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Gregoletto 2017 Colli Trevignani Verdiso
Verdiso grows alongside Glera, the primary grape used to make Prosecco, and it’s usually blended with Glera to give some extra zip to Prosecco; it turns out that on its own it can be a delight. To start, Gregoletto’s indigenous-yeast fermented Verdiso has been picked fully ripe, but it’s only 11.5° alcohol, and it has much more complexity and presence than you might expect from a light wine. Aromatically it gives lots of fruit – green apple, and (even though my acquaintance with them is slight) gooseberries came to mind – in any event there’s plenty of crisp fruit, with chalky and appealing leafy notes. It’s steely and very high-toned, and surprisingly persistent, with pear and honey on the lingering finish. We drank more of the bottle than usual (with a green pea and mushroom risotto), but there was enough left to taste again, and 3 days later the wine was bright and vivid, and perhaps even more complex. Wine geeks will find this very satisfying (esp. at $15.99!), but it’s a potential hit with anyone even slightly adventurous in your pod who would otherwise ask for a more standardized, Pinot Grigio kind of wine.This was in December, and I thought I should wait for warmer weather. Jamie Wolff