Domaine Lupin 2019 Vin de Savoie Mondeuse

There is nothing wrong with the meaty, concentrated Mondeuse that we all know and love... but this old vine Mondeuse from Bruno Lupin is something else. From half a hectare of 60-70 year old Mondeuse vines on the slopes of Frangy in the Savoie. Organically farmed grapes are fermented naturally in the Lupin cellar. Aging is done partially in ex-DRC barrels for 9 months. Light in color, with a ravishing magenta at its core, fading out into a clear, springy violet hue at the edges. The nose is a mix of healthy forest fruits, like red cherry and raspberry. Flowers, both red and white, accent a savory scent of orange peel and a tingle of graphite. After a moment to breathe, spicy plum, warm thyme and black pepper thread themselves with the wine's established, subtle bouquet of flowers, fruit, and earth. The palate has black cherry and pepper, with a smokiness that grows on the finish, transforming into something herbal and minty. High acidity that sticks around long after a sip, and generous tannin that especially targets the gums and the sides of the tongue. This wine will develop with a decant. I would also recommend putting a few in the cellar, as this wine will no doubt take on more complex flavors after 4 or 5 years laying down. What a beautiful, refreshing style of Mondeuse. Bruno, you've delivered another incredible wine, merci. I only wish you could make more of it! David Hatzopoulos

Domaine Lupin 2018 Frangy

Domaine Lupin’s 2018 Roussette de Savoie Frangy is a knock-out at $25. From organically tended vines of Altesse on the outskirts of Frangy in Savoie. Vines are 25 years of age and planted to clay and limestone soils. Fermented in steel, with 20% going through malo . A full nose of almonds, white flowers, lemons, limes, firm yellow cherries and crushed limestone waft from the glass in hearty, saline-laced waves. The palate is pronounced, with flavors of small, crisp yellow and green apples, green tea, lemon grass, and a wonderful bitter kiss that extends well after the fruit disappears. As the wine opens, the aromas and flavors fatten and take on notes of richer, sweeter nectarines, kumquat, and apricot. The ballast of this wine is the zing of glorious acid that relaxes only slightly from the beginning to the end of the bottle. A wine to drink now, but given the amount of energy packed in here, I’d say best drinking will be in three years and last just shy of a decade. David Hatzopoulos

Domaine Lupin 2015 Frangy Cuvee du Pepe (2/23)

The elegance of Domaine Lupin’s 2015 Roussette de Savoie Frangy ‘Cuvée du Pépé’ Vielles Vignes is amazing, flawlessly co-existing with (and fabulously woven around) the wines dramatic beam of minerality and high acidity. From 100% Altesse from the village of Frangy. Vines aging 60+ years, planted by Bruno Lupin's grandfather. The wine goes through full malo, before aging on the fine lees in enameled steel tanks for a year. A fiercely beautiful wine. The nose is not as lean as the younger vine bottling above. It shows less citrus and more stone fruit from the beginning. Aromas of yellow peaches and plums, along with golden apples, give a platform for fainter whiffs of black tea, sea grass, and oyster shells. The wine remains very fragrant hours after opening, losing some of the marine qualities and taking on more spice and floral character. The palate is led by rich flavors of apple and pear, along with lemon zest and freshly milled black pepper. There is a wonderful note of caramel on the finish that enhances based on the amount of time in glass, resulting in a creaminess in texture that is beyond lovely, laying over that boldly focused acidity and stoniness. This bottle should be great for another 10 years, but I obviously think the world of it today. David Hatzopoulos