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963-68 Syrah, 90% from Champon, 10% Cognet, Le Plomb, all northern sector, 98% Syrah, 2% Viognier. Dark colour. Smoky, charcoal, black olives. There are airs of date, slight resin, a glimmer of flowers. The palate delivers an immediate punch via a mixed bag of dark black and blue fruits – fig jam, date – with a low-key minting, with The style is full, no holding back, is a traditional Côte-Rôtie, much more of a wine of the south than related to Burgundy, the north. There are floral flashes on the late stages.
1963-68 Syrah, 90% from Champon, 10% Cognet, Le Plomb, all northern sector, 98% Syrah, 2% Viognier. Dark red robe with black tints. Brambly fruit, smoky, dark berries airs on the nose along with sizzled bacon, a trace of violets. The palate gives butty fronted black fruit, black jam, all close-knit. It is smoky from its oak, and there is cool blueberry fruit at its heart. It shows the vintage crispness on the finish, the aftertaste very peppery. Drink until 2028
The 2014 Pichat Côte Rôtie Löss shows a dark robe. The bouquet produces an aroma of lamb stock, sweet herbs, a fine line of black berry fruit. The palate runs with an enjoyable, in the moment, berry fruit, with a gourmand, tasty flavour. The finish is marked by an increase in darkness from its tannins which have good cut. This is open, nicely sunny. Drink until 2028.
In the past ten or so years, the wines of Jean-Marie Fourrier have gone from one of the best-kept secrets in Burgundy to one of the best-known quantities. These are wines of almost heartbreaking delicacy, brimming with fragile pure red fruit and spice. The viticulture here is first rate and the use of new oak is fabulously restrained, notable in a village where it is often applied lavishly. The Gevrey Chambertin "Vieilles Vignes" is sourced from three parcels, largely planted between 1955 and 1928. Year in and out, this is one of the best village-level wines made anywhere.
From 40 to 80 year-old massale-selection Chardonnay vines high on the slope in Cruzille on limestone with a great deal of calcium carbonate crystal (aragonite) with thin topsoils of clay and silica, never treated with chemicals, certified biodynamic. Fermentation is in 600 liter barrels with wild yeasts, aged 10 months sur-lie without racking, no SO2 until a small dosage (10 - 20 mg/l) before bottling. The 2019 boasts a pretty yellow-green robe. Lovely aromas of white and yellow flowers dominate the nose, just a whiff or Meyer lemon oil and apple blossom on the periphery. The palate is ripe, juicy, and vibrant with pure stone fruit and citrus curd flavors underlain with a savory, salty, crystalline core. This is magnificent with great drive and an expansive finish. Lovely stuff! John McIlwain