Rippon 2019 Wanaka Lake Gewurztraminer

I know what you're thinking, "why would I drink Gewurztraminer from New Zealand?", but hear me out. This is one of the finest expressions of an oft misunderstood variety, that I have ever had. Rippon has always been a trail-blazer, having planted the first vitus vinifera vines in Central Otago. They never irrigate and have been farming biodynamically since 2003 to support the health of the soil and their team. The Gewurztraminer vines were planted between 1986-93 on their own rootstock. The juice is kept on the skins for two days and then 10% is reserved to be fermented off-dry, with the remaining 90% fermented dry before being blended together. This makes the final wine the slightest bit off-dry, giving it great balance between the remarkably high acidity (for this variety), that kiss of sugared apricot from the off-dry reserve, and long mineral finish recalling the schist and loess soils. The aromatics are bursting with notes of white lilies and stone fruit, but instead of being overpowering it is tempered by a salty savory note from the extended lees aging. Drink this with spicy thai food or on its own as you envision this gorgeous, lakeside New Zealand vineyard. Michelle DeWyngaert

Mick Craven 2020 Stellenbosch Cinsaut

This vintage of the Craven Cinsault is from the 30+ year-old Rustenhof vineyard in the Faure area which sits on granitic sandy soils just three miles from the ocean. It is farmed organically with the use of cover crops to enhance the vitality of the soil, and in turn, we believe, enhances the wine. For this bottling the grapes are destemmed and gently extracted during fermentation. The juice is then pressed into 500L neutral barrels where it ages for just seven months before bottling unfined and unfiltered. The result is bright, juicy red and purple plum aromas, crushed violets, and savory charcuterie. The palate is soft and supple, with minimal tannins, and finishes with a snap of red currant. Drink slightly chilled, perfect on its own or with lighter proteins. Michelle DeWyngaert

David Hill 2019 Willamette Valley 6000 BC

A delicious and aromatic skin-contact white blend of 60% Gewurztraminer, 40% Pinot Gris! The name of the wine refers to the type of qvevri (clay amphorae) used for fermentation,  discovered in Georgia  in 6000BC, largely thought to be the first occurrence wine-making in the world. Their technique of fermenting white grapes as whole clusters, skins and all, inspired Chad Stock when creating this bottling. The fruit is fermented on the skins at low temperatures giving it a gentler tannic structure, and then aged for ten months in 75% neutral barrels, 25% third-use French oak. Notes of ripe juicy apricots, sea salt, almond blossoms, and a burst of classic Gewurz spiciness on the palate. Michelle DeWyngaert

David Hill 2019 Willamette Valley Discovery Series Block 16

Just a few bottles left of this  beautiful Sylvaner from the Willamette Valley! It's not often I get to taste an example of Sylvaner from Oregon let alone from vines planted  55+ years ago. Winemaker Chad Stock seems to coax the most amount of flavor from this often subtle variety. The fruit is fermented and aged in 25% neutral barrique and 75% stainless steel. The aroma is vibrant, juicy kiwi and melon, soft white flowers, and on the palate crisp, fresh fruit and lime zest, with a stony, river-rock minerality. Michelle DeWyngaert

David Hill 2019 Willamette Valley Estate Pinot Noir

An incredible value from some of the oldest vines in the Willamette Valley! This vineyard (previously named the Charles Coury Vineyard) was actually first established as the Rueter family homestead in 1883, but because Prohibition the vines were ripped out and eventually replanted in 1965 from a handful of Alsatian and Burgundian vines. Today the estate, which sits on the northern border of Willamette at an elevation of 360-625ft elevation on Laurelwood soil, is organically and dry farmed amongst an array of beehives and cover crops. The fruit is separated by block/clone, blended together for the perfect balance and then aged for 11 months in 10% new French oak. The 2019 estate Pinot Noir is incredibly satisfying; sapid, luscious, blackberry bramble, dusty soil, soft herbs and just a kiss of sweet spices. Yum! Michelle DeWyngaert

Broc Cellars 2019 Solano County Green Valley Le Clairet "The Perfect Red"

