Kelley Fox 2019 Willamette Valley Nerthus White

A unique new arrival from our friend Kelley Fox! The 'Nerthus' is a blend of 60% Gruner Veltliner from the Chehalem Mountain Vineyard, and 40% Early Muscat from the Eola Springs Vineyard. The Muscat spends about twelve days with the skins before being pressed, and the Gruner has six days of skin-contact before being pressed and added to the Muscat in 1.5 ton, open-top fermenters where they both ferment to dryness. After completing malo-lactic fermentation, the blend is aged in stainless steel for seven months. This is an elegant skin-contact wine if ever there was one. More of a pale gold than orange color, with a bouquet of wild flowers, fresh and dried, ripe apricot, and wet stone on the nose. On the palate the Muscat characteristics hit you up front, but the finish is all Gruner; crisp, a little herbaceous, and tough of white pepper leave you salivating and wanting another sip. Michelle DeWyngaert

Basket Range 2017 Adelaide Hills Red Blend

Back in the 1980's Phil Broderick started planting  a humble selection of Bordeaux varieties nestled in the Adelaide Hills.  Though his sons took over in 2016 and started to create a series of fun, modern, and experimental wines, Phil still makes a small amount of his original line of elegant, classic, Bordeaux-inspired bottles and we get them for an incredible value. This blend is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot aged in neutral oak, and  at only 13% ABV this is no fruit-bomb. The palate is full and silky, sun-kissed  plums, black cherry, roasted pepper and herbs. It is meant to the perfect companion to a range of heartier fare, or keep this in your cellar for 5-10 years to  see how it evolves! Michelle DeWyngaert

L'Heritier Guyot Vieux Marc de Bourgogne V.S.O.P.

Bottled in the 1960's, this is a rare find! L'Heritier-Guyot is located in the heart of the Côte d’Or and created this Marc de Bourgogne from the grape pomace left behind from wine production, similar to Italian Grappa.

Ceritas 2018 Peter Martin Ray Vineyard Santa Cruz Chardonnay

The Peter Martin Ray Vineyard in Santa Cruz sits way up at 1800ft elevation. This history of this vineyard dates back to the 1940's, but the Chardonnay vines were replanted in the early 1980s.  The fruit from here is highly sought after because of the uncompromising farming of Peter Ray, and the unique saltiness and minerality that is imparted to the grapes.

Ceritas 2018 Trout Gulch Vineyard Santa Cruz Chardonnay

The Trout Gulch Vineyard in Santa Cruz is the southern-most site used by Ceritas. A mere 3.5 miles from the ocean with sandy, marine-sediment based soils, this Chardonnay is the most expressive of the the salty maritime air. The vines were planted in 1980 at an elevation of 750ft above sea-level with well draining soils and a cooler average temperature than surrounding appellations . This keeps the grapes from here concentrated with an abundance of acidity. This is certainly a Chardonnay to savor with fresh seafood or shellfish!

Frenchtown Farms 2018 Sierra Foothills David Girard Vineyard - Cotill

The 'Cotillon' red blend is the Frenchtown Farms' ode to classic Cotes du Rhone wines. Sourced from the organically farmed David Girard Vineyards at 1400ft elevation in the Sierra Foothills on well-draining volcanic soil. This wine displays the benefits of the extreme diurnal temperature shifts by being both beautifully ripe, and also full of vibrant acidity. The blend is 70% Mourvedre, 20% Grenache, and 10% Syrah all left whole-cluster, then foot-stomped and aged in old French barrels for 8 months. The nose is a an enticing mix of bright, maraschino cherry, juicy, red plum, and a savory meatiness with soft, fresh herbs. This will be perfect with Mediterranean fare or anything stewed with herbs de Provence! Michelle DeWyngaert

Cameron 2016 Dundee Hills Nebbiolo

Something of a rarity outside Piedmont, Cameron Winery has been growing Nebbiolo on the Clos Electrique vineyard  since 1994 because they were struck by the similarities in the Willamette to the climate of Northern Italy. In keeping with the traditions of Barolo and Barbaresco, the Cameron Nebbiolo is held for several years before release to begin to soften the tightly wound tannins characteristic of the grape. Though there is no mistaking this wine for Barolo, it is not for lack of quality but because it feels unique to Willamette (though there is a touch of VA ).  The nose shows notes of an old cedar box, black cherry, and cinnamon Red Hots, and the palate is plush and ripe with red berry and dark volcanic rock with velvety mouth-coating tannins. This wine will do well in the cellar for another 5-10 years, or a long decant if you're opening it now. Michelle DeWyngaert

Crowley 2017 Willamette Valley Entre Nous Pinot Noir

'Entre Nous' is a blend of fruit from La Colina Vineyard in Dundee Hills and the Four Winds Vineyard in the McMinnville Coast, all 100% Pinot Noir. This blend brings the ripeness and juiciness of the more inland vines, and the lift and elegance from the coastal influence. A small portion of new oak barrels and the rest neutral, frames this wine with a touch of baking spice, nothing dramatic, that will only continue to integrate as it ages. The nose has a beautiful floral, rose water aroma with notes of freshly picked white cherry, raspberry, and a sense of the volcanic soils that line the Willamette Valley. The palate is perfectly clean, almost austere with powdery tannins, but balanced by ripeness and power from the La Colina fruit. Michelle DeWyngaert

Porter Creek 2017 Sonoma County Old Vine Zinfandel

A classic example of Sonoma County Zinfandel. Aromatically, it has explosive cherries and berries, and on the palate it is rich and textured on the finish. Produced from hillside grown vines and blended with 5% Carignane for texture and overall harmony.

**Arrives  9/28**

Cara Sur (Sebastian Zuccardi and Francisco Bugallo) 2019 San Juan Moscatel Tinto

Certainly a lesser known mutation of the Muscat grape, this Moscatel Tinto from San Juan is an elegant example. The grapes come from the tiny Finca Maggio Vineyard planted in 1950 on alluvial soils, which are hand-harvested and fermented with 30% whole clusters. The juice ages for eight months in concrete with the lees and then gets bottles unfined and unfiltered. Despite clocking in at 14% ABV, this wine is beautiful pale and feels rather light on the palate. The nose explodes with notes of rosewater, red currant, under-ripe raspberry and forest floor. The palate has the gentlest tannins that lightly coat your mouth, with notes of juicy cranberry and raspberry, with just a touch of heat on the finish. Michelle DeWyngaert

Godmé, Hugues 2009 Champagne Brut 1er Cru Les Alouettes Saint Bets

Hugues Godmé 2009 Les Alouettes Saint Bets Brut is a single vineyard blanc de blancs from Villers-Marmery near the border with Verzy. The soils of this climat are very chalky with little topsoil. The grapes are farmed biodynamically, vinified in neutral oak with native yeasts, with no malolactic fermentation, and bottled with low sulfur. There is an electric sense of chalky minerality to this Champagne. While there is a degree of richness to the wine that hints at Verzy, and a silken quality on the palate derived from its time in wood, ultimately a cool, deft sense of fruit and chalkiness defines the nose and palate. Still a bit taut, there are floral and citrus oil notes on the nose, followed by Meyer lemon and a subtle salinity on the palate. The mousse is fine and the finish long, complex, and supple. This should shine brightly with a bit more time in the bottle.  John McIlwain

Godmé, Hugues 2009 Champagne Brut Premier Cru Les Romaines Pinot Meunier

I have a not-so-secret love for Champagnes made from Pinot Meunier. Godmé's single vineyard expression, Les Romaines 1er cru, is an especially stunning example. The biodynamically farmed vineyard located in Villedommange has calcareous soils which lend a particularly savory minerality to the wine, offsetting the sometimes over-generous nature of the variety. The 2009 Les Romaines is  particularly vibrant example with effusive notes of wild strawberry, salted plum, and blood orange on the nose. The palate is broad but lithe and energetic, with a deep pitch of salty  earthiness vying with stone fruit flavors for attention giving way to a long, detailed rising finish. There is impeccable balance here, with the ripeness of the vintage seemingly lending gravitas to the firm mineral core. John McIlwain

Godmé, Hugues 2010 Champagne Brut Grand Cru Les Champs Saint Martin

From the eponymous lieu-dit located in the grand cru village of Verzenay on the norther slope of the Montagne de Reims. The organically farmed vines date from 1986 are grown in shallow clay soils over chalk. Juice from the coeur de cuvée, fermented with native yeasts, aged in oak barrels. The 2010 boasts a fine bead and soft mousse. The nose offer aromas of wet stone, red apple skin, spice, and apple blossom. The rich palate is broad and supple, yet suffused with a bright, incisive minerality and a lean cut to the long, detailed, rising, finish. There is a fine interplay between ripe red fruit flavors and a firm core of savory minerality. There is real class and complexity here with a fine upside for aging. Godmé’s parcellaires have real verve and depth and are not to be missed! John McIlwain

Rostaing 2017 Côte-Rôtie Ampodium (375ml)

"dark red; has a smoky outer nose, crushed wild brambly fruits, black berries, blueberry, iron filings. The palate is stylishly reserved, red fruits such as mulberry, tayberry, flashes of raspberry. This has very good purity of fruit, a real winner. It ends on schist cut, twang. Good integrity, truth here. It’s still rather gnarled, and needs leaving until 2021." (www.drinkrhone.com) Drinking beautifully now!

