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It's become increasingly difficult to write superlatives about the Domaine Baudry Chinon "Le Clos Guillot," as each vintage since 2014 has been superb in its own way: 2014 - light, pretty, perfectly balanced; 2015 - round, generous, ripe; 2016 - dense, structured for aging; 2017 - classic, earthy, beautiful red fruits - 2018, a vintage the Baudrys describe as "magnificent," rather atypical and full-bodied, and now 2019, another beautiful year for the Clos Guillot, elegant, savory and perfectly balanced.
An assessment from Matthieu Baudry: "Clos Guillot 2019 : Warm millésime but fresh wine with very elegant tannins. Even if the wine is a bit shy aromatically, it is one of the greatest Clos Guillot we have made. Not as big as CG 2018 but great potential and a lot of finesse. The second half of June, as well as July and August, were extremely hot and dry, with temperatures often over 40 °C. Fortunately, the vines benefited from some long-awaited rainfall around the end of September. The grape-harvest started on September 30 and lasted until October 8. The reds, though not quite as spicy as the 2018s, are generous and redolent of red fruit and violets. The savory character of the 2019 reds seduced us from the onset. The tannins are well-integrated, and the wines are remarkably balanced."
Le Clos Guillot is a beautiful south-east facing vineyard, just east of the town of Chinon, above the Clos de l'Olive and adjacent to Le Chêne Vert. The upper slope of the parcel is clay over limestone and the vines are relatively young, planted from 1993 to 2000. (Some franc de pied vines are still alive in the sandier section) Fermentation is in wooden cuves, with 12 months of aging in three to ten year-old barriques, and 9 - 12 additional months in unlined cement vats. We have been buying this wine since its first production in 2000 - it's one of the most elegant and Burgundian of Chinons!
The white wines of Domaine Baudry seem to get better every year - more fine and chalky than the whites of Saumur, with "La Croix Boissée" in particular rivalling the finest Vouvrays in its crystalline elegance. The "Domaine" comes from young vines in several parcels on the clay/limestone coteaux, while "La Croix Boissée" Blanc is from vines planted in 1994 and 2004 at the top of the vineyard in almost bare, eroded limestone - a great terroir for Chenin Blanc!.
From Mathieu Baudry: "Croix Boissée Blanc 2020 : Classical expression of Chinon Blanc with less alcohol than 2019 and nice acidity at the end. No residual sugar. Malo done as usual. La Croix Boissée Blanc 2020 shows like many vintages those nice notes of anise or fennel with a hint of white apricots. The wine is not big but still salty/mineral. It makes you salivate and calls you for another glass." This has become one of the finest Chenins of the Loire with beautiful expression of the limestone soil in this lighter vintage. Very limited quantity available.
Les Grézeaux 2019 - what a lovely wine! And still available! "... shows a dark black/purple color with quite floral blackberry and strawberry aromas, with a bit of earth, spice and citrus. Very silky and supple on the palate with deep stony black fruits, meaty, chalky and long. Good acidity in the finish with graphite and velvety black fruits, quite elegant, very sapid and long. This is a lovely "Les Grézeaux" and is highly recommended for early drinking or ten to twenty years of cellaring."
Cuvée Domaine 2019 - I love this wine in every vintage and I love opening them after about ten years of aging. The 2019 is particularly pure and expressive, a blend of 75% from a parcel in St. Louans, where the thin clay soils over limestone give earthy well-structured wines, with 25% from gravel soils near Cravant, giving supple fruit and freshness. Organic farming, wild-yeast fermentation, aging in 5 to 10 year-old wooden vats and cement with almost no added SO2.
2020 Les Granges - This "basic" cuvée from Bernard and Matthieu has gotten more and more "serious" as the vines age, giving a wine that is delightful to drink young, but that shows surprising complexity and mineral character as well. The wine shows aromas of ripe raspberry and bluberry with hints of earth, stone, pepper and herbs. The palate is quite mineral with firm stony acids underlying lush berry fruits, and is beautifully balanced at 12.5% alcohol.
Baudry 2019 Chinon Le Clos Guillot
"Clos Guillot 2019 : Warm millésime but fresh wine with very elegant tannins. Even if the wine is a bit shy aromatically, it is one of the greatest Clos Guillot we have made. Not as big as CG 2018 but great potential and a lot of finesse. The second half of June, as well as July and August, were extremely hot and dry, with temperatures often over 40 °C. Fortunately, the vines benefited from some long-awaited rainfall around the end of September. The grape-harvest started on September 30 and lasted until October 8. The reds, though not quite as spicy as the 2018s, are generous and redolent of red fruit and violets. The savory character of the 2019 reds seduced us from the onset. The tannins are well-integrated, and the wines are remarkably balanced."Le Clos Guillot is a beautiful south-east facing vineyard, just east of the town of Chinon, above the Clos de l'Olive and adjacent to Le Chêne Vert. The upper slope of the parcel is clay over limestone and the vines are relatively young, planted from 1993 to 2000. (Some franc de pied vines are still alive in the sandier section) Fermentation is in wooden cuves, with 12 months of aging in three to ten year-old barriques, and 9 - 12 additional months in unlined cement vats.This is a wine for the cellar, best 2026 - 2045.