Deemed "The Perfect Red" for its supreme drinkability and sheer "yumminess", the 'Le Clairet' is 95% Cabernet Sauvignon with 5% Carignan (145 year old vines!) sourced from the iron-rich Wirth Vineyard in Solano County. Most of the Cabernet is destemmed, with a small amount left as whole clusters to line the bottom of the tank. Fermented spontaneously and pressed off the skins early to minimize the tannins, though there is still some good structure here. The Carignan , fermented carbonically to add freshness, is blended in right before bottling. Chewy red fruits and a touch of soft herbs with a medium-to-full body, it really is the perfect California red for just about any occasion. Michelle DeWyngaert

Chateau de Leberon Solera Ténarèze Armagnac 750ml

The Chateau de Leberon has been in the family for four generations, focused on crafting a spirit that wholly reflects their micro-terroir by using all estate-grown fruit, and even estate-grown wood for their barrels. As all of their other bottlings are vintage-dated, in 2001 a solera, or "cellar master's cask" was started, with minimum 3-year-old spirit being added each year, as a portion is bottled. The nose is elegant and high-toned, a bit floral even, with cherry blossom mingling with caramel and spice. The palate has a lightness to it, though far from "thin," with a touch of cinnamon heat on the finish. Opens up nicely with a small splash of water!  Michelle DeWyngaert

Jacky Navarre Vielle Reserve Cognac Grande Fine Chamapagne Cravache d'Or

Jacky Navarre is a testament to the undeniability of great Cognac. He farms his own vineyard by hand, in this case using 100% Ugni Blanc, ferments with indigenous yeast, and allows this spirit to age for 30 years before release. He never uses color, caramel, boise, or even water; preferring to let evaporation bring the spirits down to proof.  His barrels are employed used so as not to overwhelm the palate with oak spice. The flavor is both powerfully concentrated and delicate simultaneously.  Notes of flan, vanilla bean, red apple linger on the palate, and at 45% ABV, I recommend drinking this neat. Michelle DeWyngaert

Domaine d'Aurensan 1990 Armagnac-Ténarèze Single Cask (Ordered on Reques

This single vintage, single cask Armagnac from Domaine d'Aurensan is a thing of beauty! Bottled in November of 2020 after 30 years in casks it is showing splendidly. I hate to be unnecessarily hyperbolic, but my first tasting note is "divine." The Domaine consists of five hectares of vineyards on clay/limestone soils, and are now transitioning to organic and biodynamic farming. In the cellar and distillery they are similarly-minded, using only indigenous yeasts for fermentation, no sulfur,  aged in local Gascogne oak barrels, and in the finished product, absolutely no additions, not even water. A whopping 65% is given up to the "Angel's share" bringing this down naturally to a 40.3% ABV. Notes of slow-roasted, cinnamon-crusted street cart nuts (in the  best sense), baked apple, cedar box, dried figs and creme brûlée. Michelle DeWyngaert

**Ordered upon Request**

Champ des Treilles 2019 Sainte-Foy Bordeaux Le Petit Champ

Deep red with lighter red edges. The nose here is pretty, grassy, with dark flowers and a hint of warm spices like cumin and paprika. On the palate, the wine has engaging tannin that border very well between the chewy structure and the woven, silky mouthfeel. Red cherry, something dark and candied, and a touch of date. A gleam of dark mineral tone firms up the finish. A great wine, especially for the price point. Give it three hours open if you'd like to taste the best of it, though still good of the get-go.

Doquet, Pascal NV (2009 base) Champagne Diapason Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs

This excellent 100% Chardonnay from certified organic vigneron Pascal Doquet is an excellent example of a non-vintage blanc des blancs sourced from Les-Mesnil-sur-Oger, one of Champagne's most famed grand cru villages. Base vintage 2009 (61%),  reserve wine (31%), fermented and aged in a combination of enamel tank and neutral barrel. The robe is a pale golden yellow. The nose offers an attractive array of white fruits, lemon blossom, chalk, and biscuit aromas. The palate is energetic and layered with fine flavors of lemon curd, seashell, and a bit of the classic Mesnil quinine profile. This has an incisive briny chalk character and an ethereal elegance, with room for further development. Disgorged January 31st, 2018. Dosage 3.5g/l. John McIlwain (Pre-arrival, wine arrives 7/23)

