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If you work with wine for a long enough time, you can begin to measure seasons by the arrivals of wines from your favorite growers. And when the wines arrive, it's akin to greeting an old friend. And as the weather grows cooler, a number of Champagnes we have grown to love are hitting the shelves. One of most exciting producers is Bérêche et Fils, where the energetic brothers Raphaël and Vincent turn out a range of inspiring Champagnes, which seem to improve with every vintage. Since taking over the estate in 2004, they have worked organically, and have begun application of biodynamic treatments to a portion of the vines. In the cellar they have focused on fermenting in oak with native yeasts, aging under cork, and bottling with lower dosage. The wines from their vineyards in the Montagne de Reims and Vallée de la Marne are intensely flavored, mineral, and supple, balancing ripe fruit character with terroir distinction. The use of oak, as well as aging under cork rather than capsule for the secondary fermentation of the wines, lends a faintly burnished character, adding an additional layer of complexity to the nose and palate.
We are pleased to offer their latest releases: Les Beaux Regards Blanc des Blancs, Campania Remensis Rosé, Le Cran, Rive Gauche Blanc des Noirs, and Reflets d'Antan (based on a single vintage combined with wines from a perpetual cuvée). John McIlwain
Bérêche, Raphael NV (2016 Base) Champagne Brut Nature Beaux Regards Chardonnay
Les Beaux Regards is a blend of two parcels of Chardonnay in Ludes on the northern slope of the Montagne de Reims planted in 1964 and 1970. The loamy clay soils produce a Champagne more vinous in character, rather than exclusively taut and chalky. The 2016 displays lemon zest, apple blossom, and stone fruit aromas with delicate notes of spice, brioche, and orange oil following. The palate is distinctly nervy and racy, with overtly salty notes, cool notes of lemon balm, quinine, and mint with a long tangy, mouthwatering finish. There's a penetrating minerality here matched by decidedly vivacious cool-toned fruit. Delicious! John McIlwain
Bérêche, Raphael NV (2016 Base) Champagne Extra Brut Rive Gauche
I’m not sure why, but Pinot Meunier-based Champagnes always remind me of Fall. Something about the spiciness and orchard fruit with the broader palate character from the limestone clay soils seem to lend warmth and breadth to the profile and in good hands there’s no sacrificing precision. 100% old-vine Pinot Meunier sourced from the lieu-dit Le Misy, located in Port à Binson on the southern bank of the Marne river. Fermented with native yeasts in barrel and aged under cork, Bérêche's Rive Gauche makes a convincing case for Champagnes made from the oft-underestimated Pinot Meunier grape. The old vines restrict the sometimes overly exuberant quality of the variety, and while the wine shows lovely ripeness, there is a tangy minerality within. The 2016 base Rive Gauche offers plenty of suavity and soil character from a decidedly tough year (frost). The robe is a pale gold with a faint salmon hue; it boastss a soft mousse and fine bead. The nose offers aromas of golden apple, orange blossom, and salted plum. The palate is expansive, but energetic and lithe with a salty core undergirding stone fruit, seashell, and orange oil flavors.
There is fine concentration and mouthwatering acidity that carries over on the broad, persistent finish. This is lovely now, but should knit with more time in the bottle. Tasty with braised chicken and wild mushrooms, but I’d love to take this for a spin with some rare tuna belly or pan-roasted king salmon and greens. John McIlwain
Bérêche NV (2016 Base) Extra Brut Rose Campania Remensis
Bérêche's Campania Remensis is a consistently fascinating rosé Champagne, in a category fraught with uninspiring wines. The 2016 base is 60% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Meunir with 5% still red wine from Ormes on the western side of the Montagne de Reims. Fermented in oak. Aged under cork and hand disgorged in March, 2020 bottled with 3g/l dosage. John McIlwain
Bérêche, Raphael NV "L15" Champagne Brut Reflets d'Antan Base 15
Based on a perpetual cuvée dating from the 1980's, the wine combines the vivid, nervy fruit of a recent vintage with the burnished, textural and aromatic complexity of the aged wines which make up the 'solera.' The secondary fermentation under cork rather than crown cap adds an additional layer of finesse with a delicate bead and soft mousse. Reflets is 2/3 reserve wine and 1/3 from the 2015 vintage. John McIlwain
Bérêche, Raphael NV (base 15) Champagne Brut Reflets d'Antan 1.5 L
Based on a perpetual cuvée dating from the 1980's, the wine combines the vivid, nervy fruit of a recent vintage with the burnished, textural and aromatic complexity of the aged wines which make up the 'solera.' The secondary fermentation under cork rather than crown cap adds an additional layer of finesse with a delicate bead and soft mousse. Reflets is 2/3 reserve wine and 1/3 from the 2015 vintage. John McIlwain
Bérêche, Raphael 2016 Champagne Rilly La Montagne
100% Pinot Noir from .40 Hectares in the premier cru village of Rilly-la-Montagne. Fermented in oak with native yeasts, aged under cork for 36 months before disgorgement. Dosage 3g/l.
Bérêche, Raphael 2014 Champagne Grand Cru Ambonnay
100% Pinot Noir from 50-year old vines in "Les Tourets" in the Grand Cru village of Ambonnay. Disgorge 1/20, 3.5g/l dosage.
Bérêche, Raphael 2014 Champagne Grand Cru Mailly
100% Pinot Noir from 60 year-old vines in Les Chalois lieu-dit comprised of brown clay and chalky soils. Fermented with native yeasts, aged in wood, prise de mousse under cork. Disgorged 1/20, 3.5 g/l dosage.