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There are times when one looks in one's cellar (or the speadsheet from their storage company), and a reasonable person asks themselves, "Am I going to drink all this?" I am by no means reasonable, but the question can be asked. Others have a more sensible outlook and likely understand how actuarial tables work. Below is a cellar cull by a longtime customer in the trade. Wines were purchased on release and removed from professional storage. As always, the bottles are guaranteed. Happy hunting! John McIlwain
Adam, A.J. 2011 Mosel Riesling Dhroner Hofberg Spätlese
The Spätlese comes from various parcels in the Hofberg including some vines planted in 1953. Similar aromatics to the Kabinett but it's riper, richer and insanely long. The finish just erupts. To mix metaphors, it comes on like a tidal wive. Tremendous acid that's in balance with intense sweetness, with classic Adam citrus/apple tones and a distinctly mineral texture on the finish. One to age for years and years or enjoy now. -jfr
Lauer, Peter 2016 Saar Ayler Kupp Riesling Stirn
Fass 15, Stirn (forehead), comes from near the top of the Ayler Kupp where the hill curves around; the cooler climate and wind at this altitude makes for a site that is often harvested last.
Schaefer, Willi 2011 Mosel Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett #3
A touch more intense than the Himmelreich; peachier, but still with classic green apple notes. Just darker tones across the board. On the palate the flavors are multi-faceted: cassic, cherry, lemon, lime, lots of acid. It's a terrific vintage for this as well. Long, open and generous. -jfr
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2011 Nahe Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Kabinett Trk GG
As famous as Tim is getting for his increasingly rare and expensive dry wines, we shouldn't forget what an incredbile job he continues to do with the sweeter-styled wines. The 2011 Kabinett is a bit dialed back from the mammoth 2010 (as is typical across the board, it seems). I love Kabinett and entry-level wines from this estate because they reign in some of the more opulent, showy characteristics his wines are known for and are simply fun to drink. The bright aromatics take some time to unfold but are quite pretty nonetheless, with classic lemon, lime and tangerine notes. Vivid, sparkling and with tremendous balance, it's an excellent Kabinett and one to enjoy as Tim Frohlich's star continue to rise. -jfr
Vollenweider 2018 Mosel Riesling Wolfer Goldgrube Kabinett
A touch of sponti on opening. But with a good amount of air a beautiful nose emerges, apple blossom, Meyer lemon peel, bee pollen, dance with aromas of green tea and wet stone. There’s a touch of dissolved CO2 on the palate—you know, old school Mosel Riesling. The palate is distinctly stony, and I’d venture slatey. Piggybacking on all that stone are flavors of green apple skin, umeboshi, and quince, with all the lift and sparkling energy inherent in a Mosel Kabinett. Lifted and lithe, bright and brisk, this is lovely stuff. I’d give it a few years to knit the fruit, stone, and reductive elements, but this is lovely stuff and should age effortlessly. Vollenweider is a master of Pradikat wines (not to mention, a wonderful person) and any true Riesling lover should consider his wines for their cellar. I can’t wait to drink this with crab cakes, softshell crab, or a bowl of shrimp and Geechie Boy Mills grits. John McIlwain
Vollenweider 2019 Mosel Krover Riesling Steffsberg Spatlese
From vines that are 40+ years old and picked at 103° Oechsle and fermented to 90 g/l residual sugar. The 2019 Kröver Steffensberg Riesling Spätlese has a pale yellow green robe. The nose is airy and lifted offering cool minty and sweet herbal aromas (Spring in a glass) giving way to scents of apple blossom, a white peach nectar, and wet slate. The palate is chiseled and taut on the attack, brimming with salty mineral notes with ripe flavors of white cherry, apple skin, and Meyer lemon oil radiating outward. This is already layered and offering nascent complexity, but oh! what a bright future this has once the structural elements harmonize. Gorgeous! John McIlwain
Vollenweider 2019 Mosel Riesling Wolfer Goldgrube Spätlese
The 2019 Wolfer Goldgrube Spätlese (AP 02 20) sourced from old vines in the Wolfer Goldgrube, picked at 96° Oechsle fermented down to 96 g/l residual sugar. This is a beautiful Spätlese balancing flinty/stony notes and magnificent floral aromas on the nose giving way to lush stone fruit and Cara Cara orange peel. The palate shows the ripeness of the vintage (and a touch of botrytis) but has an electric core of acidity lending focus and dazzling energy to the long, lingering, harmonious finish. This is a beautiful bottle now, but 5 to 10 years in the cellar to allow the elements to knit should be rewarded handsomely in complexity and nuance. Highly recommended! John McIlwain
Vollenweider 2019 Mosel Riesling Kröver Steffensberg Auslese GKA
The stellar 2019er Kröver Steffensberg Riesling Auslese GK was made from 80% botrytized fruit picked at 126° Oechsle, and was fermented down to noble-sweet levels of residual sugar (145 g/l) (per Mosel Fine Wines). The robe is a pale gold, The nose offers beguiling aromas of pear nectar, orange oil, quince, peach skin, and honeysuckle. The palate is rich and supple verging on unctuous, with magnificent honeyed notes and juicy stone fruit flavors with a streak of freshening acidity rippling beneath. The crystalline mineral character buoys the sweetness and and adds an almost racy character to the finish. This is a stellar Auslese and should age brilliantly for 25+ years. John McIlwain