Christian Venier 2019 Cheverny "Les Hauts de Madon" Rouge

The Hauts de Madon is a serious Cheverny Rouge, NOT for kicking back and taking lightly. 80% Pinot Noir/20% Gamay, with plenty of trademark Venier spice, almost referencing Languedoc aromatics of thyme and rosemary. 2019 was a year with great material, like 2018 and given that this is the more significant of Venier's cuvées, this will surely benefit from some age. If drinking now give it a proper decant and a very slight chill. -EL 

Christian Venier 2019 Cheverny Rouge La Pierre Aux Chiens

La Pierre aux Chiens is a tiny part of the red production at the Venier estate, and available intermittently in the US. Unlike most Cheverny reds that are blends of Gamay and Pinot Noir, this is 100% Pinot Noir. Though young and a bit burly when it first arrived early last Fall, it should be starting to mellow out now and will drink well for many years. There is some structure and power here, so do keep in mind it's more of a hearty than a pretty, delicate Pinot Noir.  -EL 

Bonhomme, Pierre-Olivier 2018 Vin de France La Tesniere Blanc (Menu Pineau)

This is an incredibly compelling, unique white from Touraine highlighting the lesser-know grape varitety, Menu Pineau. The 'La Tesnière' white is a blend of 75% Menu Pineau and 25% Chenin Blanc, from a parcel adjacent to the famed Clos Roche Blanche. A beautiful golden color in the glass with notes of grapefruit, daffodil, yellow peach, and marzipan on the nose. The palate is bright and refreshing, but Chenin's often bracing acidity is softened by the Menu Pineau, and the finish has a lingering stony texture. Michelle DeWyngaert

Villemade, Herve 2018 Vin de France Orbois

Hervé Villemade has been working his family's vines in Cellettes since taking over from his father in 1995. Today, the estate represents about 22 hectares of organically farmed fruit within the Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny AOCs. Hervé makes seriously soulful wines, with minimal or zero SO2. Our tasting with him in Angers last winter was fantastic and one of the standouts was this vibrant new cuvée of Orbois (Menu Pineau) made from 50 year old vines on clay and flint. 2/3 direct press, fermented and aged on the lees in 20hl concrete eggs, 1/3  macerated for 15-20 days, fermented and aged on the lees in a small concrete egg. The wine shows a bright gold/bronze color and aromas of lemon zest, almond, caramel, honeysuckle, dried pear and apricot. The palate is dense and round but with bright acidity, with ripe peach, citrus peel, stone, apricot and candied citrus with fabulous length. This distictive Menu Pineau will accompany a full-flavored ceviche. fish and chicken in sauce and goat cheeses, or just sip on its own. Lovey wine!  David Lillie

Villemade, Hervé 2018 Cheverny Blanc "La Bodice"

Hervé Villemade's extraordinary Cheverny Blanc "La Bodice" comes from a single vineyard of 40 year-old vines on sandy soils with silex on clay of Sologne, where the 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Chardonnay reach maximum ripeness and expression. Yield is only about 10 hl/ha. The wine ages on the lees in old barrels for a year or more and is bottled with zero or minimal SO2. The wine shows a pale bronze color and  notes of fresh and candied fruit (pear, quince, apple) nuanced by angelica and fennel, with a dense, even almost "tannic" texture, and quite sapid, nourished by aging on the fine lees. The substance, elegance and length on the palate give this wine a real personality and a great aptitude for pairings with complex fish and white meat dishes or goat cheeses.

