Ecu (Fred Niger) 2018 Vin de France "Aeterno" Syrah (Amphora)

Fred Niger made this gorgeous Syrah with grapes from David Reynaud in Crozes-Hermitage ("les Croix") vinified and bottled with zero additives, aged for 9 months in amphora of 400 and 500 liters, less than 200 cases produced.  Tasted at the end of a very long day, after many great wines and with a tired palate, the 2018 "Aeterno" was still magnificent! Thanks to Fred's notes, much better than mine:  "Intense color, inky black with violet hints.Nose marked by smoky notes of ripe black fruits, of blueberry, violet, white pepper. A supple attack leading to a powerful wine, full palate, opulent and massive, balanced by tannins fine and delicate. The structure of this wine is built around a beautiful northern-Rhône acidity, which brings great freshness. Sensational length."  This is a beautiful wine from a great terroir, really an extraordinary expression of Syrah. Carafe when young, drink over the next ten to fifteen years.

Ecu (Fred Niger) 2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Orthogneiss

The superb Domaine de L'Ecu Orthogneiss is from a 3-hectare parcel with 45-55 year-old vines facing southwest. The top soil is granulous and not very deep (30-50 cm). Sub-soil of orthogneiss, a metamorphosed igneous rock where minerals are arranged in bands, organically farmed since 1975, biodynamic-Demeter certified since 1998. Soil worked manually and yields are kept low. All grapes are hand harvested,  gravity fed with no use of pumps. Wild yeast fermentation, minimal SO2 used, aged on the lees in underground vats for 15-18 months. The 2018 Orthogneiss shows a pale gold color and complex ripe aromas of lemon, pineapple, marzipan, dried pear and anise - quite expressive and intriguing. The palate is dense and ripe with citrus, melon, anise and stone fruits backed by very firm lemony acidity and intense saline mineral flavors that continue in the finish. This will accompany full-flavored oysters, but best with fish in sauce, scallops and lobster. Drink this beautiful wine over the next ten years.  David Lillie

Ecu (Fred Niger) 2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Granite

Guy Bossard is one of the heroes of French viticulture, having rejected modern chemical farming upon assuming the family estate, becoming certified organic in 1972, then progressing to Biodynamic farming in 1996. And this in a region where there was little recognition or financial reward for his intense work and the higher quality of his wines. Guy has been an inspiration for many growers in the region and  the estate continues under the capable and imaginative direction of Fred Niger van Herck.  The Domaine de l'Ecu  "Granite" is always one of the most distinctive of Muscadet, with the Melon de Bourgogne coming from 50-year-old vines in a parcel of stony soils on "granite a deux micas." On the nose, the minerals are boldly pronounced, with notes of almond skins, cantaloupe, Meyer lemon, and sea spray. The palate is a fine mix of lemon zest, saline stones, some under-ripe pear, and white flowers. A gorgeous wine to pair with oysters (of course), langoustines, or Coquille Saint-Jacques.

Orieux, Stéphane 2016 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Cru Vallet

The 2016 Stephane Orieux (Bregeonnette) "Vallet" is from 40-year-old vines on mica schist soils. Hand harvested, then direct press into underground, glass-lined cement tanks where it fermented naturally with wild yeasts. 30 month sur-lie aging.  This is a beautiful Muscadet that has benefitted from the 30 months on the lees, showing classic aromas of lemon verbena, almond, anise, pear, white peach and stone, really lovely. The palate is round and supple but framed in the firm acidity normally present in 2016s, with vibrant citrus and mineral flavors underlying round white fruits, continuing in the long crisp and saline finish. This is lovely now served with sole, cod and haddock, but will accompany fuller flavored fish as well. Drink until 2030 and please serve in a large Bordeaux or Burgundy glass. David Lillie

Landron, Jo (Louvetrie) 2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Les Houx

(Last of the 2018 vintage!) Jo Landron's 2018 "Les Houx" (formerly known as "Hermine D'Or") is from a great parcel of thin sandy clay soils, rich with silica, quartz and iron, over a bedrock of gneiss and clay. Kept on the lees for 12 months. Normally one of the most scintillating and mineral of Muscadets, the 2018 is slightly riper and rounder but remains essentially a mouthful of terroir. The wine shows lovely aromas of ripe pear, stone and anise that open nicely with aeration. The palate is round and mineral, framed in firm acidity with ripe white fruits, citrus, stone and licorice and there's a nice mineral kick in the finish. Delicious now, this will develop nicely over the next few years, and will accompany oysters and grilled seafood, from flounder to monkfish, roast chicken and mild cheeses. David Lillie

