Private Collection: Burgundy

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Impeccable bottles, just in time for the holidays...

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Bart 2013 Marsannay Les Champs Salomon

Les Champs Salomon, a vineyard in a prime mid-slope position, gives one of the most dense and powerful of Marsannays, and is always the "biggest" wine in Martin Bart's portfolio. The limestone sub-soil here is similar to that in parts of Gevrey Chambertin, with clay topsoil. The vines are 35 years-old. Hand-harvested, wild yeast fermentation with a long maceration and 18 months of aging in barrels, 30% of which are new. The 2013 is a bit softer than the 2012 - very aromatic and lush with ripe black raspberry and black cherry with violets, dried herbs, cocoa and a bit of toasty oak. The palate shows deep, meaty red fruits with good acidity and soft tannins. This is an opulent and delicious glass of Burgundy that is lovely now, probably best in three to eight years.

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De Montille 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds

From a 1.51 ha parcel in the rocky soils of Taillepieds. Biodynamically farmed 100% whole cluster. Aged in 30% new oak barrels. The de Montille 2016 Volnay Taillepieds is one of the highlights in a vintage full of effusively floral and vibrantly precise Burgundies. The wine has a pale ruby robe. The nose is exuberantly scented with sweet aromas of wild roses, cherry blossom, and perfectly ripe wild cherry. The palate is incisively stony with the breathtakingly pure red fruits framed with mouthwatering acidity and a sapid mineral core. The rising finish is impressively persistent and offers that classic peacock's tail of after-aromas and flavors. The impression is one of energy and lift rather than density or mass, though this has the balance to age effortlessly. An exceptional Taillepieds and a perfect expression of the virtues of the excellent, if difficult vintage! Bravo to Etienne de Montille! John McIlwain

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  • Organic
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Magnien, Stephane 2010 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Monts Luisants

Monts Luisants is above Clos de la Roche, near Gevrey, with very shallow rocky soil giving well structured wines with good acidity. Superb aromas, mostly cherry with a dense, complex palate that stays light on its feet but with fabulous "presence." Terrific length with refreshing acids — a beautifully elegant wine that will age well.

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Magnien, Stephane 2010 Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru

From a small parcel of sixty year-old vines. This is an excellent Clos Saint Denis at a very reasonable price. Very subtle and complex aromas, the palate has fabulous dense material but is light and balanced. Superb, very long and very complex finish. 12 bottles are available. Here's Jancis Robinson "Richly perfumed, almost exotic though still very refined. So elegant, almost reserved to begin and then builds across the palate. Finest of fine tannins but still has the tannin and freshness for a long life. Tannins add a savoury edge but the fruit is pure and sweet through the middle and yet that dry finish avoids all unwanted sweetness overall. Very long and beautifully precise. (JH)"

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Maréchal, Catherine et Claude 2010 Pommard La Chaniere

A beautiful Pommard from Catherine and Claude Maréchal. La Chanière, just above the premier cru of the same name, is a south-facing slope in the valley above Les Arvelets. This showed beautifully in our tasting with Claude last winter—complex high-toned red fruit aromas, dense palate without fat, well-structured and with terrific length. This will need a few years in the cellar, peak drinking perhaps five to fifteen years from now. Highly recommended.

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