Planquette (Didier Michaud) 2019 Vin de France (Médoc)

Didier Michaud works 1.7 hectares in the Medoc with 30 to 100 year-old vines on limestone with thin soils of clay with sand and stones.  He has old vines of Merlot Queue Rouge and massale selection Cabernet Sauvignon, farmed organically with just a little compost and shallow plowing. Vinification with wild yeasts, no extraction and no added sulfur (total SO2 less than 2 mg/L). This is one of the most "natural" and deliciously old-fashioned wines of Bordeaux. In the glass, the '19 is rich and plummy in color. The nose is heady, with awesome smells of mint, fresh garden soil, graphite, and pungent  dark flowers. Flavors steer towards ripe forest fruits, like blueberry, blackberry, and cassis. Anise and herbs, with crunchy minerals, add flare to the wine's fruit. Great density, a velvety texture with engaging tannins and bright acidity. Definitely a bold Bordeaux, clocking in at 15% ABV, but so delicious, well structured and drinkable. Yum! David Hatzopoulos

Vionnet, Karim 2020 Beaujolais-Villages

Karim Vionnet, who worked for years with Guy Breton, makes Beaujolais-Villages and Chiroubles with 5 hectares of vines averaging 55 years old. No chemical treatments in the vineyard and no yeasts, sugar or sulfur added in vinification. The Beaujolais-Villages, from vines in Quincie, Beaujeu and Lantigne, receives about 10 mg of sulfur at bottling. As we have watched a lot of our favorite wines from the region creep up in price, the Vionnet is still mercifully affordable and delicious. It's full of pretty high toned strawberry and purple-tinged fruit and lined around the edges with hints of dark flowers and baking spices, etc etc. What is really important with great Beaujolais is that fresh quenching feel that comes when you drain your glass after a bite of fatty ham or sausage with some crusty bread. This is a perfect wine when you need a bottle or four. Sam Ehrlich

Amphores 2020 Condrieu "La Côte"

The Domaine des Amphores Condriueu is 100% massale-selection Viognier from 0.5 hectare on poor granite-based soils at 250 metres on La Côte at Chavanay. The 2020 La Côte has a pale yellow gold robe. The nose offers and intriguing mélange of toasted nuts, salted pineapple, chestnut honey and a hint of spice. The palate shades savory with a granitic spine and roasted peach, and green almond flavors on a sleek (for Condrieu) palate. There’s a pleasing phenolic, stony bitterness closing out the finish. This is a less exotic and exuberant expression, but perfect for the table—think skate with brown butter or roasted chicken with fricasséed morels, rather than drunk as an apéro. John McIlwain

Amphores 2020 Saint-Joseph Blanc 'Altitude 300'

From Veronique, Philippe and Remi Grenier at Domaine des Amphores, certified organic and Biodynamic. 80% Roussanne, 20% Marsanne on granite soils in "Le Monteillet" at 300 metres altitude. The 2020 shows bright gold/bronze color, subtle aromas of hay, apricot, white peach, citrus peel, melon and wet stone. The palate is ripe, dense and elegant with stone fruits and mineral flavors, textured and earthy, finishing with floral white peach, minerals and firm acidity. Serve with a full-flavored ceviche, fish in sauce, white meats, goat cheeses... Lovely wine!  David Lillie

Amphores 2020 IGP des Collines Rhodaniennes Viognier 'Les Iris'

(Arrives 9/21) We love Condrieu, but Viognier from other regions can often be cloying and uninteresting. This example from the Grenier family in Chavanay, however, is elegant and outstanding. It comes from Viognier vines just south of the Condrieu AOC, always tended organically, certified since 2002, and Biodynamic since 2016. The nose shows typical aromas of white flowers and tree fruit underscored by a bracing pineniness and toasty notes. The palate is juicy with notes of pear , green melon and bitter rind uplifted by bright acidity and a long, dry finish. An excellent food wine to be paired with white meats and fish, creamy cheese, grilled vegetables and composed salads. Giselle Hamburg

Amphores 2020 Saint-Joseph "Les Sept Lieux" (9/21)