Landron, Jo 2015 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Le Fief du Breil

Jo Landron's Fief du Breil is from a beautiful, walled vineyard sloping towards the Sèvre, with clay, sand and quartz stones over a bedrock of orthogneiss. The vines average 40 to 50 years of age, the vineyard is certified organic and biodynamic and gives very low yields. This beautiful wine needs aeration or decanting, then shows aromas of grapefruit skin, pear, lime-flower, candied citrus and almond. The palate is perfectly balanced and intensely mineral - showing ripe white fruits, almond, anise and stone flavors with firm acidity and pronounced flavors of stone and saline mineral. This is a bit more forward than the granite-based wines - really superb as a young wine served with shellfish, grilled fish and roast chicken. As usual with great Muscadet it will age beautifully and pair with monkfish, lobster and goat cheeses. Very little was imported, don't miss it!  David Lillie (Oops, most already sold - more is arriving in April.)

Pépière 2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine s Lie La Pépie

(Please note - This is the very last inventory of 2018 "La Pépie" - The 2019 has arrived will be available as well. Tasted last January, it showed a bit more expessive and floral aromas than the 18 and a slightly fuller palate, a different but equally lovely wine and great value!)

Domaine de la Pépière 2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie "La Pépie"  is now from the second bottling, with grapes from older vines that were picked later - the wine is denser with more minerality and acidity than the first bottling - really a delicious and well-structured Muscadet. Don't delay in grabbing a case or two before it disappears...!

Pépière 2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Les Gras Moutons

This lovely wine clearly illustrates the difference between the granite and gneiss terroirs in Muscadet. Gras Moutons is a great parcel on gneiss, in layers that permit a deep penetration by the vines, with sandy clay and amphibolite stones. The vines are at the top of a hill and on the south-facing slope overlooking the Maine. (The name, by the way, does not refer to fat sheep, but rather in local dialect, to the hilltop vineyard site.) This terroir produces lovely, classic Muscadet to drink over the next 5 to 8 years, it has a more herbal and floral bouquet than the granite-based wines and the palate, although refreshing and bright, is softer and more open. The 2018 Gras Moutons is a sensational Muscadet showing a pale bronze color and beautiful aromas of ripe pear and quince with hints of anise, stone and almond; The palate is very dense and mineral with ripe pear and white peach, quite supple and ripe but framed in firm acidity. The finish is long and dense with white fruits, citrus and an almost bitter mineral aspect - this will pair beautifully with a full-flavored fish or chicken dish. Five to eight years of aging will bring out the complexity of this lovely wine. Highly recommended and a great value!  David Lillie

Pépière 2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Briords VV (Arrival mid June)

(Note: Pre-Arrival sales by the case only, please!) First produced in 1988, this great Muscadet is made from a three hectare parcel of old massale-selection vines (all over 60 years old, with a high percentage much older) on a slope above the Maine. The bedrock is Granite de Château Thébaud, a fissured rock that allows the vines to penetrate deeply, with ideal thin topsoils of clay, with sand and gravel allowing good drainage. 2018 was  a vintage of sunshine despite rains and mildew in the spring that lowered yields. The 2018 "Briords" shows vivid aromas of dried pear, bitter lemon, anise and herbs with surprising hints of exotic fruit backed with earth and mineral notes. The aromatic ripeness is more restrained on the palate which shows beautifully supple and dense  pear and ripe apple fruit with quite firm acidity and finishing with nice grip and mineral flavors that linger on the palate. This is a beautiful "Briords," reminding me of 2009 - irresistible now but with enough acidity and structure to be a fabulous mature wine in 2029. Highly recommended! David Lillie

Pépière 2017 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clisson

The 2017 "Clisson" reminds us of the superb 2014 - subtle, fine and elegant, and at the same time dense and powerful, yet with only 12.5 % alcohol. The wine shows a very pale bronze color lovely aromas of lemon zest, fresh herbs, stone, almond and dried pear and apple, very elegant, with hints of pineapple, anise and brown spice. The palate shows nice ripeness, density and weight but remains delicate and fresh with pear, citrus zest and intense mineral flavors with a finish that is very long and lemony and slightly astringent with food-friendly minerality. The 2017 Clisson is a delightful wine - serve as often as possible with oysters, little-necks, grilled seafood and roast chicken. Put some in the cellar to enjoy over its  20+ year evolution while enjoying with fish in sauce and shellfish. Thank you Marc, Remi and Gwenaëlle for another beautiful wine!