Baudry 2018 Chinon Le Clos Guillot (11/3)
(Our last few cases arrive on Tuesday, 10/12/21) Le Clos Guillot is a beautiful south-east facing vineyard, just east of the town of Chinon, above the Clos de l'Olive and adjacent to Le Chêne Vert. The upper slope of the parcel is clay over limestone (the lower part has sand and gravel over the rock, which permitted a tiny separate production from franc de pied vines, now mostly deceased) and the vines are young, planted from 1993 to 2000. Fermentation in wooden cuves, 12 months of aging in three to ten year-old barriques, 9 additional months in unlined cement vats. We have been buying this wine since it's first production in 2000 – it's one of the most elegant and Burgundian of Chinons. It's become incrreasingly difficult to write superlatives about this wine, as each vintage since 2014 has been superb in it's own way. And now 2018, a vintage the Baudrys describe as "magnificent!" The ripeness of fruit in this vintage diplays a different side of Cabernet Franc with the more traditional light raspberry/strawberry aromatics enhanced by darker fruits: blackberry, black raspberry and boysenberry with violet and earth, that remain vibrant and bright. The color is deep black with a purple rim. The palate shows sensational purity, freshness and elegance with a fabulous dense, silky, calcaire texture and fabulous length of pure black fruits and minerals. While this wine is amazingly delicious now, it should be very interesting with long cellaring as well. Highly recommended! David Lillie
Baudry 2020 Chinon La Croix Boissée Blanc
(This wine is in our warehouse and should arrive Feb 9th) This rare and beautiful Chenin Blanc is from the top of the "Croix Boissée" parcel on eroded limestone. The wine ferments very slowly in 500 liter toneaux until dry - less than 2 g/l residual sugar. "Croix Boissée Blanc 2020 : Classical expression of Chinon Blanc with less alcohol than 2019 and nice acidity at the end. No residual sugar. Malo done as usual. La Croix Boissée Blanc 2020 shows like many vintages those nice notes of anise or fennel with a hint of white apricots. The wine is not big but still salty/mineral. It makes you salivate and calls you for another glass." - Matthieu Baudry This has become one of the finest Chenins of the Loire with beautiful expression of the limestone soil in this lighter vintage. Very limited quantity available.
(This wine is in our warehouse and should arrive by 2/9) The 2020 Baudry Blanc "Domaine" is from young vines in several parcels on the clay/limestone slopes in and around Cravant. The grapes are hand-harvested of course and ferment with wild yeasts in 500 liter oak barrels. 2020 shows a bit dryer and lighter than the 2018 & 2019 "Domaine" blanc, showing a bright pale gold/bronze color, with ripe, floral, chalky aromas of almond and pear. The chalk returns on the palate with bright citrus and round white fruits, a supple, silky texture and good length. A perfect aperitif, this will pair with main courses of full-flavored fish and chicken in sauce says John McIlwain. Lovely wine!
Baudry 2019 Chinon Les Grézeaux
One of the most pleasurable red wines of the Loire Valley, the Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux is from a unique parcel of sixty year-old vines near the bottom of the slope in Sonnay (near Cravant-les-Coteaux) on a bed of gravel over a base of clay, sand and limestone. The grapes are harvested by hand of course and fermented with wild yeasts with zero SO2 added during vinification. Beginning in 2017, the wine ages in large cement vats by Nico Velo, which are slightly porous. Les Grézeaux always has an elegant silky texture and wonderful freshness, making it delicious as a young wine, combined with the ability to age beautifully for 20 years and more in good vintages. The 2019 shows a dark black/purple color with quite floral blackberry and strawberry aromas, with a bit of earth, spice and citrus. Very silky and supple on the palate with deep stony black fruits, meaty, chalky and long. Good acidity in the finish with graphite and velvety black fruits, quite elegant, very sapid and long. This is a lovely "Les Grézeaux" and is highly recommended for early drinking or ten to twenty years of cellaring. David Lillie
Baudry 2019 Chinon Cuvée Domaine
The Baudry Chinon "Domaine" is always one of our favorite reds from the Loire Valley and it's a sensational value as well. All Cabernet Franc of course, a blend of 75% from a parcel in St. Louans, where the thin clay/limestone soils give earthy well-structured wines, with 25% from gravel soils near Cravant, giving supple fruit and freshness. Organic farming, wild-yeast fermentation, aging in 5 to 10 year-old wooden vats and cement with almost no added SO2. The 2019 Domaine shows a deep red/black color and beautiful fresh aromas of ripe red and black fruits with hints of earth, roast meat, black pepper and violet. The palate is dense and sapid with supple strawberry and blackberry liqueur, lacking a bit of the sweet, lush character of the 2018, but showing more underlying mineral flavors lifted by bright acidity. The fruit is quite ripe but the wine is beautifully balanced - it's delicious now and will be singing in 2031 as well. Highly recommended. David Lillie
Baudry 2020 Chinon Les Granges
From 30 to 35 year-old vines on gravel and sandy soils with a bit of clay near the Vienne river in organic agriculture. Hand harvested, fermented with wild yeasts, ages for 8 to 10 months in cement vats, minimal addition of SO2 only prior to bottling. This "basic" cuvée from Bernard and Matthieu Baudry has gotten more and more "serious" as the vines age, giving a wine that is delightful to drink young, but that shows surprising complexity and mineral character as well. The wine shows aromas of ripe raspberry and bluberry with hints of earth, stone, pepper and herbs, really an old school Cab Franc. The palate is quite mineral with firm stony acids underlying lush berry fruits, and is beautifully balanced at 12.5% alcohol. Quite structured for "les Granges," this is delicious now, served cool, with roast chicken, white meats, charcuterie and mild cheeses and will improve with 3 to 5 years of aging.