Five generations since 1910 at this organic estate based in Ladoix.

Introducing the Organic Burgundies of Domaine Céline Perrin, Plus 2020 Auxey-Duresses from Gilles Lafouge!

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Five generations at Domaine Perrin

Domaine Céline Perrin, Ladoix

We're always looking for estates in Burgundy that practice organic farming, so we were very happy to find Domaine Céline Perrin in Ladoix which converted to organic agriculture in 2003 and received Ecocert certification in 2008. Céline Perrin took over the estate from her father Christian in 2015 and is the fifth generation at this 9 hectare domain, with vineyards in 10 different appellations. The estate sells most of their small production to local clients and restaurants, so we're fortunate to have a small allocation from the excellent 2020 vintage.

"Our viticulture is based on respect for the soil and the rythme of the seasons, letting nature and the terroir express themselves. In the vineyard weed control is done mechancally (with a blade along the base of the vine) as well as manually with hoes."

Grass in the rows, plowing with disk near vines

A few Highlights:

The Bourgogne Aligoté comes from vines that are over 80 years-old, thus a bit more dense and full-bodied than most Aligoté - it's the perfect aperitif!

2020 Bourgogne Blanc This hails from the thin stony soils of Ladoix. The wine shows a very pale gold color and subtle aromas of apple, pear, dried herbs (mint) and a bit of oak. The palate is lean and dense showing the limestone terroir, with a rather strong saline minerality with white fruit and citrus flavors, finishing bone-dry with stone and citrus in the long finish.

2020 Ladoix "Sur les Vris" is Chardonnay from an east-facing slope in the north part of Ladoix abutting ancient quarries and just below the 1er Cru "Les Gréchons."

2020 Ladoix 1er Cru "Les Gréchons" is just to the northeast of the Grand Cru Corton-Mourottes, on the north side of the hill of Corton. The slope is covered with limestone scree and pebbles - tailings from ancient limestone quarries.

2020 Meursault "Sous la Velle" is from a large parcel just south of the village, giving wines that tend to be quite round and full-bodied, ideal for drinking as young wines.

The Perrin's "Clos des Fourches"

2020 Hautes-Côtes de Nuits is from vines in and around Ladoix, including the "Clos des Fourches," a tiny parcel above Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru "Clos de la Maréchale."

2020 Ladoix "Briquottes" is from another part of the quarries that used to cover this slope, just below the 1er Cru "Les Gréchons" - the stone was cut into "briques" that were wrapped in paper and put between the bed covers in the winter.

2020 Aloxe-Corton "Les Boutières" is from a parcel at the southern tip of Aloxe-Corton, bordering Chorey and Savigny-les-Beaune. The name refers to an ancient road that continued up though Savigny and Pernand-Vergelesses used by mule-drivers carrying "boutes' - goat-skins filled with wine (sometimes from Etruria and Campania (!) as early as the 2nd century BC).

Domaine Gilles Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses

(2020 vintage, part 2) While value is relative in the ever more expensive world of Burgundy, perhaps no grower offers as much value as Gilles Lafouge. The wines are precise, honest and satisfying at prices that allow for (nearly) everyday drinking as well as cellaring beautifully. John Gilman's excellent View From the Cellar concurs:    

Not surprisingly, for folks who have been following the wines from Domaine Lafouge over the last decade or so, Gilles Lafouge has made utterly superb wines in the 2020 vintage. He started picking his chardonnay parcels on August 23rd and finished the last of his pinot noir parcels within the week. All of the domaine’s white wines come in between thirteen and 13.5 percent octane in this vintage and are absolutely precise, minerally-infused and very pure wines that strongly recall the wines from Domaine Roulot in their snap, lime-scented fruit tones and beautifully pure expressions of their underlying terroir. Not surprisingly, Monsieur Lafouge considers 2020 an absolutely exceptional vintage for white wines from his domaine, which he notes “have the fine acidity and minerality of 2014, but even better depth than that vintage.” Like so many estates in the Côte de Beaune, he observed that “yields for the white wines were very correct in 2020, but red wines were down on average about thirty percent in this vintage.” He felt that it was very important to keep the texture of the tannins as refined as possible in 2020, so he did no pigeages (punch-downs) at all for his red wines in this vintage and was content to simply pump over the juice for extraction, as he did not want to extract any coarseness in his tannins. His red wines are very black fruity in the style of the vintage, but also quite classically proportioned and beautifully reflective of their underlying terroir."       Domaine Lafouge is definitely "under the radar" but is producing beautiful Burgundies that are superb values!

Jean and Gilles Lafouge (2018?)

There is excellent vineyard work here, in the process to becoming organic, with very short pruning and no green harvest. Hand-harvesting and wild-yeast fermentations of course, about 10 to 25% new oak, minimal batonnage for the whites and natural clarifications. A particular standout and superb value is the "village" Auxey-Duresses Rouge - it shows pretty aromatics with lovely ripeness and balance on the palate - it's delicious now and will drink nicely over the next ten to fifteen years.