Rostaing 2017 Côte-Rôtie Ampodium

Rostaing 2017 Côte Rôtie La Landonne

Rostaing 2017 Côte Rôtie Côte Blonde

Terrebrune 2019 Bandol Rosé

A little late in the game from a “Rosé Season” standpoint, but I still have a couple of days to wear white pants or white bucs. This year's (2019) model has a pale salmon, sunset robe to the meniscus. Upon opening there is a touch of struck match and mineral smoke, which blows of shortly. The nose is delicately floral and redolent of watermelon agua fresca, wild strawberries, and tangerine peel. The palate is a bit less concentrated than the 2018, but is more lifted and vibrant with plenty of brio on the long, mouthwatering finish. And lest it suffer by comparison to the previous, there is a compelling mineral core here that expresses itself with gusto and will stand up to your tapenade, ratatouille, or on this evening a riff on Madame Peyraud’s thon à La Marseillaise. This certainly offers plenty of charm and refreshment, but there is enough structure and poise to warrant aging for 3-5 years. And who doesn't need a September rosé to wash down the end of the season’s eggplant, courgettes, tomatoes, and maybe a bit of that tapenade? John McIlwain

Domaine des Amphores 2019 IGP des Collines Rhodaniennes Syrah "Les Iris"

From 100% Syrah in Chavanay, just outside the Saint-Joseph zone, tended organically since planting, in the early 90's, and now  Biodynamic  as well. The 2019 "Les Iris" Syrah  is similar to the exuberant 2018 but perhaps a bit brighter and with a bit more concentration and depth. The wine shows cool aromas of blackberry and blueberry with hints of stone, mint, smoke and violet, quite fresh and pretty. The palate is dense and elegant, with cool acidity and well-structured blackberry and black raspberry fruit, with a fresh earthy finish with mineral, citrus and ripe red and black fruit flavors. Terrific length and depth for a wine at this price. This is a very versatile wine to serve cool with grilled chicken, pork and full-flavored cheeses or to sip by itself, slightly chilled. It's  an authentic and delicious wine and a great value! David Lillie

Domaine des Amphores 2018 IGP des Collines Rhodaniennes Detour Blanc

Domaine des Amphores, a long-time organic and now Biodynamic estate in Chavanay,  just south of Condrieu, produces excellent Saint-Josephs as well as red and white Vin de Pays. "Detour" is made from Roussanne, Clairette and Marsanne - it's a delicious Northern Rhone wine and one of the best values in the store. The 2018 is ripe, round and beautifully balanced with aromas of apricot, almond, lemon, hay and stone - the palate is supple and elegant with stone fruits, anise and mineral flavors, finishing with ripe white fruits and saline minerals.  Delicious by itself or with fish or chicken in sauce and mild cheeses. This great value will open up nicely over the next few years and is highly recommended!  David Lillie

Jean Maupertuis 2020 VDF (Auvergne) Neyrou

Neyrou (the local name for Pinot Noir) is a bottling of Pinot Noir from a site that ranges from sand to clay sub-soil. Always a lovely expression and quite distinct from Bourgogne Pinot Noirs or Pinots from the Loire et Cher. Yields from this site are very low, usually around 10hl/ht, which is certainly very low, but on the bright side, contributes to ideal concentration of fruit. An impressive Pinot Noir with darker, deep character, more black cherry and dark berries, with flavors of earth and spice.

Maupertuis 2019 Vin de France Blanc Puy Long

Maupertuis 2019 Vin de France Pierres Noires

Tricot 2019 VDF (Auvergne) Les Milans

Marie et Vincent Tricot 2019 VDF (Auvergne) 3 Bonhommes

Tricot 2019 VDF (Auvergne) Petit Red Cote Ouest

Le Temps des Cerises (Axel Prufer) 2019 VDF La Peur du Rouge (Blanc)

Le Temps des Cerises (Prufer) 2019 VDF Avanti Popolo

Born and raised in East Germany, Axel Prüfer moved to France as a young man in 1998 to pursue a career in winemaking. He resides in a mountainous region of the Languedoc and his vines are planted in various plots, all of them surrounded by thick forests. Axel doesn’t allow anything unnatural to come into the vines’ ecosystem, striving for a healthy, polycultural environment in which they can thrive. He uses this same, minimalistic approach in the cellar, although at times will employ a minimal dose of sulfur at bottling. Avanti Popolo is Carignan, Aramon (a rare grape from the region), and Cinsault.  The nose is awash with bright red berry fruit, rose petals,  and garrigue. It's zingy, spicy and very "funky." On the palate it's high-toned and fresh with invigorating fruit, spice, and minerals. Drink with a chill.  -EL

Marie et Vincent Tricot 2019 VDF (Auvergne) White Light

Clos de la Bonnette 2019 VDP Cisselande (Syrah)

Clos de la Bonnette makes this lovely 100% Syrah using grapes from a young organic grower in Suzette, near Beaumes-de-Venise. The vines are about 40 years-old, grown on clay/limestone soils, the juice is vinified with light extraction and aged in old barrels. The 2019 Cisselande has a dark purple robe. This is perfumed with effusive aromas of violets, pastilles, cassis, bramble, game on the nose. The palate is black-fruited, concentrated, and displays fine-grained tannins. Fine sappy flavors of blackberry, plum skin, and a dark core of savory minerality. This has fine length and shows an excellent amount of complexity and detail for this level and is enthusiastically recommended.  John McIlwain

Pierre Andre 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Tasted in Montpellier Jan. 2020: dark black/red color, very aromatic with red currant, strawberry, spice, earth; palate is round, dense, good acidity, deep black cherry, red currant, plum, earth, minerals; very  long and well-structured but a bit softer than the 2016, great finish. Delicious now or cellar 15 to 20 years. DL   "Full, dark red. The bouquet is promising, well varied already, with a beef stock, loganberry, deep black fruit presence. There is a shimmer of dusty heat from it. The palate is rich and rolling right from the start, engages very well with a flourishing length and spiced notes in the sparky, full finish. Lots of life blood here, a nourishing wine with genuine typicity, good vigour and cut. Not much more praise can be added. This lights my fuse, sure thing." DrinkRhone Oct 2018

Banneret 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The Banneret estate dates back to 1405 and is now run by the Vidal family. Located in Châteauneuf-du-Pape with a vineyard strewn with 'galets' to warm the vines, many of which are over 80 years old. The blend used is 60% Grenache from their highest parcels (close to the famous Rayas vineyard), 10% Syrah from near Bois de Boursan, and 10% Mourvèdre from near the Rhône River. The remaining 20%  is comprised of the 10 other grapes that are permitted in the appellation adding a unique quality to this classic wine. Everything is co-fermented in concrete tanks and then aged for 18 months in Burgundian oak.

Bonneau, Henri 1989 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Marie Beurrier

Bonneau, Henri 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Célestins

Juge, Marcel 2005 Cornas

Domaine de la Romanee Conti 1999 Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Cuvee Duvault-Blocher

de Villaine, A et P 2018 Bourgogne La Digoine

In the past, I have often heard Domaine de Villaine referred to as "Baby DRC," a reference to its creation by Aubert de Villaine, director of the legendary Vosne estate. However, this misses the point slightly. There are certainly similarities in the way the two domaines are managed (biodynamic viticulture, a large percentage of stems included in the vinification of the red wines). However, perhaps the most important link is a respect for terroir and this means the results diverge, offering completely different expressions of Pinot and Chardonnay. These are distinctly Chalonnaise wines, balancing a natural rusticity with a purity of fruit that is a testament to the quality of the farming that is a hallmark of this estate. "Digoine" may be labelled Bourgogne Chalonnaise but the humble label belies the site's greatness. Digoine is a remarkably structured Bourgogne and ages effortlessly. I often go out of my way to buy older vintages whenever I can and the '99 is one of the best '99s I've had from anywhere in the region.    Sam Ehrlich

de Villaine, A et P 2018 Bourgogne La Fortune

While the Côte Chalonnaise has long played second fiddle to the Côte d’Or (and third fiddle one supposes to the Côte des Nuits), there’s happy hunting and relative value for those who look. There’s plenty of terroir (even if from a different geological era ), good farming at a number of domaines, and the classic tension between fruit and soil that Burgundy at its best embodies. And if there’s a cream of the crop of to this Côte—and it being Burgundy, there’s definitely a hierarchy—it’s certainly Domaine de Villaine. Monsieur de Villaine's day job certainly gets the lion’s share of the press, but even in the humble south, there’s praise to be garnered and pretty delicious wine to be drunk. And while the Bouzeron is justly famous among the Burg Nerd set, the reds are nipping at the heels of that Aligoté pony. And the 2018 La Fortune Rouge deservedly rates. The robe is a deep ruby hue. The nose offers aromas of dried roses, violet, crushed strawberry, and just a whisper of sweet anise. The palate, while concentrated and displaying the best of the 2018 ripeness, hews the line between ripe and detailed with red and black fruit flavors vying with sapid notes of black tea, game, and powdery tannins girded by a distinctly mineral core. So while this is certainly delicious there is a whole lot of ‘there’ there. And this is manifest in the punchy, lingering, savory finish. The dry extract, persistence, and pinpoint balance give me the impression that this has excellent potential for cellaring, but I have to admit that opening a bottle now is equally compelling. A heck of a bottle with Rohan Duck breast and Japanese turnips and greens, this has enough gras to accompany pork cutlets with a mint pesto à la Highlands Grill or even a medium rare squab with farro. Lovely juice, indeed. John McIlwain

