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.87 hectares dating from 1928. Located north of Champeaux and Les St. Jacques. A warm climat that ripens consistently; a touch backwards in its youth, with time in the cellar gains depth and sophistication.
Red/black fruit on the nose. A bit bosky. Bright acid, succulent fruit good balance of bramble and animale on the periphery. Medium tannins. Fresh, punchy attack, lifted mid-palate, good length. There's beautiful poise here between rustic and suave. Good now. Better still in 3-5 years. As always, Rollin remains a solid value in Burgundy and a worthy addition to one's table and cellar. John McIlwain
From old vines spread across multiple plots in the village. The 2015 has a dark ruby robe. Plum skin, dark cherry, freshly turned earth on the nose, with notes of brown spice and black tea. Medium weight palate offers flavors of brambly black berry, crushed herbs, damson plum and pungent loamy soil notes on a driving earthy finish. There a fine tension between the ripe dark fruits and earthy Pernand character framed by ripe tannins and a succulent acidity. The frank earthiness is compelling and this should come together beautifully with 4-7 years in the cellar. Rollin makes classically-styled Burgundies which remain a tremendous value and what they may lack in overt polish, is more than made up for in soulfulness. John McIlwain
Domaine des Croix was formed from the former Domaine Duchet. Their Corton Charlemagne vines are located right next to the vines of the Bonneau du Martray — right in Le Charlemagne, one of the best spots for white. Corton is the largest Grand Cru — some would say too large. Only two places produce Red and White Grand Cru wines. Musigny and Corton. (Clos Blanc de Vougeot is not Grand Cru, sorry.) There are true Grand Cru quality wines from Corton and some say the best whites come from the Pernand side of the hill, En Charlemagne and Le Charlemagne. Just a little bit of toasty oak with great fruit and great full bodied full blown chardonnay. This is a fabulous and rich Corton Charlemagne with tons of flavor and incredible balance and dynamic tension and a very, very long finish. David Croix thinks that this and the 2007 are the best Corton Charlemagnes he has ever made. This is an outstanding wine. Decant and drink now or cellar it for as long as you can. This wine is worth every penny. JBT
1990 Cos D'Estournel is very dark and deep, almost black in color. This is classic St Estephe, a big rich Bordeaux with power and a core of iron, this is a Cabernet powered heavyweight champion! Very ripe mulberries, cassis and blackberries; wonderful balance between the fruit and acidity and tannins all come together to make this a copybook example of mature Bordeaux. This wine has been drinking well for 10 years and could last ten more. It is smack-dab in the middle of its plateau of drinkability. A perfect example of one of the best wines Cos D'Estournel has ever made.
This is excellent, real unspoofilated Bordeaux. This tiny 4 acre estate is on a gravel outcropping in Arsac, near Margaux. Harvesting is by hand and no herbicides are used, the blend is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, which is aged in small barrells, none of which are new — a pleasant change from the fashion of over-oaked Bordeaux. 2005 is an excellent vintage in Bordeaux, of course, and the wine has ripe currant and blackberry fruit with hints of licorice and spice and firm chalky tannins. An excellent value in an old-fashioned style, from importer Neal Rosenthal.
This fully mature Red Bordeaux from the great 1978 vintage is perfect to have now. It had a long wait in someone else's wine cellar and is ready for your Sunday dinner. Deep brick red color, the bouquet has Margaux's signature "perfume", cedary and tobacco notes, good fruit, resolved tannins, good balance and a very long finish, A lovely ready-to-drink aged Cabernet Sauvigon based wine. Have it with a grilled steak, or lamb chops and a baked potato, or cook something fancy like a filet mignon with Bearnaise, or veal stew with fresh mushrooms, or a cheese souffle. . .