Private Collection: Burgundy

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A nice selection of wines from some outstanding producers!

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Pavelot, Jean-Marc 2017 Savigny-Les-Beaune Pre-arrival

More and more I’m growing to appreciate 2017 red Burgs for the their usefulness at the table and user friendliness. Not across the board mind you, but at those domaines where they didn’t prune for volume (not that I blame them) after the traumatic 2016 vintage when things were fraught. For those who carried a sensible number of bunches, the vines gave plenty of fruit that was perfumed and downright agreeable; conversely in many cases where the growers allowed extra bunches and tried to concentrate via green harvest or thru extraction in the cellar, the resulting wines aren’t nearly as charming. And in 2017 Domaine Pavelot seems to have hit the mark with estate fruit. The Savigny-Les-Beaune villages is one such example. The robe is a medium dark ruby. The nose (and palate) are backward on opening, but an hour in the decanter works wonders. Aromatically the bouquet is equal parts plummy, small forest berries, game, rose petals, and savory iodine Savigny tang. The palate flavors raciness over weight and boasts a fine array of forest fruits, cassis, and salty, mineral notes in a package that balances polish with just enough wild character. This is lovely with air (please give it that hour in the decanter) and positively delicious with pan-roasted veal medallions with baby artichokes, mushrooms and roasted potatoes, though a duck breast wouldn’t be unwelcome. And lest I make this out to be insubstantial, there is plenty of wiry structure to stand up to a fine piece of after dinner alpage Beaufort. This is just beginning to open for business and is given Burgundy’s rise in price is a bargain, for sure. What a treat! John McIlwain

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Millot, Jean-Marc 2008 Grands Echezeaux Grand Cru

Don't be put off here by the reputation of 2008 for producing hard, unyielding wines -  Jean-Marc Millot's Grand Echezeaux is in a lovely place. From sixty-year old vines, this is showing dark red and blue fruit, hoisin, sous-bois and that classic spiciness that makes Vosne so compelling. The wood is extremely well-integrated here and if the acid was ever at all out of joint (a concern with some '08s) it is not now - the fruit has sweetened around it and the wine feels beautifully balanced. This has real class and Grand Cru elegance. Sam Ehrlich

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