De Villaine, A.et P. 2018 Bouzeron Aligoté 1.5L

From the other Co^te. The 2018 Domaine de Villaine Bouzeron has pale yellow green robe.  Lemon blossom, jonquil, rainwater, and powdered grapefruit zest on the expressive nose. The palate is racy and belies the the solar 2018 vintage, shaded more to preserved lemon, sea spray, and nervy stony sapidity, rather than overt fruit. There is a concentration that denotes ageabilty, and a persistent, mouthwatering finish that is deeply stony and satisfying. Lovely with quickly saute´ed scallops and brown butter with braised Greenmarket scallions, but with enough sap to pair nicely with roasted carrots with salsa verde. And yes, the price has crept up, but this is immensely satisfying and given the prices of middling Chablis and village wines is definitely worth a look. Excellent juice. John McIlwain

Faiveley 2002 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Marechale 375ml

Faiveley 2016 Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley Grand Cru

Ripe, perfumed, and dark-fruited on the nose with a mélange of floral and spice notes and a discreet touch of oak, the 2016 Clos des Cortons has a sensational sense of brightness and complexity. The palate offers a dramatic combination of pure fruit, supple tannins, and vigorous minerality on a layered, harmonious, classy finish. This is lovely and should age effortlessly. Beautiful Corton, indeed. John McIlwain

Faiveley 2016 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

Was $449.99

The 2016 Faiveley Clos de Bèze already offers a dazzling array of dark and red fruits, wild berries, pure cherry, and turned earth on the nose. The concentrated palate offers spicy cherry and plum flavors with notes of game, mustard seed, and black tea over a layered and dense mineral core of impressive length and complexity giving way to a long, detailed, stony finish. This will take the better part of a decade to integrate all of its elements, but should provide rewarding drinking for the patient. Excellent Clos de Bèze. John McIlwain

Chantal Lescure 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Damodes

Was $64.99

From the village portion of Les Damodes on the Vosne side of Nuits St. Georges, long-time organic farming, minimal use of SO2. The 2017 "Les Damodes" shows a bright red/black color with very floral aromas of black cherry and strawberry liqueur, with hints of mint, licorice and brown spice. There is deep black cherry, strawberry and red currant fruit on the palate which is chalky, round and ripe and is nicely balanced by bright acidity, a bit of tannin and a hint of oak. This opens up with aeration becoming more complex, with pretty red fruits lingering in the finish. Quite delicious now, this will show best in 5 to 8 years when the tannins and oak have integrated.  David Lillie

Chantal Lescure 2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

Was $189.99

From 50+ year-old vines in the mid-upper part of the Clos (Lieu-dit "Montiotes"). Terroir pebbly clay/limestone. Tasted before racking/bottling in January 2019. Aromas are floral, meaty, elegant, deep black raspberry, cherry; the palate is dense and deep with ripe black and red fruits, spice, mint, earth, fabulous length, beautiful wine...  DL

Chantal Lescure 2017 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots

2017 Les Suchots. A bit backwards on opening, mostly showing forest floor and tart berries. But with air, the nose unfurls to offer effusive aromas of wild raspberry, blackberry liqueur, and crushed rose petals. The palate is generous and coltish with ripe flavors of Bing cherry, turned earth, and exotic spices, with good density and a fine core of minerality. Not quite as nervy as the 2016, but this has fine balance, ripe tannins, and sneaky persistence. Delicious with guinea hen in a red wine sauce with mushrooms over grits. But I can see enjoying this with gamier fare. This shows plush fruit and savory soil notes and should gain in complexity with a few years in the cellar. John McIlwain

Chantal Lescure 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Vallerots

A new 1er for me. Apparently Les Vallerots is a near monopoly of Chantal Lescure per Jasper Morris. Dark ruby robe. The nose is a bit inscrutable on opening; with air, notes of black raspberry, plum, cherry pit emerge with a faint whiff on anise. The mid-weight palate is also a bit reserved, though it blossoms to reveal flavors of ripe raspberry, blood orange zest, mustard seed and pomegranate. There’s a fine sense of brisk acidity and stoniness—Les Vallerots is on top of the slope above the center of the village—lending energy to the wine through the mid-palate and on to the finish. There’s great flair here if you allow this to open up. The intersection of fruit and earth is compelling and satisfying; high altitude Nuits-Saint-Georges in character. If drinking now, decant for a few hours or better yet, cellar for 3-5 years. John McIlwain

Chantal Lescure 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Les Mombies

The lieu-dit "Les Mombies" is situated downslope by the road with limestone clay soils. The 2017 Les Mombies is aromatically reticent on opening with notes of black tea, hedge fruits, and soil. With air it becomes more expressive with blackberry, Italian plum, and game. The mid-weight palate offers dark fruit flavors and good concentration over a fine mineral core and tannins that are more crushed velvet than silken, and this has fine fresh acidity and nice lift on the finale. There are plenty of layers here even if full expressiveness is implied at this point. This is a lovely Chambolle "villages" and ought to shine with 3-5 years in the cellar and beyond. John McIlwain

Germain, Henri 2018 Bourgogne Blanc

Rising in popularity, among wine lovers and winemakers alike, are the wines of Henry Germain, and the Bourgogne Blanc is the perfect introduction to their precise and classic style. Like all of the Germain wines, it is made in a low-intervention style with indigenous yeast, no additives other than SO2, no bâtonnage, racking, fining, or filtering, and judicious use of new oak. The Bourgogne bottling is a blend from two sites: Au Jardin and Les Belles Cotes, just below Meursault Chevalieres, and the fermentation and aging occur in neutral barrels.

Germain, Henri 2017 Meursault Rouge Clos des Mouches Monopole

Fourrier 2017 Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes

In the past ten or so years, the wines of Jean-Marie Fourrier have gone from one of the best-kept secrets in Burgundy to one of the best-known quantities. These are wines of almost heartbreaking delicacy, brimming with fragile pure red fruit and spice. The viticulture here is first rate and the use of new oak is fabulously restrained, notable in a village where it is often applied lavishly. The Gevrey Chambertin "Vieilles Vignes" is sourced from three parcels, largely planted between 1955 and 1928. Year in and out, this is one of the best village-level wines made anywhere.

Fourrier 2016 Vosnee Romanée Aux Réas Vieille Vigne

In the past ten or so years, the wines of Jean-Marie Fourrier have gone from one of the best-kept secrets in Burgundy to one of the best-known quantities. These are wines of almost heartbreaking delicacy, brimming with fragile pure red fruit and spice. The viticulture here is first rate and the use of new oak is fabulously restrained, notable in a village where it is often applied lavishly. "Aux Réas" sits just south of the village of Vosne Romanée itself, adjacent to the 1er Cru "Clos des Réas." In an appellation that produces perhaps the most coveted and expensive wines in the region, this is an astonishing value.

Fichet 2017 Meursault Les Tessons

If you were to ask me which white wine producer in the Co^te d’Or brings me the most joy at the table, there are a few growers whose wines would come to mind, but ultimately despite my love for Germain, Leflaive, Pierre Morey, Niellon, Ramonet, Roulot, and others, I have to confess that Fichet consistently lights up my glass. His endless attention to detail in the vines and cellar borders on obsessive and results in consistently brilliant wines.

