Drinking Old Wine Many of our favorite wines have been old bottles. While the great majority of wines are made to be consumed within a couple of years of their production, the relatively few wines that are intended to age can offer absolutely magical tasting experiences.
We are pleased to offer older wines for
The Not-So-Simple Jacquère of Savoie: Domaine des Côtes Rousses and Blard & Fils It is so easy to put your nose into Jacquère from a recently opened bottle, or take a sip three seconds after you pull it from the fridge, and assume that the wine will be pleasant, but rather neutral for the entirety of its life. Lean and bracing, but not particularly complex. This isn't
2019-Freshness and Filigree from Florian Lauer 2019 is shaping up to be an extraordinary vintage in Germany, from both a quality and scarcity standpoint. The wines we've been fortunate enough to taste combine exquisite fruit, frank minerality and an airy, lifted character to the aromatics—what lovers of Riesling want. And Florian Lauer has deliv
Thierry Valette's Clos Puy Arnaud: Two Bottles, Two Soils in Castillon Clos Puy Arnaud is located near the town of Belvès-de-Castillon, which is perched along a large plateau of limestone - a geological formation similar to the neighboring long stretch of elevated limestone belonging to the St.-Emilion AOC. Thierry Valette purchased the estate in 1999 after
Spring and New Arrivals from Champagne After a long, dark, and anxious winter, spring is finally here! The days are longer, the tariffs have been suspended, and the air is sweet (though it's certainly hard to tell from behind our masks). And with spring we are finally seeing the arrival of a passel of new wines. And of the new arrivals,
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Featured Articles
Drinking Old Wine Many of our favorite wines have been old bottles. While the great majority of wines are made to be consumed within a couple of years of their production, the relatively few wines that are intended to age can offer absolutely magical tasting experiences.
We are pleased to offer older wines for
The Not-So-Simple Jacquère of Savoie: Domaine des Côtes Rousses and Blard & Fils It is so easy to put your nose into Jacquère from a recently opened bottle, or take a sip three seconds after you pull it from the fridge, and assume that the wine will be pleasant, but rather neutral for the entirety of its life. Lean and bracing, but not particularly complex. This isn't
2019-Freshness and Filigree from Florian Lauer 2019 is shaping up to be an extraordinary vintage in Germany, from both a quality and scarcity standpoint. The wines we've been fortunate enough to taste combine exquisite fruit, frank minerality and an airy, lifted character to the aromatics—what lovers of Riesling want. And Florian Lauer has deliv
Thierry Valette's Clos Puy Arnaud: Two Bottles, Two Soils in Castillon Clos Puy Arnaud is located near the town of Belvès-de-Castillon, which is perched along a large plateau of limestone - a geological formation similar to the neighboring long stretch of elevated limestone belonging to the St.-Emilion AOC. Thierry Valette purchased the estate in 1999 after
Spring and New Arrivals from Champagne After a long, dark, and anxious winter, spring is finally here! The days are longer, the tariffs have been suspended, and the air is sweet (though it's certainly hard to tell from behind our masks). And with spring we are finally seeing the arrival of a passel of new wines. And of the new arrivals,
Cellar at domaine Laurent Barth
Beat the Tariffs - French New Arrivals and Returning Favorites, Featuring Jane et Sylvain, Barth, Lambert, Rontets and Many, Many More!
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'Tis the season for new arrivals - you'll see a fantastic array of new wines and returning favorites over the next few months and we'll begin with France, before the October 18th tariffs go into effect. Realistically, we have many shipments that will beat the deadline, and our NY importer friends have good levels of current stock, but some French wines will see price increases in November - let's hope the two sides and the WTO can make a deal! (And really, didn't we play the same game with Boeing that the Europeans played with Airbus?) This email is filled with sensational wines and great values, we hope you take a moment to look through it, roughly organized from North to South. Happy hunting..
A few suggestions:
The elegant Alsatian wines from the little known but very talented Laurent Barth.
The wonderful values from Patrick Lambert in Chinon.