(Arrives 9/21) The Amphores "7 Lieux" is from vines planted in the 90's, always organic, and from parcels of old vines, converted to organic, in Chavanay, below Condrieu. Philippe and Veronique Grenier have always farmed organically and now they are certified Biodynamic as well, bringing the quality even higher at this wonderful small estate. 50 - 60% de-stemmed, aged 50% in vat, 50% in 2 to 10 year-old demi-muid and foudre. The 2020 "7 Lieus" is a more subtle and earthy wine than the very ripe 2019, showing pretty aromas of violet, black raspberry, plum, a bit smoky and backed with blood and mineral notes. The palate shows a classic Northern Rhone backbone of iron and earth flavors with red currant, black raspberry and black olive. The finish shows firm acidity, mineral flavors and sappy, lingering olive and berry fruit. This will improve with time in the cellar, but is delicious now as well for its authentic and old-fashioned Syrah character. David Lillie

Amphores 2020 Vin de France Sphé-érique

The 2020 Vin de France "Sphé-érique" from the Grenier family in Saint-Joseph is a lovely Syrah from Biodynamic farming that is fantastically delicious! The wine is from young massale-selection Syrah vines on granite with shallow clay soils in the Richagnieux vineyard  at Chavanay, just outside the Saint-Joseph zone. It ferments and ages in a unique round vat. The wine shows  superb very bright pure strawberry, raspberry and blueberry fruit, really lovely, which continue on the palate that is fresh, refreshing and pure with great focus and length. There is minimal added SO2 which allows the fragrant, floral aromas and fruit flavors to be fully expressed. Serve this beautiful Syrah cool with charcuterie, grilled lamb and pork, roast chicken and mild cheeses. It's lovely wine and a testament to the great farming and winemaking by Véronique and Philippe Grenier and family. David Lillie

Amphores 2020 IGP des Collines Rhodaniennes Syrah "Les Iris"

From 100% Syrah in Chavanay, just outside the Saint-Joseph zone, tended organically since planting, in the early 90's, and now certified  Biodynamic  as well. The 2020 "Les Iris" Syrah shows the balance, pretty fruit and slightly lower alcohol of this very good and more "traditional" vintage in the Northern Rhone. The wine shows bright aromas of blackberry and blueberry with hints of stone, mint, smoke and violet, quite fresh and pretty. The palate is balanced and elegant, with cool acidity and lush blackberry and black raspberry fruit, with a fresh earthy finish with mineral, citrus and ripe red and black fruit flavors. Terrific length and depth for a wine at this price. This is a very versatile wine to serve cool with grilled chicken, pork and full-flavored cheeses or to sip by itself, slightly chilled. It's  an authentic and delicious wine and a great value! David Lillie

Habrard, Laurent 2019 Crozes Hermitage Grand Classique Sans Soufre

Presenting a vibrant and delicious Syrah with zero added SO2! The 2019 Habrard Crozes-Hermitage Grand Classique Sans Soufre -  In the glass, the wine shows a deep plum color, with clear violet edges. The nose is a mix of red berries and savory citrus peel, with a dose of healthy earth and salty, firm olives. On the palate, bright cherry fruit provides a platform for flavors of smoke, soy, and ginger, and lighter essences of black pepper and smoke. Medium tannin focused straight down the tongue and lovely acidity offer a refreshing mouthfeel. Really a superb Crozes-Hermitage for current drinking and over the next five years. (33% from Pont de l’Isère (southern zone, alluvial soils), 67% from Erôme, Gervans (northern zone, granite, loess, clay soils), Syrah from 1940s–late 1990s, 95-100% destemmed, 15-20 day vinification in wood vats, no SO2, daily foot punching of the cap, aged in concrete vat, and old barrels, unfined, filtered.)

Dumien Serrette 2020 Vin de France "Le Moulin"

The delicious Dumein-Serrette "Le Moulin" is  from young vines of Syrah on galet stone covered soils next to the Rhône, near Cornas, 40% destemmed, aged in 6-8 year-old 228 liter oak casks.  This is indeed a lovely junior Cornas for current drinking.The calendar says Spring, but the weather says "Smarch." More raw than ramps and rebirth, but I try to drink and eat seasonally where possible and sometimes that’s CSA carrots, French lentils, and pastured pork sausage from Marlow and Daughters. And given that there was an untasted bottle of Syrah from Dumien Serrette it seems high time to check in. Nicolas Serrette works organically in Cornas and those wines are not just delicious, but a tremendous value displaying more gutsy old-school Cornas character than showing a longing to make Chambolle or Fleurie. And the 2020 ‘Moulin’ is cut from the same sturdy cloth—think corduroy rather than linen—and balances pure Syrah fruit with a savory mineral core. The robe has a dark ruby, hinting a purple hue. The nose offers a pretty array of wild violet, blue and black fruit aromas, with just enough grilled meat and Tellicherry peppercorn to place this near Cornas. The palate is similarly rough and tumble (but by no means coarse) and carries fine red fruit and iron/gamy flavors on a long and expansive finish. The incisively savory, mineral spine, juicy blue and black fruits, and mouthwatering acidity make this a prime choice for grilled meats, pan-roasted sausage, mushroom ragu with polenta, or even cassoulet for the ambitious home cook. This sings with sausage and lentils, but with an aged hunk of Mimoulette it’s an aria. Well worth a look. John McIlwain