Lequin-Colin 2018 Bourgogne Rouge

Honest Burgundy at this price is an increasingly rare bird these days. From two vineyards in Santenay with EcoCert certification, the 2018 is full and round upon opening, with juicy raspberry and black cherry fruit, baking spices and a touch of cola. But with air, it gains tension and elegance and the Burgundy minerality becomes more apparent. This is very satisfying and will likely improve, but why wait? Bottled under screwcap. Sam Ehrlich

Catherine Riss 2018 Alsace Dessous de Table (Auxerrois/Sylvaner)

60% Pinot Auxerrois/40% Sylvaner. Honeydew Melon, stone fruit, white flowers on the nose. Though a touch volatile at first, it blows off after about 15 minutes. Lemon-curd and hay notes on the palate. Though overall a relatively soft wine, there's a precise mineral side coming from the sandstone soils that lends a long dry finish to the wine.  -Eben

Catherine Riss 2018 Alsace De Gres ou de Force (Riesling)

A fantastic dry Riesling from Catherine Riss, arguably the hardest working woman in Alsace! Intense lime and lime blossom notes on the nose, with a perfect balance between density and acidity. Medium weight with stone fruit on palate and almost a bit of fat. Still mineral as ever with wild herbs in finish.   -Eben

Catherine Riss 2018 Alsace Pinot Noir Empriente

La Florane 2019 Visan À Fleur de Pampre Blanc

Adrien Fabre (partner of Claire Michel of Le Vieux Donjon in Châteauneuf-du-Pape) is making lovely wines at his small estate in Visan (Côtes-du-Rhône Villages). Organic and Biodynamic farming. The "Fleur de Pampre" (vine flower) white is made from an intriguing blend of 60% Marsanne, 20% Bourboulenc, 10% Roussanne, 10% Viognier with Grenache Blanc and Clairette, grown on galet stone, clay and limestone soils. DrinkRhone: "pale yellow colour; the bouquet is nicely suave, with a steady aroma of white fruits, pear and apple foremost, all nicely together. There’s a hint of aniseed. The palate drinks really well, has a honeyed note, tasty peach fruit flavours, with a little softening on the orderly, clear finish. This is well made Visan blanc, shows its freshness well, and has style to boot. Its purity, which involves good fruit definition and saltiness, is excellent." Serve as an aperitif, with appetizers, fish and white meats in sauce, Asian foods.

La Florane 2019 CDRV Visan À Fleur de Pampre Rouge

Adrien Fabre (partner of Claire Michel of Le Vieux Donjon in Châteauneuf-du-Pape) is making lovely wines at his small estate in Visan (Côtes-du-Rhône Villages). Organic and Biodynamic farming on clay soils. The "Fleur de Pampre" (vine flower) rouge is made from Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Carignan. DrinkRhone loves it: "...attractive red-purple robe. The bouquet is expressive, orderly, leads on black cherry fruit, has an appealing sweetness, a plump invitation, shows licorice and an intriguing note of iodine, a note of grilling. The attack moves well, offers instant black fruits, blueberries and blackberries with a cluster of powdery tannins on the finish. The fruit surges well in the closing moments; it’s on the go already, and will go well with steaks, grills, pasta dishes." Drink this delicious wine over the next few years - it's a great value!

Ilarria 2017 Irouléguy Rouge Sans Soufre (1/25)

Beginning in 2008, Peio Espil at Domaine Ilarria has produced a vibrant red from 40% Tannat, 35% Cabernet Franc and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon made with no additives and zero added SO2.The vines are grown in organic"no-till" vineyards on limestone soils, on slopes above the village of Irouleguy. The goal is to create living soils which bring needed micro-nutrients and natural defenses to the vine. The wine ages for 18 months in 3 and 4 year-old barrriques, and despite the lack of sulfur, will age beautifully for ten to fifteen years. While we have enjoyed this wine in many vintages, the 2017 is the best we have experienced. Upon opening, the nose shows a definitive Cabernet character, full of crushed violets, green pepper and dark fruit but expands with air, taking on a savory walnut-bread character. On the palate, there is still that echo of black fruit, a core of  ferrous, iron-like minerality and fine ripe tannins that all remind me a bit of old-school Bandol. It would doubtless improve with a decant. This is world-class sans soufre winemaking, at once precise and seemingly unshackled.                               Sam Ehrlich/David Lillie