The superb Passetoutgrain and Bourgogne Rouge from Jane et Sylvain (and everything else.)
Who can pass up a Demi-Sec Crémant du Jura Rosé?
The beautiful Cahors "fruit-bomb" from Combel la Serre!
The delicious Provencal wines of Cécile and Philippe Bénézet of Domaine Turenne
A friendly Alsace Riesling from Laurent Barth, this wine is a blend of fruit from several different parcels, including a small amount from the granite Schlossberg vineyard. The residual sugar here is usually hovering around 2-3g, making this a pretty classic dry Riesling from the region. Ripe, orchard fruit on the nose, a touch of structure in the mouth (maybe from the Schlossberg granite), and a pleasant finish. It should be a nice accompaniment to fall-time meals. -EL
Always around 50% Pinot Auxerrois (fermented separately), with Muscat, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, and a touch of Riesling. The idea here is to make a wine that is easy to drink, says Laurent, and he nails it! There's a subtle touch of spice on the palate, with a crystalline minerality in the finish, thanks to the granite soils. Though dry, there is a roundness and ripeness to the wine, which seems typical of similar "edelzwicker" blends of white grapes in Alsace. This should pair nicely with salads, as an apéro, or with mildly spicy dishes. -EL
Mostly from the Grand Cru Schlossberg vineyard in Kintzheim, this is an impressive Riesling from granite terroir. Beautiful in 2016, with textbook mineral structure from the granite soils, and a convincingly dry finish for a wine with about 12g residual sugar. Honestly, looking over my notes, I was surprised to see that the RS was even above 2g, let alone more than 10! There is such a persistent minerality and acidity to the wine that the wine, though it has an overall broad and full mouthfeel, still finishes clean and dry. An exceptional Riesling that is just beginning to drink very nicely in it's early age. -EL
Christian Binner has been a big influence on a generation of young winemakers in Alsace, and started the Vins Pirouettes project to provide an avenue for some of these young winemakers to experiment and make wines in the Binner cellar, and with his help and guidance. The Eros is Pinot Gris, Riesling and Sylvaner in 2018, with some skin contact, which yields a deep amber-hued wine. Apricot skins and stewed apples on the nose, with medium tannins (for an orange wine), and a chalky, mineral finish. -EL
Fred Lallier is now in charge at Domaine Bregeon and is doing great work at this important estate - one of the leaders in the return to quality in Muscadet. Certified organic, the 2022 Muscadet is from average 40 year-old vines in Gabbro terroirs in and around Gorges - it shows distinctive aromas associated with this terroir - pear, stone, petrol, anise and mushroom, with lovely white fruits in this ripe vintage with hints of lemon confit and wet stone. The palate is round and ripe, framed in firm acidity and mineral flavors, with stone fruits, earth, almond, anise and citrus that continue in the long finish. This is a lovely Muscadet in a riper style that is quite delicious now and should open up nicely over the next five years. Please decant or open an hour in advance. David Lillie
100% Cabernet Franc from the Pépière 10-hectare "home" vineyard in Clisson, where the rocky, granite-rich soils yield top-tier Melon de Bourgogne; the black grapes are in a section with a gentle slope and southwestern exposure. As with the Côt, the Cabernet Franc is harvested by hand, destemmed and crushed, with only the free-run juice used for the wine. It is fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, followed by around five months of aging in stainless steel. The 2018 shows peppery Cab Franc aromas of ripe red currant and black raspberry, lush and earthy. The palate is ripe and round with bright acidity and deep red currant fruit with hints of licorice, mint, smoke and earth with a nice sappy finish. Serve with charcuterie, rilletes and rillons, pork and chicken dishes. Lovely wine! David Lillie
100% Cot (Malbec). Only three of Pépière's 43 certifed-organic hectares of vines are planted to black grapes: Côt and Cabernet Franc (known locally as Breton). They are in the 10-hectare "home" vineyard in Clisson, where the rocky, granite-rich soils yield top-tier Melon de Bourgogne; the black grapes are in a section with a gentle slope and southwestern exposure. The grapes are harvested by hand, destemmed and crushed, with only the free-run juice used for the wine. It is fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, followed by around five months of aging in stainless steel. The 2018 Cot shows lush blackberry aromas with earth and spice; the palate is bright and fresh with deep supple blackberry and red currant fruit that is lifted by bright acidity. The moderate alcohol (12%) contributes to making this a versatile and refreshing red to serve with charcuterie, roast chicken, pork dishes and mild cheeses.