Fichet 2017 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Referts

If you were to ask me which white wine producer in the Co^te d’Or brings me the most joy at the table, there are a few growers whose wines would come to mind, but ultimately despite my love for Germain, Leflaive, Pierre Morey, Niellon, Ramonet, Roulot, and others, I have to confess that Fichet consistently lights up my glass. The 2017 Puligny Referts 1er is no exception. Reductive and taut in opening, within a hour it offers all of the classic aromatics of Puligny: lemon blossom, honeysuckle, sweet pea (chlorophyll), sea spray, and a whisper of mint(?). The palate is similarly composed, with a perfect equipoise between savory driving minerality and an extravagant flush of yellow and white stone fruit. Expansive and exuberant? Sure! Yet containing layer after layer of nuance? Absolutely. This was magnificent with lemon scented ricotta stuffed ravioli and favas from our friends at the Simone and their Simone-A-Go-Go delivery. And shimmered with the Cooper River King Salmon, sugar snap peas, and spring onions. Take joy where you find it, friends. And do give Tina a call if you are in Manhattan. The Simone delivers on nearly as many levels as this gorgeous Referts from Monsieur Fichet.  John McIlwain

De Montille 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds

From a 1.51 ha parcel in the rocky soils of Taillepieds. Biodynamically farmed 100% whole cluster. Aged in 30% new oak barrels. The de Montille 2016 Volnay Taillepieds is one of the highlights in a vintage full of effusively floral and vibrantly precise Burgundies. The wine has a pale ruby robe. The nose is exuberantly scented with sweet aromas of wild roses, cherry blossom, and perfectly ripe wild cherry. The palate is incisively stony with the breathtakingly pure red fruits framed with mouthwatering acidity and a sapid mineral core. The rising finish is impressively persistent and offers that classic peacock's tail of after-aromas and flavors. The impression is one of energy and lift rather than density or mass, though this has the balance to age effortlessly. An exceptional Taillepieds and a perfect expression of the virtues of the excellent, if difficult vintage! Bravo to Etienne de Montille! John McIlwain

De Montille 2016 Vosne Romanée 1er Cru Malconsorts

From the top of the slope planted in shallow limestone soils. 66% whole cluster. 60% new oak. The 2016 Malconsorts has a deeply-pitched nose with extravagant red and dark berry fruit, spice, game, and sousbois. The tightly coiled palate offers pure wild fruit, sapid earth notes, and layers of spice, black tea, and dense plummy stone fruit flavors overlaying a firm ripe structure, leading to a long explosive finish. This is tightly wound today, but should sing with 10-12 years in the cellar. This is truly impressive and has a long life ahead. John McIlwain

De Montille 2016 Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens-Bas 1.5L

 If ever there was an argument for the elevation of Pommard 1er cru Rugiens to grand cru status, de Montille's Rugiens-Bas certainly makes a convincing case. The 2016 is 40% whole cluster with aging in 1/3 new oak. The robe is a dark ruby, nearing purple. Aromatically, this offers a kaleidoscopic array of dark flowers, black fruits, and deeply earthy scents with more seemingly in reserve. The palate is intensely flavored with plummy fruit, good mid-palate density, firm tannins and a firm core on ferrous minerality on a concentrated, long finish. This is offering good nascent complexity, though the impression is of a Rugiens that is coiled and will need time to reveal its potential. Given the better part of a decade in the cellar, this should be sensational as the magnificent fruit integrates with the significant structure and drink beautifully for another 10-15 years and beyond. John McIlwain

Trapet 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Ostrea

From four limestone-rich old vine (planted in 1919!) parcels near the border of Brochon. Ostrea is so named due the the proliferation of fossilized oyster shells in the soils. Biodynamically farmed, fermented with indigenous yeasts, 30% whole cluster. The 2017 is effusive on the nose with dark cherry, black raspberry, game, and black tea aromas. The mid-weight and sappy palate is endowed with pretty ripe, berry fruit, with an undercurrent of tangy acidity and fine-grained tannins with a persistent and rising finish. This is a joy to drink now, though there is distinct, if subtle, structure that bodes well for midterm cellaring. This is a more exuberant expression of Gevrey, but there's plenty of meat on these bones even if this more svelte than brawny in character. John McIlwain

Trapet 2017 Marsannay Rouge

From the Grasses Têtes and Grand Poirier lieux-dits. 10-20% whole cluster fermentation. The 2017 Marsannay offers aromas of wild strawberry, Morello cherry, black tea, and cool herbs on the nose. The mid-weight palate is a touch brambly, with wild berry and spice notes vying with a distinct earthy character for attention. The finish is persistent and offers a burst of black fruit and an almost minty character at the end. This leans in the direction of freshness, rather than rusticity and should age wonderfully in the mid-term, say 4-6 years.  John McIlwain

Lignier, Hubert 2017 Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes

From a parcel that straddles the two Premier Cru sites, " “Les Faconnieres” and “Les Chenevery”, which sits just below the famed 'Clos de la Roche' Grand Cru. A very special bottling from 60+ year-old vines.

Lignier, Hubert 2017 Morey St. Denis Trilogie

From old vines planted in three different lieux-dits in Morey Saint Denis (Chenevery, Clos Solon, and Porroux).Good freshness and density. Decant now or cellar for 5-7 years to allow elements to integrate.

Lignier-Michelot 2016 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

Like the rest of the lineup, the 2016 Clos de la Roche from Lignier-Michelot is a wine of nearly startling intensity and purity. The nose is redolent of spicy red fruits, violets and roses, and earthy game aromas with layer after layer of soil notes. The perfectly ripe palate is a mélange of sweet, ripe, pure fruit dancing above a deeply-pitched mineral core of fantastically articulate detail. I love the balance of shimmering energy and mineral intensity here that carries through on the long, sophisticated, rising finish. This has great class and will benefit from 10-12 years in the cellar and beyond. A truly beautiful Clos de la Roche! John McIlwain

Lignier, Hubert 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Les Bussières

Was $139.99

'Les Bussières' sits on the border of Morey-St-Denis, just below the Premier cru 'Les Sentiers'. The vines were planted between 1948 and 1988. Coming from the border between Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-St- Denis lends this bottle a sense of both, the elegance of Chambolle and the savory structure of Morey-St-Denis.

Grivot, Jean 2017 Echezeaux Grand Cru

Over the last ten years there has been a sea change at Domaine Jean Grivot, as Etienne Grivot has handed operations over to his daughter Mathilde. Huge strides have been made in the vines as she has moved to organics and away from the long cold soaks and heavy extraction that made these wines Parker darlings in the late Nineties and early Aughts. The result is a renewed sense of freshness and energy. She has also dialed back on new oak in the cellar. Her Echezeaux comes from a parcel of just less than a hectare at the south end of the appellation, abutting Vosne 1er Cru "Suchots."

Cathiard, Sylvain 2016 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey

Sylvain Cathiard's fanbase has always vastly outstripped the amount of wine produced. With just over four hectares in Chambolle, Vosne and Nuits Saint Georges, Cathiard has been making beautifully opulent wines since taking over the estate from his father in 1995. They are firmly in the mold of Henri Jayer, always destemmed and aged in upwards of 50% new oak. However, the quality of the vineyards and the careful vineyard work produce fruit that handles the wood effortlessly. Today his son Sebastien is firmly in charge and the wines remain some of the best in their various appellations.    

Cathiard, Sylvain 2014 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey

Sylvain Cathiard's fanbase has always vastly outstripped the amount of wine produced. With just over four hectares in Chambolle, Vosne and Nuits Saint Georges, Cathiard has been making beautifully opulent wines since taking over the estate from his father in 1995. They are firmly in the mold of Henri Jayer, always destemmed and aged in upwards of 50% new oak. However, the quality of the vineyards and the careful vineyard work produce fruit that handles the wood effortlessly. Today his son Sebastien is firmly in charge and the wines remain some of the best in their various appellations.

Lignier, Hubert 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrees

From 50-80 year old vines from the 'Les Seuvrees' parcel located right below the Grand Cru Mazoyeres Chambertin.

Rollin 2017 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru

 The Rollin family has been making and bottling wines from Pernand and Aloxe since the mid-1950s and today are one of the best addresses in either commune. These are old-school wines made with a minimum of fuss - treating the vines only when absolutely necessary, hand-harvesting, fermenting only with native yeasts and without slavishly relying on new oak for flavor or richness. Their Charlemagne is a true Charlemagne, with vines on both the Aloxe and Pernand sides. This is notable because the two produce wines of such different character, with the south-facing Aloxe parcels contributing richness and the cooler Pernand side adding tension and freshness but each one delivering the intense chalk character  that distinguishes Corton-Charlemagne.

Rollin 2017 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 1.5L

Was $339.99

 The Rollin family has been making and bottling wines from Pernand and Aloxe since the mid-1950s and today are one of the best addresses in either commune. These are old-school wines made with a minimum of fuss - treating the vines only when absolutely necessary, hand-harvesting, fermenting only with native yeasts and without slavishly relying on new oak for flavor or richness. Their Charlemagne is a true Charlemagne, with vines on both the Aloxe and Pernand sides. This is notable because the two produce wines of such different character, with the south-facing Aloxe parcels contributing richness and the cooler Pernand side adding tension and freshness but each one delivering the intense chalk character  that distinguishes Corton-Charlemagne.

Morey-Blanc 2017 Aloxe Corton 1er Cru Clos du Chapitre

Was $114.99

Anne Morey is best known for her brilliant and piercing white wines but her reds are no less lovely. "Clos du Chapitre" is from a parcel on the southeast edge of the village of Aloxe, separated from the first of the Corton Grand Crus by a distance  roughly the same as a city block.