Pignard 2016 Morgon

Arrives 10/5 (Our note from 2018) We're very proud to have the lovely Morgons of Roland Pignard at Chambers Street. From high-elevation 50 to 60 year-old vines in the commune of Saint-Joseph north-west of Villié-Morgon,  in sandy clay soils over granite in the lieu-dit "les Charmes."  Biodynamic farming, no SO2 until a minimal dose before bottling, with a relatively short period of carbonic-maceration. The wine shows a bright medium red color with elegant aromas of black raspberry, black cherry and earth with rose and violet. The palate is deep and ripe with firm acidity but stays light on its feet at 12.5% alcohol, with black and red fruits and mineral flavors that continue in the long finish. The "Tradition" cuvée is slightly rounder and deeper, but there is little difference between the wines in this super vintage for the Pignards. Serve cool with chicken and pork dishes, and put a few bottles away for five years as well. Highly recommended.  David Lillie

Smith-Chapel 2020 Julienas Vayolette

Michele Smith-Chapel & her husband David Chapel are former sommeliers and restaurant legends - she the former wine director of Brooklyn Fare and he the son of Alain Chapel, one of the titans of la nouvelle cuisine. Since 2016, they have been living the Beaujolais life, making wine first with the help of the Lapierre family and now on their own. They have firmly established themselves as first-rate vignerons and this 2020 Julienas is a prime example - full of red and blue fruit, sassafras and a cutting salty edge.

Mortier 2019 Bourgueil Les Pins

Fabien and Cyril Boisard make beautiful natural wines on their small estate in Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil. They practice organic and biodynamic farming with a great diversity of plants and trees among the vines and their vinifications are without additives until a small addition of SO2 if needed. The Bourgueil "Les Pins" is 100% Cabernet Franc from approximately 50 year-old vines in a 2 hectare parcel that has always been famed organically. The soil is deep clay over friable limestone - a cool spot that is harvested late. The 2019 is a lovely wine showing deep aromas of ripe black fruits, licorice, spice and earth. The palate is silky and supple with terrific length - just a great Bourgueil to drink now, a bit cool, or after eight to ten years of cellaring.

Chevalerie 2018 Bourgueil Diptyque "Franco de Port"

 The Chevalerie Bourgueil Diptyque is from vines located on 1 to 2 meters deep sand and gravel intermixed with clay soils on an old alluvial terrace close to the Loire, at the foot of the coteau. This terroir  gives supple, fruit driven Cabernet without being green or too simple thanks to the Biodynamic farming of the domain. If you don’t believe cabernet franc can be delicious, juicy, savoury yet fruity, just try this wine!  2018 was a beautifully ripe and well-balanced vintage for Loire reds - The 2018 Diptyque shows a deep black/red color with aromas of forest floor, black cherry liqueur, black raspberry, bitter chocolate and licorice with bright hints of herbs and citrus peel. The palate is bright, sapid and supple wth dense flavors of earth, black fruits , anise, cocoa and chalky minerals. The finish is long, with lingering black fruits, minerals and earth with very firm citrusy acids and cocoa at the end. Wow, just a delicious and beautiful young Cabernet Franc! Tannins are really gentle yet present, with a licorice root feel. Even if it is the vin de soif, you can drink it over a couple of days - it will only get better! Keep it up to 5 years with no problem. Serve with charcuterie, pork chops or roast chicken and be happy! 100% Cabernet Franc. Pascaline Lepeltier/David Lillie

