Drinking Old Wine Many of our favorite wines have been old bottles. While the great majority of wines are made to be consumed within a couple of years of their production, the relatively few wines that are intended to age can offer absolutely magical tasting experiences.
We are pleased to offer older wines for
The Not-So-Simple Jacquère of Savoie: Domaine des Côtes Rousses and Blard & Fils It is so easy to put your nose into Jacquère from a recently opened bottle, or take a sip three seconds after you pull it from the fridge, and assume that the wine will be pleasant, but rather neutral for the entirety of its life. Lean and bracing, but not particularly complex. This isn't
2019-Freshness and Filigree from Florian Lauer 2019 is shaping up to be an extraordinary vintage in Germany, from both a quality and scarcity standpoint. The wines we've been fortunate enough to taste combine exquisite fruit, frank minerality and an airy, lifted character to the aromatics—what lovers of Riesling want. And Florian Lauer has deliv
Thierry Valette's Clos Puy Arnaud: Two Bottles, Two Soils in Castillon Clos Puy Arnaud is located near the town of Belvès-de-Castillon, which is perched along a large plateau of limestone - a geological formation similar to the neighboring long stretch of elevated limestone belonging to the St.-Emilion AOC. Thierry Valette purchased the estate in 1999 after
Spring and New Arrivals from Champagne After a long, dark, and anxious winter, spring is finally here! The days are longer, the tariffs have been suspended, and the air is sweet (though it's certainly hard to tell from behind our masks). And with spring we are finally seeing the arrival of a passel of new wines. And of the new arrivals,
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Featured Articles
Drinking Old Wine Many of our favorite wines have been old bottles. While the great majority of wines are made to be consumed within a couple of years of their production, the relatively few wines that are intended to age can offer absolutely magical tasting experiences.
We are pleased to offer older wines for
The Not-So-Simple Jacquère of Savoie: Domaine des Côtes Rousses and Blard & Fils It is so easy to put your nose into Jacquère from a recently opened bottle, or take a sip three seconds after you pull it from the fridge, and assume that the wine will be pleasant, but rather neutral for the entirety of its life. Lean and bracing, but not particularly complex. This isn't
2019-Freshness and Filigree from Florian Lauer 2019 is shaping up to be an extraordinary vintage in Germany, from both a quality and scarcity standpoint. The wines we've been fortunate enough to taste combine exquisite fruit, frank minerality and an airy, lifted character to the aromatics—what lovers of Riesling want. And Florian Lauer has deliv
Thierry Valette's Clos Puy Arnaud: Two Bottles, Two Soils in Castillon Clos Puy Arnaud is located near the town of Belvès-de-Castillon, which is perched along a large plateau of limestone - a geological formation similar to the neighboring long stretch of elevated limestone belonging to the St.-Emilion AOC. Thierry Valette purchased the estate in 1999 after
Spring and New Arrivals from Champagne After a long, dark, and anxious winter, spring is finally here! The days are longer, the tariffs have been suspended, and the air is sweet (though it's certainly hard to tell from behind our masks). And with spring we are finally seeing the arrival of a passel of new wines. And of the new arrivals,
Windsurfing on Lake Nieuserdlersee
AUSTRIAN ADVENTURES
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As fall revs up into full swing, we want to shed a light on our deep Austrian collection of classic and adventurous wines, perfect for the shoulder season both temperture and food wise. Featuring Burgenland with it's Lake Nieuserdlersee, a windsurfing mecca.
We begin with two of our more unusual arrivals for a sense of newfound discovery and thrills.
STRAKA 2019 STRATOS BURGENLAND $21.99
It's Riesling...but not quite...that's right, it's Welschriesling from the southeastern border with Hungary. Welschriesling is an eastern European clone found in Hungary, Serbia, Croatia, Slovenia and Slovakia. The aromatic profile most often calls upon flavors of young fruit and flowers. Elderberry, chamomile, green apple and vineyard peach are common aromatic descriptors. The most ambitious wines have been known to contain the heady smell of quince, with vivid minerality. Straka's wine hails from Rechnitz, which sits 360 m above sea level on the slopes of the Geschriebenstein, the highest mountain in the Burgenland. The vineyards climb as high as 500m and are known for their unique geological soils -- a combination of crystalline schist and magmatic deposits that can only be found in 3 other places in the world. It is a very windy and dry area which cools off considerably at night. This results in very few pests, no need for herbicide or any other treatments and crisp clear mineral-driven wines with good acidity and fruit with notes of lemon, salt and green apple. Minerality coupled with high acidity lead to a savory finish. Seemingly innocuous but insidiously layered.
