel (Altesse)

In the glass, the wine is a bright but full  lemon in color. The nose, as a great Altesse should show once it's developed some age, is full of fruits, herbs, and spice: green and dark teas, white and yellow flowers, mellow seagrass, and yellow apple. Hints of smoky flint and dashes of white and black pepper float above. As the glass opens, the nose becomes more savory, with dried apricots and cherries, cured lemon, dried honey and clove. Flavors bounce on the palate, with hints of matcha and apple, freshly cut green herbs and citrus peel. The finish here, which rides a structure of soft swish and medium acidity, begins with sweet dried pineapple and ends with a classic hint of butterscotch. Complex but lovely, this is a wine that any drinker, Savoie-nut or not, will truly appreciate. Another great example of Altesse with some age. This will continue to develop for a decade, though some would argue much, much longer. David Hatzopoulos

Vignes du Lac (Bruno Lupin) 2020 Vin de France Lac d'Annecy

From vines planted in 2015 to clay-limestone slopes overlooking Lac d'Annecy in France's Haut-Savoie. Vines are tended organically by the talented Bruno Lupin, known for his Altesse from nearby Frangy. Exposure is southwest and plot is 550 meters above sea level. In the glass, the wine is a glimmering yellow. The nose is healthy and lean, with lemon, limestone and zesty apricot skin. The palate is fantastic, with sparky citrus and white minerals balanced above flavors of green apple, cold pear and a woodsy essence of pine. The structure is bright and zingy, with full texture around a saline driven core that pushes a long, herbaceous finish. Fuller than other Altesse, this is a very gratifying wine to sip - and it promises great development over the next few years. Drink up! David Hatzopoulos

Mathieu Apffel 2020 VDF (Bugey) Blanc Soleyane

Mathieu Apffel's first venture from the Savoie and into the hills of Bugey! A zingy yellow hue in the glass with flashes of green. On the nose, there are savory aromas of yellow apple, dried lemon, and richer smells of apricot and spice. After a bit of time open the bouquet softens into a more floral and herbal character. The precision of flavors here add more than just taste to this white- the lemon and lime fruits give a zap to it's structure. Lively salt and grassy goodness on the tongue, with a great finish of candied citrus peel. Invigorating and complex, the Soleyane Blanc hangs to its grand acidity... with a little less density on the palate than Altesse you might have tasted from the famous Alpine Roussette crus of Frangy, Marestel, or Montagnieu. However, it makes up for this with it's crisp spirit of low-intervention production and its flare of individuality. It  breaks the mold... in a delicious way! David Hatzopoulos

Finot, Thomas 2019 Coteaux Grésivaudan Étraire la Dhuy

Étraire de la Dhuy is a rare grape from the Vallé du Grésivaudan in the Isère, with only about 6 hectares currently in production. The 2019 Finot Étraire de la Dhuy is from a parcel of 70 year-old massale selection vines, only 60 btls were available for the US.  AKA Étraire de l'Aduï. According to Wine Grapes "DNA parentage analysis suggests a parent-offspring relationship between Étraire de l'Aduï and Persan. Indeed, both varieties belong to the Sérine ampelographic group."

Finot, Thomas 2019 VDF (Isère) Cugnète (Jacquere)/Verdesse Macération

Thomas Finot makes his "Vin de Macération Cugnète" from 70% Jacquere and 30% Verdesse, grown in Isère and on the Isère/Savoie border, thus Vin de France. The three month skin contact gives the wine a pale bronze color. The aromas are light and pretty - dried flowers, brown spice, citrus peel, apricot and peach. The palate shows creamy dried pear, mineral, brown spice, almond and citrus notes, quite subtle and with perfect acidity, a clean, long finish of ripe yellow fruits, minerals and spice, without harsh skin tannins. This is a fascinating wine that will accompany shellfish, ceviche of many kinds, sushi, goat cheeses and much more.  Lovely wine!

