Private Collection: French Wine

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Huet 2005 Vouvray Clos du Bourg Sec

This seemed to be the richest of the 3 dry wines (13.2 % alc. and 6 grams of residual sugar) and had extraordinary material and length. This will benefit from long-term aging. (Joe Dougherty will open his in 2060) DL

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Huet 2009 Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Sec

*This wine is in the warehouse and will not be available for pick-up or delivery until after Labor Day.Usually the most forward and appropriate for early drinking, this wine is beautifully balanced with lovely mineral infused apple/quice fruit and a long finish. Drink it young if you must, but put some away if you can...DL.

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Huet 2010 Vouvray Clos du Bourg Sec

"The 2010 Clos du Bourg Sec is another absolutely brilliant wine in the making, as it soars from the glass in a blaze of apple, lemon, a touch of pineapple, bee pollen, stunningly complex minerality and a pungent topnote of white flowers. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and absolutely rock solid at the core, with seamless balance, brisk acids and stunning length and grip on the zesty and laser-like finish. This is still very, very early days for this magnificent wine, but the balance here is so perfect that the wine is a great joy to drink in its youth. Like the 2010 Le Mont Sec, I would fully expect this great wine to shut down in a few years’ time and hibernate for a solid decade, after which it will be pure magic for another fifty or more years! This is a great, great young vintage of Clos du Bourg Sec! 2020-2080."

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Huet 2012 Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Sec

Always a personal favorite, Haut Lieu Sec is one of the more approachable young Vouvrays from this now famous Domaine. From south-facing vineyards on rich clay and limestone soil, the wine is raised in a combination of tank and old foudres with native yeast fermentations. A delicate vintage for this wine, the nose offers pretty notes of honeysuckle and wildflower honey, white, fleshy stone fruits and lemon curd. The palate is almost totally dry and, again, quite lacy and fresh for Huet with flavors of apple and honey. Likely a better candidate to drink now than to hold, this wine sings alongside fresh scallops simply prepared. -msb

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Huet 2020 Vouvray Le Mont Sec

13.5 % alc, 6 g/l RS, 4.09 g/l total acidity, pH 3.12

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Raffault, Olga 1989 Chinon Les Picasses

1989, the first of two dry, sunny seasons, is the best vintage for Loire reds since 1947. With terrific ripeness, the wines also had firm acidities leading to beautiful balance and the ability to age for twenty to thirty years and more. We haven't tasted this wine recently but it remains our favorite vintage for "Les Picasses," with 1990, 1996, 1997, 2002, 2009 and 2010 following behind, though of course we like them all...

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Brunel - Les Cailloux 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Centenaire

Centenaires: Grenache 80%, Syrah 10%, Mourvedre 10%, from vines 30-100 years old; aged in a combination of large old barrels, and 1-3 year old barriques. Bottled unfiltered.

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Brunel - Les Cailloux 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Centenaire

Centenaires: Grenache 80%, Syrah 10%, Mourvedre 10%, from vines 30-100 years old; aged in a combination of large old barrels, and 1-3 year old barriques. Bottled unfiltered. 

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Marcoux 2001 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes

Vieilles Vignes: Grenache 98%, + 2% Cinsault and white varieties; aged 16-20 months in cement and partly in barriques; bottled unfiltered

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Marcoux 2005 Chateauneuf-du-Pape

Chateauneuf: Grenache 80%, Mourvedre 10%, 5% each Syrah and Cinsault; aged 16-18 months in a combination of concrete, large oak, with the Syrah and Mourvedre in barriques; bottled unfiltered.

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Vieux Telegraphe 1990 Chateauneuf du Pape

My first visit to Vieux Telegraphe was on my birthday in 1993, and I bought two cases of the 1990. I therefore admit that I have a sentimental attachment to the wine (and a couple of bottles left in the cellar), but I’ve always loved the wine on it’s own merits, and still think that his Majesty RP has given the wine an unfair shake (and a mere 89 points). It’s true that Vieux Telegraphe has never gone for the sure-to-score-a-zillion-points-blockbuster. The house style is much more restrained and elegant than the recent top-scoring, Port-like monsters of Chateauneuf; by contrast Vieux Telegraphe transmits the essence of stony Chateauneuf terroir along with old-vine Grenache and Syrah without overwhelming your palate or your dinner. As with many other Grands Vins, I happen to like Chateauneuf best with some serious age; this wine is an unequivocal treat. JW

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