Ducroux 2020 Vin de France Esquisse Rosé

Christian Ducroux's unique "Esquisse" Rosé is a totally natural wine, made without sulfur-dioxide or other additives or adjustments, 100% Gamay from a high-altitude parcel above Thulon, and usually containing the secondary grapes ("grisemottes") harvested in late October. Low alcohol (11.5%) and ultra-refreshing... The 2020 shows a pale pink/orange color, the aromas show a hint of spice with creamy raspberry fruit with rose petal and citrus. The palate shows subtle, bright berry fruits, citrus and minerals with a touch of earthiness in the finish with firm acidity. Very refreshing, quite naturally delicious, serve quite cool with just about anything....

Ducroux, Christian 2020 Vin de France Cuvée Thibault

From massale selection Riesling and Pinot Gris (and perhaps some Jacquère) grown in Ducroux' high altitude parcel above Thulon, third year of production from young vines. Lovely white fruits with almond, citrus and brown spice with good length, just delicious and pure, superb wine. Sorry, one bottle limit please.

Lapalu 2020 Brouilly La Croix des Rameaux

The Lapalu "La Croix des Rameaux" is from numerous parcels on decomposed granite soils, averaging 60 years of age with the oldest being 90 years-old, south-west exposure. Three week semi-carbonic fermentation, aged in old barrels, not fined or filtered, only 10 mg/l of SO2, production about 200 cases. The 2020 La Croix des Rameaux has dark ruby, verging on purple, robe. High toned, pretty armomas of dried violets, pastilles, blackberry seed, pomegranate, and loam swirl on the nose. The palate is concentrated and supple, with black cherry, cherry stone, black tea and brambly wild berry flavors over a punchy mineral core, with just a hint of wild herbs bringing up the long, lingering finish. There‘s still some structure here to resolve, but this should shine with another year or so in bottle as the structural elements knit. This is a lovely expression of Brouilly and not to be missed. John McIlwain

Lapalu 2020 Côte de Brouilly

The Mont Brouilly, a volcanic "bump" in the granite bedrocks of the Beaujolais, is a terroir of mineral-rich bluish rock with little or no soil, giving a quite different character to the wines. The Lapalu 2020 is from a one hectare parcel of old vines with northeast exposure, so late to ripen.  The fruit was 80% destemmed and 20% whole cluster carbonic maceration, with 10 mg/liter of SO2 added only before bottling. The 2020 Lapalu Côte de Brouilly boasts a vibrant purple robe. The nose offers a high-toned mélange of plum skin, raspberry seed, cassis, crushed herbs, and spice. The palate is racy and imbued with wild blueberry, Italian plum, and mulberry flavors dancing across the palate. Bright on the attack, the wine tends more toward succulent fruit and joyous energy rather than firm structure with dusty tannins and bright acidity. This is delicious juicy fun now with enough savory notes to give it a place at the table, though it certainly has the balance for near-term aging. John McIlwain

Lapalu 2020 Beaujolais-Villages Vieilles Vignes

 The 2020 Lapalu Beaujolais Villages is a selection of old vines (50 to 80 years-old) from several plots with a density of 11,000 plants per hectare. Mostly mid-slope, south-east facing early ripening parcels on sandy granite soils. Whole cluster carbonic fermentation in stainless steel vats with indigenous yeasts, maceration of 10 to 12 days, aged on the fine lees for 7 months in concrete vats. 10 mg/liter of SO2 added only before bottling. Another terrific vintage for the Lapalu Beaujolais Villages VV! The nose offers brambly aromas of hedge fruits, wild raspberry, pomegranate, and bruised strawberry of the nose. Sweet dark fruits on the palate, savory mineral spine,  and tangy berry fruit on the finish. This displays pinpoint balance between bright freshness and sapid earthiness with a deliciousness that beckons for another sip. John McIlwain

Domaine Thillardon 2019 Chénas Vibrations

Paul-Henri Thillardon began with 3 hectares of family vineyards in 2008, then acquired 2 hectares in Chénas, always worked with organic/biodynamic methods and certified organic in 2011. Vinifications here are semi-carbonic, with a long maceration but gentle extraction and with minimal SO2 at bottling only. The 2019 "Vibrations" is crackling with energy. Translucent ruby in hue with a slight prickle. Cherry stone, red plum, mustard seed, wild raspberry, and blood orange zest on the nose. The palate is zingy, zangy, punchy, and tangy with little flashes of pomegranate pop-rock, 9-volt battery (all good, I assure you) and a graphite-y core beneath the exuberant fruit. This has lift and depth and all those this-is-damned-good-Beaujolais signifiers that bring a smile to any true Gamay freak. Punchy, racy fun with saucisson before dinner, but with enough earthy soul to shine magret of duck with Greenmarket peaches and summer vegetables. This is sensational Chénas and “Vibrations” is an apt name for the cuvée—it’s just humming and strumming with energy. Highly recommended. John McIlwain

Domaine Thillardon 2020 Moulin-a-Vent Sous la Roche

(Arrives 8/24) The 2020 Thillardon Moulin-a-Vent is from vines in the commune of Chenas on a south and east facing hillside with soils of "granit rose," a small parcel just behind the "Chassignol" vineyard. Lovely, delicate aromas of raspberry and wild strawberry with notes of allspice and pepper. Light-medium-bodied with lively acidity, fresh-picked berry flavors and mellow tannins. Lots of "buvabilité" (read easy-to-drink), so enjoy now or follow over the next 2-3 years.(12 btls available)

Descombes, Georges 2019 Chiroubles Vieilles Vignes

As much as I love Burgundy, there are times that the occasion calls for a beautiful Beaujolais. And a sticky night in June is just such an occasion. And with a magret of duck from the Greenmarket and sautéed tatsoi, the newly-arrived Georges Descombes 2019 Chiroubles Vieilles Vignes beckons. The robe is a marvelous mulberry purple. The nose is perfumed, with pretty notes of black raspberry, wild cherry, graphite, and spice. The ripe (but lithe) palate balances a juicy freshness of red berry and plum character with a fine-grained, earthy undercurrent of structure. But at the moment the ebullient fruit is singing with grilled duck breast (though I wouldn’t hesitate to pair with salmon, roasted zucchini and carrots with salsa verde, or saucisson) and playing off the bitterness of the mustard greens on the plate. This is a cracking bottle of Chiroubles that welcomes a light chill and seemingly banishes humidity. This should be a pleasure to taste over the next couple nights and warrants socking away a few bottles for a more mature drinking experience. This is sensational and but for a little granitic spice, this rivals the magical 2014 Regnié VV for sheer joy. John McIlwain

Descombes, Georges 2019 Brouilly Vieilles Vignes

This is absolutely my kind of Beaujolais and truly magnificent wine. It is spilling over with really pure ripe strawberry - fruit as vivid as those I received from my CSA the same weekend. But despite the intensity of the fruit character, there is no sense of heaviness or clumsiness or excess alcohol. The wine is juicy and buoyant, with terrific acidity to balance out the ample red fruit. Honestly, trying to describe this wine in the usual fashion is pointless. Great cru Beaujolais is something I tasted a lot of early in my career and what I loved was the pleasure it inspires. I drank this bottle over three days and not only did it not fade, it stayed vibrant, shedding some baby fat and allowing more of the minerality to emerge. Utterly astonishing. Sam Ehrlich