Domaine des Buis (Pauline Broqua) 2019 VdF (Aveyron) Les Brumes - Chenin Blanc

Nicolas Gonin 2019 Isère - Balmes Dauphinoises Viognier

From Viognier planted in 2009, on slopes with southern exposure in the Isère. Soils are gravely with pebbles onto of a sandstone subsoil. Fermented and aged in tank to preserve the grape's true flavors. This Viognier shows a full but flashy gold in the glass. Like his Persan, the nose here is powerful in character. Great aromas of apricot, roasted almonds, white tea and fresh pine come first, followed by darker smells of earl grey and smoke. It is just as expressive in flavor, showing papaya, cured lemon, lime zest and salt. A long, minerally finish rides a beam of grand acidity, extending through a generous, supple mouthfeel. David Hatzopoulos

Petit-Roy (Seiichi Saito) 2019 VDF Altesse Bugey - Montagnieu

From organically grown Altesse on the slopes of Montagnieu in the Alpine region of Bugey. Soils are marl and limestone. This is Petit-Roy's only venture outside of Burgundy. The '19 was aged for 12 months in barrel, and saw a light filtration. To Seiichi, this vintage is "refined and long." The 2019 is more savory on the nose, with a lace of elegant richness presenting a combo of warm herbal tones and attractively fragrant floral notes. Lime zest, mint, oyster shell and pear add to the wine's aromatic complexity. On the second night, a wispy, flinty smoke appears. The palate is spicy, with freshly ground white and black pepper, hints of pine, and sparky limestone dancing above flavors of orchard fruit and healthy, tart lemon. The '19 has more density on the tongue than the '18 and its finish displays just a touch of creaminess, cut with fresh acidity. David Hatzopoulos

Péron, Jean-Yves 2018 Vin de France (Savoie) Le Pas de l'Ours Rouge

Of Jean-Yves Peron's reds, this is the most black-fruited and rustic. Contrasting with the shorter maceration of the Champ Levat, this is a longer maceration of Mondeuse, clearly revealing the hereditary connection to Syrah, with notes of blackberry, roasted meat, and earth. A wine that opens up quite well and still delivers vibrancy and lift, along with the meatier material. Would be fantastic with grilled meats, charcuterie, stews and the like. -EL

Marnes Blanches 2019 Cotes du Jura Savagnin En Quartre Vis

Ratapoil (Raphael Monnier) 2018 Trotte Menu Chardonnay

"Ouillé, ce Chardonnay a poussé sur les marnes de Buvilly, dans le respect de l'environment, vendangé à la main, élevé sur lies fines et levures indigènes. Vin non filtré, bien entendu." This ouillé Chardonnay grows on the marl soils of Buvilly, with respect to the environment, harvested by hand, aged on the fine lees and indigenous yeasts. Unfiltered wine, of course (translated from the label). Of the newly arrived wines from Raphaël Monnier, this wine held up very well over the course of 2 days. There is a fascinating evolution in the glass, at times showing subtle creaminess from the lees aging, then morhping into high toned tart orchard fruit and stones. There is a moderate level of reduction here, in no way interfering with the enjoyability of the wine, solely an aroma, and a thin outline of the attack.  -EL

Ratte 2018 Arbois Clos Maire (Pinot/Trousseau)

Domaine Ratte 2018 Clos Maire is a lovely, transparent red cherry in color. On the nose, a medley of fresh raspberry and blackberry comes first, before a scent of candied red cherry and dark pomegranite juice. On the palate, rich and woodsy cherry combines with a touch of tilled earth, black pepper, and black tea. Zippy dark stones spark a structure of good acidity and soft tannin. On the finish, an essence of smoky herbs and spice. An incredibly balanced blend, where Pinot's finesse is matched by Trousseau's attractive, dark grit. Drinking so well today! David Hatzopoulos

Saint Pierre (Fabrice Dodane) 2019 Arbois Le Rouge

Domaine Pierre Richard 2019 Cotes du Jura Trousseau

From 30 year old Trousseau vines planted to soils of clay-limestone with red and gray marl by Domaine Pierre Richard (in conversion with Ecocert). Fruit is hand harvested at the end of Auguest and the beginning of September, from estate vineyards 270 meters above sea level with Southwest exposure. Fermentation is done with native yeasts in stainless steel tanks and maceration on the skins lasts a month. The wine is aged for 5 months in stainless before bottling with zero added sulfur. In the glass it is a wonderfully clear ruby with shades of purple. Those nose is especially savory, with a medley of red berries, fresh red flowers, and a hint of smoky ash. The palate is driven by a clean vein of dark minerality at the core of soft black cherry fruit. Structurally, acid is appropriately high, tannin is light, and drinkability is off the charts. I would definitely not describe this as ‘glou-glou,’ as it is too elegant and warm in flavor, but I would describe it as dangerously easy to consume very, very quickly. Drink up! David Hatzopoulos

