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I recently (and reluctantly) threw away a finished bottle of Marnes Blanches Vin Jaune 2011. It had actually been empty for a while. Its hollow glass body had lived like a religious icon on my writing desk. I found it inspiring, as every time I looked at it I was reminded of the wine's beautiful development over five days of drinking - how it morphed from something lean, a mix of perky lemons and smoky dried grass, into something more obviously intoxicating, with dangerously seductive layers of honeyed fruit, salt, and a comforting, soft mouthfeel. This bottle had been my first real venture into the "Jura Special," vin jaune, and it was so gratifying in taste, so textured an experience, that it retained its spirit long after I tipped out its last golden drop.
Today we're offering our remaining bottles of this vin jaune along with other fantastic selections from the Jura. Talk to any Jura-fanatic, and they'll no doubt have their own stories of transcendental moments with Trousseau, Poulsard, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Savagnin. Even the bubbles are known for exceptional quality, flying off the shelves faster than we can keep them stocked.
We've got a small number of very allocated items from Buronfosse, the last few cases of Tissot's most revered wines (all but one from the crazy wonderful vintage of '18), a duo of delicious, earthy (and affordable) reds from Domaine Villet, and a big bottle from the rarely-seen Domaine de L'Octavin.
Grab what you can - and keep the empties! David Hatzopoulos
Pinot Noir from Peggy and Jean-Pascal Buronfosse. Located in the same village as renowned producer, Ganevat, this couple first moved out of the city with hopes of owning a farm. However, they quickly began purchasing vines and now create some of the most sought after wines from the village of La Combe de Rotalier.
"En Barberon" is 10ha of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines planted along Bréry- a bucolic village that connects Arbois and Chateau-Chalon. The heavy marl soils here provide the foil to Stéphane Tissot's fresh and delicate "Graviers" selection based on limestone soils in Curon. The Chardonnay from this site tends to be dense, rich, and broad, and the Pinot Noir shows some reduction and spice, which Stéphane attributes to the clay soils. The Pinot Noir is made using whole-clusters in order to preserve the juice that Stéphane feels the grape loses if he de-stems.
Chardonnay from single vineyard in Arbois. Vines planted to Trias clay soil on south facing slope.
An exceptional, terroir-driven Chardonnay from the heavy clay soils of Stéphane Tissot's Mailloche vineyard. In 2018 this is close to the "Tour du Curon" in quality.
This is a fun, refreshing traditional method sparkler from winemaker/farmer Geraud Fromont in the Jura. 100% Chardonnay, with most of the blend from the 2018 harvest, is fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks and left on the lees for 15 months before bottling with no dosage and no SO2. On the nose is firm golden apple and crushed white rock, and on the palate is apple, fresh grass, a bit of sea-salt, and a touch of bitter herbs, with very soft bubbles. A solid choice for aperitif, that's meant to be fun and not overly complex.
Trousseau-based red from Peggy and Jean-Pascal Buronfosse. Located in the same village as renowned producer, Ganevat, this couple first moved out of the city with hopes of owning a farm. However, they quickly began purchasing vines and now create some of the most sought after wines from the village of La Combe de Rotalier.
Savagnin from Peggy and Jean-Pascal Buronfosse. Located in the same village as renowned producer, Ganevat, this couple first moved out of the city with hopes of owning a farm. However, they quickly began purchasing vines and now create some of the most sought after wines from the village of La Combe de Rotalier.
Bright bubbles from Peggy and Jean-Pascal! From a mix of Chardonnay and Savagnin grown on soils of limestone and clay. Vine age is 70 years and the vineyards are farmed organically. Fermentation happens in stainless steel with native yeasts. The wine is bottled with zero added SO2.
From Stéphane Tissot's Biodynamic vineyard in Arbois, named for Stéphane's father, Andre "DD" Tissot. This is a delicious blend of Trousseau, Poulsard, and Pinot Noir co-fermented in 2000L foudres. Serve slightly chilled and enjoy with a variety of cheeses, roasted chicken, or on its own!
The vines for the Sursis are found in Chateau Chalon. Tissot purchased this parcel in 2007. "Sursis" means "on parole," and Tissot will keep producing this wine as long as the vines give him grapes. Lias type clay. A shorter elevage than other whites (only 12 months).
A traditional Savagnin from the Jura, this wine is made in the oxidative sous-voile style.
The Crémant rosé from Stéphane Tissot’s biodynamic estate in Arbois is fantastically refined, structured, and fully-dry. This is a blend of directly-pressed Pinot Noir, Trousseau, and a bit of Poulsard. The robe shows a vibrant pink hue with orange flecks in the glass. The nose offers aromas of crushed raspberries, delicate quince, orange blossom, and ripe strawberries. The palate is lush and fruit-forward, yet dry with a fine mousse, minerals, and subtle notes of brown spice. We love this sparkler for its ability to strike a perfect balance between complexity and easy enjoyment. This is unequivocally the Champagne of beers of Crémant. Amanda Bowman
As mentioned, Domaine Villet is a family estate that was started in 1900, and was converted to organic viticulture in 1988, making them one of the first estates in the region to do so. Gérard felt the results were better with organic agriculture, so he eliminated the use of chemical fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides, and synthetic fungicides, favoring the use of manure, compost and organic elements. Around the turn of the (21st) century, the only treatments used in the vineyard were copper (bouillie bordelaise) for mildew, and sulfur for oïdium. Since then, they have been minimizing the use of the copper and sulfur in the vineyard and relying instead on plant extracts, such as tea nettle, prêle (horsetail), willows, dandelions, and the like. Gérard believes firmly that vignerons must be working in the vines throughout the year in order to be attentive to the health of the vines and to reduce risks. He lets natural grasses grow but tills to limit proliferation. He only uses natural yeast in vinification, as he feels yeasts that are introduced are standardized and lead to a uniformity of taste, whereas natural yeasts allow the terroir to be fully expressed. Sulfur is used in moderation (typically 20 mg per liter added at bottling to cover transport). Eben Lillie
Alice Bouvot and Charles Dagand are at the helm of this small Demeter-certified Biodynamic estate in Arbois. They are known for their very natural, and somewhat atypical, wines that are pure expressions of grape and terroir. They never fine or filter and similarly never use any SO2 during the winemaking process. This cuvee is 100% Trousseu from the Les Corvées vineyard not far from the village of Montigny-lès-Arsures. The grapes are partially destemmed and see seven months of skin maceration during which there is no pigeage or remontage.
The Savagnin vines that make the fruit for this bottle were planted almost 70 years ago. After a direct pressing, the wine goes into neutral barrique, in a special cellar for Marnes Blanches' "sous voile" bottlings. The wine will age for for at least 6 years before release. The barrels begin at the top level of the cellar, where conditions (heat and humidity) help the flor (layer of dead yeast cells) grow quickly. As the wine ages, it is moved lower and lower into the cellar.