2015 is a beautiful vintage for the superb Savennières of Domaine du Closel. La Jalousie shows subtle, complex aromas of citrus peel, pear, almond, stone , lime-flower and honeysuckle which follow through on the perfectly balanced palate. The fruit is lush and ripe but there is great acidity and minerality as well - the wine is elegant and very delicious in its youth, - serve with fish in sauce, scallops, monkfish, chicken in sauce and mild cheeses. Lovely wine! DL
We don't have Bernard Baudry's Chinon Rosé to offer for Thanksgiving, but this lovely wine from his neighbor Patrick Lambert is a delicious and worthy replacement. - This delightful Chinon Rosé comes from Patrick Lambert's 6 hectares of organic vines in Cravant, around the corner from his friend and mentor, Bernard Baudry. Hand harvested from 20-year-old Cabernet Franc vines on gravel and sandy clay soils over limestone. The 2018 shows lovely aromas of wild strawberry, raspberry, citrus and rose; the palate is ripe and pretty with raspberry, citrus and stone flavors with nice density and texture, a bit more weight and ripeness than the 2017, with juicy acids, berry flavors and minerals in the finish. This is drinking beautifully now and will open up nicely through the spring and summer and will keep well into 2020. This is a fabulous value and highly recommended. DL
"Gourmandise" is a beautiful "drink young" cuvée from Patrick Lambert, made from Cabernet Franc vines grown on sandy gravel soils near the Vienne. The wine shows a bright black/red color with lush high-toned aromas of crushed strawberry and black raspberry, with hints of citrus and pepper. The palate is supple and bright with luscious black raspberry and red currant fruit, quite lush and full-bodied in this superb vintage for the Loire but still with refreshing acidity. Serve this lovely wine quite cool with charcuterie and grilled chicken, pork or burgers, it's a perfect quaffing Cab Franc to drink over the next 2 - 3 years! David Lillie
Minerals for days is the first thing that comes to mind while enjoying this wine. Not only a great alternative to Sancerre, but distinctly of Reuilly, a nearby Loire appellation laden with Kimmeridgian limestone. The Domaine de Reuilly was founded in 1935 alongside an oak forest, which is still used by the Domaine for their barrels. Proprietor Denis Jamain has taken this estate to new levels of quality with organic and biodynamic farming. The nose is delicate and opens up nicely as it comes up in temperature showing notes of fresh, clean grass, white grapefruit, and peach blossoms. The palate is lean and linear displaying the beautiful stony texture imparted by the calcareous soil. This wine will be a perfect highlight to shellfish and crisp salads, and lovely balance to lighter proteins and creamy goat cheeses. Michelle DeWyngaert
Here's a rarity, a new organic grower in Chablis. Brothers Romain and Damien Bouchard whose father Pascal is a famed negotiant. In 2015 their father sold the winery and passed on his vines to the sons who've built a new winery and begun the process of organic certification. The wines are fermented with natural yeasts and aged in stainless steel and bottled with minimal sulfur. The 2016 Beauroy 1er cru from the left bank of the Serein river is bright, high-toned and redolent of white flowers and sea spray on the nose. The palate is fresh, vibrant and nervy with punchy flavors of lemon zest, apple peel, and chalk on a galloping finish. This has great tension between the pungent mineral notes and ripe orchard fruit with a compelling, cool savory herbal notes. The Bouchard brothers are vignerons to watch. John McIlwain
