A (somewhat) sunny spring afternoon in Gevrey-Chambertin. (photo J.McIlwain)

Tension, Taste and Terroir at Trapet

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As much as essense of Burgundy is terroir expression (location, location, location!), a countering and not nearly as prevalent narrative is grower over vintage (and sometimes vineyard). With a grape as sensitive to site and farming decisions as Pinot Noir, this is especially salient. And as articulately as the soil speaks through what's in the glass, the vigneron is the steward who gets it there. And where some growers are auteurs directing with pomp and flash (perhaps more specifically extraction and new oak sheen), others find the most honest expression in conscientious organic farming and sensible, non-interventionist cellar work. Domaine Trapet is one such grower. Blessed with superlative holdings of old vines in Gevrey-Chambertin including a whopping 1.85 hectares in Chambertin, Jean-Louis Trapet makes Burgundy that displays pure fruit, frank earthiness, and superlative finesse. Viticulture is organic and biodynamic (certified in 2009), fermentations are with native yeast with some stem inclusion, use of new oak is discreet and adjusted to vintage and designation. The resulting wines veer toward energy rather than heft and display aromatic complexity and sophistication married to layered earth and fruit flavors and well-knit structure. The wines are honest rather than overtly polished, deeply satisfying, and soulful. And for lovers of classical Burgundy, these are essential additions to the table and cellar?contemplative, delicious, and inspiring in their purity. John McIlwain

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Trapet 2017 Marsannay Rouge

From the Grasses Têtes and Grand Poirier lieux-dits. 10-20% whole cluster fermentation. The 2017 Marsannay offers aromas of wild strawberry, Morello cherry, black tea, and cool herbs on the nose. The mid-weight palate is a touch brambly, with wild berry and spice notes vying with a distinct earthy character for attention. The finish is persistent and offers a burst of black fruit and an almost minty character at the end. This leans in the direction of freshness, rather than rusticity and should age wonderfully in the mid-term, say 4-6 years.

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $49.99

  • Organic
  • Biodynamic
  • Low Sulfur

Trapet 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin

Domaine Trapet is deeply committed to organic viticulture and makes some of my favorite expressions of Gevrey-Chambertin—just the right balance of deep earth funk and pure fruit. The 2017 is high-toned and pretty on the nose on opening with raspberry and wild cherry aromas with scents of oolong tea and a bit of game following. The palate is ripe and limber with lovely red and black fruit flavors framed by ripe tannins and savory soil notes. There’s fine balance and though this isn’t quite as reserved as many of the other Gevreys, there’s an honest sapid character beneath all the charm and this should be delicious with a few years in the cellar. 2017 is a vintage where the exuberance of the fruit can run away with things but Trapet has managed to maintain pinpoint poise and balance. Lovely juice. Buy a few; drink now with quail, duck breast, squab, or anything featuring mushrooms or age for a few years and enjoy with a cheese course or a veal chop with cèpes. This is a sensational villages and worth a look. John McIlwain

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $84.99

  • Organic
  • Biodynamic

Trapet 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Ostrea

From four limestone-rich old vine (planted in 1919!) parcels near the border of Brochon. Ostrea is so named due the the proliferation of fossilized oyster shells in the soils. Biodynamically farmed, fermented with indigenous yeasts, 30% whole cluster. The 2017 is effusive on the nose with dark cherry, black raspberry, game, and black tea aromas. The mid-weight and sappy palate is endowed with pretty ripe, berry fruit, with an undercurrent of tangy acidity and fine-grained tannins with a persistent and rising finish. This is a joy to drink now, though there is distinct, if subtle, structure that bodes well for midterm cellaring. This is a more exuberant expression of Gevrey, but there's plenty of meat on these bones even if this more svelte than brawny in character. John McIlwain

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $119.99

  • Organic
  • Biodynamic
  • Low Sulfur

Trapet 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Ostrea 1.5L

From four limestone-rich old vine (planted in 1919!) parcels near the border of Brochon. Ostrea is so named due the the proliferation of fossilized oyster shells in the soils. Biodynamically farmed, fermented with indigenous yeasts, 30% whole cluster. The 2017 is effusive on the nose with dark cherry, black raspberry, game, and black tea aromas. The mid-weight and sappy palate is endowed with pretty ripe, berry fruit, with an undercurrent of tangy acidity and fine-grained tannins with a persistent and rising finish. This is a joy to drink now, though there is distinct, if subtle, structure that bodes well for midterm cellaring. This is a more exuberant expression of Gevrey, but there's plenty of meat on these bones even if this more svelte than brawny in character. John McIlwain

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $249.99

  • Organic
  • Biodynamic

Trapet 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Capita

The 2017 "Capita" 1er cru is a blend of grapes from 4 sites Clos Prieur, Petite Chapelle, En Ergot, and Combottes. 60% whole cluster, 35% new oak. The robe is a dark ruby to the rim. The nose is floral and effusive offering an intriguing mélange of dark fruits, crushed violet, game, and pastille aromas. The palate is deep and savory  and shows a tangy mineral character, with ripe black raspberry fruit, framed by fine-grained, ripe tannins and driving energy on a long, rising. And while this is showing nascent complexity, there's still plenty coiled within. John McIlwain

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $199.99

  • Organic
  • Biodynamic