Riesling Collection

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Mostly Riesling, that is, with a few other related wines, from a lovingly tended private collection.

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Busch, Clemens 2007 Mosel Pündericher Marienburg Grosses Gewächs

Entirely from grey slate parcels in the Marienburg this Great Growth is done in traditional 1000 L Fuders. The aromatics here are stunning — licorice, purple iris, fresh meadow, there is an ethereal concrete core that opens to an insane depth of wild flower, sweet elder flowers and a finish that seems youthfully austere but goes wild with great length and viscosity. rsg

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Dönnhoff 2012 Nahe Hermannshöhle Riesling Grosses Gewächs

As in 2011, the Hermannshöhle GG is again terrific, but it's really aromatically closed as of June 2013. This is another Dönnhoff GG that's all structure and minerality at this point with the fruit playing second fiddle. The raw material is stunning, and this will probably age much better than any of the estate's previous dry wines. It's long, it's pure, it's elegant, and what its missing in the wild, kaleidoscopic fruit of 2011, it more than makes up for in detail, finesse and structure. -jfr

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Schloss Lieser 2010 Mosel Niederberg Helden Riesling Grosses Gewächs

The GG bottlings from Schloss Lieser have a bit of a cult following and we're happy to report that Thomas Haag didn't deacidify his dry wines in the wild 2010 vintage. Like most 2010s, these have shut down but we're planning to lay ours down and revisit in a few years, as we (and Haag) are confident that the wine is going to really come into itself soon. -jfr

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