(Lafouge tasting notes are fom Mr. Gilman's "View from the Cellar" - any serious wine-lover should consider subscribing!)

Please allow until Thursday, Nov 3rd for pick-up/shipping. 10% case/mixed case discount applies.

 

Perrin, Céline 2020 Ladoix "Sur les Vris"

The Perrin Ladoix "Sur les Vris" is an east-facing slope in the north part of Ladoix abutting ancient quarries and just below the 1er Cru "Les Grechons." The wine shows a gold or light straw color, with aromas of ripe white and yellow fruits, with earth, citrus and floral notes and a touch of oak. The palate has nice weight and density with pear and peach fruit balanced by firm acids and mineral flavors with a touch spice and bitter lemon in the long finish. "It is a wine whose breadth and weight are balanced by its lovely freshness," say the Perrins. Please decant or open in advance if drinking now, best 2023 - 2028.

  • white
  • 15 in stock
  • $28.99

  • Organic

Perrin, Céline 2020 Ladoix 1er Cru "Les Gréchons"

The Perrin Ladoix 1er Cru "Les Grechons" is just to the northeast of the Grand Cru Corton-Mourottes. The slope is covered with limestone scree and pebbles - tailings from ancient limestone quarries. There is so little white Ladoix kicking around, I had no reference point. But this was lovely, showing white peach and lime curd, with some spiciness and toasted almond notes. Good mineral density in the finish here, this is good now but will benefit from a few years in the cellar.

  • white
  • 21 in stock
  • $41.99

  • Organic

Lafouge 2020 Auxey-Duresses Les Boutonniers

"Les Boutonniers" is contiguous with Meursault "Meix Chavaux" on shallow soils of clay, high in iron, over the limestone bedrock, usually giving a somewhat lean and very "mineral" white Burgundy.

"The 2020 les Boutonniers is one of the ripest white wine in the cellars this year, coming in at a svelte 13.2 percent octane! The wine is beautiful, offering up a complex nose of tart pear, apple, lime blossoms, chalky soil tones, beeswax and just a hint of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and tensile in personality, with a fine core of fruit, excellent mineral drive and a long, zesty finish. I would be inclined to give this lovely wine a couple of years in the cellar and let some of its secondary layers unfurl. Fine juice." John Gilman "View from the Cellar"

  • white
  • 3 in stock
  • $43.99

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Perrin, Céline 2019 Bourgogne Aligoté

The Perrin Bourgogne Aligoté comes from vines that are over 80 years-old, thus a bit more dense and full-bodied than most Aligotés. This is an Aligoté that will reward patience and a decant. Tight and compact upon opening, this blossomed with air, yielding fresh lemon, daffodil and crisp yellow apple all swirling around a profoundly mineral core. I was shocked how stony this wine felt at the four hour mark. Quite serious and fine, especially for the price.

  • Out of Stock
  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $19.99

  • Organic

Perrin, Céline 2020 Bourgogne Blanc

The Céline Perrin Bourgogne Blanc hails from the thin stony soils of Ladoix. The wine show s a very pale gold color and subtle aromas of apple, pear, dried herbs (mint) and a bit of oak. The palate is lean and dense showing the limestone terroir, with a rather strong saline minerality with white fruit and citrus flavors, finishing bone-dry with stone and citrus in the long finish. Not a fruit-bomb, serve this glass of earth with grilled or broiled fish - decant or open in advance if possible.

  • Out of Stock
  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $22.99

  • Organic

Perrin, Céline 2020 Meursault "Sous la Velle"

2020 Meursault "Sous la Velle" is from a large parcel just south of the village, giving wines that tend to be quite round and full-bodied, ideal for drinking young. This is by no means flabby or fat though, with balanced acidity and a mineral streak that bring some of the toasty, subtly creamy characteristics into focus. A pale gold in the glass, there are aromas of fresh orchard and citrus fruit with some delicate white flowers and toasted almonds, with a texture that seems to melt on the tongue.The palate is surprisingly tensile with  a mineral core, wood tannins and flavors of apples and citrus. It strikes a great balance between freshness and richness, delicious now but with potential to evolve nicely over the next few years. A phenomenal value for Meursault!

  • Out of Stock
  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $47.99

  • Organic

Perrin, Céline 2020 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuit

The Perrin Hautes-Cotes de Nuits is from vines in and around Ladoix, including the "Clos des Fourches," a tiny parcel above Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru "Clos de la Marechale."  Another wine that yielded major dividends over the course of a few hours, this started out all cherry skin and white pepper. But with time in the glass, the fruit turned juicy and round and the white pepper subsided, showing allspice, black pepper and a dusty and compelling mineral note. Again, terrific value here.