From .75 hectares of organically farmed vines dating from 1995 high on the hillside on the western end of the climat (per Jasper Morris). Fermented in wood with native yeasts without batonnage and bottled with minimal sulfur. The vibrant 2017 Mont de Milieu is perfumed , yellow-fruited, generous, and pretty on the nose. There's a dynamic interplay between the ripe citrus and stone fruit flavors and the snappy oyster shell saltiness on the brisk, energetic palate with a long, lingering succulent finish. Terrific now, but certainly a good candidate for mid-term aging. John McIlwain
From .57 hectares of organically farmed vines dating to 1992. The 2017 Vaudésir Grand Cru has an expressive nose redolent of lemon blossom, citrus peel, white peach skin and wet stone. The supple palate has good concentration and cut with the ripe stone fruit flavors framed by a sapid earthiness and a long, lifted, expansive finish. This has grand cru class and is a delicious Vaudésir. Decant now or cellar for 5-7 years and beyond. Highly recommended. John McIlwain
Jane and Sylvain have done it again! Another beautiful Passetoutgrain, in 2017 from 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Gamay, grown in and around Gevrey-Chambertin, organically farmed and quite delicious! The 2017 shows a deep black/red color and very perfumed aromas of black raspberry and strawberry liqueur with earth and violets. The palate is ripe and bright with deep morello cherry and blackberry, quite sapid and round. Really a refreshing and delicious wine, perfect for picnics and barbecues, served quite cool. This is a fantastic value and highly recommended.
Jane et Sylvain: A refreshingly unpretentious name for a small organic estate in Gevrey-Chambertin. Their Bourgogne Rouge is from 20 to 30 year-old vines in a parcel that has never been chemically treated and always tended organically. The 2017 Bourgogne Rouge shows a brilliant red/black color with elegant, floral, tart cherry, raspberry, citrus and violet aromas. The palate shows the ripeness of 2017 with chalky strawberry and cherry fruit, earthy and very long, finishing with refreshing citrus, mineral flavors and red fruits. Serve this lovely Pinot Noir quite cool over the next five years - it's a delicious wine and a great value!
From 45 to 60 year-old vines, certified organic, mostly in En Pallud (below 1er Cru les Corbeaux). The low yields and small berries of 2016 really show in this dense and well-structured Gevrey. The aromas are elegant and deep with chalky black raspberry and black cherry, the palate is dense and concentatrated with fabulous length of black fruits and minerals, Carafe many hours in advance if drinking now, best to cellar five years and drink until 2035+. This will be a superb mature Gevrey and is highly recommended.
The vines are in the lieu-dit "Queue de Hareng" below an old quarry at the top of the slope in Brochon, next to Fixin 1er Cru "la Perrière," on shallow red/brown soils of mountain silt and limestone pebbles over the limestone bedrock. Organic farming, wild-yeast fermentations with minimal SO2. The 2016 Jane et Sylvain Côte de Nuits-Villages is a bit denser than the previous vintages from this site - it's a superb and unusual Burgundy showing intense aromas of ripe strawberry and cherry with rose leaf, brown spice and herbal notes as well as dusty stone and mineral scents which are typical of this vineyard. With aeration the aromas become more pure and fruit-driven and the palate shows lovely black cherry, strawberry and red currant fruit, quite dense and ripe, with firm tannins. Decant 4 to 6 hours in advance if drinking now, or cellar for 3 to 5 years and drink till 2030. Highly recommended for those who enjoy some minerals in their Burgundy!