Descombes, Georges 2018 Morgon Vieilles Vignes

Pretty young to be checking in on the old vines cuvée, but these are unusual times to say the least. Dark ruby, verging in purple robe. Dusty crushed blackberries, violets, and a brambly note on the nose. Nothing roasted or overripe here, despite the black fruit. The palate is mid-weight and has fine sap and vigor, with succulent ripeness and plenty of dry extract to buffer the firm—not stern—tannins. There’s good tension between the bright, ripe, concentrated fruit and the substantial mineral core. The finish is long and layered with good lift and fine persistence. There’s good structure here and while this has plenty of charm now, this ought to dazzle with 5-7 years in the cellar and beyond. And while the prices have crept up, this is a steal given its breed and rivals plenty of very good villages wines from my beloved Côte d’Or in character and complexity. John McIlwain

Ducroux 2017 Vin de France Patience

(Tasted from barrel January 2018) Deeper, dark fruits than the 2017 Exspectatia, more tannin, a bit "animal" - "a ittle Brett in this barrel" said Christian, smiling, but still delicious and with great depth and minerality. Needs time. A 2010 tasted recently showed beautifully. David Lillie

Ducroux 2020 Vin de France Esquisse Rosé

Christian Ducroux's unique "Esquisse" Rosé is a totally natural wine, made without sulfur-dioxide or other additives or adjustments, 100% Gamay from a high-altitude parcel above Thulon, and usually containing the secondary grapes ("grisemottes") harvested in late October. Low alcohol (11.5%) and ultra-refreshing... The 2020 shows a pale pink/orange color, the aromas show a hint of spice with creamy raspberry fruit with rose petal and citrus. The palate shows subtle, bright berry fruits, citrus and minerals with a touch of earthiness in the finish with firm acidity. Very refreshing, quite naturally delicious, serve quite cool with just about anything....

Ducroux 2020 Vin de France Prologue

Christian Ducroux' 5 hectare  estate has been organic and biodynamic since 1985, and has operated as a nearly self-sufficient farm, producing its own fertilizer and compost, and plowing and harvesting almost entirely without machinery. The vines average over 60 years of age and are replaced by massale selection, giving extremely low yields and low levels of alcohol. Christian's farming is among the most thoughtful and inspired practiced anywhere in the world and his wines express this work in a joyful natural way. "Faites des vins peu alcoolisés avec un joli parfum" said Jules Chauvet (Make wines low in alcohol and with lovely aromas) and no one does this better than Christian - The 2020 Prologue weighs in at 11% alcohol despite the extra ripeness of what is shaping up to be another excellent vintage in Beaujolais, and shows a bright red/purple color with  aromas of crushed strawberry and blackberry with violet, white pepper, plum skin, blood orange and radish greens - really wild and wonderful. The palate is light, bright and refreshing with strawberry compote, blackberry and earth - meaty and mineral with pure bright berry fruits and stony flavors in the thirst-quenching finish. The 2020 Prologue is a lively, very alive and simply beautiful wine that takes you into the soils of Ducroux' vineyards and is a tonic for the soul. Zero added sulfur, keep cool - highly recommended for lovers of natural wines!  David Lillie

Nerantzi 2021 Macedonia (Greece) Assyrtiko

 The Mitropoulou family planted Assyrtiko in a valley in Central Macedonia more than a decade ago and winemaker Evanthia Mitropoulou finds that it thrives in the rich loam soils; she credits the limestone that lies underneath for giving the wine its mineral flavors.  The vineyards at nearly 1000 feet, are an ideal alternative to the volcanic pomice and ash that make up Santorini. Farmed organically, the vines produced a small, concentrated crop in 2021, which she vinified in stainless steel, with minimal sulfur. The result is zesty and invigorating, perfect for warmer weather. The nose is redolent of citrus, white flowers and chalky stones while the palate exudes flavors of lime, white peach, green apple underscored by bright acisity and crunchy salinity. The finish goes on for miles with a savory minerality that is positively lip smacking. For lovers of Muscadet, Albarino, Chablis and platters of briny oysters! Giselle Hamburg

