Pépière 2019 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Gorges Cru Communal

(Arrives 5/23) We're ecstatic to have another vintage of this superb new Muscadet from Pépière. The product of an exchange of juice with Fred Lailler at Domaine Bregeon from a tiny parcel of old vines on Gabbro bedrock with clay rich in quartz. The wine undergoes a slow fermentation and is then aged 36 months on the lees. (Marc Ollivier considers this a favorite of Pepiere's bottlings, along with the Château-Thébaud.) The 2019 Gorges is a complex, dense and beautifully structured wine, with  a bit more brightness and acidity than than the superb 2015.  The Gabbro terroir brings unique aromas showing almond, smoke and petrol notes in addition to stone, pear, quince and mushroom. The palate is dense and intensely mineral with ripe pear and quince, earth, almond, anise and citrus notes, with stone, lemon peel and white fruits lingering in the very long finish. If drinking young please give the wine a lengthy decant to release the unique character of this wine - best to wait at least 5 - 6 years before opening, then enjoy until 2042 and beyond.  David Lillie

Landron, Jo 2017 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Le Fief du Breil

(Arrives 7/13) Jo Landron's Fief du Breil is from a beautiful walled vineyard sloping towards the Sèvre, with clay, sand and quartz stones over a bedrock of orthogneiss. The vines average 40 to 50 years of age, the vineyard is certified organic and biodynamic and gives very low yields. In the dense and well-strctured 2017 vintage the wine was aged 30 months sur-lie. This beautiful Muscadet needs aeration or decanting, then shows aromas of grapefruit skin, pear, lime-flower, candied citrus and almond. The palate is perfectly balanced and intensely mineral - showing ripe white fruits, almond, anise and stone flavors with firm acidity and pronounced flavors of stone and saline mineral. This is a bit more forward than the granite and gabbro-based based wines - really superb as a young wine served with shellfish, grilled fish and white meats. As usual with great Muscadet it will age beautifully and pair with monkfish, lobster and aged goat cheeses. 2017 is a great vintage for this superb Muscadet - don't miss it!  David Lillie

Pépière 2021 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Briords Vieilles Vignes

(Arrives Wed 3/14) First produced in 1988, this great Muscadet is made from a three hectare parcel of old massale-selection vines (all over 60 years old, with a high percentage much older) on a slope above the Maine. The bedrock is Granite de Château Thébaud, a fissured rock that allows the vines to penetrate deeply, with ideal thin topsoils of clay, with sand and gravel allowing good drainage.  "We had a very small harvest following the spring frost of 2021. This severe frost had two consequences: few bunches being present on the vine, it had no stress or problem "feeding" these grapes. The other important point is that the frost created a long delay in the growth of vegetation. In 2021 the harvest started late on September 16 - If it hadn't been for this frost, the harvest would probably have started at the end of August. For all the wines, and in particular Briords, this translates into a slower maturity of the grapes allowing a greater conversation of acidities (lower acidity in the finished wine). In the end, the Briords 2021 is, in our eyes, a very nice vintage qualitatively but which we do not wish to have again because quantitatively it is very, very tiny!" Gwénaëlle and Rémi.  Indeed, the 2021 Briords shows aromas that are a bit riper than usual - very elegant pear, stone, almond and citrus. The palate shows a bit less weight than the 2020, but still has a beautiful core of minerals and firm acidity below subtle pear, apple, lemon, stone and earth flavors, with a bright, scintillating finish. Our advice is to drink the beautiful and more forward 2021, while waiting (another 5 to 10 years) for the 2020 to develop. David Lillie

Landron, Jo 2020 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Les Houx

 The 2020 "les Houx" is a great Muscadet by Jo Landron coming from an organic/biodynamic vineyard on clay and sand over a sub-soil of gneiss, rich in iron and quartz and quite high in acidity. Kept on the lees for 12 months. In the glass, this white is a clear lemon in color. Aromatically defined by bright mineral stoniness, softened by smells of flowers and herbs. A richer, more concentrated core of yellow stone fruit develops as the wine gets some air. On the palate, mild flavors of cured lemon and apricot are accented by a hit of salinity, all culminating in a simple, precise finish of anise and flint. Lovely acid and a tender mouthfeel drives the structure.  This will drink well young, with grilled  or steamed fish and shellfish but also with crab, langoustines and lobster, especially after a few years of aging. For those who like some minerals in their Muscadet...

Bregeonnette (Stéphane Orieux) 2020 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clos Coudray

Stéphane Orieux's father Joseph converted the estate to organic agriculture back in 1967, and Stéphane has continued the great vineyard work of this father. Clos de la Coudraye is a one hectare parcel in Vallet on granite subsoil with very old vines. The 2020 spent 18 months sur-lie before bottling. It's a lovely wine with ripe high-toned aromas of lemon confit, melon, dried herbs, white pepper and pear, a hint of smoke; the palate is dense and crystalline, a bit fresher than the 2018, with stone, saline, citrus, pear and anise flavors, with a lovely, creamy texture and meyer lemon and oyster shell in the finish, framed in firm acidity. A delicious classic Muscadet from granite soils, drink now or hold for 10 to 15 years. (A bottle of 2014 tasted recently  was superb!) Highly recommended!