It's kind of like Riesling's evil twin sister. Yes, she's young and blonde but there's a glint in her eye and a look that says: "Are you really going to take the last chicken wing?"
Verdict: Ella Fanning in 'The Neon Demon"
MORIC LAKE BALATON FURMINT/RIESLING 2017 $26.99
Wine number two actually hails from across the border in Hungary from the scenic shores of Lake Balaton (another great windsurfing mecca)
"Hidden Treasures No. 3 is a collaboration between Roland Velich (MORIC) and Philip Oser of Villa Tolnay. The number 3 indicates that this is Roland's third partnership in Hungary. Philip Oser originates from Switzerland and started Villa Tolnay on the shores of Lake Balaton in 2004. Here, Oser grows Riesling and Furmint in rich basalt soils. The vineyards stretch up Csobánc hill, the remains of a magnificent volcanic mountain surrounded by the sedimentary deposits of the former Pannonian Sea. The distinct minerality in these soils make the Lake Balaton region a very special place to make wine. The wine undergoes spontaneous/native fermentation partly in used Hungarian oak and partly in stainless steel. The result is a crisp white wine full of tension and subtle complexity. " Winemonger
Furmint is a Hungarian grape most notably known as the main grape for the famed dessert wine Tokaji, but when grown in the volcanic soils of Balaton it exudes more of a "mineral kick" in the dry wines.
She's not for the faint of heart, but if you like your ladies with an edge, check out this steely blonde. Powerful, yet vulnerable. Loaded with volcanic minerality, the wine blasts you like a laser beam of wet stones, citrus, sea shells white hay and mountain flowers. Full-bodied, yet lean and taut. A perfect pairing with river or lake fish like the local carp as well as shellfish.
Verdict: Charlize Theron in the film "Atomic Blonde"
Charlize Theron
Rosi Schuster 2018 Burgenland St. Laurent Classic St Margarethen $24.99
"Just a few miles west of the great shallow lake called the Neusiedlersee in Southeastern Austria on the border with Hungary is the town of St. Margarethen and the winery Rosi Schuster which specializes in brilliant, long-lived red wines. Their nine hectares of vines spread themselves out among the finest and oldest vineyards in the communities of St Margarethen and Zagersdorf. Certified organic, they produce some of the most distinctive and expressive red wines from Austria' signature varieties Blaufrankisch and Sankt Laurent. Hannes has made a name for himself as somewhat of a Sankt Laurent specialist amongst his Austrian peers. Hannes' style and winemaking techniques are greatly influenced by his friend and mentor Roland Velich of the Moric estate, who he has collaborated closely with for more than a decade. Working exclusively with subtle Austrian oak barrels by Stockinger, Hannes aims at brining the brighter side of the variety's fruit into the glass while expressing the various terroirs of the villages of Sankt Margarethen, Rust and Zagersdorf, with soils ranging from heavy loam to sandstone, gravel and limestone. Sankt Laurent is thought to be related to Pinot Noir, a crossing of the noble grape and another variety of unknown origin, native to Burgenland." Winemonger
The old idiom of the "iron fist in a velvet glove" applies here. Organically farmed, this Sankt Laurent was fermented with native yeasts and spent one year in used 500 Liter Stockinger barrels. Presenting rich minerals and dusty blackberries with a hint of herbaceousness waft from the glass. The palate bursts with earthy, yet fresh mineral-rich notes of cherry and red berries. Silky tannins, delicate spice and a lovely long finish are signature characteristics. Very bright acidity is tempered by it's velvety mouthfeel and body—a true class act.
Verdict: Kate Beckinsale in " Love and Friendship"
Moric 2019 Burgenland Blaufränkisch $35.99
While the first officially documented appearance of Blaufränkisch did not occur until 1862 when the grape was included in a viticultural exposition in Vienna, it is likely that the grape is much older and has perhaps been around as long as the Middle Ages under a variety of Fränkisch synonyms. During the Middle Ages, the wine from this region was highly praised, and grapes that were thought to be capable of producing superior wines were called Fränkisch to distinguish them from the less highly prized Hunnic grapes.