Ilarria 2017 Irouléguy Blanc

From organically certified vineyards, 1 ha dedicated to Petit Manseng and 1 ha to Petit Courbu, permaculture-pioneer Peio Espil offers a very unique interpretation of Irouléguy Blanc as he is one of the few growing grapes on Trias limestone, a soil so hard he had to use dynamite to plant the vines. No tilling, use of ewes to graze the spontaneous vegetation and compost the soils leads to balanced yields of very concentrated grapes. Harvested almost at the same time despite the fact Petit Courbu is usually an earlier ripening grape than Petit Manseng (Petit Courbu has usually dense cluster and thinner skin berries, but not at Ilarria thanks to the farming), both see some skin maceration (6 hours or so for the Petit Courbu, 12-14 hours for the Petit Manseng) in order to extract aromatic compounds and structure, the musts are blended right away, and fermented spontaneously, with malolactic always occurring, something very rare for the region! Long fermentations are preferred for texture. A little bit of sulfites are used after the fermentation when the wine needs to be racked from inox to demi-muids from tonnellerie de l’Adour. Then the wine stays untouched on its fine lees with racking if needed. The wine is aged up to 18 months, and doesn’t need to be filtered before bottling. Sulfites are adjusted at this time for a total round 45ppm. Peio likes the 2017 as the wine is balanced with a density he likes. At 13% of alcohol, it has a surprising density with so many layers: a very complex nose of passion fruit, chamomile, yellow plum and smoked salt, the palate is very savory with a saline quality, and more dried hawthorne and thai basil leaves. It is a salivating wine with so much to give, that you want to sip on it little by little. Enjoy it today in large Burgundy glass or keep it for 10 years. For pairing, a rabbit agnolotti with dried sage or a cauliflower panna cotta with crab meat flesh and grapefruit segment. Pascaline Lepeltier.

Quinta do Regueiro 2019 Alvarinho Secreto

This is a new offering from Quinta do Regueiro, which sees a part of the juice being given extended contact with the skins and lees. It's not an orange wine, as there is another portion of the wine that is fermented without skins in the style of their Alvarinho Reserva, and because the duration of skin contact is not very long. The real result, and what the winemaker was going for, was a refined texture and density that the skins and lees can give to the Alvarinho. We were impressed with this wine (as always with Portugal, especially for the price!), and are happy that it is part of the Quinta do Regueiro lineup. Well worth a try. -EL

Borja Perez Viticultores 2018 Tenerife Artifice Blanco

100% Listán Blanco from multiple parcels in Ycoden Daute Isora (northern Tenerife). Fermented separately, the wine is then aged for 8 months - a portion of the wine in concrete tanks on the lees and the other in 500 liter barrels - before being blended and bottled with minimal addition of sulfur. This iteration of the Artifice Blanco sees some skin contact, which adds subtle structure. Tropical aromatics blend with golden fruit and a touch of nuttiness. These wines just get better and better every year: Borja Perez is definitely one of the most skilled winemakers in the Canary Islands! Eben Lillie and Ben Fletcher

Borja Perez Viticultores 2018 Tenerife Artifice Tinto

Artifice Tinto is all Listan Negro, from a variety of plots in the northern region of Tenerife. The 2018 is by far the best expression of this wine that I've tasted, all citrus rind, cranberry, strawberry, exotic spices and smokiness on the nose, with an admirably delicate light- to medium-bodied palate with gentle tannins. There's clearly some whole clusters used here, but the wine shows softer and more elegant than in previous vintages. Borja Perez's wines just keep getting better! Ben Fletcher

Envinate 2019 Almansa Albahra Chingao

100% Garnacha Tintorera, entirely from the highest single vineyard of old vines that contributes to the other "Albahra" wine. This is the first single vineyard bottling from Envinate's vines in Almansa, and it's really a great demonstration of the surprising finesse that is possible from Garnacha Tintorera (a.k.a. Alicante Bouschet). The vineyard that supplies the grapes for this wine is very special: high in altitude and blessed with white limestone soils that resemble the albariza of Jerez, it stands out from sorrounding properties. The wine is  medium bodied, initially fruit forward on the nose with notes of black cherry, blackberry preserves, and black peppercorn, the palate is fleshy but structured by limestone minerality and vibrant acidity. Approachable and easy-drinking, but thoughtful and interesting. A great addition to the 2019 wines from Envinate! Ben Fletcher

