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Cornelissen, Frank 2011 Magma Rosso No. 9

Value is in the eye and pocket of the beholder, and some of us, present company included, probably spend more than a sensible amount of money on wine. I buy very few expensive bottles, but there are lots I’d love to have if I had more disposable income. Now, for the first time, comes a high-priced Italian wine that’s not Nebbiolo that I would absolutely purchase if I could. I’m more and more tempted as I write this, but there are some persuasive fiscal counter-arguments too… 

Putting aside this excessively personal digression: Magma #9 is a spectacular wine. Much reminds us of Burgundy, of the Rhône, of Piedmont in terms of the elegance, restrained power, and sheer class of the wine. In the end it’s pure Etna, with great minerality, black cherry, flowers, oriental spices, herbs, quinine, dusty tannin. The wine has a lovely Pinot color, and is very aromatic. I’d guess that 6-10 years in the cellar will render it profound. JW

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