Private Collection: A Wide-Ranging List of Wines with a nice degree of maturity

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Kelley Fox 2014 Willamette Valley Mirabai Pinot Noir

A blend of two legendary Oregon vineyards, Maresh and Momtazi, Kelley Fox's 2014 Mirabai Pinot Noir is considerably more structured and fruit-forward than the 2013, reflecting the warmth and sunshine of the vintage. Initially enticing with dried black cherry and sage notes, this vintage is chock full of ripe black fruits with savory, herbal, and baking spice undertones. Jonas Mendoza

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Kelley Fox 2015 Willamette Valley Momtazi Pinot Noir

This is the bigger and more powerful offering from the Momtazi Vineyard, certified biodynamic. From some of the finest single blocks of the vineyard, this is denser and darker, though still crystalline. Blue fruits and dark spicy character on the nose transmute into gentle, husky, undergrowth patterns on the palate. Dense but somehow cozy as well, this wine has a wonderfully poised character, not too wild, but neither tame. Big enough to be had with braised lamb, or beef stew, but also a numinous metaphysical experience on its own. 410 cases produced. Andrew Farquhar

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Rhys 2009 Santa Cruz Mountains Horseshoe Vineyard Pinot Noir

This wine is in the warehouse and will not be available for pick-up or delivery until after Labor Day.

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Nikolaihof 2006 Wachau Riesling Steiner Hund Reserve

2006 was a hot, ripe vintage in the Wachau and Kremstal but our friends at Nikolaihof still managed to keep things calm and reasonable, bringing this wine in at just 12.5 degrees. Steiner Hund is located just outside of the official Wachau borders, so rather than the expected Smaragd label this would otherwise carry, the Saahs family has elected to instead use the oft-abused term Reserve. Don't be fooled by the simple Napa-like nomenclature, though: this is seriously good wine. The nose is simply electric, a stunning array of lime blossom, sea spray, crushed rock and lemon rind. The palate matches the aromas and adds a delicious layer of saltiness to this floral, exceptionally fruited riesling. Delicate but concentrated and very long, this will drink well and improve for at least the next 15 years. -jfr

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  • Biodynamic
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Grans-Fassian 2004 Mosel Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Auslese GK 375ml

This split packs quite a punch, beginning with aromas of petrol, salt brine, lilacs, and nutmeg. The palate is rich and textured with candied lemons and lemon custard with an admirably long finish. An elegant coda to any meal! - David Salinas

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Haart, Reinhold 2007 Mosel Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Spätlese EL

Classic nose of tropical fruits. You can tell this wine is stuffed just by smelling it. Really open for business when I tasted this in August 2008. Opulent with great acidity and really goes all over the palate. Really profound. Haart hit a homerun in 2007. LF

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Enderle & Moll 2013 Baden Pinot Noir Buntsandstein

A step up in terms of structure and detail from the Liaison, which is also planted on Buntsandstein. There is definitely more energy and lift, though it manages to be lean and lovely, a step up in elegance instead of power and alcohol. A bit more chewiness and tannin but great balance overall. Really exceptional. Vines planted in 1954. Jonathan Kemp

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  • Organic

Enderle & Moll 2013 Baden Pinot Noir Ida

Waxy, with violets and black cherry aromas. Lots of soft, pretty fruit, with a touch of orange peel and subtle, chewy texture. Understated and earthy. The Ida is from a small parcel of 40 year-old vines Sven and Florian recently purchased from an older woman named Ida, who was farming organically. It's not contiguous to the rest of their Buntsandstein parcels, and this is the first vintage, but it is the most feminine and ethereal of their lineup. Very drinkable now but will certainly develop with time in the bottle. Jonathan Kemp

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  • Organic

Enderle & Moll 2013 Baden Pinot Noir Muschelkalk

Planted in 1953 on Muschelkalk (limestone), these vines are the oldest in the village. Most of the older vines were more difficult to work and were sadly ripped out in the 1970s and 80s, but this luckily remains. There is a finer tannic structure here, with a lot of detail and layers. While retaining the elegant balance of the wines from colored sandstone, it is darker and more focused but also tighter. It will warrant some more time in bottle or a good decant, but it will be well worth the effort. Jonathan Kemp

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