Bellivière 2019 Coteaux du Loire Rouge-Gorge

Le Rouge-Gorge is one of the most regular, over-delivering, delicious, consistent cuvées of Pineau d'Aunis you can find in the Loire. It is in other words a benchmark for what this under-valued grape (not of course at CSW) is capable of. In the talented, wise hands of Eric & Clément Nicolas, the Pineau d'Aunis shows its delicacy yet its ability to be layered, structured, terroir-driven. Being  high in rotundone and sensitive to geosmin, it is easy to think Aunis is just a light peppery, earthy red, or rosé. But it can be so much more, floral, herbal, wild, with orange zest, and a refined tannic structure. When yields, farming, vinifications are in check, it works, and in fact Eric & Clément don't hesitate to do 4 weeks of maceration with foulage, and long aging from these old vines definitely showing what the grape is capable of.  Enjoy it now in a Burgundy glass - you can slightly chill it - or keep it up to 10 years no problem. Play of course with the tannins, the acidity and the pepperiness for the pairings: some wild boar, duck or bison charcuterie, smoked eels, some over-roasted pulled pork would be great, but also with a spicy lentil stew

Philemon 2019 Gaillac Croix de la Bouscairé

In recent years, we have watched the popularity of regions like the Jura, the Loire and even the Savoie skyrocket, places like Gaillac stay mercifully undiscovered. This tucked away corner of Southwest France is a source of incredible value, full of tireless farmers doing the hard work to produce terrific wine. Domaine Philemon has been making wine for seven generations, growing varieties unseen almost anywhere outside of their appellations. This 2019 bottling of Duras is an unbelievable bottle of wine for seventeen bucks. There is dark fruit around the edges but the core of the wine is quite savory - purple flowers, dark earth and mineral notes and a little touch of something meaty. There is real detail and refinement when one looks closely. Certainly a great companion for cassoulet or daube with lamb. Sam Ehrlich

Bera 2020 Bianco Piemonte Arcese

From an estate that dates back to 1785, the Bera family farm organically and make wine in a low-interventionist manner. This white is made from Favorita, Arneis, Cortese, and Sauvignon Blanc. The 2020 is ripe and complex with lovely aromas of lime-flower and honeysuckle, with white and yellow fruits and almond. The palate is supple and pretty with the lush fruit balanced with refreshing acidity, and a bit of spritz that makes it go down easy...  Really a lovely and versatile wine that is a delicious aperitif and will pair well with fish and chicken in sauce, Asian foods and mild cheeses. 

Bera 2020 Moscato d'Asti Canelli

100 % Muscat Petit Grains from a beautiful organic vineyard, fermented with wild yeasts, minimal SO2 is used. We sell this Moscato d'Asti because it's one of the best we've ever tasted – a wine with finesse and complexity; layers of apricot, peach, honey, balanced by clean lime-like acidity. Most of the competition is dull and insipid by comparison. The fact that this organic wine is made by some of the nicest people you can imagine has nothing to do with our selecting it for your delectation...

Bulli nv Colli Piacentini Ortrugo Frizzante

This frizzante is 100% Ortrugo. A grape once used mostly as a blending companion to the more fancied Malvasia, it is known for articulated acidity, thus making it a perfect foundation for sparkling and semi-sparkling wines. In recent years, it has come out of the shadows and is frequently used for single-varietal wines, mostly coming from the region of Colli Piacentini in Emilia-Romagna, known for its limestone soil. The Bulli Ortrugo begins with vines of 10-50 years of age. Guyot trained. The grapes are picked in September and October. Native yeasts are used to ferment the wine dry, and after waiting over the winter months, grape must from the autumn harvest is added to induce secondary fermentation. This, of course, gives the wine a sparkle. Like all wines from Bulli, it sees no added SO2. When first poured, before getting air, the nose is crushed and chalky limestone. Released soon after are aromas of savory/sweet Jordan almonds, nectarines and blossoms, along with a trace of that original, almost smokey, minerality. The palate is salty, with flavors of firm pear, sage, and a very long, dry finish of fresh lemon zest. The color is that of homemade lemon-water. Contrary to what is said about Ortrugo, I didn't find this wine incredibly high in acid. Well balanced flavors and structure here. Paired very well with Friday night sushi. David Hatzopoulos

Lodi Corazza 2020 Colli Bolognesi Barbera Frizzante

This effervescent Barbera is one of a kind! Just a little fizzy, the wine is perfect for denser holiday meals - like root vegetables and roasted white and red meats. In the glass, it has a dark ruby color. The nose is fresh, though full of dark fruits (cherry, blackberry, and small plum). There are aromas of birch, smoke, and savory orange peel. The palate has blueberries and raspberry, mixed with slightly bitter green herbs - before finishing with a light essence of strawberry. High acid on the tongue, and just a little sparkle, make this wine incredibly drinkable. You’ll want this in stock all winter long!

