Drinking Old Wine Many of our favorite wines have been old bottles. While the great majority of wines are made to be consumed within a couple of years of their production, the relatively few wines that are intended to age can offer absolutely magical tasting experiences.
We are pleased to offer older wines for
The Not-So-Simple Jacquère of Savoie: Domaine des Côtes Rousses and Blard & Fils It is so easy to put your nose into Jacquère from a recently opened bottle, or take a sip three seconds after you pull it from the fridge, and assume that the wine will be pleasant, but rather neutral for the entirety of its life. Lean and bracing, but not particularly complex. This isn't
2019-Freshness and Filigree from Florian Lauer 2019 is shaping up to be an extraordinary vintage in Germany, from both a quality and scarcity standpoint. The wines we've been fortunate enough to taste combine exquisite fruit, frank minerality and an airy, lifted character to the aromatics—what lovers of Riesling want. And Florian Lauer has deliv
Thierry Valette's Clos Puy Arnaud: Two Bottles, Two Soils in Castillon Clos Puy Arnaud is located near the town of Belvès-de-Castillon, which is perched along a large plateau of limestone - a geological formation similar to the neighboring long stretch of elevated limestone belonging to the St.-Emilion AOC. Thierry Valette purchased the estate in 1999 after
Spring and New Arrivals from Champagne After a long, dark, and anxious winter, spring is finally here! The days are longer, the tariffs have been suspended, and the air is sweet (though it's certainly hard to tell from behind our masks). And with spring we are finally seeing the arrival of a passel of new wines. And of the new arrivals,
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Featured Articles
Drinking Old Wine Many of our favorite wines have been old bottles. While the great majority of wines are made to be consumed within a couple of years of their production, the relatively few wines that are intended to age can offer absolutely magical tasting experiences.
We are pleased to offer older wines for
The Not-So-Simple Jacquère of Savoie: Domaine des Côtes Rousses and Blard & Fils It is so easy to put your nose into Jacquère from a recently opened bottle, or take a sip three seconds after you pull it from the fridge, and assume that the wine will be pleasant, but rather neutral for the entirety of its life. Lean and bracing, but not particularly complex. This isn't
2019-Freshness and Filigree from Florian Lauer 2019 is shaping up to be an extraordinary vintage in Germany, from both a quality and scarcity standpoint. The wines we've been fortunate enough to taste combine exquisite fruit, frank minerality and an airy, lifted character to the aromatics—what lovers of Riesling want. And Florian Lauer has deliv
Thierry Valette's Clos Puy Arnaud: Two Bottles, Two Soils in Castillon Clos Puy Arnaud is located near the town of Belvès-de-Castillon, which is perched along a large plateau of limestone - a geological formation similar to the neighboring long stretch of elevated limestone belonging to the St.-Emilion AOC. Thierry Valette purchased the estate in 1999 after
Spring and New Arrivals from Champagne After a long, dark, and anxious winter, spring is finally here! The days are longer, the tariffs have been suspended, and the air is sweet (though it's certainly hard to tell from behind our masks). And with spring we are finally seeing the arrival of a passel of new wines. And of the new arrivals,
2019 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Part One: The Superb "Boisrenard," Plus Beaurenard, Charvin and Ferrand! And Two Sensational 16s...
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We have recently tasted a few superb 2019 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and by all accounts this is a vintage to buy, with the "regular" cuvées providing good early drinking and the more serious wines capable of long-term aging.
"2019 is a very good, very attractive vintage for the reds of CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE" says our friend John Livingstone-Learmonth of drinkrhone.com. "It is better than 2017 and 2018, possesses better balance than those two years, and across the board is superior to 2020, as well, from what my reliable sources tell me.
"The most likeable aspect of the vintage is the appealing texture, a suave filling, with fruit that is clear and rolling. Tannins fit in well, and allow good extension to the finishes. These are not wines with the brooding intensity of the mighty 2016s, and will be approachable in relatively short order, albeit with the potential to evolve well into the 2040s."
"Despite the dry conditions of the middle summer onwards, the wines have avoided dry tannins, faring better in that respect than the noticeably rather demanding 2017s. Even though the summer months were very dry, two factors allowed the vineyards to handle those conditions. First, the winter 2018-19 rains were abundant, so reserves were good in the subsoils. Second, as the Grenache notably was slow to ripen its skins - no surprise given the drought - there came only very moderate rain at the time of the autumn equinox, with just 20 mm (0.8 in) on 22 September. The gentle 2019 fall opened the way for the phenolic ripening to complete itself, cosy tannins the result, and harvest dates often running into late September or early October."
