Private Collection: France

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Baudry 2011 Chinon Franc de Pied

The Baudry's small plot of un-grafted vines on the lower part of the Clos Guillot is still alive and producing, and in 2011 the results are fabulous! Generally speaking the 2011 Chinons are forward, pleasing wines but with a bit less grip and minerality than the superb 2010s. In this case, however, the vintage seems to suit the young franc de pied vines and the wine is superb. The color is a deep red/black with complex floral black fruit aromas. The palate is fresh with bright blackberry/red currant fruit. It's zippy and long and all together delightful! 

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Baudry 2016 Chinon Les Grézeaux

"Les Grézeaux" is at the bottom of the slope in Sonnay on a plateau of gravel with sandy clay soils above limestone that slopes gently down towards the Vienne, the vines are 60 to 70 years old. The wine is aged in five to ten year-old barrels with no added SO2, with a tiny amount added prior to bottling. Tasted from barrel in January of 2017 and 2018, the wine showed beautifully with very floral black fruit aromas and lovely density on the palate with black raspberry, spice and earth, firm and balanced but not overly tannic, with lush fruit lingering in the very long finish. This is a bit firmer and should cellar better than the more forward 2015 -  it's a beautiful wine but we have about one-third of the normal allocation, so don't delay. Tasted from bottle in November 2018, the aromas seem brighter, crushed raspberry and black raspberry with stone, spice and floral hints. The palate is tighter and sapid with the mineral components firmly backing the dense black fruits, with stone, citrus and blackberries in the finish. Drink the 2015 now and put this away for five years, or give it a long decant if drinking now. Lovely wine.   David Lillie

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Chevalerie 2014 Bourgueil Busardiere

"Busardieres" is a great vineyard fairly high on the slope in Bourgueil on Middle Turonian limestone with shallow topsoils of clay with pebbles of limestone with mica, always giving a wine that is a bit austere in its youth, very mineral and built to age. The 2014 is a superb example that showed sensationally when tasted with Stephanie Caslot in February 2018. Re-tasted in September, the wine shows a deep red/black color with aromas of ripe morello cherry, black raspberry and elderberry, quite deep and meaty with hints of menthol, juniper, dark chocolate and black pepper. The palate shows dense, chalky, ripe black raspberry, cherry and black plum liqueur, beautifully balanced and fresh, with hints of cocoa, citrus peel, humus and minerals with a beautiful finish of bright, sappy fruit and stone flavors. This is a beautiful wine - a bit intense for drinking now, but with a long decant it will be lovely. Best after three to five years, drink till 2035 and beyond. Highly recommended. David Lillie

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Chevalerie 2015 Bourgueil Bretêche

(Arrives 8/30) Bretêche  is their easternmost vineyard, a rented plot on the border of Ingrandes-de-Touraine - (Domaine de la Chevalerie is  the only estate claiming this vineyard name). On the southwestern exposed upper part of the mid-slope, the vines are planted on a meter-deep heavier clay with high mica content above the Turonian yellow tuffeau. The vines, biodynamically farmed are between 25 to 55 years old. More powerful than Busardières with broader tannins, the wine maintains a great freshness. Hand-harvested and destemmed, the grapes are macerated for up to 20 days and aged in large used barrels in the magnificent underground cave dug into the yellow tuffeau for roughly 8 to 10 moths. The wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered. 2015 was an easier, more mastered vintage for the Caslot siblings, as the growing season was never extreme, and the harvests were peaceful. A little more concentrated than the 2014, especially in acidity, this a great vintage for the Domaine! Bretêche 15 is still a baby! Purple in the glass, the wine as usual has more freshness, tension and a little austerity. This is even more apparent here. The nose is a little restrained, showing progressively a lot of black and red currant and cranberry, hibiscus tea and black cardamon. In the palate, it is a superbly balanced wine, with some chiseled tannins enhanced by the lingering acidity. There is less flesh than other cuvées, and the texture is sleeker  but absolutely charming and vibrant - and could please any Burgundy lover. You will pick up more herbal notes in the palate : tobacco, beet juice, pink peppercorn. A great bottle to keep 10 years and plus, as it is built to age!  To serve it now, decant it a good hour at least or enjoy it over multiple days - a superb pairing would be with a roasted deboned pigeon stuffed with nettle and foie gras, but a slowly roasted pork loin with black garlic condiment would also be delicious. 100% Cabernet Franc. Pascaline Lepeltier 

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Chevalerie 2015 Bourgueil Cuvée Chevalerie