Cipolla 2020 Vino Bianco (Sicily) Passofonduto Solfare

A very recent addition for Louis/Dressner, this is truly exciting, and one of the best and most intriguing Sicilian white wines we've tasted - further evidence that white wine from Italy is worth our attention on a level that goes far beyond the everyday. "Solfare" refers to naturally-occuring sulfur in local soils (there were sulfur mines in the region in the distant past; the finished wine is supported by very small S02 additions). Solfare is a blend of Grillo and Cataratto, with 5% from local grapes that have not been identified. This sounds pretty basic, but the wine has complexity that is more than the sum of its parts. This wine, golden in color, has a rich nose. Aromas of pungent white flowers, savory apple, dried apricots mix wafts of smoke and spice. The palate is round and herbal, with stone fruit, yellow cherry, salt and candied lemon before a finish of black tea and golden raisins. Excellent structure, with medium acidity and just a touch of tannic grip.

Cardedu 2020 Vermentino di Sardegna Nuo

Coming from vines in San Vito, Sardinia, planted to the region's grumbling granite soils, mixed with red-tinted quartz. Vine age is 10 years. Grapes harvested in late August and early September. In the cellar, the fermentation is natural, in stainless steel, including 6-8 hours of skins contact. The wine ages in 1950s concrete tanks before being bottled without filtration. This Vermentino has an incredibly special nose. A bouquet of herbs (basil, thyme, rosemary), with sliced, chilled yellow tomato slices and shaved parmigiana. The palate has tart, small yellow apples, lemon zest, and more green herbs. The structure is bright, with a swish of delicious, tender texture - ending with a long salty finish peaked with great acid. David Hatzopoulos

Romeo del Castello 2019 Etna Rosso Allegracore

The Allegracore bottling from Romeo del Castello is 100% Nerello Mascalese from the younger part of their vineyard, planted in 2004. The wine is fermented in 5000L stainless vats for 20 days. The wine ages for a year afterwards, also in stainless. An elegant and approachable Etna Rosso, it has been a Chambers Street favorite since the 2009 vintage!  In the glass, the wine shows a very clean red cherry in color. The nose is a little grassy, with light volcanic smoke and a savory aroma of fresh dark petals. The palate has a mineral driven core, wrapped in flavors of green herbs and delicious cherry fruit. The finish displays sparky, loamy earth. The mouthfeel is bright with acidity and structured with medium tannin. Another great vintage of Allegracore! David Hatzopoulos

I Fabbri 2020 VDT Bianco Casole

A savory white from Tuscany, this Trebbiano and Malvasia blend is a clean lemon color in the glass. The nose has dried citrus peel, green herbs and chamomile, with a hint of spice and grassiness. Flavor-wise, the wine is warm, with apple and white pepper. There is a bitterness, like green tea, on the mid-palate before revealing a softness and richness on the finish. A substantial mouthfeel, this wine calls for heavily herbed roast chicken or pork, or even red meats.

Schaefer, Willi 2020 Mosel Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett (AP03)

Given the small size of their holdings (4.2 hectare), Will Schaefer has an outsized reputation due to their mastery of pradikat Mosel Rieslings. Crystalline, pure,and filigreed are adjectives apt descripors and for those who love them, soulful often comes to mind and  Schaefer's 2020 Graacher Domprobst does not disappoint. Comprised of old vines growing in Devonian slate over water retaining clay soils, Domprobst is pungently mineral and perhaps a touch broader than its sister vineyard Graacher Himmelreich. And in the hands of the capable Christoph Schaefer has produced a number of delicious and ageaworthy wines despite the vagaries of the vintage. The 2020 Graacher Domprobst Kabinett offers a lifted nose of honeysuckle, spearmint, cardamom, and flint. The palate is concentrated and mouth-filling, but by no means heavy, with flinty stoniness framing pretty red apple, lime skin, and a kiss on sweetness on the almost creamy finish. With time in the glass, the wine gains structure and a brisk thread of acidity emerges buoying the ripe fruit and adding a sense of freshness. Truly lovey Kabinett and a prime candidate for cellaring. Very good now, but this has the potential to be excellent. John McIlwain

Meinklang 2016 Neusiedlersee Konkret Weiss

The 2016 Meinklang Konkret Weiss is made from Roter Traminer, Gelber Traminer and Gewürtztraminer. 28 day maceration on the skins in concrete eggs allowing some oxidation, aged 12 months sur-lie.  A unique skin contact/orange wine with mild tannins that will accompany fish and white meats in sauce, full-flavored cheeses.