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $26.99

  • Organic

Perrin, Céline 2020 Ladoix "Les Briquottes"

The Perrin Ladoix "Briquottes" is from another part of the quarries that used to cover this slope, just below the 1er Cru "Les Grechons" - the stone was cut into "briques" that were wrapped in paper and put between the bed covers in the winter. Beautiful garnet color with purplish reflections. On the nose, the bouquet opens with floral, bright red fruits (raspberry, strawberry, blackcurrant) and jam. On the palate, we find all the finesse of the fruits with silky tannins and a round chalky texture with a bit of citrus, finishing with firm acidity and sappy berry fruits. This red Ladoix will go well with beef, poultry and game birds, served a bit cool. Delicious now but best 2025 - 2030.

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $28.99

  • Organic

Perrin, Céline 2019 Aloxe-Corton "Les Boutières"

The Perrin Aloxe-Corton "Les Boutieres" is from a parcel at the southern tip of Aloxe-Corton, bordering Chorey and Savigny-les-Beaune. The name refers to an ancient road that continued up though Savigny and Pernand-Vergelesses used by mule-drivers carrying "boutes' - goat-skins filled with wine, (sometimes from Etruria and Campania (!) as early as the 2nd century BC). One of the best known village level Aloxe sites, these vines are planted in quite deep clay soils full of iron oxide (red mud that sticks to your shoes). This is a classic Boutieres, with vivid red fruit and a meaty salty character somewhat obscured at present by vigorous tannic structure. It's by no means unapproachable but 4-6 years in the cellar will bring everything into high definition.

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $36.99

  • Organic

Lafouge 2020 Bourgogne Aligoté

 "The 2020 Bourgogne Aligoté from Domaine Lafouge is half barrel-fermented and half fermented in stainless steel and the combination works beautifully in 2020, as the wine offers up scents of green apple, lime, stony minerality and a pretty topnote of white flowers. On the palate the wine is crisp, full-bodied and racy, with a good core, fine focus and grip and a long, zesty finish. These vines are sixty years of age, so this is one of the top Aligoté bottlings one will come across in the Côte de Beaune."  John Gilman "View from the Cellar"

  • Out of Stock
  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $23.99

Lafouge 2020 Auxey-Duresses Les Hautés Blanc

The Lafouge Auxey-Duresses "Les Hautés" is from a north-facing parcel fairly high on the slope next to Meursault "Les Vireuils."

"The 2020 Auxey-Duresses Blanc “les Hautés” from Monsieur Lafouge is another beautifully racy and minerally example of the vintage. The bouquet jumps from the glass in a blaze of green apple, fresh lime, dried flowers, beeswax, limestone minerality and a whisper of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is precise, full-bodied and snappy, with a lovely core, excellent soil inflection and grip, bouncy acids and a very long, focused and very promising finish. Again, just a bit of patience will be handsome dividends with this excellent young wine."  John Gilman "View from the Cellar"

  • Out of Stock
  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $44.99

Lafouge 2020 Auxey-Duresses Rouge

The Lafouge Auxey-Duresses Rouge is always one of our best values in old-fashioned terroir-expressive red Burgundies. Here is John Gilman's "View from the Cellar" on the 2020 vintage:  "The nose is quite black fruity this year, wafting from the glass in a mix of black cherries, dark berries, bonfire, espresso, dark soil tones and a hint of cedar. On the palate the wine is deep, focused and full, with a lovely core of fruit, ripe tannins and fine length and grip on the well-balanced finish. This will need some bottle age to blossom, but will be a lovely drink once it is ready." (One case maximum, please)

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $39.99

Lafouge 2020 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru Les Duresses

Les Duresses, according to Jasper Morris, is the best placed vineyard in Auxey-Duresses, on a steep south-east facing slope that continues into Monthelie. This wine is always well-structured, a bit less forward than Lafouge's La Chapelle and it ages beautifully.

"The 2020 les Duresses rouge was also absolutely singing at the time of my visit to Domaine Lafouge. The nose is pure and classy, offering up a fine constellation of cassis, sweet dark berries, bitter chocolate, a superb base of soil tones, bonfire, cedar and a nice touch of coffee bean in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a superb core of fruit, lovely soil signature, ripe, buried tannins and impeccable balance on the long, focused and complex finish. Another stellar bottle in the making" John Gilman "View from the Cellar"

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $47.99

Lafouge 2020 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru La Chapelle

La Chapelle is a "climat" within Les Breterins and Reugne, on the steep slope of la Montagne de Bourdon, facing south/southeast. The vines are well-placed in mid-slope and are mostly sixty years-old, giving the most "generous" of the three Lafouge premier crus. The soils here are partially "marnes blanches"which seems to contribute to the more supple and elegant style of wines from this site. EL

"The fine premier cru of la Chapelle did not suffer from the same draconian yields as the Climat du Valle this year and the wine has utterly classical proportions as a result. The beautiful bouquet wafts from the glass in a refined mix of black cherries, sweet dark berries, gamebird, a touch of cocoa powder, lovely soil tones, currant leaf, bonfire and cedar. On the palate the wine is pure, precise and full-bodied, with a fine core, excellent soil undertow, already impressive complexity and a long, poised and seamlessly tannic finish that closes with excellent mineral drive and lift. Great juice."  John Gilman "View from the Cellar"

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $48.99