"Made in an early drinking style from 'younger' vines (10-50 years old) grown on limestone, primary rock and loam from Neckenmarkt and Lutzmannsburg. Fermented in open vats and steel tank. A wonderful introduction to Roland's elegant take on Blaufrankisch.
Since 2001 Roland Velich has been crafting world class wine from Blaufrankisch. He is determined to show that this indigenous Austrian grape has as much finesse and elegance as Pinot Noir from Burgundy. Again and again he has proven this to be true. Vintage after vintage these are beyond a doubt gorgeous refined wines. The Burgenland bottling is his business card per se, a way to discover the potential of this grape and winemaker with out a long wait, however, it has the ability to not only drink now but age as well. Signature characteristics are a lovely ruby hue, high-toned aromatic blue fruits, spice and black tea." Winemonger
Under its youthful guise, the wine reveals a deep, inky purple robe. Although diplaying an earthy, mineral nose, the palate is redolent of dark currants with bright acidity, silky tannins, enveloped in a lush, full body with a profoundly timeles finish. A wine with which to contemplate eternity and mortality while devouring roasted game meats or barbecue.
Verdict: Charlize Theron in "The Old Guard"
The Old Guard
Leaving Burgenland now for other Austrian adventures, we revisit our recently highlighted trio in last Saturday's New Additions article. I have found the perfect trio of blondes to pair to these wines... check out Soffia Coppola's remake of Clint Eastwood's 70s film "The Beguiled", this time, told from the ladies' point of view.
Giselle Hamburg
Nicole Kidman as NEUMEISTER STEIERMARK MORILLON 2017
Neumeister 2017 Morillon Steirische $19.99
Neumeister 2017 Morillon Steirische $19.99 (was $26.99) From the Southeastern volcanic region of Styria next to the border with Slovenia comes our latest "get it before it's gone" deal. Chambers got the last 3 cases of the 2017 vintage. At an average altitude of 1200ft, the climate is characterized by warm days and cool nights. Due to the Mediterranean and Alpine influence, there is sufficient rainfall averaging 900 mm per year, which in turn allows a long growing period and late harvest. 30 hectares are cultivated, distributed over countless small vineyards on steep slopes. Many of these vineyards have reached an age of 50 years and more. Organic farming has been practiced since 2013. Morillon is a common name for the powerfully aromatic Chardonnay of Styria in southern Austria. It was a widely used Burgundian vine variety name in the Middle Ages and was, for example, an old name for Chardonnay in Chablis. A Chardonnay for Burgundy lovers at a fraction of the price! On the nose and palate, the wine blasts you with intense minerality and a hint of petrol, citrus and green apples. Medium bodied, extremely elegant with lively acidity and a long, concentrated finish. Perfect for roasted seafood, white meats, grilled sausages and vegetables. Giselle Hamburg
Kirsten Dunst as JOSEPH EHMOSER RIESLING 2020
Ehmoser, Josef 2020 Wagram Vom Gelben Loss $22.99
The Wagram is a region known for its deep loess soils that can go to a depth of twenty meters before hitting marine sediment. Grown in deep golden loess soil (gelben can be translated as ‘golden’ or yellow), the grapes are gently pressed with a slow fermentation. Riesling grown in a loess soil gives a rounder and fruitier wine compared to Riesling grown in the Wachau. The Ehmoser 2020 Riesling is a pristine example of this juicier style. Aromas of white flowers, cut grass, wet stones and lemon waft from the glass. Spritzy lemon drops with a hint of sweetness tickle the palate enveloped in a soft, round finish. An excellent pairing for Thai food. Giselle Hamburg
Elle Fanning as ZAHEL "ORANGE T" VIENNA ORANGETRAUBE
"Until about 30 years ago, the Zahel family served the local community with a one-hectare vineyard and about four Heurigen tables. In 1989, Richard hung up his proverbial helmet, leaving a career in car racing to grow the family business. That same year, he became the first Viennese winemaker to write “Wiener Gemischter Satz” on a wine label, celebrating what had previously been sold primarily as a tap wine in local restaurants. Orangetraube is a rare golden yellow and aromatic white grape variety that is most often found in Austrian field blends. The grapes' skin takes on a slightly orange tint when fully ripe, hence the name Orangetraube, which literally translates to "Orange Grape." Related to traminer, it's been cultivated in Germany and Austria, though most entirely as part of a field blend and rarely as a single-variety wine. Now in it's 4th generation, Zahel is the only Austrian winery that produces a wine composed of 100% Orangetraube." The Orange “T” presents juicy and refreshing underripe peach and apricot , orange blossom with a subtle minerality. The wine's spritzy acidity is well-balanced , light and delicate. A sheer joy, great pairing for fresh goat cheeses, roasted squash and delicate grilled fish such as trout. Giselle Hamburg