Envinate 2019 Tenerife Benje Tinto

 Listán Prieto from vineyards at around 1000-1200m near Santiago del Teide on Tenerife. This vineyard has sandy volcanic soils, and the vines are 70-100 years old. Climactically, this region is dry, windy, and continental in character, shielded from Atlantic influence by Mount Teide and elevation. The grapes are harvested by hand and fermented with indigenous yeasts with a maceration period of 10-20 days and punch-downs daily before aging for eight months in concrete and used French oak. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with a touch of sulfur. This year's Benje Tinto is open and ready to go - a great expression of the spice, minerality and intensity of Tenerife's volcanic soils paired with the delicacy and freshness of Listan Prieto.  Ben Fletcher

Envinate 2019 Almansa Garnacha Tintorera Albahra 1.5

Envinate 2019 Almansa Albahra Chingao 1.5

100% Garnacha Tintorera, entirely from the highest single vineyard of old vines that contributes to the other "Albahra" wine. This is the first single vineyard bottling from Envinate's vines in Almansa, and it's really a great demonstration of the surprising finesse that is possible from Garnacha Tintorera (a.k.a. Alicante Bouschet). The vineyard that supplies the grapes for this wine is very special: high in altitude and blessed with white limestone soils that resemble the albariza of Jerez, it stands out from sorrounding properties. The wine is  medium bodied, initially fruit forward on the nose with notes of black cherry, blackberry preserves, and black peppercorn, the palate is fleshy but structured by limestone minerality and vibrant acidity. Approachable and easy-drinking, but thoughtful and interesting. A great addition to the 2019 wines from Envinate! Ben Fletcher

Envinate 2019 Tenerife Benje Blanco Magnum

Envinate 2019 Tenerife Benje Tinto Magnum

 Listán Prieto from vineyards at around 1000-1200m near Santiago del Teide on Tenerife. This vineyard has sandy volcanic soils, and the vines are 70-100 years old. Climactically, this region is dry, windy, and continental in character, shielded from Atlantic influence by Mount Teide and elevation. The grapes are harvested by hand and fermented with indigenous yeasts with a maceration period of 10-20 days and punch-downs daily before aging for eight months in concrete and used French oak. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with a touch of sulfur. This year's Benje Tinto is open and ready to go - a great expression of the spice, minerality and intensity of Tenerife's volcanic soils paired with the delicacy and freshness of Listan Prieto.  Ben Fletcher

Envinate 2019 Tenerife Taganan Blanco Magnum

Adega Regional de Colares 2014 Colares Arenae Malvasia (500 ml)

 This is a value: Colares, let alone with age, at $30 is not something we see very often any longer. This bottling of Malvasia is from the Adega Regional, one of the standard-bearers of winemaking in the region, founded in 1931. The grapes come from the region's famed old, ungrafted vines grown on beach sand (Arenae is the local name for the sandy soils where these old vines grow ). Medium-bodied, saline, spicy, and elegantly textured, this is a classic, elegant expression of Colares Malvasia that is in an outstanding place for drinking now, or for holding onto over the next few years.  Ben Fletcher

Victoria Torres Pecis 2018 La Palma Tinto Negramoll

Victoria Torres' Negramoll comes from a variety of sites across the island at different elevations and in different microclimates. All of the vineyards are farmed organically, unirrigated, and ungrafted. Harvested at different times depending on their specific situation, they ferment separately in tanks and barrels with some stem inclusion before blending. The final wine ages for 12 months in old sherry casks.

Victoria Torres Pecis 2018 La Palma Malvasia Aromatica Seca

Malvasia from La Palma has had a reputation for quality since the 17th century. Victoria Torres' expression of the grape variety is dry, aromatic, crystalline, and very special. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts in old foudres for nine months, then rested before blending and bottling.

Victoria Torres Pecis 2018 La Palma Las Rosas (Listan Negro)

Las Rosas is on the east coast of La Palma: the plot is buffeted with intense winds. 100% Listan Negro, fermented in concrete.