Heidi Schröck 2020 Burgenland Furmint Trocken

Heidi Schröck took over her family winery in 1983, in the historic village of Rust situated in the province of Burgenland about 5 miles from the Hungarian border. In 2003 Heidi was awarded “Falstaff Vintner of the Year”, making her one of only a handful of women to obtain this distinction. She re-introduced historic varietals such as muscat-lunel and furmint from Hungary while continuing to work with more classic Austrian varietals. The 2020 Furmint is explosive with aromas of wet rocks, citrus, white flowers and a touch of honeydew. The palate is electric with high acid and minerality in spades, a slight spritz with flavors of citrus, green apple and honeydew. A very long finish, extremely elegant yet powerful. For lovers of Riesling and Chenin Blanc. Giselle Hamburg

Zahel Gemischter Satz 2020 Vienna Mauer

A field blend from within the city limits of Vienna. Mauer is the southern most neighborhood of Vienna's amphitheater-like, historic vineyard area. A mix of 6 grapes (Gruner Veltliner, Riesling, Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder, Chardonnay and Traminer) harvested from their Ried Preussen and Ried Weissleiten vineyards which are biodynamically certified. The grapes thrive at this high elevation...330 meters above sea level in a distinct soil type called Flysch (sandstone on top of limestone bedrock). The grapes are hand harvested in one day and co-fermented in stainless steel. The grapes undergo 24 hours of cool maceration before the juice is pressed and allowed to ferment naturally with only native yeasts. Before bottling, the wine is aged for 8 months on its fine lees without batonnage. It is a bright, elegant, mineral version of this classic Viennese and immensely drinkable wine.  Winemonger

Stilianou 2018 Crete Great Mother Red Mandilaria

 Giannis Stilianou and his son tend 3 hectares of indigenous Cretan grapes near Heraklion, the capital of the dry, sun-beaten, Greek island of Crete. The Great Mother Red is a wine made with Mandilaria, an intensely dark and tannic grape native to the Aegean Isles. In order to produce a more lightly colored and delicate wine Giannis macerates the juice on the skins for only one day - yielding an aromatic and intensely flavored wine that is eminently drinkable. With aromatic notes of forest herbs, salt, and red fruit, the palate is bright, clean and fresh with red cherry and salted plum notes. Definitely chileable like a Beaujolais or Schiava. This was great with lamb burgers. Ben Fletcher

Rodez, Eric NV Champagne Brut Grand Cru Ambonnay Les Crayeres

While Ambonnay is on the map of any Champagne lover worth her salt, beyond the grand cru status there's an array of serious, if colorful, vignerons doing the work in vines in addition to the cellar to craft wines of terroir. Benoit Marguet, Coutier, beloved retiree Marie-Noelle Ledru, and 8th-generation winemaker and onetime mayor of the village, Eric Rodez. And hizzoner Monsieur Rodez makes wines that not only embody the power and elegance of Ambonnay, but also offer nuanced studies of earth and chalk. The current release is comprised of  21% 2017, 21% 2016, 15% 2015, with a further 43% of reserve wine boasting aromas of pear skin and orange oil with dusty chalk notes notes. The palate is broad and verging on muscular with stone fruit and quince flavors given lift and drive with mouthwatering acidity and dimension with burnished character from  the good portion of reserve wines. But the dazzling burst of energy on the rising finish indicates a wine clearly made in the vineyard. Fine juice, indeed! John McIlwain

Gatinois 2012 Grand Cru Aÿ Brut (Disg. 10/21)

