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It's been a minute since we've been able to offer out some new release Burgundy so we are coming back at full speed, with a range of '19s from some very serious producers.
Domaine Henri Magnien in Gevrey-Chambertin farms roughly six hectares, including holdings in some of the village's best known vineyards. Charles Magnien is the current regisseur and his star in the region is rapidly ascending. The vineyards are farmed organically (uncertified) and everything is done by hand. In the cellar, the village and 1er Crus alike see about 25% new oak and varying percentages of whole clusters. There is very little pumping over or pumping down during maceration. Charles is seeking buoyant lively wines unencumbered by lots of extraction. The wines are new to New York but I recently had a chance to taste the Gevrey "Vieilles Vignes" cuvée offered here today and was really impressed. There is lovely fullish strawberry and dark cherry fruit, with real grip and structure without losing the prettiness of the wine. The finish is long and quite spicy and savory. If you are a fan of Duroché, don't miss these wines.
Next on the docket is the one, the only... Sylvain Pataille. Sylvain grew up in Marsannay in a family that did not own vines but his best friend from childhood is Laurent Fournier (of Domaine Jean Fournier) and they spent plenty of time together in the Fournier family vineyards. Perhaps more responsible than any other grower for the elevation of Marsannay in the eye of the current Burgundy drinker, Sylvain has lived two careers for more than twenty years - one as the operator of his eponymous domaine, the other as one of the most respected and sought-after oenologists in the region. He has long been a proponent of organic and biodynamic viticulture, whole bunch fermentations and low-sulfur winemaking. He has never been anything than ruthlessly experimental. He is one of the leaders of the Aligoté association Les Aligoteurs and makes the greatest rosé in Burgundy - a cuvée called Fleur de Pinot. If you know, then I don't need to say anything else, and if you don't, then this is it - you'll never look back.
I said today that we were coming in hot. Well, the sun is shining. Next up is Emmanuel Rouget, nephew and winemaking heir to the legendary Henri Jayer since his retirement in 2001. Emmanuel farms some of the most storied vineyards in Burgundy, without herbicides or pesticides, producing deeply aromatic and serious wines that have incredible aging capacity.
Last but not least, the Bourgogne Epineuil 2019 from one of my favorite producers of the last year, Dominique Gruhier. Based in the Auxerre, Dominique makes some really electric whites and Cremant, which have been staples of our list over the last year (sadly, all out of stock at moment). But I tasted this red last week and was completely bowled over. The reds of the Auxerre have historically been incredibly lean and savory - like you might imagine the red wines of Chablis to taste. But this 2019 is bursting with red fruit and freshness. It's practically jubilant. If you are looking for summer Burgundy, this is it! **IN STOCK**
**These wines will all be ready for pick-up and/or delivery next week (Gruhier excepted)**
From eight different parcels, with an average vine age of sixty years and some vines that go back to 1915. A terrific calling card for this domaine. There is lovely fullish strawberry and dark cherry fruit, with real grip and structure without losing the prettiness of the wine. The finish is long and quite spicy and savory. The oak is exceptionally well-judged and well-handled. Sam Ehrlich
The northernmost edge of Gevrey, 'Champeaux' is high on the hill, and a jigsaw puzzle of terraces and different exposures. The rocky soils make for very precise and long-lived wines.
'Cazetiers' is doubtless one of Gevrey's top 1er Cru sites, sitting adjacent to the fabled 'Clos Saint Jacques,' atop the hill just below the woods. Soils are notoriously poor, a combination of marl and clay with limestone and yields are often small but the wines can be truly outstanding. The Magnien family's parcel has an average vine age of seventy years.
At the southern edge of 'Clos Saint Jacques' is 'Lavaux' and the wine it produces certainly has its neighbor's elegance, if not quite the density. 'Lavaux' is tucked in the combe that cuts through the hillside at Gevrey and stays quite cool, even in warm years, lending freshness and precision.
From vines planted in 1956. This is always a pleasure to drink.
From vines ranging forty to seventy years old, this is an outstanding village wine that truly represents Marsannay. Roughly thirty percent whole bunch.
From two parcels within the vineyard, with shallow rocky limestone at the top and deeper clay lower down.
Vines here range from twenty to seventy years old, planted in red clay and gravel.