Even more wine from two fine private collections

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Pradeaux 2017 Bandol Rosé

A blend of Mourvedre and Cinsault, the 2017 Chateau Pradeaux is a punchy, complex, and layered example of Bandol Rosé. The nose offers beguiling aromas of watermelon, blood orange, and pink grapefruit peel with hints of garrigue. The rich, earthy palate displays a salty mineral character vying for attention with flavors of cut melon, nectarine, and roasted peaches. The finish is long, supple, and detailed. And while we may think of rosé's pleasures as fleeting, this will age beautifully in the mid-term as it gains even more complexity with time in the bottle. John McIlwain

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Brovia 2010 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione

Rocche is not exactly what you might call feminine in character (and in that sense it’s probably silly to refer to any Barolo as Chambolle-esque), but all things being relative, Rocche reminds me more and more of Chambolle for finesse and balance. This is apparent in Brovia Rocche 2010, which is one example of the vintage that recalls 1989 – amazing purity, and plenty of power with beautiful balance. It’s an elegant wine, and I think a great wine, but tight and tough now. Let’s meet in 2025… Jamie Wolff

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Brovia 2010 Barolo Villero

Villero showed dark, dense, tight, full of texture and material, very tannic and not presently very nuanced, but it’s clearly a very very good wine. How? Because it’s all there – aromatically intense, packed with fruit, and very ripe tannins. It’s an infant; aside from tasting for the sake of science it makes no sense to try to drink this now. Jamie Wolff

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Brovia 2011 Barolo Brea Ca'Mia

Ca'Mia is beautiful and intense – a direct reminder of the white soil, mineral chalk earth of the vineyard. It’s quite rich but suave, hitting a balance of depth and intensity with a fundamentally austere and elegant character. A great success. Jamie Wolff *Brea is the official name of the cru; Ca'Mia is the Brovia's proprietary name for their vines in Brea.

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Brovia 2011 Barolo Garblet Sué

Garblet Sue shows more fruit on the nose and warmer notes overall than the other crus. Again a balance between richness and austerity, with drier intense tannin, showing some of the warmth of the vintage. At present quite tight and less expressive than some of the other wines, this is nonetheless going to be very memorable given time in the cellar. Jamie Wolff

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Brovia 2013 Barolo Brea Ca'Mia

If your child was born in 2013, or if you were married in 2013, or if you can think of any other plausible excuse to buy the Brea Ca’Mia, AND if you can cellar it for years to come, then don’t hesitate. It’s a very impressive wine. Jamie Wolff

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Brovia 2013 Barolo Garblet Sué

This is my favorite Garblet-Sue to date – I thought the wine showed more transparency and lift than my memory of previous vintages. It’s very much a piece with the Brovia 2013s – dark and fairly full-bodied but energetic, and with very appealing strawberry fruit, mint and lots of savory character. Jamie Wolff

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Brovia 2015 Barolo

At $58.99, this is a bargain Barolo – no irony intended / all things being relative. The 2015 is about 70% Brea Ca’Mia, a Grand Cru if there ever was one. Brea accounts for the intensely chalky, savory profile of the wine – a baby at this stage, and in need of a good 10 years asleep in the cellar. Still, a bargain! Jamie Wolff

A lot of structure in this young Barolo, and even after being open for over 4 hours it still seemed quite austere. Yet nonetheless very impressive, with a lot of complexity. Notes of medicinal cherry, raspberry, rhubarb, citrus peel, burnt orange peel, and very pretty floral tones of fresh and dried roses. The palate shows prominent tannins that will take a few years to soften. No need to rush this wine. Oskar Kostecki

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Brovia 2015 Barolo Brea Ca'Mia

The range of wines at Brovia always show individual character, but this is amplified in 2015. Alex Sanchez (of Brovia) told us that he sees 2015 as first “a vintage of terroir”; when we get to the Brea Ca’Mia one of our group says “Serralunga to 11”, which pretty well sums it up, except that there are only a few other wines from Serralunga of this quality (side diatribe: most Rionda misses the standard). As usual the Ca’Mia is the most tannic and structured of the line-up, this is certainly a long-term prospect. 111 points. Jamie Wolff

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Brovia 2015 Barolo Garblet Sué

I thought this was the best Garblet Sue I’ve tasted in 20 years of visiting Brovia. I often find this wine opaque (from a sensory perspective), but I don’t think I’ve had a chance to taste a mature bottle. By contrast the 2015, while quite dense and rich, was very expressive and showed a depth and complexity that was exciting. One for the cellar. Jamie WolffAll density, dark fruit, and spice. More medicinal than the normale bottling, with black cherry, cedar, licorice and baking spice. Quite dark and brooding, this will need a number of years to come into it's own. Oskar Kostecki

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Brovia 2015 Barolo Villero

– A beauty – tight, of course, and subtle and austere now, I thought this was a gorgeous Villero, with everything you’d want in a wine to put away for 20 years. Very fine indeed. Jamie Wolff

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Burlotto 2011 Barolo Acclivi

The so-called Market remains a thing of mystery (the Wine Market, that is; forget knowing anything about any other Market); somehow I think we cruise alongside, part of the Market but not really of it. Maybe it’s just wishful thinking, and in any case this isn’t a statement of superiority –but the quantities we get of most of what we sell are so small that our enthusiasms (or lack of enthusiasm for other wine) is hardly going to move the needle on any meter. For example, we have 24 bottles of Acclivi to sell, and not more than 60 of any other Burlotto wine. We’re told that The Market was crazy for 2010 Barolo, a vintage I also prefer, but one that was more austere and obviously structured than 2011, and which will need much more time in the cellar; the good 2011s, like this Barolo Acclivi, combine reasonable elegance and structure with ripeness and approachability. I found the Acclivi to be a classic wine, in a rich and suave mode. What’s not to like? Jamie Wolff

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Gea, Fabbio 2012 Barbaresco Riserva Notu Andava a Tartufi

 “Grandpa goes to hunt truffles without a dog” – also a sensible description of the wine for its truffley, woodsy core of aromas, lifted by lovely strawberry fruit and acidity. Forget about what you might think about the vintage – this wine has its own distinct wild personality. Jamie Wolff

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Produttori del Barbaresco 1970 Barbaresco

Black cherry and kirsch flavors are underlined by subtle hints of bresaola, dark chocolate, and fresh earth. It's not a powerful vintage, but nevertheless impresses with its lightness, litheness, and elegance (2/28/16).  Jonas Mendoza

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Produttori del Barbaresco 1974 Barbaresco

1974 was a sleeper vintage for the Produttori, and it has definitely impressed on two separate occasions while tasting vertical flights of the cooperative's normale. Ripe red and black cherry fruit flavors mingle with secondary notes of balsamic, dark chocolate, and spaded earth. The medium body and robustness is supported by a quite lithe texture (1/17/17). Jonas Mendoza

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