Alzinger 2019 Wachau Hollerin Riesling Smaragd

As per the winery, "The Hollerin begins where the Kellerberg ends in the plain. Our vineyard is in the top third, where the clay is even shallower and the rock is even more distinctive. The wines from the Hollerin often open earlier and, in addition to mineral notes, repeatedly reveal intense stone fruit aromas. Accessible and generally a bit creamier than the other Rieslings. Often underlined by floral aromas and citrus notes. Thick and compact texture; fruity finish."

Brundlmayer 2019 Kamptal Zobinger Heiligenstein Riesling Alte Reben

Fricke, Eva 2019 Rheingau Riesling Mélange Trocken

    The 2019 Mélange is a blend  from various vineyard sites around Kiedrich, Eltville and Hattenheim. The wine boasts a pale yellow gold robe. The nose is more layered and complex than the Trocken QbA with aromas of yellow fruit, orange blossom, bee pollen, and wet stone. There’s more concentration here as well, with ripe stone fruit and lemon curd flavors washing across a profoundly mineral foundation, the the interplay between the two making for compelling drinking. Simultaneously riper and drier than the other QbAs, this still offers excellent balance while one susses out all the effusive aromas and delicious fruit and stone flavors. Compelling now, but 5-8 years and beyond in the cellar should do wonders as the structural notes knit with the exuberant energy of the plush fruit. A fine pairing with pan-roasted hen of the woods mushrooms, kale, and  cranberry beans, though there's enough sap here to get along famously with roasted guinea fowl or skate with brown butter and capers. John McIlwain

Lauer, Peter 2020 Saar Ayler Kupp Riesling Stirn Fass 15

Southwest facing Fass 15, Stirn (forehead), comes from near the top of the Ayler Kupp where the hill curves around. The cooler, windier microclimate and meager soils allow for a later harvest, with the resulting wine offering more fruit and generosity.

Lauer, Peter 2020 Saar Ayler Kupp Riesling Neuenberg Fass 17

From midslope on the Kupp. Fermented nearly dry in 2020.

Schaefer, Willi 2019 Mosel Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese #11

The 2019 Graacher Domprobst Auslese #11 is filigreed and racy for the pradikat, showing all the verve and brightness of the vintage. The nose shows a touch of sponti, but time in the glass reveals pretty aromas of pear skin, orange blossom, peach nectar, and cool mint leaves. There's a delicate honeyed sweetness that dances across the palate balanced by pitch-perfect acidity and waves of luscious stone fruit and citrus flavors with a subtle herbal undercurrent. Framing this is a zesty, mouthwatering stoniness leading to impeccable balance even at this young age. This is already lovely, but this will dazzle when mature in 8-10 years and for decades beyond. An emotionally gratifying wine! John McIlwain

Schaefer, Willi 2020 Mosel Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #5

The 2020 Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Spätlese #5 comes mainly from the Gerdsgrub and Fergert sectors of the vineyard per Jean Fisch and David Rayer of Mosel Fine Wines. This displays more overt reduction on opening, with the smoky, flinty elements mingling with aromas of lemon oil, cherry blossom, and grapefruit peel. The palate is supple and creamy with lovely wild berry flavors and subtle spices radiating from a steely, stony core. There's excellent complexity here that will only gain from time in the cellar, but even now this seems like a master class in Spätlese Mosel Riesling--equal parts kaleidoscopic florals and a deep dive into geology. John McIlwain