Barthod, Ghislaine 2011 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Cras

Boyer-Martenot 2000 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres

Jane et Sylvain 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny

Jane et Sylvain have a superb, tiny parcel of Gevrey 1er Cru "Fonteny," high up in the southwest corner, separated from Grand Cru Ruchottes by a dirt track, certified organic. We have 36 btls of Fonteny for the vintage - given the structure of the "regular" Gevrey from Jane et Sylvain, the Fonteny will benefit from ten years in the cellar and should become a profound wine when mature.  In January of 2014, I tasted the 2002 Fonteny in the cellar with Jane and Sylvain.Their eldest son was born in 2002, so they saved a bunch for him, but were generous enough to share one with my father and me. It was transcendental - what I refer to as my "religious experience" with red Burgundy, and possibly one of the most memorable wines I've ever tasted. Flowers, stones, dried fruit, the subtle touch of tannin...truly a blissful experience. Jane says the wine has "la finesse du Ruchottes," referring to the Grand Cru vineyard that is literally feet away from the edge of their vines.  Eben Lillie

Duroché 2017 Gervrey Chambertin 1er cru Lavaut St. Jacques

Duroché 2017 Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru

Vigot, Fabrice 2016 Vosne Romanee Chalandins

Vigot, Fabrice 2016 Vosne Romanee Colombiere

Vigot, Fabrice 2016 Vosne Romanee Damaudes

Michelot, Alain 2016 Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges

Michelot, Alain 2016 Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Cailles

Lafarge 1997 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chenes

  At this point, there is little less that can or needs to be said about Domaine Michel Lafarge. It is one of the truly classic estates of Burgundy, making what many consider the benchmark wines of Volnay. Though the wines can be firm, even hard, in their youth. However, with age they can be devastatingly beautiful. Here is your chance to try one that is ready to drink!

Chandon de Briailles 2017 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru

Based in the village of Savigny-lès-Beaune with vines in Corton and Pernand-Vergelesses, the estate has roots going back to 1834. Claude de Nicolay, along with her brother François de Nicolay, fashion pure, old-school, age-worthy Burgundy. The vineyard work has been organic since the 1980s and certified biodynamic since 2005 with vines replanted with massale selection. Yields are kept low to express the terroir of each vineyard. 

Chandon de Briailles 2017 Corton Grand Cru Les Maréchaudes

  From a .4 hectare plot, located beneath Corton Bressandes. Ferruginous clay over limestone. Les Maréchaudes was planted between 1974 and 1979 and plowed by horse. Typically the most precocious of the red Corton grand crus at Chandon de Brialles, Les Maréchaudes can be enjoyed after just a few years in bottle, though it will improve over 12-15 years and beyond. The 2017 has a lovely nose offering aromas of crushed strawberry, red plum, black currant, and game. The palate shows a sweet ripeness and expressiveness with pretty flavors of stone fruit, wild raspberry, mustard seed, underlain with a tactile sense of earthiness and Corton spice. The supple fine-grained tannins lend a sense of gravitas and well-integrated acidity offers lift and brightness to the long, lingering finish. A buoyant and vibrant Maréchaudes! John McIlwain

Ponsot 2006 Clos St Denis Grand Cru Tres Vieilles Vignes 1.5 L

Ponsot in magnum?!? We don't often see these wines in regular size bottles and large format bottlings are like hens' teeth. Laurent Ponsot rather famously divested himself of his family estate a few years back, which means that when they are drunk they are gone forever. Clos Saint Denis is generally considered the greatest wine the estate produced, from vines more than one hundred years old. This is a bottle that will guarantee you a favored seat at any table.

Groffier 2007 Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru

 From 80-year old vines. Groffier has been steadily dialing back on extraction and new wood over the past ten to fifteen years. This should be drinking very well at the moment.

Groffier 2008 Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru

From 80-year old vines. Groffier has been steadily dialing back on extraction and new wood over the past ten to fifteen years.

Cathiard, Sylvain 2002 Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts

 Sylvain Cathiard's fanbase has always vastly outstripped the amount of wine produced. With just over four hectares in Chambolle, Vosne and Nuits Saint Georges, Cathiard has been making beautifully opulent wines since taking over the estate from his father in 1995. They are firmly in the mold of Henri Jayer, always destemmed and aged in upwards of 50% new oak. However, the quality of the vineyards and the careful vineyard work produce fruit that handles the wood effortlessly. Today his son Sebastien is firmly in charge and the wines remain some of the best in their various appellations. The opportunity to try one of these from a truly great vintage such as '02 is extremely rare and should not be missed. 

Lapierre 2019 Morgon

  Matthieu and Camille Lapierre continue the beautiful work of their father, producing an elegant Morgon in the solar 2019 vintage. The wines had a dark ruby robe. The nose is a deep-pitched mélange of ripe, bosky red fruits fruits, black tea, bramble, game, and violets. The concentrated palate offers an array of stone, cherry pit, red plum, and licorice flavors with ripe tannins and a snappy mineral spine lending energy and structure that carries over on the long savory finish. This is lovely with a bit of a chill, but will come into its own with 3-5 years in the cellar. John McIlwain

Venus La Universal 2018 Montsant Dido Blanco

Montsant is better known for its red wines, but this fresh and interesting white from Sara and René of Venus La Universal makes a strong case for the region's whites. Made from 50% Macabeu, 40% Garnatxa Blanca and 10% Cartoixa  aka Xarel-lo from organic vineyards, roughly 20% of the grapes are macerated on the skin for 24 hours (providing a soft, complex textural structure to the finished wine) while the remainder are directly pressed into clay amphorae and large old barrels.  Dido Blanc shows the influence of the poor decomposed granitic soils of Falset. These soils and the warm climate help promote full ripening and exuberant fruitiness, while the granite simultaneously expresses itself in the wine with balancing minerality and acidity. This was outstanding with buttery, garlicky shrimp over rice with lime and cilantro and would be similarly well-suited to other flavorful seafood dishes, I think. Ben Fletcher

Venus La Universal 2018 Montsant Dido Rosa

Sara and René of Venus La Universal make one of my favorite rosados every year, and the 2018 continues this trend. Made from a blend of Garnacha, Carignan, and Syrah, plus the white grapes Macabeu, Garnacha Blanca, and Garnacha Gris, all pressed and fermented together and aged for 10 months in barrels before bottling, the Dido Rosa expresses the minerality of the granitic Falset soils in this part of Montsant. While this shows a pale, peach-y pink, this is a dense, deeply mineral rose with gentle tannic structure and notes of raspberry, blood orange, and apricot. If you're opening this right now, I'd encourage you to give it a few hours of air or to decant; if you can, hold on to this so it can reveal more of its seductive character in the next few years.  Ben Fletcher

Vina Mein 2017 Ribeiro Blanco

The Mein vineyard surrounds the old San Clodio monastery in Ribeiro's Avia valley, on the region's classic sandy granitic soils.  Winemaking has a long history here as a project first of the Romans, and then the region's monastic orders. In 1988, the vineyard was replanted to local varieties, first white then red, by Javier Alén and his associates. Since then, the Vina Mein wines have been models for the revitalization of traditional winemaking in Ribeiro, and have evolved towards a bright, dense, style emphasizing purity of fruit: fermented and aged in stainless steel, the wines spend an extended period on the lees to contribute structure and body. The 2017 shows ripe apple, peach and tropical notes on the nose, while the palate is generously peachy and very mineral. The finish is broad and granitic, and this is a great late summer and fall white wine, suited to a range of foods or sipping on its own. Ben Fletcher

Somoza 2016 Valdeorras Godello "Neno"

Viña Somoza is a pioneering winery working to revive Godello, the indigenous white grape of Valdeorras. Javier Garcia works a number of vineyards throughout Valdeorras, all planted to Godello, which has been reestablished as the region's premier white grape after years of dominance by relatively neutral Palomino. Godello has nice texture and weight (especially when raised on the lees, as Neno is), but balanced by a fine and bright acidity. Neno shows the fullness characteristic of Godello with some leesy texture and notes of pear and apple, but also fine acidity (especially in the 2016 vintage) and cooling minerality. Ben Fletcher

Somoza 2016 Valdeorras Via XVIII

Valdeorras is better known for white wines from Godello than red wines, and the Somoza Godello has become something of a staple at Chambers Street the past few years, but this blend of red grapes from a large number of small parcels from Vina Somoza is a lifted, dense, and hedonistic red wine from the region. Winemaker Javier García Alonso macerated Mencía, Garnacha Tintorera, Mouratón, Merenzao, Gran Negro, and Brancellao grapes  together for a little more than a month in  open-topped neutral fermenters before pressing the juice into 400L and 500L barrels to rest on its lees over winter. The result is a spicy, dark fruited wine with notes of plum, blackberry and exotic spices on the nose, and a structured but delicate palate of mixed small berries (raspberry, blackcurrant, blackberry, blueberry) and bright minerality that finishes with long dense spiciness. The character of the Mencía certianly shines through, but the bright acid of Garnacha Tintorera and the delicate red fruit of Merenzao (Jura's Trousseau) are equally apparent. A beautiful wine that opens splendidly with air to reveal more and more length and surprising power. Ben Fletcher