La Chevalerie is located between the Galichets and the winery, slightly higher on the slope, with more clay on the top part. The Turonian tuffeau is not even three feet below. The oldest vines date from 1903 and 1922, the average being 75 years. The sandier part of the plot goes into the Galichets. This cuvée is a perfect introduction to the more “serious” tuffeau driven bottlings of the domaine.  You still get the flesh and texture brought by the sand, you also pick up the racy, salty and fresh acidity typical of the tuffeau. The 2015 is now showing all its potential, after a quick decanting. An easier, more complete vintage compared to 2014 according to Stéphanie Caslot, the wine is showing concentration yet a lot of delicacy, with a noticeable floral bouquet, and more red berries as it ages. A little sweetness on the attack indicates a perfect ripeness, then you feel the limestone backbone on the terroir, with a juicy sandy flesh and  lingering chalky tannins make it ultra appealing. The fruit is a nice mix of red and black plum and cherry, with Chinese badiane and coriander seed, finishing with a great mix of salt, smoke and leather.  Without a doubt a great bottle at a terrific price, you can cellar it for 5 years and more, then enjoy until 2035, or serve it in large glass, quickly decanted, with any red meat with a poivre sauce, or a rack of lamb in Provençale herbs crust. 100% Cabernet Franc. Pascaline Lepeltier. 

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Chevalerie 2015 Bourgueil Les Galichets

 The Chevalerie "Galichets" vineyard is on mid-slope Turonian limestone with clay and alluvial sand and gravel topsoil, rich in silex; the vines average about 60 years of age - similar to the "Chevalerie" parcel but a bit lower on the slope, giving a wine that is more open and easy for early drinking.  The 2015 vintage is excellent, with a bit more ripeness and lower acidity than 2014, while retaining the core of minerals and acidity aslways found in the Chevalerie wines. The aromas of black raspberry and blackberry fruit are ripe and floral. The palate is dense and silky, very mineral with ripe red and black fruits and a clean vibrant finish. Still quite youthful, I would open this bottle the night before or give it a long decant, best perhaps 2022 - 2035.  David Lillie

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Dagueneau, Didier 1995 Pouilly-Fume En Chailloux .500 ml

En Chailloux, first bottled in 1982, is Dagueneau's first single-vineyard wine.

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Louvetrie (Jo Landron) 2004 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie Fiefs du Breil

Le Fief du Breil — a great hillside vineyard of clay and quartz stones over orthogneiss, tended in organic and biodynamic farming. 2004 is a great vintage for this wine, which we have enjoyed dozens of time over the years. The vintage in the Pays Nantais was better than in the eastern Loire as good weather held through the harvest, giving wines of excellent ripeness, but with a higher than usual level of acidity — the perfect combination for Muscadet! Re-Tasted in February 2016: Wow, a beautiful wine, packed with dried fruits, citrus, floral and mineral flavors, great balance and length, still young. 12% alc, unchaptalized, drink till 2030? We thank Jo for releasing a bit more of this super wine from his tiny stock of back vintages...

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Pinon 2017 Vouvray Silex Noir

(Will be 30.99) Our friends Francois and Julien Pinon produce sensational Vouvray at their estate in Vallée du Cousse and the 2017 Silex Noir is another superb example. From approximatley 40 year-old vines on soils of clay and flint over limestone in the vineyards of Terné and Batailleries. The wine shows beautiful aromas of pear, green apple, honeysuckle, almond, lemon, kiwi and stone. The palate is lemony and tart, but also ripe and complex with flavors of pear and peach, tea, toasted almond and saline minerals. A bit of residual sugar brings out all the best in this lovely Chenin Blanc, which is a delicous combination of ripeness and firm tart acidity. Delicious now - decant a few hours in advance if possible - or cellar 20 to 30 years. Serve with rilletes and rillons, fish in sauce, lobster, langoustines and scallops, chicken in cream sauce, too... David Lillie

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Bouland, Daniel 2014 Morgon Corcelette Vieilles Vignes

From two parcels of 80 to 90 year-old vines in Corcelette on sand and stony soils on granite. The 2014 is surprisingly tight and structured in this relatively lush and ripe vintage and shows subtle, floral, high-toned red currant and raspberry aromas. The palate is tight with red currant and berry fruits framed by mineral flavors and firm acidity. Good density and length in a medium-bodied frame at 13% alcohol. This will need perhaps five years to open fully but is lovely now in it's austere youth. Decant or open well in advance if drinking now, probably best 2020 to 2025+.