Champagne is oft-maligned as wine of flash and marketing rather than a wine of substance and yes Virginia, terroir. And while there is a bit more winemaking involved than simply harvest, press, and bottle--sulfur optional, our favorite growers make wines that express vintage and village and soil quite precisely, thank you. One such domaine is 12th generation grower Louis Gatinois from the Grand Cru village of Aÿ. The Pinot-dominant 2012 millésime offers a fine example of the vintage (structured and ripe) as well as the village (equal parts concentrated, mineral, and sophisticated) with spicy red fruit and pungent and nearly salt soil notes lending gravitas to the polish on a driving mid-palate and lengthy, sapid finish. This is just nascently complex and will gain from time in the cellar. A beautiful bottle and a bravura expression of Aÿ terroir. John McIlwain

Clos Lentiscus 2018 Penedes Perill Blanc

This Xarel-lo from Manel of Clos Lentiscus is a beautiful example of no-sulfur wine-making from the Garraf Mountains in Catalunya. The vines here are around 85 years old, and lend a considerable amount of complexity and length to the wine.It's got fantastic mineral character and lovely density from extended aging on the lees. Decant or uncork a bit before serving, as the wine opens up quite a bit and evolves from crispy and stony to rounder and more viscous with some air. Truly a beautiful wine to drink over several hours.  -EL

Rubén Díaz 2019 Sierra de Gredos Cebreros Paso de Cebra Blanco

This is all Albillo Real, aged in used barrels and glass demijohns. There is a nice combination of sharpness and weight, keeping the wine chiseled, with nice acidity, but also providing body, which broadens the pairing possibilities. Some herbs and flowers on the nose, almond skins on the palate, a classy white from the Gredos! 

Ruben Diaz 2018 Sierra de Gredos Cebreros Fiorella Albillo Real

Always a treat, the Fiorella is Ruben Diaz's groovy skin contact wine. Not at all an attempt to make an "orange wine," this is more about the interplay of texture from skin contact and aromatics from short aging under flor. The wine is made from Albillo Real, fermented on the skins for 20 days, giving the impression of white nectarine skins, and the stone fruit to match. This is followed by aging under flor (the veil of yeast that protects the wine from oxidization), giving the wine subtle oxidative notes. A bit of structure, but mostly fresh and balanced. A lovely, textured white that should pair well with seafood, grilled veggies, salads or poultry.

Luis Perez 20 VDT Cadiz Blanco 'El Muelle de Olaso'

El Muelle is a delicious, unfortified Palomino, from Luis Pérez, who started his winery in Andalucia in 2002 with the intention of making unfortified wines in the Sherry region. Pérez is using old botas (VERY large barrels) for aging, but not former sherry barrels as is common in the area. For this wine, he does allow a small amount of flor, for a maximum of 3 months, as the layer of yeast that forms on top of a partially filled barrel will eat away at some of the glycerin in the wine, making the wine fresher and leaner. We are fans of good, unfortified Palomino, and also huge fans of a good value, so we're obviously delighted to have this wine in stock! Showing a slightly petrol nose, with stone fruit, and medioum weight. If you're a fan of unfortified Palomino, don't miss out on this. -EL

Palacios, Alvaro 2019 Priorat Gratallops

Grattalops is one of the 9 sub-appelation villages of Priorat, reocognized for the superiority of the terroir, elevation, and exposition. Alvaro Palacios focuses here on north-facing vineyards and the elegance of this wine surely reveals the influence. This is almost exclusively Garnacha, with notes of kalamata olives and soil. There is elegance and power, dark fruit, spice, leather, everything we love about great Priorat. Fermentation is in cement and aging is in used barrels, which seems a logical choice for the site, and clearly allows the terroir and the mature flavors of the Grenache to really shine. A memorable bottle of Priorat, on par with a fine Chateauneuf du Pape. 

Ruben Diaz 2018 Sierra de Gredos Cebreros Paso de Cebra

Paso de Cebra is a blend from 7 vineyards of old Garnacha vines planted on high altitude (~1100 meters) granitic sandy soils in the mountains west of Madrid. Always a favorite of the staff, the 2018 doesn't disappoint! Fermentation is light-handed, over 20 days, all de-stemmed. Aging is in cement. All of the trademarks of the Gredos terroir are here, with bright acidity, red fruit, and herbs, over a cooling granitic minerality. Drink this wine slightly cool with anything off the grill. Great for barbecues, which are in the near future finally!

Ruben Diaz 2018 Sierra de Gredos Cebreros Cuesta del Tejar Garnacha

The Cuesta del Tejar is a special red from Ruben Diaz, showcasing the power and balance of the Gredos. Unlike the easy-going Paso de Cebra which is all destemmed then aged in cement, Ruben includes 15% whole cluster here, and aging is in old barrels. Peppery notes, funk, and spunk. All in all a more substantial wine in every regard.