Guímaro 2017 Ribeira Sacra Camiño Real

Guímaro (which means "rebel" in Gallego) was founded by Pedro Rodriguez in 1991, in Amandi, the most celebrated subzone of Ribeira Sacra. Here Mencía and other indigenous varieties (Merenzao, Mouratón, Brancellao, Caiño, Sousón...) are planted on very steep terraced  slopes of slate on the northern bank of the river Sil. The vines on these south-facing slopes (almost cliffs, really - I definitely recommend checking out a photograph of these precariously steep vineyards) produce wines of great mineral intensity and character. Camiño Real comes from six terraced vineyards around Amandi, with about 85% of the blend Mencía and 15% other indigenous red varieties. Pedro harvests the grapes by hand  and ferments them together in open-top oak vats with 40 days of maceration on the skins before raising in an foudre and 225L and 500L barrels. Right now, this shows a bit tight, but it will blossom with air or further bottle age into a great expression of Ribeira Sacra: structured, medium-bodied, spicy and very gastronomic. Ben Fletcher

Bodegas Bhilar 2015 Rioja Phinca El Vedao

El Vedao is a subregion of Elvillar in the Rioja Alavesa that is predominantly planted with Garnacha. David Sampedro biodynamically farms three plots of Garnacha here (using only sulfur and whey in his treating of the vines), and their grapes find their way into this limited production bottling. The grapes for this wine are harvested by hand, then fermented with indigenous yeasts before maturing for two-and-a-half years in used French oak barrels. This is not the extracted, heavy Garnacha that has come to be associated with Aragon: instead it shows a delicate florality and abundant red fruit to complement notes of spice and earth. Ben Fletcher

Ruben Diaz 2019 Sierra de Gredos Cebreros Chasselas Dore

Ruben Diaz makes this  delicate orange wine from old Chasselas vines in the Gredos Mountains. The maceration of the juice on the skins is gentle and relatively brief (about a week), and the resulting wine is  salty, with notes of citrus and stone fruit.  A  beautiful introduction to orange wines, and a really food friendly expression of Chasselas.

Peybonhomme 2019 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux L'Atypic

What's atypical about this delicious wine? It's a blend of Malbec and Cabernet Franc rather than Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, giving the wine a more supple palate and quite different fruit character. More "forward" than most Bordeaux, this versatile wine will pair beautifully with almost any beef, pork or lamb dish and is a fabulous value!

Mazeyres 2014 Pomerol Seuil de Mazeyres

This biodynamically farmed  wine is mostly Merlot (87%) with Cabernet Franc (13%). Showing off the terroir of gravelly and sandy clay soils, the wine is luscious and fresh with an energy unique to Pomerol.  New oak is used but not in excess and sulfur is minimally added. The wine has a dark and plummy hue. The nose displays cassis and black cherry, with hints of cedar. The palate is plummy, with dark cherry, baking spices and a clean mineral vibrancy. Well structured, with integrated tannins and a bright line of acidity. Drinking well now, but definitely has the stuff to mature over the next decade.

Chateau Massereau 2011 Graves

Château Massereau, an estate located in Barsac, has been farming organically since its acquisition by the Chaigneau family in 2000. Made from Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot planted on alluvial soils, the wine ferments in concrete vats and is raised in new barriques for 18 months with minimal addition of sulfur when devatting.  The new oak is "white roasted", leaving no flavors of new oak on the wine. Fresher than its 2010 vintage, the wine displays a bouquet of juicy red plums, dark and red berry, and tart cassis notes with menthol, rose petals and cedar undertones. With a beautiful structure of great acidity, precise minerality and good tannins, the wine is complex and vibrant. A great wine to drink now, this wine will pair fantastically with hamburgers, brisket, beef bourguignon, lamb shanks and hard and blue cheeses.  Caroline Coursant 

Pichon Lalande 2009 Pauillac

Lafite Rothschild 1982 Pauillac 1.5 L

Lulu Vigneron (Lulu Bindernagel) 2016 Côtes du Jura du Vieux Bourg Savagnin

The grapes for this Savagnin were picked by hand from organically farmed vineyards, rooted in marl and calcareous soils. After 8 hours of skin-contact, the wine is fermented in barrel. The nose fits the bill for those seeking mature fruit (soft apple, pear, and dried lemon) with hints of salt, spice, and smoke. But if we’re talking structure, the wine is lightning fresh. The mouthwatering acidity boosts the orchard fruit on the palate with essences of green herbs, dry honey, tea and salinity.

Lulu Vigneron 2016 Côtes du Jura Blanc "BB1"

Ludwig Bindernagel, a favorite of ours from the Jura, currently works with the newly-minted Lulu label. However, when he first came to the region in the early 2000s, he produced wines as Les Chais du Vieux Bourg, the domaine he had purchased. ‘BB1,’ though it may sound technical, or even scientific, stands for ‘Baby One,’ as it was the first cuvée Lulu ever created. It is a blend of Chardonnay and Savignin, and produced in a topped-up, or ouille, style. On both the nose and palate, aromas and flavors of roasted apple, spiced pear, dried apricot and pepper boast of the wine's warm profile. In contrast, the mouthfeel is clean and refreshing, with a driving mineral tone. David Hatzopoulos

Donneurs du Temps 2016 Arbois Chardonnay "Murphy" 1.5 L

Headed by winemaker Guillaume Gilet, Les Donneurs de Temps started with 1.5 hectares in Arbios in 2012, instantly relying on organic methods of viticulture and cellar work. The name of this delicious Jura white is an ode to Murphy’s Law, as during the vintage both Guillaume's best friend Gerard Villet and his father were fighting cancer, the press fell into a tank, the tractor fell over into a ditch, and hundreds of bottles broke in a cellar accident (not to mention the frost!). Guillaume wrote to us that even with all of this catastrophes, he assumes the "paternité" of the wine, which we happen to love as much as he does. This is an assemblage of Chardonnay from the Mailloche vineyard, and a parcel called "Elliot," with 15% Savagnin from 2015 vintage. The nose offers aromas of dried lemons, raw pear, and basil. On the palate, perched upon a refreshing 11.6% ABV, are flavors of tangy citrus, anise, fresh green herbs and grass. David Hatzopoulos 

Donneurs du Temps 2016 Arbois Marnes Grise Rouge 1.5L

After a long career of studying and working in organic viticulture and production throughout France, Guillaume Gilet’s winemaking at Les Donneurs de Temps has been described as “super-natural” (in terms of style) by top Jura wine journalist and store friend, Wink Lorch. Marnes Grises refers to the grey marl that vines are grown on in Arbois. Mostly Poulsard from Gilet’s La Mailloche parcel with a small amount (5% in 2016) of white grapes that are mixed in with the Poulsard. The wine has a beautiful autumnal color scheme, with hints of brown, red, and orange. The aromas are of hibiscus, red cherry, green stems, and a slight smoke. The palate is similar, but a bit more wintry, with flavors of cranberry and pine, with a clean 11.5% ABV. David Hatzopoulos

Marnes Blanches (Geraud Fromont) NV Cotes du Jura Cremant Reserve

100% Chardonnay from vines planted in the 1970s. Tank fermented, elevage in barrel. No dosage and rests on the lees for two years before being disgorged.  A radiant but substantial color of dry, golden grass with a long lasting, frothy crown. The nose has a savory element of baked lemon tart, with an accent of apricot. On the palate, there are flavors of lemon, lime, and a hint of spicy white pepper. The wine crackles on the tongue with strong sparky bubbles, but has some density and texture.  Floats with ease between two contrasting styles, one being rich, the other being zippy. Well placed, right in the middle. David Hatzopoulos

Ratapoil (Raphael Monnier) NV Jura Macvin

The Ratapoil Macvin is a blend of Chardonnay and marc, produced in 2010 at 17.5 % alcohol. "A deguster a l'aperitif ou en fin du repas."

Barth, Laurent 2012 Alsace Grand Cru Marckrain 500ml

Beautifully balanced Vendanges tardive (late harvest) level, sweet Gewurztraminer from the Grand Cru Marckrain! A beautiful wine that is singing at the moment. Any fan of residual sugar should grab a bottle!

Bois-Brincon 2012 Anjou Clos Bertin (Cabernet Franc)

A dark-fruited, forest floor, rustic but effortlessly elegant, aged Cabernet Franc from Anjou.

Bois-Brincon 2016 Anjou La Seigneurie (Cabernet Franc)

 This is a smooth and balanced Cabernet Franc from Anjou. Some black fruit and spice on the nose, and silky tannins in mid-palate. Worth ageing a bit or enjoying with some grilled veggies or poultry.

Bois-Brincon 2017 Anjou Terre de Gres (Chenin)

  Textbook Chenin Blanc from Anjou, with ample richness and finesse. Very balanced, with pleasant acidity, and a long finish.

