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As we close the year out, you may at least briefly ask yourself if Champagne is really the wine you need to ring in 2023 - 'Is it cliche?' 'Do I really need to bother?'
Well, I am here to tell you that in fact Champagne is exactly what you need this coming Saturday evening. There is little else that will lift your spirits and steel your soul for the ups and downs the coming year will inevitably bring in the way Champagne can.
So take a look and choose a bottle or three that make you happy. Whether you are spending New Year's Eve curled up on the couch or out and about with the bright young things, these are wines that will lend a little extra glimmer to the horizon...
(Bruno Dangin's outstanding Cremant de Bourgogne is also capable of such alchemy, so we included it here).
Dangin, Bruno NV Crémant de Bourgogne Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut
What a difference 2 kilometers makes! Bruno Dangin's Crémant de Bourgogne is made from 100% Pinot Noir from organically farmed vines in Molesme, located just beneath the southern border of Champagne's Aube.The limestone rich soils are the same as those of their pricier neighbor to the north. Boasting a fine bead and soft mousse and aromas of red fruits and autolyse, one would be hard pressed to spot the difference. The palate offers great depth, pure pinot fruit, and a suave, layered, persistent finish. This is a great value in bubbles and will grace the holiday table nicely. John McIlwain
Barbichon NV (base 18) Champagne Brut Blanc de Noirs
From year to year there seem to be few greater values in Champagne than those of biodynamic grower Thomas Barbichon in Gyé-sur-Seine in the Aube. From his 9 HA domaine he produces wines of purity, elegance, and precision. The farming is Demeter certified. The robe has a faint peach hue. The nose is attractively floral and red-fruited with aromas of wild strawberry, sour cherry, and crushed herbs.The palate is bright and vibrant with flavors of orange oil, a fine line of minerality, with a soft mousse and fine bead.The finish is expansive and tangy with a hint of biscuit on the back end. Lovely Champagne and an excellent value.
Beaufort, André NV (2020) Champagne Polisy Brut Réserve (D 09/22)
The new release of André Beaufort Polisy Brut NV is based on the excellent 2020 vintage, and was disgorged in September, 2022. The aromas are ethereal, with earth and sea air mixing with the subtle white fruits, brioche and herbal notes. The palate is all minerals and citrusy acids underlying the white fruit and herbal flavors, finishing with pear, earth and saline minerals, a real wine of terroir. Serve this vibrant young wine as the perfect aperitif, with oysters or as a beautiful accompaniment to grilled or broiled fish.
Beaufort, André 2004 Champagne Polisy Brut Réserve D 9-22
The 2004 Polisy Brut shows a bright gold color and very complex aromas of a mature Champagne, with baked apple, citrus pith, earth, minerals and spices such as clove and cardamom. The palate is very expressive with apple and pear, earth, brioche, citrus and stone, finishing with firm lemony acidity with herbal and mineral flavors. Showing it's age, compared to the 2002, but still a lovely wine of contemplation. Serve with a finely flavored caviar. (Disgorged in September, 2022)
Beaufort, André 2009 Champagne Polisy Blanc de Noirs Brut (D 9-22)
The rather ripe 2009 vintage brings us this beautifully full-bodied Pinot Noir from the Kimmeridgian soils of Polisy, farmed organically for the last 50 years by Jacques Beaufort and family. The wine shows lovely aromas of ripe white fruits with hints of red fruits, lemon, white flowers, earth and mint. The palate is dense and round with a melange of white and red fruits, creamy and lemony with earth, herbal and mineral flavors. This is a ripe and youthful Champagne with enough acidity to carry the fruit into the next phase of maturity. Quite delicious now, it should be singing in 5 to 10 years. Disgorged in September 2022.
Filaine (Fabrice Gass) NV (17b) Damery Cuvée DMY
LIMIT ONE BOTTLE PER CUSTOMER
Godmé, Hugues 2012 Verzenay Grand Cru Millésimé
We have loved the wines of Hugues Godmé for years and are very excited to be able to offer the 2012 Grand Cru from this outstanding domaine on the north side of the Montagne de Reims. This is 60% chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir in 2012 and is just a terrific bottle of Champagne with years of life ahead of it. Indeed it is really just entering its prime drinking window. There is delicate red fruit in the attack and a beautiful sense of tension that runs right through the wine's chalky core. The overall vibe is one of great finesse. An outstanding bottle of wine for any Champagne lover (or any wine lover of any kind, really).
Larmandier-Bernier 2013 Champagne Grand Cru Extra Brut Vieilles Vignes du Levant
100% Chardonnay. Soil: Chalk and limestone. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and all grapes are hand harvested. Fermented using natural yeasts in a combination of 60% used barriques and 40% used foudres and left on the lees during the winter. Bottled unfined and unflitered, dosage is 2 grams/liter. Kept in the cool cellars between 36-48 months, hand disgorged and aged an additional 6 months prior to release. Disgorged by hand.
Larmandier-Bernier 2014 Champagne Grand Cru Extra Brut Les Chemins D'Avize
100% percent biodynamically farmed Chardonnay from the Chemin de Plivot and Chemin de Flavigny parcels in Avize. Pressed in a 2000kg press, fermented in neutral barrel and bottled with 2g/l dosage.
Ponson NV (2017) Champagne Extra Brut La Petite Montagne 1er cru
A base vintage of 2017 here. There is still the red fruit that marks the Coulommes, but it's more focused and concentrated, leaning towards kirsch notes and there is plenty savory complexity, with fennel-y accents. The texture and bubbles feel finer. This is extremely elegant for the price.
Pouillon, Roger NV (19 Base) Champagne Brut 1er cru Rosé de Maceration
Good Champagne rosés are, in fact, difficult to find. Pouillon's Rosé de Maceration is balanced, juicy, and highly drinkable! The Pinot Noir fruit for this rosé is entirely sourced from a premier cru parcel in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. It shows a pale copper-pink color in the glass and the nose is pleasantly complex with aromas of red cherries, blood oranges, tarragon, thyme, cinnamon, and cardamom. The palate is juicy, but lifted by a humming minerality, while aromas of Morello cherries and smoky tones are offered before a black cherry and cinnamon finish.
Tarlant NV(b14) Champagne Brut Zero
"The new release of Benoît and Mélanie Tarlant’s “Zero” Brut Nature is from the base year of 2014 and was aged fully six years sur latte prior to its disgorgement in February of 2021. The wine is roughly equal amounts of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier, with four percent of the blend comprised of more exotic grapes such as arbanne, petit meslier and pinot blanc. The wine contains a significant percentage of reserve wines in the cuvée as well. It offers up a lovely bouquet of apple, fresh-baked bread, chalky soil tones, dried flowers, a touch of hazelnut and plenty of upper register smokiness. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and complex, with lovely mineral drive, a fine core, elegant mousse and a long, well balanced and bone dry finish. By giving the wine a long elevage on its fine lees, the acids here have mellowed out nicely and the wine is drinking very nicely, despite its lack of dosage. Fine juice." John Gilman, View from the Cellar