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Bouland, Daniel 2017 Morgon Delys Vieilles Vignes

Daniel Bouland is a great producer of old-fashioned Morgon.  From less than 7 hectares of old vines in the Douby, Côte de Py, and Delys, lieux of Morgon, plus small parcels in Chiroubles and Cote de Brouilly, he makes wines that can age 20 years, and are comparable to fine Côte de Nuits Burgundies.  De Lys (between Corcellette and Ville Morgon) was planted in 1926, on sandy granite soils.  All his grapes are hand-harvested and vinified with full clusters in order to extract all the organoleptic qualities, and bottled unfiltered. The 2017 is drinking beautifully, but cellaring of 5 to 8 more years would be very interesting.

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Coquelet 2018 Beaujolais-Villages

2018 is proving to be a superb vintage for Beaujolais, with lush, vibrant fruit and nice brightness despite the slightly higher than usual alcohol - the Damien Coquelet Beaujolais-Villages is a beautiful example and just a joyful wine! The wine shows a deep bright red color and aromas of crushed raspberry and strawberry with violet and citrus notes. The palate shows ripe sappy red and black fruits, pure and bright, lifted by citrusy acidity, with a nice earthy texture beneath the lush fruit that lingers in the long juicy finish.  Serve cool for immense enjoyment over the next three or four years!  David Lillie

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Dutraive 2014 Fleurie Clos de la Grand Cour

Certified organic since 2009, the Dutraive family's Domaine de la Grand Cour produces subtle, traditional wines from their 9 hectares in Fleurie and a small parcel in Brouilly. Harvested by hand, the grapes ferment with wild yeasts in carbonic maceration, without addition of sulfur. The "Clos de la Grand Cour" is aged in a combination of cuve inox, barrels and foudres. The wine shows bright aromas of violets, raspberry and strawberry fruit, earth and spice. Pretty berry and plum fruits on the palate with refreshing citrusy acids. The palate opens up nicely with time showing deep red-currant, strawberry, beach plum and citrus with a long sappy finish.

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Dutraive (Domaine de la Grand Cour) 2015 Brouilly Cuvée VV

From a small hillside parcel of 50-plus year-old vines in Brouilly, certified organic. Carbonic maceration with no addition of SO2, followed by foot-pressing, gravity fed into large barrels or foudres for aging. 12 mg of SO2 at bottling. In this year of intense ripeness in the Beaujolais, the Dutraive Brouilly Vieilles Vignes shows vivid aromas of raspberry liqueur, spice, citrus, menthol and violet with hints of earth and game; ripe red and black fruits on the palate with firm acidity, and dense fruit, spice, mineral and animal flavors in the long finish. This is a big, full-bodied and very complex Brouilly that will be most pleasing to lovers of natural wines and that will benefit from time in the cellar. Decant if drinking now and serve cool with grilled meats, guinea hen, charcuterie and full-flavored cheeses.

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Dutraive (Domaine de la Grand Cour) 2015 Fleurie Clos de la Grand Cour

Certified organic since 2009, the Dutraive family's Domaine de la Grand Cour produces subtle, traditional wines from their 9 hectares in Fleurie and a small parcel in Brouilly. Harvested by hand, the grapes ferment with wild yeasts in carbonic maceration, without addition of sulfur. The "Clos de la Grand Cour" is aged in a combination of cuve inox, barrels and foudres. The 2015 shows penetrating aromas of ripe strawberry and black cherry with pepper, iris, violet and earth. Elegant blackberry, plum-skin, licorice and earth on the palate, very deep and long, framed in firm acidity and quite powerful at 14.5% alcohol. This will be quite delicious now, served with steak, grilled pork, duck and strong cheeses, but should benefit from a few years of aging, best perhaps 2018 to 2022.

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Dutraive (Domaine de la Grand Cour) 2015 Fleurie La Part des Grives

This cuvée is from a late-harvest done in the parcel "Chapelle des Bois," collecting only a few grapes per vine one month after the normal harvest. A part of the small second generation grapes ("grismotte") are added to bring acidity and complexity to this extra-ripe harvest.