Luis Perez 2018 VDT Tinto Cadiz 'El Triangulo'

Luis Perez makes wines in Jerez mostly, and is a partner in the La Riva project with Ramiro Ibanez. 'El Triangulo' is a red he produces from the local Tintilla grape in Cadiz. Also known as Tintilla de Rota, because it is almost solely found in and around the town of Rota,  this grape is apparently related to Graciano (from Rioja/Navarra), and is known for its pigment and acidity. It produces a dark and dense looking wine which surprises on the palate with lift and freshness. The vines here are in Balbaina, on chalky soils. A delicious, dark red, with blackberry notes, and medium body. Perfect for a summer BBQ!

Antonio Lopes Ribeiro 2019 (Casa de Mouraz) Vinho Verde "Biotite"

From the lovely couple at Casa de Mouraz, Biotite is mostly Loureiro (with 10% Arinto) from certified organic vineyards in the Vinho Verde region, grown on granitic soils in the valley of the Lima River. This is a lovely mineral driven white, and a real eyeopener to the potential of the Vinho Verde wines. Most people just know the spritzy low alcohol whites (from early harvested usually under-ripe grapes), but this is a real wine, made from mature fruit and allowed to ferment naturally for a different kind of expression. Enjoy on its own on a sunny afternoon or with seafood, chicken, vegetables, sushi, salads, and cheeses. Stone fruit, salinity, and good concentration on the mid-palate.   ~Eben Lillie

Quinta Cova da Raposa 2019 Minho Alvarinho - Sem Sulfitos

From one of the first certified organic estates in Portugal, this is a natural Alvarinho, with zero addition of sulfites. In all ways this behaves like a classic Alvarinho, with great acidity, and stony character. Reminsicent of Muscadet, or Albarinos from Rias Baixas (same grape), but with a bit more almond and petrol. Should pair well with herbed fish, poultry, or garlicy dishes.

Ramilo 2019 Colares Malvasia

From two hectares of rare and ungrafted vines in Colares, about one kilometer from the Atlantic. The soil here is comprised of clay, under about a meter of sand. The vines are trained low to the sand, permitting longer maturation of the fruit, while the light and heat reflected by the sand raises the fairly low temperature. After an October harvest period, 50% of the wine is fermented in stainless steel, while the other 50% is fermented on the skins in an open air lagar for seven days. This skin contact gives the Malvasia gorgeous notes of orange blossom, sea spray, plush flowers and salt. The palate continues these notes, along with the classic Colares profile of minerality, salinity, crisp acidity and tart citrus. This is one of our favorite wines, made for a dish like seafood stews, salt cod, and shrimp tempura.

Duckman (Maria Joao Pato) 2020 Vinho Rose 'Blablablabla'

Maria João Pato is... Duckman! Though busy making wines with her father, Luis Pato, Maria João also finds time to experiment and produce an exciting lineup of wines under the Duckman moniker.Blablabla (yes that is the name!) is a super juicy dark rosé of Baga. It drinks practically like a Blanc de Noirs, but clearly there is some deep color here. Get some now in anticipation of warm weather, or have with fried or salty foods, or no food at all. A lot of fun in a bottle!

Mouraz, Casa de 2016 Dão Tinto

Sara Dionísio and António Lopes Ribeiro are at the forefront of organic (certified) and biodynamic wine growing in Portugal. And the wines keep getting better and better! This red is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Alfrocheiro, Jaen, Água Santa, Tinta Pinheira and Baga from multiple vineyards planted on granitic soils in the Dão, fermented with native yeasts and raised in neutral French barrels for 8 months. Medium-full bodied. 

Mateus Nicolau de Almeida 2019 O Clarete 'O Tinto Perfeito'

This is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Barroca, with a small percentage of Malvasia. Mateus Nicolau de Almeida is involved in many winemaking projects, from the Trans-Douro Express wines, to collaborations with other winemakers in Portugal. This special bottling was made in a friendly style, with label carrying on the tradition from the beloved 'Perfect Red' that Chris Brockway (Broc Cellars) produced last yet. It is a Tinto Perfeito in its own right, medium-full bodied, with some grip but overall very accessible.