It's Riesling...but not quite...that's right, it's Welschriesling from the southeastern border with Hungary. Welschriesling is an eastern European clone found in Hungary, Serbia, Croatia, Slovenia and Slovakia. The aromatic profile most often calls upon flavors of young fruit and flowers. Elderberry, chamomile, green apple and vineyard peach are common aromatic descriptors. The most ambitious wines have been known to contain the heady smell of quince with vivid minerality. Straka's wine hails from Rechnitz, which sits 360 m above sea level on the slopes of the Geschriebenstein, the highest mountain in the Burgenland. The vineyards climb as high as 500m and are known for their unique geological soils -- a combination of crystalline schist and magmatic deposits that can only be found in 3 other places in the world. It is a very windy and dry area which cools off considerably at night. This results in very few pests, no need for herbicide or any other treatments and crisp clear mineral-driven wines with good acidity and fruit with notes of lemon, salt and green apple. Minerality coupled with high acidity lead to a savory finish. Seemingly innocuous but insidiously layered. -GH
Furmint is a Hungarian grape most notably known as the main grape for the infamous dessert wine Tokaji, but from the volcanic soils of Balaton it exudes more of a kick in the dry wines. She's not for the faint of heart. But if you like your ladies with an edge, check out this steely blonde. Powerful yet vulnerable. Loaded with volcanic minerality, the wine blasts you like a laser beam of wet stones, citrus, sea shells white hay and mountain flowers. Full bodied yet lean and taut. A perfect pairing with river or lake fish like the local carp as well as shellfish. -GH
The old adage of the iron fist in a velvet glove applies here. Organically farmed, this Sankt Laurent was fermented with native yeasts and spent one year in used 500 Liter Stockinger barrels. Presenting a dark ruby/purple robe, she comes across as opulent and velvety. A heady nose of iron rich minerals and dusty blackberries with a hint of herbaceousness waft from the glass. The palate bursts with earthy yet fresh mineral-rich notes of cherry and red berries. Silky tannins, delicate spice and a lovely long finish are signature characteristics. Bright acidity is tempered by its velvety mouthfeel and body. Very Burgudian, a true class act. -GH
While the first officially documented appearance of Blaufränkisch did not occur until 1862 when the grape was included in a viticultural exposition in Vienna, it is likely that the grape is much older and has perhaps been around as long as the Middle Ages under a variety of Fränkisch synonyms. During the Middle Ages, the wine from this region was highly praised, and grapes that were thought to be capable of producing superior wines were called Fränkisch to distinguish them from the less highly prized Hunnic grapes. Under it's youthful guise, the wine reveals a deep, inky purple robe. Although diplaying an earthy, mineral nose, the palate is redolent of dark currents with bright acidity, silky tannins, enveloped in a lush, full body with a profoundly timeles finish. A wine with which to contemplate eternity and mortality while devouring roasted game meats or barbecue. -GH
The Wagram is a region known for its deep loess soils that can go to a depth of twenty meters before hitting marine sediment. Grown in deep golden loess soil (gelben can be translated as ‘golden’ or yellow), the grapes are gently pressed with a slow fermentation. Riesling grown in a loess soil gives a rounder and fruitier wine compared to Riesling grown in the Wachau. The Ehmoser 2020 Riesling is a pristine example of this juicier style. Aromas of white flowers, cut grass, wet stones and lemon waft from the glass. Spritzy lemon drops with a hint of sweetness tickle the palate enveloped in a soft, round finish. An excellent pairing for Thai food.Giselle Hamburg
Orangetraube is related to Traminer, cultivated in Germany and Austria, though most entirely as part of a field blend and rarely as a single-variety wine. Now in it's 4th generation, Zahel is the only Austrian winery that produces a wine composed of 100% Orangetraube." The Orange “T” presents juicy and refreshing under ripe peach and apricot , orange blossom with a subtle minerality. The wine's spritzy acidity is well-balanced , light and delicate. A sheer joy, great pairing for fresh goat cheeses, roasted squash and delicate grilled fish such as trout. Giselle Hamburg