Pépière 2015 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Gorges

We're ecstatic to have this superb new Muscadet from Pépière. The product of an exchange of juice with Fred Lailler at Domaine Bregeon (pressed at Bregeon), the wine undergoes a slow fermentation and is then aged 42 months on the lees. Marc Ollivier considers this his favorite of his bottlings right now, along with the Château-Thébaud. From Bregeon's vines on Gabbro with clay topsoil (in conversion to organic) the 2015 Gorges is a complex, dense and beautifully structured wine, with unique aromas showing almond, smoke and petrol notes in addition to stone, pear, quince and mushroom. The palate is dense and intensely mineral with ripe pear and quince, earth, almond, anise and citrus notes, with stone, lemon peel and white fruits lingering in the very long finish. Although vibrant and delicious now, we would recommend waiting for eight to ten years before opening for peak enjoyment. Highly recommended!  David Lillie

Pépière 2014 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Cru Château Thébaud

(Note: This is the last inventory in 750ml, magnums are on the way!) The Domaine de la Pépière Château Thébaud "Clos des Morines" comes from old vines on a beautiful vineyard with great terroir sloping down towards the river Maine. The granite here (Granit de Château Thébaud, oddly enough) is fissured and permeable by the vine roots which have access to water during dry spells and absorb micro-nutrients along the way.  2009, 2010, 2012 and 2015 here were among the best of the vintage in Muscadet and the 2014 will stand out as perhaps the finest yet due to the perfect combination of great density and minerality with the very firm acidity of this superb year for Muscadet - those of you lucky enough to have the 2014 Pépière Clisson in your cellar understand just what a special vintage this is. From Remi Branger at Pépière: "As the wine aged we performed three bâtonnages and after three and a half years sur lie, in April 2018, we decided to bottle it. We then decided to leave it  another year in bottle before offering it for sale. For us, the 2014 Château Thébaud is a wine with a great potential for cellaring. In its youth, the wine was very austere but the prolonged élevage sur lie allowed it to develop well and it benefited further from the additional year in bottle. Recent tastings of the wine confirm to us that we made the right choice for the aging, because it has the balance we hoped for with a finish of power and tension."

Luneau-Papin 2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine "L" d'Or Granit Vallet

There's plenty to contemplate about this classic, but expressive Muscadet. This is the flagship wine for Domaine Luneau-Papin from their parcels of 45+ year old vines based on granite in the village of Vallet. The wine is fermented and aged in stainless steel and spends 9-11 months on the lees to enhance its weight and texture. Whether it's the effect of extended lees aging, or the way the Loire pulls ocean air across the vineyards, the aroma of sea spray and taste of salinity definitely carries through and lingers on your tongue. Notes of freshly cut herbs and juicy, green pear mingle with Meyer lemon zest and crushed river rocks. The acidity is a driving force, but it is by no means a sharp or thin wine.  There's still enough density and body to carry it.  Of course this would be an excellent pairing for white fish or oysters, but I also found it perfectly matched with a lemony risotto with spring peas and proscuitto! Michelle DeWyngaert             

Luneau-Papin 2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Vera Cruz

Vera Cruz is a new cuvée from Luneau-Papin, from 40 year-old vines on a terroir of schistes and gneiss "a deux micas" in Vallet, farmed with organic and biodynamic methods. A wine of terroir rather than fruit, even in the ripe 2018 vintage, the wine shows elegant aromas of pear, peach, grilled almond, stone and citrus. The palate is dense and very mineral, showing more flavor of earth than fruit, with a lovely finish of stone, minerals and white fruit, apricot and zesty lemon that coats the palate. Perfect now with fine oysters, grilled dorade, sole, cod and scallops with lemon. Or cellar - this wine should be very interesting in 5 to 15 years. Label inspired by Mondrian and the varied terroirs of Muscadet.

Luneau-Papin 2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Terre de Pierre

This fascinating wine is from a new parcel of 45 year-old vines, La Butte de la Roche, high on a dome of igneous rock with quartz stones and serpentine minerals overlooking the marshes of Goulaine. The young Pierre-Marie Luneau is in charge here and is doing great organic vineyard work, reclaiming this wonderful site with vines planted in 1974. The serpentine rock creates a very poor soil, giving wines that are normally somewhat austere and marked by intense minerality, enhanced by aging of 17 months on the lees. The 2018 is a superb wine showing ethereal aromas of stone, citrus and white fruits, with a dense stony palate showing subtle white fruits with hints of anise and mint. This will be delicious now with grilled fish, and should age beautifully for 15 to 20 years.  David Lillie