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Although the estate is quite young in terms of Champagne houses, Pascal Doquet produces wines we consider modern classics. In the few years the wines have been available under his own name, we’ve been bowled over by their beauty and terroir expression. Based in Vertus, Pascal has worked the family’s Doquet-Jeanmaire estate as chef de cave since 1995 and in 2004 acquired full ownership of the family holdings freeing him to implement heathier cultivation for the benefit of the land. Following conversion to organics in 2007 (and certification in 2010), the wines have only gained in purity and harmony thanks to increasingly conscientious farming. In addtion to his activities in the vines and cellar Pascal is president of the Bulles Bio growers organization and an accomplished musician (to watch him play guitar onstage with a pick-up band of Champenois growers is a joy!).
Doquet’s Domaine is between eight and nine hectares, located in Vertus, Le Mesnil, and Mont Aimé. Planted to 95% Chardonnay, these are clear expressions of Côte des Blancs Champagne. Grapes are hand harvested, the grapes are pressed pneumatically and only the cuvée is used, with the taille sold off. Fermentation is with indigenous yeasts to better express the individual terroirs and the wines are aged in a combination of tank and neutral wood. The majority of the cuvées spend significant time on on the lees, resulting in layered, earthy, mature wines on release.
This excellent 100% Chardonnay from certified organic vigneron Pascal Doquet is an excellent example of a non-vintage blanc des blancs sourced from Les-Mesnil-sur-Oger, one of Champagne's most famed grand cru villages. Base vintage 2009 (61%), reserve wine (31%), fermented and aged in a combination of enamel tank and neutral barrel. The robe is a pale golden yellow. The nose offers an attractive array of white fruits, lemon blossom, chalk, and biscuit aromas. The palate is energetic and layered with fine flavors of lemon curd, seashell, and a bit of the classic Mesnil quinine profile. This has an incisive briny chalk character and an ethereal elegance, with room for further development. Disgorged January 31st, 2018. Dosage 3.5g/l. John McIlwain (Pre-arrival, wine arrives 7/23)
Located just south of Bergères and east of Vertus, Doquet has well-situated vines on Le Mont Aimé, a premier cru hill of chalk, silex and sand rather than the purer chalk of the rest of the Côte des Blancs. The vineyard sight is south-facing, but is still cooler than Doquest's parcels in Le Mesnil or Vertus. Pascal's Mont Aimé is mineral flinty, and briny on the palate. It is rare to encounter cuvées from Mont Aimé, so this is a treat; even more so in the excellent 2008 vintage. John McIlwain (Pre-arrival, wine arrives 7/23.)
A selection of the oldest and best of Pascal's organically-farmed vines in Vertus. This rich, Chardonnay-based Champagne from Vertus displays the precision of the chalky soils and the rich broadness of the clay. Long lees-aging and the terroir result in broad, elegantly textured wines with a deep, earthy undercurrent. (Pre-arrival, wine arrives 7/23.)