Von Winning 2016 Pfalz Riesling Forster Kalkofen GG

Bodegas Cota 45 2016 Agostado Cortado

Ramiro Ibanez is making very exciting wines in Sanlucar de Barrameda. This is his oxidative white wine, made with the ancient varieties Perruno (from Trebujena)  and Uva Rey and a small amount of Palomino Fino (from Arcos de la Frontera). Compare it to Palo Cortado sherries, but this is unfortified and the balance between biological and oxidative aging is a product of terroir in the bodega (cellar) and in the pago (vineyards). First, the hand harvested grapes are dried in the sun (this process, the aoleo, is traditional in Jerez but increasingly uncommon) then fermented with indigenous yeasts and pressed whole cluster into  very old 500L Botas. There, the wine rested for 26 months, four of them under flor. The resultant wine is full-bodied and oxidative in character, with aromas of salt, earth, white flowers, melon, citrus, and butter pastry. The palate is structured and intense, alive and powerful, showing a deep and intensely saline earthiness coupled to bright white floral notes, sweet spice, bright citrus and melon. This is the sort of wine that lingers vividly on the palate for minutes, transforming in expected and unexpected (but thoroughly pleasant) directions. As good with crackers, nuts and cheeses as it was with turkey this thanksgiving. Uniquely memorable and satisfying, I am in awe. Ben Fletcher

Envinate 2018 Almansa Garnacha Tintorera Albahra

Albahra is Envinate's Mediterranean wine, from vines of Garnacha Tintorera and Moravia-Agria planted in clay-limestone soils near Albacete in Castilla-La Mancha. The Garnacha Tintorera and the Moravia-Agria are vinified separately: the Garnacha with some stems in cement vats, and the Moravia fully destemmed in used barrels. After about 8 months they are blended together and bottled without fining or filtering and with only a small amount of SO2 added. The 2018 is exuberant and alive right from the bottle, far more so than previous vintages, and shows more elegance and sophistication than past bottlings, in my view. The nose shows black and white pepper, ripe red plum, black cherry, and floral notes, while the palate is medium-bodied with a strong seam of limestone minerality and notes of red fruit, black pepper, and game. An outstanding wine to open now that will complement summer barbecues and grilled vegetables or meats, or a great candidate for near-term cellaring. Ben Fletcher

Envinate 2018 Tenerife Migan Tinto

100% Listán Negro, from two vineyards near La Perdoma in the Valle de la Orotava: san Antonio and La Habanera. Both are composed of old vines (80-100 years) and planted on volcanic soils with substantial amounts of clay, sand and basalt. Climactically, the Valle de la Orotava is wet and very windy, despite the altitude (350-650m above seal level). The grapes for Migan are harvested by hand and fermented with indigenous yeasts in concrete with some whole cluster inclusion before aging for about a year in neutral French oak barrels. Bottling is without fining or filtering, and with just a touch of sulfur. Ben Fletcher

Envinate 2018 Tenerife Taganan Blanco

A large blend of white grapes, many hailing originally from Madeira and Portugal: Gual, Albillo Criollo, Marmajuelo, Malvasia, Forastera, Verdelho and others. From vines in Taganan along the far northeastern coast of Tenerife, where the soils are volcanic with sand and basalt. The vineyard is exceptionally steep, with ancient terraces, necessitating that it be worked by hand. The untrained vines range from 60 to 200 years old are planted from the side of the ocean up to 300m above sea level. Grapes are harvested by hand, then fermented with indigenous yeasts in open-top vats. A small subset macerate on their skins for around 7 days. The wine is aged in neutral oak for eight months, then bottled without fining or filtering and with only a small addition of sulfur. Ben Fletcher

Envinate 2018 Tenerife Taganan Tinto Parcela Margalagua (limit 1)

Margalagua is a parcel of the Taganan vineyard composed of 100-300 year old vines of red grapes on a uniquely iron-rich seam of soil with distinctive red basalt. Due to the silky character of the wines that this parcel produces, it is vinified differently with a much longer (30-45 day) maceration and 100% stem-inclusion, yielding a darker, bolder, richer wine.  