While we have enjoyed many 2018s for their supple and forward fruit, and many 2017s for their weight and structure, it's clear that 2019 is a superior vintage especially for those with patience...
drinkrhone.com has awarded it's top 6-star review to only two wines from the 2019 vintage - the Domaine Marcoux Vieilles Vignes and the Domaine Beaurenard "Boisrenard." We tasted the "Boisrenard" last week and it is indeed a magnificent wine! Our review from John McIlwain: "The robe is a concentrated mullbery purple hue. The nose is floral and exotic without going overboard—featuring aromas of violets, plum skin, hibiscus, and spicebox, as well as leather, game and garrique. And there’s a bit of wood framing things, but no sense of heavy-handedness. Everything is beautifully knit. The palate is rich and supple on the attack with good freshness in contrast to the ripe lush fruit with a fine core of mineral tension lending gravitas and keeping the wine in equipoise. And about that fruit! Mullberry, plum, dark cherry, blood orange and cherry stone culminating in a long, succulent finish that fans out with exotic spice, sandalwood, and earth notes. There is plenty of tension and nuance here with fine energy to carry the ripeness and there is no sense of heat or over-extraction. This is exquisite and will benefit from 7-12 years in the cellar and drink for a decade or more beyond. Truly lovely Châteauneuf and well worth a look."
"A wine to celebrate an important day from 2019 in 25 years’ time. Drink until 2050-52" (www.drinkrhone.com)
Plowing at BeaaurenardBeaurenard vines
The vineyards of Domaine de Beaurenard are certified organic and Biodynamic and are blessed with a high proportion of old vines. ("Boisrenard" is mostly from parcels planted between 1902 and 1935.) We also enjoyed the 2019 "regular" Beaurenard Chateauneuf-du-Pape which showed elegant, floral red and black fruits with a focused, silky palate and terrific length - really a lovely CDP to drink now, with a decant, and over the next 15 to 20 years. Beaurenard made a lovely Cotes-du-Rhone in 2020, from 50 year-old vines at Rasteau - it's beautifully open and ready, showing surprising complexity and length - a delicious junior CDP to drink over the next five years.
Laurent Charvin
The wines of Laurent Charvin have always been among our very favorites at Chambers Street. The estate has always worked well in the vines and is now certified organic; fermentations are with whole clusters and aging is in concrete vats, making this a very traditional style of Châteauneuf. The cépages are 85% Grenache, 5% Mourvèdre, 5% Vaccarèse, 5% Syrah, in soils of sand, clay/limestone and "galets roulets" terroirs. We have always enjoyed the complex, pretty aromatics and silky texture of Charvin's wine and our brief taste of the 2019 confirmed that this is a excellent vintage for this classic Chateauneuf, showing a cooler, brighter style than many wines in this rather dense vintage. We also heartily recommend the 2019 Côtes-du-Rhône "Le Poutet" (also whole-cluster fermentation and aging in cement) which is another great success in 2019, a bit more serious and structured than the 2018.
Philippe & Mireille Bravay of Domaine de Ferrand
Philippe Bravay at Domaine de Ferrand is another grower who produces an outstanding traditional Châteauneuf from his 7.5 hectares of very old vines (50 to 115 years-old) in the northern sector on sandy and galets roulets soils. Primarily Grenache, with small amounts of Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvedre and Bourboulenc. Farming here has always been with organic methods, though not certified, and vinification and aging is in concrete vats, with minimal use of SO2. We haven't yet tasted the 2019 but apparently it's on the mark this year. "Full red colour; the nose has a biscuity, crushed nutshells air, red berry and plum fruit at its centre, with a discreet floral, scented presence that appeals. The palate bustles with vigour on the attack, mixes its thrusting content with live tannins that need time to refine. There is a lot in the locker in this very genuine Châteauneuf, and it represents its place well, this quartier near Orange. There is implicit power and strength on the persistent finish. Drink from 2024 uuntil 2047." - drinkrhone.com
2016!
"2016 is a fabulous vintage at CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE. The Royal appellation of the Southern Rhône can truly strut its multi-coloured, fascinating robes this year, a dazzle of pleasure to the eye and to all the senses. The wines are full of bounty, are aromatic, possess certain content, ripe tannins, and, hallelujah, are BALANCED. 2016 aligns itself with 1978, and notably with 1990," (drinkrhone.com) We're happy to offer two of the top wines from this excellent vintage...
"Grand Pin" within Pignan and "Guigasse"
Chapelle Saint-Theodoric is a project of importer Peter Weygandt with winemaker Baptiste Grangeon. The domain is comprised of two parcels; one in the lieu-dit "La Guigasse," which is a pure sand soil and where the vines (all Grenache) range in age of from 50 to 100 years; and the other parcel within Pignan, "Le Grand Pin," literally adjoining the vines of Chateau Rayas, also in pure sand and also pure, old vines Grenache. The farming is organic and biodynamic. There is a two to three week vinification, with the stems, with wild yeasts and minimal extraction. The wines are aged for two years in four to ten year-old 600-liter barrels and are bottled unfined and unfiltered. The wines are not inexpensive, but for lovers of elegance and finesse in the Rhone Valley, they are essential. In 2016, these two cuvées are simply outstanding and are on everyone's list of the finest Chateauneuf-du-Papes of this excellent vintage.