Lambert, Patrick 2019 Chinon Gourmandise

The 2019 "Gourmandise" is a beautiful "drink young" cuvée from Patrick Lambert, made from Cabernet Franc vines grown on sandy gravel soils near the Vienne. The wine shows a bright black/red color with lush high-toned aromas of crushed strawberry and black raspberry, with hints of citrus and pepper. The palate is supple and bright with luscious black raspberry and red currant fruit, quite lush and full-bodied in this superb vintage for the Loire, light but deep and long with hints of bitter chocolate and cocoa, but still with refreshing  acidity. Serve this lovely wine quite cool with charcuterie and grilled chicken, pork or burgers, it's a perfect quaffing Cab Franc to drink over the next  2 years - and a fabulous value!  David Lillie

Boudignon 2018 Anjou Blanc

Thibaud Boudignon is an established star in the Loire Valley wine scene, especially amongst lovers of Chenin Blanc from the schist vineyards of Anjou, and Savennieres. The Anjou Blanc here is from 35 year old vines of Chenin, with mostly old barrels used for aging, along with about 20% new oak. Though some of his wines can be quite big and rich, with more density and creaminess in the mid-palate, this entry-level is refreshingly lean and balanced. The mineral backbone is quite present, and we get an honest expression of "Chenin sur schiste." A great introduction to an all-star producer.   -EL

Courault, Benoît 2018 Anjou Gilbourg (Magnum)

Gilbourg is one of two “grands vins” made by Benoît Courault, who I consider one of the masters of Chenin on schistes. Made from a blend of different plots on the Coteau des Mailles in Faye d’Anjou, the heart is the vineyard of Le Prieuré de Gastines. This is a superb terroir on the top of the hill, less than 2 miles away from Bonnezeaux. Benoit started to farm that vineyard in 2009, and it took him almost 5 years of work to recreate topsoils and have a decent yield. But he knew the wine from that terroir could be exceptional: these shallow lighter silts with veins of phtanites (a silica-rich sedimentary rock) over altered schistes are fantastic for deep, powerful yet refined Chenin. The grapes are hand-harvested, pressed whole in a vertical pneumatic, settled overnight. Fermentation starts in tanks then finishes in Grenier foudre. As they lasted longer than usual (the summer drought decreased the amount of nitrogen available for the yeast to function quickly) so Benoit had to monitor very carefully. The wine was bottled by Christian Brault in October 2019.  With its pale gold color, you know you are going to enjoy a deep wine. On the nose, you pick up a lot of quince, white peach, kumquat, candle wax with a hint of fenugreek, pepper and Bourbon vanilla. The nose is quite fascinating and evolves a lot with air without losing its complexity. On the palate, you understand you are dealing with a great terroir: with its tense, nervy acidity, the structure is dense, powerful but not heavy at all, the ripeness counterpointed by some discreet tannins, saltiness and an elegant salivating bitterness. There is a lot going on already, but you can cellar this wine with no problem for at least a decade - the wine will gain even more complexity. The flavors are fresher than on the nose, with a lot of tamarin, pink grapefruit, gardenia and white pepper. The finish is really long, and typical of the schist with earl-grey notes. A terrific wine! Serve it in a large glass, not too cold, and decant if possible (especially if you open it in a couple of years). It would be perfect with a Turbot on the bone with a beurre blanc, a fried heirloom breed chicken or some bay scallops served with chestnut and celery. 100% Chenin. Pascaline Lepeltier.

Courault, Benoît 2018 Vin de France La Coulée (Grolleau) 1.5 L

We love Grolleau! This underrated grape unique to the Loire Valley does not have the recognition it deserved, as it was for a long time used for off-dry rosé made from clones selected for their yield. But with high quality vines, great terroir and care, Grolleau can make really good wines! Imagine a mix between a Gamay from Saint-Amour, a Pineau d’Aunis from the Coteaux du Loir and a Pinot from Sancerre: this is what the best Grolleau can taste like, which means Benoît Courault’s La Coulée. Made from 40+ year old vines growing on the Coteau des Mailles in Faye d’Anjou, the silty clay soil over altered schists give a remarkable structure to the wine. In this vintage because of the heat, Ben added a little bit of Pineau d’Aunis and a touch of Chenin. The grapes are hand-harvested, co-vinified whole-cluster in semi-carbonic maceration with some pigeage at the end of the 12 days maceration. Press and free-run are blended, then the wine is aged in used Burgundy barrels. It is bottled unfined unfiltered by Christian Brault in October 2019, with just a little sulfur added at racking. Give the wine a quick decant to reveal a hedonistic nose of wild rose, pink peppercorn, fennel, forest floor. Blind, you would have a hard time guessing this wine : the attack has the delicacy of Pinot from the Southern Côte-de-Beaune, the mid-palate the flesh of a cru Beaujolais, and the finish the spiciness of Pineau d’Aunis. It may be simple on the first sip, but the more you taste it, the longer and more complex it shows with notes of rosemary, iris, black pepper and humus. This is a very serious wine, and indeed one of the very best Grolleaux. Benoit, usually very humble, is quite happy about it, which means a lot! Serve it today decanted or in a Burgundy glass, or keep it 10 years. It can handle a little chill. Pair it with a smoked trout served with a Basque stew, or some charcuterie like fennel soppressata or pata negra. 80% Grolleau, 15% Pineau d’Aunis, 5% Chenin. Pascaline Lepeltier.

Creve Coeur (Pablo Hocht) 2019 Côtes du Rhône Rosé du Coucou

(Was $13.99)  The Creve Coeur "Coucou" is a beautiful direct-press rosé made with  old vines of 60% Grenache and 40% Cinsault. The 2019 shows a very pale onion skin color with floral aromas of raspberry, peach, citrus and stone. The palate is very light, silky and elegant with subtle raspberry fruit with hints of melon and earth, finishing with nice length of mineral flavors and refreshing acidity. This is a very lovely wine at a great price!  David Lillie

Laguerre 2019 Côtes du Roussillon Eos Rosé

(Was $14.99) We've always loved Eric's rather full-bodied rosé, made from Grenache, Carignan and Syrah, but this year he decided to make a lighter, fresher wine from Grenache Gris and Carignan and it's really delicious! it shows a pretty, pale pink color with subtle aromas of rose and raspberry. The palate is fresh, light and round with lovely red and yellow fruit flavors, quite crisp and long. This is a complex, refreshing and delicious rosé and a sensational value!  David Lillie

Lambert, Patrick 2019 Chinon Rosé

 This delightful Chinon Rosé comes from Patrick Lambert's 6 hectares of organic vines in Cravant, around the corner from his friend and mentor, Bernard Baudry. Hand harvested from 20+ year-old Cabernet Franc vines on gravel and sandy clay soils over limestone. The 2019 is just delightful, showing a very light pale pink color and  lovely aromas of wild strawberry, red currant, raspberry, citrus and rose; the palate is ripe and pretty with raspberry, citrus and stone flavors with nice density and texture, a bit dryer and lighter than the 2018, with juicy acids, berry flavors and minerals in the finish. This is drinking beautifully now and will open up nicely through the spring and summer and will be quite delicious through 2021. (March 2021 - this is yummy new inventory just arrived from Patrick's cellar) This is a fabulous value and highly recommended!   David Lillie 

Guion 2019 Bourgueil Rosé

 (Arrives 7/26) Our review from July 2020: Of course we love the great Cabernet Franc rosés from the Loire and a special favorite of ours is the vibrant Bourgueil from Stéphane Guion in Benais. Organic since 1964, the estate produces superb wines on the limestone/clay soils, and this year's rosé is perhaps his best ever! The color is a lovely pale pink and the raspberry and red currant fruit is supple, complex and refreshing, remaining light but with lovely complex fruit, herbal notes and a particularly long and focused finish with firm acidity. It's an amazing value at $14.99, and will drink beautifully for many more years, case purchases are recommended!

Manissy 2019 Tavel Cuvée des Lys Rose

Tavel, the warm, Grenache-based rosé famously espoused by AJ Liebling, is perhaps more suited for the table than a light quaff on the patio. A darker pink than your typical salmon-hued wines of Southern France with a palate to match, Tavel, if you'll forgive the idea, is a more "serious" rosé. The organically farmed Manissy 'Cuvée des Lys' is dark-fruited with ripe plum and garrigue on the nose, with the spicy warmth of sun-kissed Grenache on the medium-bodied palate followed by a hint of pleasing tannic bitterness on the finish. Served cool, this savory richness makes it a rosé especially suited for grilled meats, big flavors like tapenade, and sheep's milk cheeses on a late summer night.

