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Well, summer is here and with its arrival our allocations are dribbling in. Quantities are much diminished (something I've emphasized in previous emails) but there are some extremely cool wines available nonetheless. So today is a small assembly of several producers. They hail from all over Burgundy and all do exceptional work both in the vineyards and in the cellar.
The list today begins with Domaine Jean-Hugues & Guilhem Goisot. These wines have been a regular feature of our shelves the last few years. They are not only some of the best value wines in Burgundy, (where prices for even the most modest wines approach dizzying prices) but in white wine, full stop. They are based in the village of Saint Bris-le-Vineux, just outside Chablis, where they produce their flagship wine, Sauvignon de Saint Bris. This is the sole appellation in Burgundy dedicated to Sauvignon Blanc and in the hands of the Goisot family it is easily the equal of the very best Sancerre, with excellent ripeness and mineral intensity from the limestone soils. In addition to this, they make excellent Aligoté–dusty and lemony–as well as terrific Chardonnay from the Côte d'Auxerre that is better than most of the anodyne Chablis out there fetching three times the price. All three wines are on offer today (and in relatively decent quantity!) They will be in stock the end of this week.
Next up come the considerably more rarefied wines of Domaine Morey-Coffinet. Thibault Morey-Coffinet comes from families with DEEP roots in Chassagne—his grandfather was Marc Morey, his grandmother Cecile Pillot. His father created the domaine in the 1970s and Thibault has been firmly in charge for more than fifteen years. They have been farming organically for nearly twenty years and today are certified organic across their INCREDIBLE vineyard holdings. Thibault has been refining the style of wines steadily with his father these past two decades, finding increasing precision and elegance while reducing the amount of new oak. These are excellent by any standard and the 2020s should richly reward the patient drinker. These wines are in pre-arrival and will be available early next week.
We are excited to be able to take a second bite at the fabulous Chablis of Moreau-Naudet. We did offer these out recently but were not sure whether there would be more wine available. However, we received confirmation that there is, so here you go! Beachside wine if there ever was.
Lastly, we have a tiny quantity of Bourgogne Blanc from some guy named Dominique Lafon... Just kidding. Dominique is considered one of the great Burgundy winemakers of the last forty years and the wines he makes under his own name (as opposed to the family estate Domaine du Comte Lafon) are brilliant values.
** ALL WINES ON OFFER TODAY ARE PRE-ARRIVAL AND WILL BE IN STOCK OVER THE NEXT WEEK **
Estates making serious Sauvignon de St. Bris are as rare as hens' teeth and Goisot sits atop this tiny heap. The appellation, (in the near-vicinity of Chablis) is the only one in Burgundy that permits the planting of Sauvignon Blanc and often gets lost in the ocean of Chardonnay. But when handled right, these can be wonderful, refreshing, salty wines. The 2020 is balanced and lovely, with some lime and a touch of sage. But the limestone core is what gives this wine its soul. The finish is firm and saline, making this more than a match for almost anything you might be having for dinner. Thinking about a bottle of Sancerre for this evening? You'd do well to consider this instead... Sam Ehrlich
This is one of my favorite Aligotes, year after year. The chalky intensity is palpable, with just enough lemon and orange blossom fruit to give it roundness and complexity. Bring on the oysters. This 2020 will be a regular on my stoop this summer.
Despite coming from a 2.5 hectare parcel of young vines, this wine is made with the same level of care that the rest of the wines are. Contrary to the profile of most Petit Chablis, yields are lower than average, fermentation is with indigenous yeast, and it is harvested by hand. The wine is aged for nine months in stainless steel before bottling.
This is sourced from vines between twenty and sixty years old and aged all wood. This is Chablis at its most inviting. It's full of juicy white fruit, peach and pear and feels generally supple and accessible from the moment the cork is pulled. But what is most captivating and engaging is the mineral component here. Chablis is defined by its limestone soils and at its best its character comes through as something I have always identified as "Welch's grape soda." Some people compare it to fennel or licorice, others to something else - it's somewhat nebulous, as tasting stones is not something we do in life. But whatever it is, this wine has it. The finish is stained with this unique expression of limestone, which is what we should ask of it. Outstanding for the price. Sam Ehrlich