Jane et Sylvain have a superb, tiny parcel of Gevrey 1er Cru "Fonteny," high up in the southwest corner, separated from Grand Cru Ruchottes by a dirt track, certified organic. We have 36 btls of Fonteny for the vintage - given the structure of the "regular" Gevrey from Jane et Sylvain, the Fonteny will benefit from ten years in the cellar and should become a profound wine when mature. In January of 2014, I tasted the 2002 Fonteny in the cellar with Jane and Sylvain.Their eldest son was born in 2002, so they saved a bunch for him, but were generous enough to share one with my father and me. It was transcendental - what I refer to as my "religious experience" with red Burgundy, and possibly one of the most memorable wines I've ever tasted. Flowers, stones, dried fruit, the subtle touch of tannin...truly a blissful experience. Jane says the wine has "la finesse du Ruchottes," referring to the Grand Cru vineyard that is literally feet away from the edge of their vines. Eben Lillie
From south-facing vines situated on the right hill of Pommard, on the Beaune side, in a terroir of clay-marl. These 35 year-old vines grow in high elevation, about 330 meters above sea-level. The grapes are hand harvested and undergo a long fermentation in stainless steel tanks, punched-down and vatted for 18-25 days. The wine ages in a cold cellar on lees in barrels, 30% of which are new. The 2017 shows a deep red/garnet color and complex aromas of ripe strawberry, and black raspberry with earth and spice notes. The palate is round, earthy and nicely textured with deep black raspberry, plum and black cherry liqueur, ripe and round and balanced with earthy minerality. The finish is long and sappy, with firm acidity. This is soft enough to drink well young but will come together nicely with a few years in the cellar. Lovely wine! David Lillie
Jean-Francois Ryon comes from a family steeped in the methods of organic farming. He started selling his wines from the village of Vernantois, in the far southern reach of the Jura, in 1992. This sparkling is an evenly-split blend of Chardonnay and Poulsard that come from Ryon’s 2.7 hectares of vines. It carries with it a touch of residual sugar, which helps structure the flavors of subtle red fruits and orange rind. Also, the regionally specific blue marl soils give it a spark of smoky flint. Being slightly sweet, it is extremely versatile and would pair well with baked deserts or spicy/well-seasoned vegetarian or meat dishes. David Hatzopoulos
Like all of Jean-Francois Ryon’s wines, his 2017 Trousseau was made from his small holdings in the village of Vernantois in the southern limits of the Jura. It was fermented with indigenous yeasts and sees a minuscule amount of added sulfur. The nose is that of dried dark flowers, fresh soil, and forest fruit. There are red and black berries on the tongue, which are assertive and tart. Because of this dynamic of rustic aromas/flavors and mouthwatering structure, a bottle of this Trousseau would lend itself to a drier meal of roasted poultry or pork. As the pairing suggests, this is a perfect wine for the colder days of autumn and winter. David Hatzopoulos
This beautiful Pouilly-Fuissé is from old vines in the Clos on hard limestone with very thin silty clay topsoil. Certified organic farming, long slow fermentations with wild yeasts and aging in large oak barrels, none new.The 2017 shows aromas of ripe pear and apricot, stone, chamomile and lemon confit, quite elegant. The palate is primarily mineral, with firm acidity and subtle white fruits that continue in the long very mineral finish. Delicious now but will age gracefully for 8 to 10 years. Serve this racy Pouilly-Fuissé with an elegant white fish preparation, chicken with morels, mountain cheeses... David Lillie
Nicolas (Nico) Carmaran is a whimsical farmer/vigneron who produces fun and fascinating wines in the Aveyron, a small region in southern France. Mauvais Temps is 80% Fer Servadou and 20% Cabernet Franc from Granite terroir. Nico says he finds the 2018 to be a bit fuller than previous vintages, and I definitely agree, though it's still quite graceful and smooth on the palate. Spice and earth, with a long mineral finish. -EL
