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Ok, let's cut right through all the frippery and to-do. Chablis might be our favorite thing to drink and to sell and there is just never enough. So we were thrilled to be offered a really hefty parcel of some 2019s from Domaine de L'Enclos—hopefully enought to make everyone reading today happy.
L'Enclos is a young estate—the first vintage was only 2016—but Romain and Damien Bouchard are old hands. They made wine for years at their family estate, Domaine Pascal Bouchard, and under their negociant header, DRB. They are fifth-generation wine growers, with all the accumulated knowledge that comes with it. They sold the family name and winery midway through the previous decade but retained just shy of thirty hectares of prime vineyard land, and founded Domaine de L'Enclos. They established a new winery in an old château in the middle of town and promptly set about getting organic certification for the estate.
When I visited in 2018, it was clear that these two brothers were headed for the big time. The wines are generally quite crystalline and tasting across a wide range of parcels (they have five Premier Crus and three Grand Crus) was a vivid lesson in terroirs, even in a difficult vintage like 2016. Fermentations are all done in steel tank here, and though the Premier Crus and Grand Crus are aged in barrel, there is no new oak glossing over the chalk.
The two wines on offer today are a pair of Premiers Crus from the west side of the river in Chablis, Vau de Vey and Beauroy. They are both very much at the northern extremity of the appellation and though probably not more than than a kilometer from one another, the wines could not be more different. Vau de Vey sits in above a small valley, just west of Vaillons and faces nearly due east. The wine feels particularly pristine and chiseled, the delicate citrus fruit subsumed by the limestone.
By contrast, Beauroy sticks out, the tip of a hill jutting out above the river and facing much more south-southeast. The wine is justifiably rounder and weightier, the chalk jousting with a lovely orange oil/white peach character. The acidity in both wines is plentiful and the feeling of dry extract leads me to think that should one resist drinking them immediately. Though they are genuinely delicious, they will develop and improve over the next five to seven years.
There is little left to say other than you should buy these wines. The next couple of years are going to be difficult for Chablis lovers, as the frosts of 2021 decimated most vineyards to the point that there are plenty of growers who lost 80-100% of their crop. What there is will end up considerably more expensive. So take advantage now. To sweeten the deal - TODAY ONLY - if you purchase three bottles of each we will apply the case discount of ten percent. Please don't dawdle as we won't be offered any more of these.
**Please note that this is a PRE-ARRIVAL OFFER. Wines will be in stock next week**
From a parcel of 40 year-old vines, this is lovely, satisfying Chablis, with ripe fullish yellow fruit in the attack and mid-palate and forceful minerality in the finish. This is a great candidate for mid-term aging (the 2016, backward upon release, grew into a beautiful swan with five years in the bottle). Sam Ehrlich
From vines planted in 1989, this is all understatement, with beautiful crisp lemon fruit and palate-staining limestone character, with a bit of ocean spritz that cries out for oysters. Do it. Go ahead. You know you want to. Sam Ehrlich