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Dutraive (Domaine de la Grand Cour) 2015 Fleurie Le Clos Vieilles Vignes

From low-yielding 60 to 70 year-old vines. Wild-yeast semi-carbonic maceration, without addition of SO2, aged 11 months in 1 to 4 year old barrels. Pretty aromas of raspberry and strawberry liqueur with violet, graphite and brown spice, brightened with citrus and herbal notes. The palate is round and quite ripe and dense with earthy red and black fruits, and supports well the 14.5% alcohol. The finish is supple and long, with adequate structure for 5 to 8 years of  aging. It's quite different from the 2014 vintage but equally enjoyable in its ripe, opulent style and may be quite beautiful with a few years in the cellar. David Lillie

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Dutraive (Domaine de la Grand Cour) 2016 Brouilly Cuvée VV

From a small hillside parcel of 50-plus year-old vines in Brouilly, certified organic. Carbonic maceration with no addition of SO2, followed by foot-pressing, gravity fed into large barrels or foudres for aging. Light Garnet/black color. The 2016, at 12.5% alcohol, is back to the style of the lovey 2014, showing pretty aromas of raspberry and red currant with bright citrus notes and  smells of earth and stone. The palate is light but intense with bright raspberry and tart cherry flavors over firm acidity with citrus and earth. The finish is refreshing with lingering citrus and mineral flavors. Serve with charcuterie, fish in sauce, chicken and pork dishes or hold for 5 to 8 years as this should be a very pretty mature wine.  David Lillie

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Lapierre 2014 Morgon

Another amazing Morgon from Mathieu and Camille Lapierre! There's an underlying minerality and complexity to this wine that is perhaps overshadowed by the joyful, smile-inducing fruit that jumps out of the glass. Though a candidate for aging 3 to 5 years, this bottle rarely lasts longer than a day in my possession! serve lightly chilled. eben lillie

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Lapierre 2018 Morgon Cuvee N

Especially during the 3-6 month period after bottling, the "N" ( no SO2 added) Morgon from the Lapierre camp is generally more open and lifted aromatically, with pure fruit and great mid-palate and finish. Often the version with SO2 added before bottling is more closed and muted aromatically and needs a bit more time to open up before showing off all the pretty red fruit. There have been several tastings that can be researched for more insight on these different versions of an otherwise identical wine. Some posit that the bottling with SO2 added would be a better candidate for long time aging, but I'm not sure I concur. We will have to put a bottle of each 2018 away and return to this conversation next decade!   -EL

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Lapierre 2019 Morgon

  Matthieu and Camille Lapierre continue the beautiful work of their father, producing an elegant Morgon in the solar 2019 vintage. The wines had a dark ruby robe. The nose is a deep-pitched mélange of ripe, bosky red fruits fruits, black tea, bramble, game, and violets. The concentrated palate offers an array of stone, cherry pit, red plum, and licorice flavors with ripe tannins and a snappy mineral spine lending energy and structure that carries over on the long savory finish. This is lovely with a bit of a chill, but will come into its own with 3-5 years in the cellar. John McIlwain

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Thevenet, Jean-Paul 2014 Morgon Vieilles Vignes

Always one of the greatest of Beaujolais. From 4.75 hectares near Le Clachet, from vines averaging 70 years of age, with some planted before World War One. About 2,000 cases are produced. Vineyard work is biodynamic, fermentation is with wild yeasts at a moderately low temperature (10 - 13 degrees Celsius). Aging is mostly in old barrels from DRC with minimal extraction. 2014 was a classic vintage for Beaujolais, as poor early weather gave way to sunshine from mid-August, producing well-balanced wines with good ripeness and firm acidity. The 2014 Thevenet shows reduction, then complex aromas of red currant, strawberry, earth, violet, blood orange, spice  and licorice.The palate shows bright red currant and berry liqueur with mineral, citrus, rose and spice. The finish is firm with fruit and mineral flavors with good density and length. Decant if drinking now, this superb Morgon will be best from 2020 to 2025 and beyond.

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Thevenet, Jean-Paul 2014 Morgon Vieilles Vignes 1.5 L

This belongs in your cellar! Always one of the greatest of Beaujolais. From 4.75 hectares near Le Clachet, from vines averaging 70 years of age, with some planted before World War One. About 2,000 cases are produced. Vineyard work is biodynamic, fermentation is with wild yeasts at a moderately low temperature (10 - 13 degrees C). Aging is mostly in old barrels from DRC with minimal extraction. 2014 was a classic vintage for Beaujolais, as poor early weather gave way to sunshine from mid-August, producing well-balanced wines with good ripeness and firm acidity. The 2014 Thevenet shows reduction, then complex aromas of red currant, strawberry, earth, violet, blood orange, spice and licorice. The palate shows bright red currant and berry liqueur with mineral, citrus, rose and spice. The finish is firm with fruit and mineral flavors with good density and length. Decant if drinking now, this superb Morgon will be best from 2020 to 2025 and beyond.

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