Guillemot-Michel 2018 Viré-Clessé Une Bulle

The Guillemot-Michel "Une Bulle" comes from a tiny parcel of old vines on limestone with red clay, high in iron. The wine is a Pet-Nat (Methode Ancestrale) that is bottled after a short period of fermentation, leaving enough sugar in the wine for the fermentation to continue and create the desired bubbles. The wine is aged in bottle on the lees for around 18 months, then riddled and disgorged and re-bottled with a bit more "Une Bulle."  The result is a very delicious aged Pet-Nat showing honeyed aromas of pear and white peach with hints of almond, marzipan and brioche. On the palate the mousse is soft and creamy with flavors of peach and quince  with lime-flower and minerals and a long finish of white fruits, citrus peel and firm acidity. This is a delightful wine to sip by itself or pair with mild cheeses, patés and terrines, fruit desserts..  David Lillie

Mas des Chimères 2018 Terrasses du Larzac Caminarem

"Caminarèm," from winemaker Guilhem Dardé, is a blend of equal parts Cinsault, Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Carignan from the Terrasses du Larzac AOC. The vines range in age from 20 to 100 years old and are planted in basalt soils. The grapes are hand harvested, de-stemmed, fermented with native yeasts, then assembled and matured in various sized barrels for a year before bottling. The wine's color is a dark red. On the nose there are blackberries and plums, an accent of roasted meat and cedar. The palate has similar dark fruits, along with a touch of peppery spice. There is good acidity, paired with a healthy dash of tannin and a plush, soft core.  The wine has a long, herbaceous finish. 

Pibarnon 1995 Bandol Rouge 3L

**originally priced $399.99**

Alzinger 2018 Wachau Dürnstein Riesling Federspiel

Familie Bauer 2018 Neiderosterreich Roter Veltliner Wagram Terrass

Jurtschitsch 2019 Niederosterreich Rosé vom Zweigelt

Nikolaihof 2015 Wachau Riesling Vom Stein Federspiel

Stagard 2015 Kremstal Steiner Hund Riesling Reserve

Prager 2017 Wachau Riesling Smaragd Achleiten

Knoll 2001 Wachau Gruner Veltliner Smarag Ried Loibenberg

White pepper and black fruit – what a combo! And distinctly nutty/grainy aromas as well. A rich, peachy, totally dry white wine, with creamy texture and great length. Fascinating and delicious wine that goes well with a great many foods – a great match for Asian spices, for instance. JW Nearly 15 years on from the vintage, Knoll's 2001 Loibenberg GV is a quite impressive wine, with the peachy flavors Jamie first wrote about years ago having mostly receded, leaving in their place a citric, herbaceous Grüner with telltale aromas and flavors of nuts, grains and lentils. Knoll's wines age wonderfully, retaining freshness and loads of character, even after their obvious, forward fruit has faded. Still youthful but showing quite well and promises to unfold more over the next 5-10 years. John Ritchie

Zillinger, Johannes 2018 Weinviertel Velue Riesling

'Velue' is the old name of the town where the Zillinger farm is based. Vines for this bottling come from an eastern-facing slope, the average age is 30 years-old. Spontaneous fermentation occurs in stainless steel tank, and the wine stays in contact with the lees for five months, with occasional batonnage, bottled unfined and unfiltered. This Riesling is incredibly vibrant; the nose is racy and redolent with stonefruit, mirrored on the palate as juicy nectarine, underripe peach, with tangy tangerine and mango. Bright and lively and a great introduction to the estate. Cari Bernard

Zillinger, Johannes 2018 Weinviertel Velue Zweigelt

Adam, A.J. 2018 Mosel Riesling Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Spätlese

 When this was first tasted in the summer of 2019, it needed to shake some of its SO2 on the nose, but that will just take time. Beyond the SO2 are delicate, beautiful florals. The palate is sprightly and fresh, with notes of grapefruit, mango, and cassis. I have 'great' underlined twice in my notes. This is a wine to age, or if opening now, do so about a half-hour early and pair with spicy foods or cheese plates. Cari Bernard

Ehrhard, Carl 2017 Rheingau Riesling Trocken 'Naturlich'

Dr. Thanisch 2012 Mosel Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Spatlese

Beurer, Jochen 2017 Württemberg Riesling Schilfsandstein

Jochen Beurer produces this dry and balanced Riesling from Jurrasic limestone and sandstone terraces in Swabia. The 2017 has nice intensity and verve on the attack, and good weight and length on the finish.

Collective Z 2018 Pfälzer Landwein Sylvaner Kalkoven Unfiltriert

Silvaner from the Leistadt subregion in the Pfalz. “Kalkofen” (chalk oven), is a warm, limestone-rich site. Grapes are fermented in large barrels, with 2 days of skin contact, and long aging on the lees. For fans of cloudy, unfiltered whites, search no farther, and for fans of Silvaner (Sylvaner), this is definitely recommended.

Beurer, Jochen 2018 Zweigelt

Fratelli Alessandria 2015 Barolo Monvigliero

Dark red fruit, limestone – a juicy underpinning for firm chalky tannin, rich and lifted, pure and delicious. A grand cru wine, and some competition for that other Monvigliero…Jamie Wolff

Altura (Famiglia Carfagna) 2018 IGT Toscana Ansonaco dell'Isola del Giglio

Antoniolo 1973 Gattinara

Antoniolo 1973 Spanna Santachiara

La Bettigna 2015 Vino Bianco Passito Doze (Vermentino)

Boggione, Claudio 2015 Barolo Brunate

After a decent interval to let the wine breathe, the 2015 shows its great potential – fragrant with flowers and earth; plenty of bright juicy fruit, but overall savory in character, with pronounced ripe tannins – as you taste the wine it blossoms, expressing both finesse and the power of Brunate - and it becomes increasingly delicious. I will put some bottles in the cellar, but given sufficient time in the decanter you can enjoy this now. Jamie Wolff

Brovia 2015 Barolo Brea Ca'Mia

The range of wines at Brovia always show individual character, but this is amplified in 2015. Alex Sanchez (of Brovia) told us that he sees 2015 as first “a vintage of terroir”; when we get to the Brea Ca’Mia one of our group says “Serralunga to 11”, which pretty well sums it up, except that there are only a few other wines from Serralunga of this quality (side diatribe: most Rionda misses the standard). As usual the Ca’Mia is the most tannic and structured of the line-up, this is certainly a long-term prospect. 111 points. Jamie Wolff

Brovia 2015 Barolo Garblet Sué

I thought this was the best Garblet Sue I’ve tasted in 20 years of visiting Brovia. I often find this wine opaque (from a sensory perspective), but I don’t think I’ve had a chance to taste a mature bottle. By contrast the 2015, while quite dense and rich, was very expressive and showed a depth and complexity that was exciting. One for the cellar. Jamie WolffAll density, dark fruit, and spice. More medicinal than the normale bottling, with black cherry, cedar, licorice and baking spice. Quite dark and brooding, this will need a number of years to come into it's own. Oskar Kostecki

Clerico, Domenico 2003 Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra 1.5L

Vinica 2011 Tintilia del Molise Lame del Sorbo

Tasting Vinica’s Tintilia makes me wonder how this grape ever fell out of favor in Molise in the first place. It seems particularly well adapted to the high altitude vineyards of the region, showing a balance between ripe fruit and fresh acidity. The grapes are crushed at low pressure and allowed to ferment naturally in open top vessels before being held in steel tanks for two years. There is no temperature control at any point, which allows malolactic fermentation to occur naturally over time. The wine has a pleasant herbal tone of green pepper that peaks out on the nose over tart berry fruit, red roses, and moist earth. The palate is quite fresh and marked by bright acidity and soft tannins with a pleasant, earthy finish. This may not be a wine to cellar for ten years but it is a wine that casually conveys a sense of joy and is a carefree food pairing choice. Give it a try with rich pasta dishes, roast pork, stuffed mushrooms or open it at your next summer barbeque. Andy Paynter

La Visciola 2015 Passerina del Frusinate IGT Donna Rosa

Passerina is a grape that I have little experience with beyond the wines of La Visciola in Lazio, which is a real shame given the depth of flavor a lifted texture the wines show.  An obscure variety native to Lazio (and possibly distinct from a grape also named Passerina that grows along Italy’s Adriatic coast). The 2015 shows a more lifted character than the 2014.  The nose is fairly tight on opening, giving notes of tart apple and pear leading into thyme and white flowers after a few minutes in the glass.  Medium body with a soft texture and crisp acidity, the flavors show more candied lemon peel, green apple, and tart pear.  Try it with grilled fish, potato or white pizza, soft cheese, or cured pork. Andy Paynter

La Visciola 2015 Cesanese del Piglio DOCG Priore Superiore

The nose on La Visciola's 2015 Priore Superiore brings a warm wood shop to mind. Fresh resin, smoke, pine and candle wax. Additionally, there are airier aromas of dark flowers, clove, mint, and even a hint of something savory, like paprika. The palate is generous, with low acidity and a plush softness structured by imposing tannin. Displayed are flavors of deep red cherry fruit, pine, birch, and turned earth. The color of the wine is rustic, balancing between it's dark red core and clear mahogany edges. One of the most soothing Cesanese wines I've tasted, combining power with a certain mature, tempered character. Drinking great right now. David Hatzopoulos