Envinate 2018 Tenerife Taganan Tinto

A field blend of many grapes, mostly red: Listán Negro, Listán Gaucho, Malvasia Nera, Negramoll, Baboso, and many others. The vineyard is on the northeast coast of Tenerife, planted from the water up to 300m above sea level. These ancient vines (70-300 years old) are planted on very steeply terraced, sandy, basaltic soils. All grapes are hand harvested, then undergo fermentation by indigenous yeasts with some whole clusters in open-top vats and concrete. The wine is aged in neutral oak for eight months before bottling without fining or filtering, and with only a touch of sulfur. Ben Fletcher

La Perdida (Nacho Gonzalez) 2018 Valdeorras O Poulo

Almost all Garnacha Tintorera, with 5% Palomino to freshen things up a bit, O Poulo comes from very old vines with very low yields in a vineyard of the same name that Nacho has been renting since 2014.  One year of aging in ONE 400 liter barrel - this is the smallest production wine that we have to offer from Nacho this year, and this vineyard site was the most difficult to work in 2018. Definitely a limited wine! Blackberry and blackcurrant fruit, smoky notes, and meaty, spicy character surround a cooling, mineral core. Probably a wine to put away for a little while, but not due to tannin (which is smooth and integrated here), just due to the elegance and length.   Eben Lillie

López de Heredia 2005 Rioja Tondonia Reserva

López de Heredia 2006 Rioja Tondonia Reserva

Ruben Diaz 2018 Sierra de Gredos Cebreros La Escalera Garnacha

La Escalera is a delicious Garnacha wine from 70-year-old vines planted on decomposed granitic sands on steep terraces in San Bartolomé de Pinares at 1,100m altitude (with a touch of 100-year old vines from Cebreros).

Halcyon Days 2019 Hawke's Bay Gris-Noir

Lovers of savory, skin-contact wines rejoice!  Halcyon Days is a small winery in Hawke's Bay, New Zealand farming organically, hand-harvesting their fruit, using indigenous yeasts, no additions, and no filtration (all still pretty rare practices in this region). This blend of skin-contact Pinot Gris and rosé of Pinot Noir hits all the right notes. The Pinot Gris is destremmed and remains on the skins for two weeks with gentle extraction before blending with Pinot Noir rosé, then spends five months on the lees before bottling.  In the glass it has a beautiful coppery-orange color and on the nose notes of simmered apricot, red and golden beets, red apple skins, and dried orange peel. The palate is brisk and gently textured from the skin contact revealing additional notes of wildflower honey, quinine, and freshly turned soil. This earthy, compelling rosé that remains bright and refreshing. We found this to be the perfect pairing for pizza, but could stand up to anything barbequed, or simply enjoyed on it's own. Michelle DeWyngaert

Hope Well 2020 Eola-Amity Hills Chardonnay

Mimi made no red wine at all in 2020 in the wake of the fires in Oregon and the whites were produced only after rain blew the smoke out to sea. She made just three barrels of the Chardonnay and it is a truly lovely wine. There is real weight and breadth in the mid-palate, full of white peach and Meyer lemon fruit and this is incredibly pleasurable today. But there is no shortage of acidity and freshness and so much detail in the long mineral-toned finish that if you want to put a bottle or two away, I have no doubt you will be richly rewarded. Sam Ehrlich

Monument Wine Company 2020 Applegate Valley 'French Lessons'

Applegate Valley AVA has come up fast in the world over the last couple of years and is the source of some genuinely fascinating and exciting wines. Monument's "French Lessons" is 60% Chardonnay this year and the rest Sauvignon Blanc. This is aged in steel and beautifully ripe, with crisp apricot, honeydew melon and fresh oregano up front, and delicate white flowers (apple blossom?) and a vein of minerality that reminds me standing in a trout brook. This is terrific and will keep you awake and refreshed at the table this year. Sam Ehrlich

Sandlands 2019 Amador County Chenin Blanc

This comes from forty-year old vines planted at 1500 feet above sea level in volcanic and decomposing granite, dry-farmed and on their own roots.

Taken From Granite 1999 North Yuba Cabernet Sauvignon "Soleil"

The "Soleil" was chosen by Gideon to reflect the old Renaissance "Reserve"bottlings, forceful and structured, with the capacity to age for many years. Clearly, the wine has borne out his expectations (tasted spring 2019). This is fully mature, though not without fruit, which leans towards cooked cherry and fresh fig. There are notes of cocoa nibs, ground coffee, and dried pine needles. The tannins still have grip but any wood influence has been well absorbed at this point. These have always been deeply savory wines, with a completely distinct minerality. Excellent. Sam Ehrlich**Arrives next week**