Ducroux 2020 Vin de France Prologue

Christian Ducroux' 5 hectare  estate has been organic and biodynamic since 1985, and has operated as a nearly self-sufficient farm, producing its own fertilizer and compost, and plowing and harvesting almost entirely without machinery. The vines average over 60 years of age and are replaced by massale selection, giving extremely low yields and low levels of alcohol. Christian's farming is among the most thoughtful and inspired practiced anywhere in the world and his wines express this work in a joyful natural way. "Faites des vins peu alcoolisés avec un joli parfum" said Jules Chauvet (Make wines low in alcohol and with lovely aromas) and no one does this better than Christian - The 2020 Prologue weighs in at 11% alcohol despite the extra ripeness of what is shaping up to be another excellent vintage in Beaujolais, and shows a bright red/purple color with  aromas of crushed strawberry and blackberry with violet, white pepper, plum skin, blood orange and radish greens - really wild and wonderful. The palate is light, bright and refreshing with strawberry compote, blackberry and earth - meaty and mineral with pure bright berry fruits and stony flavors in the thirst-quenching finish. The 2020 Prologue is a lively, very alive and simply beautiful wine that takes you into the soils of Ducroux' vineyards and is a tonic for the soul. Zero added sulfur, keep cool - highly recommended for lovers of natural wines!  David Lillie

Lapalu 2019 Beaujolais-Villages Vieilles Vignes

 The 2019 Lapalu Beaujolais Villages is a selection of old vines (50 to 80 years-old) from several plots with a density of 11,000 plants per hectare. Mostly mid-slope, south-east facing early ripening parcels on sandy granite soils. Whole cluster carbonic fermentation in stainless steel vats with indigenous yeasts, maceration of 10 to 12 days, aged on the fine lees for 7 months in concrete vats. 10 mg/liter of SO2 added only before bottling. This is the kind of Beaujolais that people get nostalgic for, bursting with juicy crisp red berries and a modeling clay earthiness, buoyed by plenty of acidity and a certain weightlessness that makes it very easy to empty one bottle and reach for another. Stock up as we head into warmer weather - this is ideal picnic wine.  Sam Ehrlich

Lapalu 2019 Brouilly Vieilles Vignes

2019 Jean-Claude Lapau Brouilly VV. On a fine spring night (after a particularly raw one) what better way to spend the evening than catching up on samples. Some hits, some misses, and some of which we needn’t speak. What do we have here but the Brouilly VV from dedicated bio vigneron Lapalu, a grower whose wines I remember fondly from the 2014 vintage. The wine has a brilliant dark ruby robe and a slight prickle of CO2. Is this the bright fresh Beaujolais a certain Berkeley wine merchant described in his book? Seems it is. The palate is racy and lithe on the attack, all cherry, cherry stone, and bosky raspberry tang. The slight spritz reinforces that wild berry sensation—so ripe, so fresh, so juicy! But for all the bramble and fruits du bois exuberance, there is a definitive spine of graphite, granular stone to place this in one of the Beaujolais crus. And this nearly stern core frames all the joyous fruit and keeps it from veering into blowsy or insubstantial. But it’s that same bumptious gamay expressiveness that beckons one for the next sip and the sip after that. Quite a feat and a fine quality with a pan-roasted pork chop with a mustard/ramp pan sauce, and preceding saucisson. There’s enough character and savory soil tone here to warrant opening a bottle with a lamb navarin, or better still a morel ragout over polenta. This is lovely stuff and its vibrant character is a piquant reminder that Beaujolais is above all a wine to quench thirst and spark joy at the table.

Lapalu 2019 Brouilly La Croix des Rameaux

Now we're talking! This feels several levels up from the villages, with a fruit profile leaning more toward ripe strawberry and black cherry and more intensity in the mid-palate on the way to a long and fairly mouthwatering finish. There is plenty of savory white pepper and brambly underbrush character to give depth here but no heaviness or alcohol fatigue. This is quite excellent and will serve you well whether you choose to drink it now or in a few years time. Sam Ehrlich

Chamonard 2018 Fleurie La Madone

A rare and delicious Fleurie from Jean-Claude Chanudet at Domaine Chamonard! Since taking over from his father-in-law (Joseph Chamonard) in 1990, Jean-Claude has been keeping the beautiful natural traditions of this estate alive. This Fleurie comes from a single parcel of older vines planted on a steep slope of pink granite soils, farmed by hand without the use of any chemicals. 2018 is a great vintage for the Chamonard Fleurie, showing a deep dark red color and ripe fruit compote aromas - a lovely melange of cherry and black raspberry with violet and citrus notes. The palate is lush, with an earthy texture, showing ripe, well-structured  black fruits and finishing with firm acidity and tart black cherry. This is superb now but should open up beautifully with a few years of cellaring. Drink until 2035? Highly recommended.  David Lillie

Ducroux, Christian 2019 Vin de France Esquisse Rosé

  The 2019 "Esquisse" Rosé seemed a bit lighter than the 2018, showing a pretty orange/pink color with aromas of citrus and raspberry, with subtle red fruits on the palate, fresh and silky with a clean mineral finish - a rosé that should gain in complexity over the next 3 - 5 years. David Lillie