The Combel la Serre "Pur Fruit" is 100% Malbec from seven different sites around their home village of Cournou, which lies on the Causse, a limestone plateau in Cahors at 320m elevation. Planted on clay-limestone soils, the vines are certified organic and average 35 years old. The grapes are hand-harvested and crushed with 20% whole clusters; the juice ferments at cool temperatures with indigenous yeasts in cement tanks with a 10-day skin maceration. The wine is aged on its lees in cement through the winter and bottled in the spring. The 2018 is a vibrant fruit-bomb showing a deep red/black color with aromas of ripe blackberry liqueur with violet and citrus hints. The palate is supple and sappy with dense blackberry and black raspberry fruit, lifted by bright acidity - quite lush and ripe but at only 12.5% alcohol it's refreshing and balanced. The cool, sappy fruits continue in the bright finish. Perfect with a steak or stew or just gulped by itself - serve cool and enjoy! David Lillie
The Gramenon "Poignée de Raisins" is all Grenache from young vines grown on the hillsides and plateau of Gramenon in Montbrison. The terroir is a maritime sandstone/sand and shell soil. The grapes are partially de-stemmed, there is a 15-day maceration and fermentation with wild yeasts with a 6 month aging in vats. The 2018 vintage shows deep notes of plum, rose hip and cranberry on the nose, along with a more subtle savory side. The palate is a brighter medley of red fruit, which includes notes of ripe cherry, apple, and white flowers. A wine to be enjoyed within 3 years. JDC
Now under the hands of Denis Alary, a vigneron of a old, storied estate (this is the 11th generation), Domaine Alary is producing textured and lovely Southern Rhone wines. Founded in 1692 (under the reign of the Sun King), Domaine Alary lies in the commune of Cairanne, where Denis has a number of Cairanne terroirs. The mix of terroir is important in a cuvee like La Brunote - a blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre and 10% Carignan. The Grenache is harvested on the region’s “terroir garrigues” while the Mourvèdre and Carignan are harvested on a south-facing mountain slope made of clay-limestone soil. The wine is then fermented with natural yeasts for around 25 days. On the nose, the wine is a complex medley of lovely red fruits and spice: red currant, sour cherry, sweet pepper and plum. On the palate, the wine shows notes of pear, herbal tea, Black Krim tomatoes, ripe cherry and dried apricots. With soft tannins from the Mourvèdre, lovely acidity and depth, La Brunote is a wonderfully balanced and complex wine. JDC
Tucked away in a tiny plot of land in the Cotes du Tarn (within the Gaillac AOC), Stephane Lucas is committed to working with the local varietal Braucol. From a parcel laden with broken-down limestone soil, the Braucol sees longer maceration time before pressing. Aged in stainless steel, there is also no sulfur added in the winemaking. Stephane produces a delightful natural wine with a nose of brambles, cassis, lavender. The palate is light and soft, with notes of black raspberry, white tea, and red cherry. JDC
Domaine Turenne, northeast of Bandol in Provence, produces this lovely rosé from 80% Cinsault, 10% Grenache and 10% Syrah, certified organic. The terroir is a unique bed of limestone and sandstone debris with sand/clay stones called "Gavroches" which bring a pronounced minerality and good drainage to the vines. The grapes are harvested by hand, fermented with wild yeasts and the wine is bottled with minimal SO2. The 2018 "Camille" is a pretty, very pale pink/orange color with aromas of wild strawberry, raspberry, rose and citrus, with a hint of stone fruits as well. The palate is light and elegant with subtle berry fruits, a hint of citrus and stone, and has nice density and length. This is a light and lovely rosé for all year enjoyment, sipped by itself or with grilled fish, white meats, salade Niçoise and mild cheeses - and it's a fabulous value! David Lillie
Domaine Turenne produces beautiful wines in Provence through many years of organic farming, hand harvesting and wild yeast fermentations. The elegant rosé Cuvée Gravoches is made from 90% Mourvedre with 5% Grenache and 5% Cinsault, similar to the blend in nearby Bandol. The 2017 shows a lovely bight pink/orange color and aromas of ripe raspberry, blood orange, peach, rose petal and brown spice. The palate is supple and dense with mineral flavors underlying ripe berry liqueur and stone fruits - it's quite well-structured and very long, a young wine that will open nicely with aeration or with a few years of aging. A rosé of cuisine, serve with white meats, grilled pork with Provencal herbs, chicken in sauce, bouillabaisse, tagines and goat cheeses. David Lillie