(For those interested in the real deal on all things Rhone, we suggest a subscription to www.drinkrhone.com!)
Charvin and Ferrand arrive late October, all others by Friday 10/22. ("Boisrenard" is net priced, all others discount 10% on a case or mixed case)
2019 "Boisrenard" The robe is a concentrated mullbery purple hue. The nose is floral and exotic without going overboard—featuring aromas of violets, plum skin, hibiscus, and spicebox, as well as leather, game and garrique. And there’s a bit of wood framing things, but no sense of heavy-handedness. Everything is beautifully knit. The palate is rich and supple on the attack with good freshness in contrast to the ripe lush fruit with a fine core of mineral tension lending gravitas and keeping the wine in equipoise. And about that fruit! Mullberry, plum, dark cherry, blood orange and cherry stone culminating in a long, succulent finish that fans out with exotic spice, sandalwood, and earth notes. There is plenty of tension and nuance here with fine energy to carry the ripeness and there is no sense of heat or over-extraction. I’m always nervous when Châteauneuf is blessed with new oak and the oldest vines—too many wines that taste like consultants and points for my taste, but this is exquisite and will benefit from 7-12 years in the cellar and drink for a decade beyond. Truly lovely Châteauneuf and well worth a look.
The 2019 Domaine de Beaurenard is mad from 70% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 6% various inc Clairette rose, Grenache gris and 4% Cinsault. The wine shows a bright red/black color and elegant aromas of black cherry, red currant, licorice, rose petal and sweet spice. The palate is dense but silky, supple and nicely balanced with sappy, focused black cherry and black raspberry fruit framed in earthy saline minerals. The finish is long with firm acidity under supple black and red fruits. This will drink well young with a decant or a few hours open, best 2023 - 2040. Lovely wine. David Lillie
The 2019 Charvin is a beautiful Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Review from drinkrhone.com: "quite a full red robe; the nose is very smoky, lined with pepper, rosemary, plums, is a virile do, is going to open devilishly well in a large glass, is a right goer potentially. The palate is clad in firm gras, has a real good heartbeat, a proper structure; the second half really digs in, persists, intensifies, the tannins rocky on the outside, compact on the inside, serve a very good buttress. There’s good concentration here, it’s well orchestrated, its depth coming from within, the length very good. “I am super proud of this – there’s a lot of alcohol, it’s very rich, but you have floral-herbaceous airs on the nose, rosemary and thyme. It’s very airborne for a powerful year,” says Laurent Charvin." Hold a few years then enjoy until 2050.
The Ferrand 2019 CDP is from 7.5 hectares of very old vines in the northern sector on sandy and galets roulets soils. Primarily Grenache, with small amounts of Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvedre and Bourboulenc. Farming here has always been with organic methods, though not certified, and vinification and aging is in concrete vats, with minimal use of SO2. We haven't yet tasted the 2019 but apparently it's on the mark this year: "Full red colour; the nose has a biscuity, crushed nutshells air, red berry and plum fruit at its centre, with a discreet floral, scented presence that appeals. The palate bustles with vigour on the attack, mixes its thrusting content with live tannins that need time to refine. There is a lot in the locker in this very genuine Châteauneuf, and it represents its place well, this quartier near Orange. There is implicit power and strength on the persistent finish. Drink from 2024 uuntil 2047." - drinkrhone.com
The 2016 "La Guigasse" is a beautiful CDP in an old-fashioned style, from a parcel with very old vines (70 - 90 years-old) on sandy soils with a bit of clay next to Pignan. The aromas are very floral and complex with ripe cherry and raspberry but with a dark meaty, spicy, chocolate side as well. This has old vine intensity, and will need some time. There are deep berry fruits on the palate, quite dense and with firm tannins, with earthy mineral notes. Terrific length and weight, not as immediately enjoyable as the Grand Pin, but it should age beautifully - give it 5 years to open, then drink until 2040.
Le Grand Pin is all Grenache from 50 - 100 year-old vines in the Pignan vineyard on sandy soils. Whole-cluster fermentation in concrete vat with wild yeasts, minimal extraction, aged in 4 to 10 year-old large casks. "The nose is very curvy, gives a well-lifted aroma of red berries with notes of pine, a strawberry fruits sweetness. It’s as if it has been lifted straight from its tree-lined vineyard. The palate has an effortless feel to it, parades cosy, perfumed red berry Grenache fruit, with a sprinkle of dusty tannins towards the finish. It brings in some mineral, a lead pencil notion from the mid-point. It is quietly complex,"(www.drinkrhone.com) Although a bit less tannic than the 2016 Guigasse, we would recommend a few years of cellaring, then drink until 2040.
