Bruno Lupin, the legend of Frangy (importers website)

Bruno Lupin's 2019 Old Vine Mondeuse from Frangy is essential drinking for any Savoie-nut... plus more of Domaine Lupin's gorgeous Altesse wines!

Share

A portion of Bruno Lupin’s vieilles vignes Mondeuse is aged in old Domaine de la Romanée-Conti barrels… which made me ask the question, “Does this wine really, really have Burgundian qualities, or is it just the fact of its DRC élevage that is making me think so?” Ryan Looper, our De Maison East rep and purveyor of the Domaine Lupin wines, suggested that it has the scent of a passetoutgrain, that lovely blend of Burgundian Pinot Noir and Gamay - and he is absolutely right: a semi-plump, woodsy, aroma with a mix of brambly fruits, and an enticing spicy, herbal tone. As figured, there isn’t much of this 2019 Mondeuse to go around. The five cases that we’re offering today is probably all we’re going to get.

In Wine Grapes, the exceptional encyclopedia by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding, and José Vouillamoz, wines made with Mondeuse are described as “aromatic, tannic and deeply coloured, with good aging potential…” I love this style, and some of my favorite Savoie producers deliver wonderful examples of it, but Bruno’s is refreshingly unique. It has an elegance. A softness and a crispness that replaces the former’s punch. Yes, it is aromatic and will absolutely age (and develop well) over a decade, but it isn’t the Alpine juggernaut you might be used to. Plus, its 12% ABV only enhances the wine's fantastic briskness.

Light in color, with a ravishingly clean magenta at its core, fading out into a clear, springy violet hue at the edges. The nose is a mix of healthy forest fruits, like red cherry and raspberry. Flowers, both red and white, accent a savory scent of orange peel and a tingle of graphite. After a moment to breathe, spicy plum, warm thyme, and faint clove thread themselves in. The palate has black cherry and cracked black pepper, with a smokiness that grows on the finish, transforming into something herbal and minty. High acidity that sticks around long after a sip, and generous tannin that especially target the gums and the sides of the tongue.

Lovely, healthy vines of Domaine Lupin (importer's website)

In the Savoie village of Frangy, not far from the border with Switzerland, Bruno organically tends a small site, roughly half a hectare, of 50-70 year old Mondeuse vines… hence the very limited quantity of bottles available. He has made a name for himself internationally with his white Altesse wines, labeled under the regionally specific title of Roussette de Savoie. If you missed out on our previous Domaine Lupin offer,  you’re in luck, as you’ll get a second chance today to secure a duo of the estate’s absolutely amazing whites along with the Mondeuse. Also, click here for a link to our earlier highlight of Bruno, which goes deeper into the domaine and it’s special location in the Savoie.

Once again, I’m stunned by Bruno’s capabilities. The DRC barrels are a nice touch, and might add a hint of Burgundian charm to this wine, but it is Bruno who has given Mondeuse another face, further encouraging Savoie drinkers to never get comfortable with what they think they know about the region and its wines. Grab a bottle, or grab a case, before our many Domaine Lupin fans fill their coffers. I predict this 2019 has the stuff to last a long, long time. Merci, Bruno - thanks for another great experience. Can’t wait to meet you someday soon! David Hatzopoulos

Domaine Lupin 2015 Frangy Cuvee du Pepe

The elegance of Domaine Lupin’s 2015 Roussette de Savoie Frangy ‘Cuvée du Pépé’ Vielles Vignes is amazing, flawlessly co-existing with (and fabulously woven around) the wines dramatic beam of minerality and high acidity. From 100% Altesse from the village of Frangy. Vines aging 60+ years, planted by Bruno Lupin's grandfather. The wine goes through full malo, before aging on the fine lees in enameled steel tanks for a year. A fiercely beautiful wine. The nose is not as lean as the younger vine bottling above. It shows less citrus and more stone fruit from the beginning. Aromas of yellow peaches and plums, along with golden apples, give a platform for fainter whiffs of black tea, sea grass, and oyster shells. The wine remains very fragrant hours after opening, losing some of the marine qualities and taking on more spice and floral character. The palate is led by rich flavors of apple and pear, along with lemon zest and freshly milled black pepper. There is a wonderful note of caramel on the finish that enhances based on the amount of time in glass, resulting in a creaminess in texture that is beyond lovely, laying over that boldly focused acidity and stoniness. This bottle should be great for another 10 years, but I obviously think the world of it today. David Hatzopoulos

  • white
  • 12 in stock
  • $29.99

  • Organic
  • Low Sulfur
Sorry, the Following have Already Sold

Domaine Lupin 2019 Vin de Savoie Mondeuse

There is nothing wrong with the meaty, concentrated Mondeuse that we all know and love... but this old vine Mondeuse from Bruno Lupin is something else. From half a hectare of 60-70 year old Mondeuse vines on the slopes of Frangy in the Savoie. Organically farmed grapes are fermented naturally in the Lupin cellar. Aging is done partially in ex-DRC barrels for 9 months. Light in color, with a ravishing magenta at its core, fading out into a clear, springy violet hue at the edges. The nose is a mix of healthy forest fruits, like red cherry and raspberry. Flowers, both red and white, accent a savory scent of orange peel and a tingle of graphite. After a moment to breathe, spicy plum, warm thyme and black pepper thread themselves with the wine's established, subtle bouquet of flowers, fruit, and earth. The palate has black cherry and pepper, with a smokiness that grows on the finish, transforming into something herbal and minty. High acidity that sticks around long after a sip, and generous tannin that especially targets the gums and the sides of the tongue. This wine will develop with a decant. I would also recommend putting a few in the cellar, as this wine will no doubt take on more complex flavors after 4 or 5 years laying down. What a beautiful, refreshing style of Mondeuse. Bruno, you've delivered another incredible wine, merci. I only wish you could make more of it! David Hatzopoulos

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $28.99

  • Organic
  • Low Sulfur

Domaine Lupin 2018 Frangy

Domaine Lupin’s 2018 Roussette de Savoie Frangy is a knock-out at $25. From organically tended vines of Altesse on the outskirts of Frangy in Savoie. Vines are 25 years of age and planted to clay and limestone soils. Fermented in steel, with 20% going through malo . A full nose of almonds, white flowers, lemons, limes, firm yellow cherries and crushed limestone waft from the glass in hearty, saline-laced waves. The palate is pronounced, with flavors of small, crisp yellow and green apples, green tea, lemon grass, and a wonderful bitter kiss that extends well after the fruit disappears. As the wine opens, the aromas and flavors fatten and take on notes of richer, sweeter nectarines, kumquat, and apricot. The ballast of this wine is the zing of glorious acid that relaxes only slightly from the beginning to the end of the bottle. A wine to drink now, but given the amount of energy packed in here, I’d say best drinking will be in three years and last just shy of a decade. David Hatzopoulos

  • Out of Stock
  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $24.99

  • Organic
  • Low Sulfur