Buelan Compania De Sacas No. 1 Manzanilla Fina Los Canciones (375ml)

Nick Africano of En Rama Sherry Co. and Jose Pastor Selections selected the barrel  from the almacenista Bodegas del Río that was drawn from for this beautiful bottling of manzanilla fina. This first bottling of the Buelan project, focused on barrel selected sherries, is a real triumph: classic manzanilla brininess, vibrant structuring acidity, and savory depth. Buy one before I drink the rest! Ben Fletcher

Wimmer-Czerny 2017 Wagram Roter Veltliner

Wimmer-Czerny estate has been producing Roter Veltliner wines since the 1880s, and is the source for two major clones of Roter Veltliner, so they know a thing or two about the grape! Roter is possibly related to Vitovska or yellow Traminer (different theories abound), and has an extremely high phenolic content for a white grape, with a type of acidity that has more in common with red grapes than other white grapes. Romans liked this grape, most likely because of its vitality and ripeness late in the harvest, which gave more alcohol. This is the most interesting and enjoyable Roter Veltliner I've tried and sparked a desire to try more. From 55 year old vines. There is a nice, broad texture, roundness without ripeness or "fruitiness." It does stand out as a bit different from most whites. It's hard to explain but at $20, just try one and you'll see.  -Eben

Wimmer-Czerny 2017 Wagram Gruner Veltliner Weelfel

 Wimmer-Czerny is an old estate in the Wagram, east of Vienna. In the wine world of Austria, Hans Czerny is a foremost specialist and one of the oldest practitioners of biodynamic farming, along with Nikolaus and Christine Saahs (from Nikolaihof). 2019 was a heralded vintage for Gruners, so many of the recent bottles I've opened have been from 2019, but tasting this 2017 from Wimmer-Czerny was memorable, as there is impressive length and density (perhaps from the little bit of age) for a Gruner at this price. Translation of the refreshingly unhip Wimmer-Czerny website says that Weelfel is a "top location with a special terroir." The soils are stony gravel mixed with sand and fossils. Vines grow on the upper part of terraces at about 300-370m, and because of poorer water supply, produce leaner wines that take a bit more time to develop. This wine is very nice now and should continue to age for short term. -Eben

Lackner-Tinnacher 2018 Südsteiermark Morillon Eckberg

Lackner-Tinnacher is one of (if not the) only certified organic producers in the Styria region of Austria. Styrian wines are not known widely in the US, mostly because there is a healthy local tradition of drinking wine and 90% of wine made in Styria is consumed there! Kati Tinnacher is a bit of an exception to the rule in the area. Where lower quality wines are often produced in good quantity and quickly, she has been trying to slow down releases and is working only with estate fruit instead of also buying grapes. This Morillon (Chardonnay) is from the local equivalent of a premier cru parcel called Eckberg. Morillon was likely brought to the area in the 17th or 18th century and is a mort tart and acidic clone of Chardonnay. The wine here is aged in large Acacia barrels and then in bottle for 6 months before release. Our friend Daniel Hubbard knows the winery and the region well and explains that the area has more in common with Friuli than Austria, as there is three times the amount of rainfall here than in the Danube Valley, and soils are similar to those in Friuli as well. The wine has nice structure and a bit of weight. If you don't like Chardonnay, pretend it's not, and if you do, this may not be your favorite but will be unique to any Chardonnay you've tried and is, subjectively, very enjoyable. - Eben

Mantlerhof 2019 Niederosterreich Gruner Veltliner Gutswein

Mantlerhof is one of the oldest organic wineries in the world. Originally part of the Salzberg Abbey, their motto is "Organic since the year 1000!" Situated in the Niederösterreich, the estate was purchased from the church by the Mantler family in the 1860s and has been certified organic since 1969. This is a liter of Gruner Veltliner that usually doesn't come to the states, but there was some of the 2019 vintage made available to the NY market. It's fresh, salty/sour, aged in stainless steel, with 10% underripe grapes utilized for that extra snap. Refreshing, to say the least! Not a textured Gruner, as should be clear from the description, this is a perfect thirst quencher and a nice deal for a liter of organic wine.  -Eben

Meinklang 2020 Österreich Prosa Rosé

Biodynamic Pinot Noir rosé bubbles! Bright red fruit, and a slight herbaceous quality buoyed by a fresh mousse. This would be lovely to start an evening, or could most definitely be enjoyed at the end with a cheese plate. Maybe also pop a bottle while cooking!  -CB