The vines of the legendary Clos Saint Jacques (Courtesy of Louis/Dressner Selections).

Sylvie Esmonin - A Gevrey Maverick

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Though I spent some time working in Gevrey-Chambertin, I never had the opportunity to taste at Domaine Sylvie Esmonin. I've always wanted to - she has a reputation among her peers and consumers alike as thoughtful and warm and who enjoys talking about her wines. I met her only briefly when an enormous truck that was supposed to be delivering bottles to her facility nearly got stuck in my employer's driveway after getting the address wrong. She watched quietly, with some amusement, as the driver slowly navigated his way out of the jam and then up the road to her door. But on the few occasions I've had the chance to taste her wines, I've always thought them exemplary. It's a treat to have a chance to offer them out today. 

Sylvie Esmonin stands out from the rest of the A-list in Gevrey in a number of ways but there are two I find particularly noteworthy. First, she has been farming organically for many years. The village is full of terrific growers but they have on the whole been relatively slow to make these adjustments in the vineyards. While not certified, she and her father began ridding the vines of chemicals starting in 1990. She also uses a high percentage of whole clusters in virtually all of her wines. The classic Gevrey profile has always leaned towards the most delicate of red fruits, particularly strawberries. As a result, growers tend to de-stem most or all of their fruit. The stem inclusion chez Sylvie gives an extra dimension to those sweet red fruits - baking spices, white pepper, dried flowers - as well as freshness, essential as Burgundy grows ever warmer. 

These are terrific wines, in an outstanding vintage. We have talked at length in the past about 2017 in Burgundy. It brought a great sigh of relief among growers after a series of disasters. There was plenty of wine and those wines were juicy and energetic. It is the kind of vintage that Sylvie Esmonin excels in. We hope you will take advantage of this offer for some truly distinct and wonderful Burgundies. 

Sam Ehrlich

Esmonin, Sylvie 2017 Côtes-de-Nuits Villages

From 50 to 85 year-old vines in "La Croix Violette" and "Les Vignois," mid-slope in Brochon, close to Fixin. 30% whole cluster fermentation in 30% new oak. This showed a bit of reduction on opening but cleared up with a spin in a decanter and left us with a lovely serious Cote de Nuits Village. There is more dark cherry and raspberry  here and a dark spiciness from both the stems and the wood. The texture and structure here is compelling and there is real mineral intensity in the finish. This will easily age for 5-10 years and provide terrific value down the road. Sam Ehrlich

  • red
  • 8 in stock
  • $54.99

Esmonin, Sylvie 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes

From the oldest vines, up to 95 years-old, 60% whole cluster fermentation, aged in 60% new oak.

  • red
  • 9 in stock
  • $94.99

  • Organic
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Esmonin, Sylvie 2017 Bourgogne Cuvée Sylvie

From 65 year-old vines in Pressonniers, south of the village. 100% de-stemmed, no new oak. This is a tremendous Bourgogne Rouge and the only wine Sylvie ferments completely de-stems. The nose and palate are redolent with ripe strawberries and cherries and a spice note that reminds me of rooibos tea. There is terrific acidity, excellent length and a general sense of lift. Not difficult to polish off the bottle and open a second in short order. Delicious. Sam Ehrlich

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $42.99

  • Organic

Esmonin, Sylvie 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos-Saint-Jacques

From 45 to 55 year-old vines in 1.6 hectares with parcels at all three levels of the slope, 70% whole cluster fermentation, aged in 90% new oak. Always the class of the Sylvie Esmonin lineup, the Clos St. Jacques consistently illustrates why many consider the vineyard to be of Grand Cru breed.

***Due to short supply on this ever-more soughtafter wine, this is limited to one per customer***

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $184.99

  • Organic