(Was $13.99) Cécile and Philippe Bénézet produce lovely organic wines on soils of sandstone with clay and limestone pebbles ("gravoches") northeast of Bandol in Provence. The cuvée "Bastien" is made from old vines of Carignan with Mourvedre and Syrah, hand harvested, fermented with wild yeasts, semi-carbonic, with minimal addition of SO2. The 2017 "Bastien" shpws aromas of blackberry and black raspberry with pepper, earth and floral notes. The palate is nicely textured with mineral notes below black fruits, citrus, spice, licorice and earth. This is a delicious and versatile Provençal red that will accompany grilled meats, roast chicken, charcuterie and full-flavored cheeses. David Lillie
In the French Basque hills, enveloped by Spain, Peio Espil tends his family’s estate with impressive care. Peio, after careers in both Sauternes and Jurancon, returned to Irouleguy to work sustainably, and received complete organic certification in 2008. Here he strictly adheres to a Fukuoka-inspired way of organic farming, with biodiversity in the vineyards and no plowing, with the overall health of the soil being his number one concern. The 2015 Rouge is 55% Tannat, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 30% Cabernet Franc and it's a great vintage for this unique wine, being a bit rounder than usual and quite delicious for current drinking. While packing a punch of dark flavors of plummy fruit, cured meats, and green herbs, there is also a signature lifted elegance to the wine. This has been attributed to Peio’s commitment to vineyards of limestone, which is unique in a land known for iron-rich soils. On the table, this red would do well with Mediterranean lamb or pork dishes.
Under the helm of the fifth generation of the Marfisi family, Julie and Mathieu are making bold, complex and vibrant Corsican wines. That they are both so tied to their homeland and terroir is evident: Mathieu is President of the Patrimonio AOC (the AOC covers 400ha), and his father, Toussaint, has some of the oldest vines on the island. Clos Marfisi’s vines lie on a steep limestone slope rising out of the Mediterranean Sea, where large chunks of limestone cover the coastline. The family has never touched the land with herbicides nor pesticides, and they are moving toward organic certification. Gritole is 100% Niellucciu, with a deeply intense nose, reminiscent of great Southern Rhone wines. The palate features fresh acidity and light minerality, which show beautifully with notes of rose petals, black fruit, smoked meats, and cassis. Truly, Corsica at its best.
On the eastern coast of Corsica, closer to Algeria than France, Josée Vanucci and her husband Fabrice Couloumère are organically farming 45 hectares of farmland (18 of which are vines). Based on a soil of clay and alluvial from deposits of the Bravone River, sitting directly under the massif Castagniccia, the vines are around 25-35 years in age. The proximity to the Tyrrhenian Sea helps the vineyards retain moisture during island droughts. Natural yeast fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. The result is a Vermentino with great depth: lively acidity from a Meyer lemon-tang, with notes of quince, leading to a mineral-salt finish. JDC
Filaine is one of our favorite Champagne houses. And the singular Fabrice Gass is one of our favorite Champagne characters. His wines are made up of Pinot Noir/Chardonnay/Pinot Meunier from the south-facing village of Damery in the Vallée de la Marne. The wines are made in the manner of 100 years ago. Fabrice farms without chemicals, ferments in wood, and due to the age of his barrels, avoids malolactic fermentation. This disgorgement is based on the 2016 vintage and balances nicely the classic richness of Damery with undertones of minerality. Aromatically the wines offer up aromas of baked apple, spices, and soil notes. On the palate flavors of ripe red fruit and a pervasive sense of chalkiness vie with with a creamy texture on the broad, rich finish. This is a perfect wine for the holiday table with its balance of generous fruit and earthy structure. John McIlwain
A new grower for the Chambers Street Champagne section, Guiborat is helmed by Richard Fouquet, who grew up outside Paris and returned to his family's vines as a young man. The 100% Chardonnay 'Prisme' is comprised of grapes from 3 parcels in Cramant and Chouilly, farmed organically, and vinified in tank and neutral barrel, and spend 44 months sur latte, and bottled with 4.5g dosage. Based on the 2013 vintage, the wine has a pale greenish yellow robe, soft mousse, and fine bead. The nose offers aromas of wet stone, green apple, orange oil, and shortbread. The palate is rich, lemony, racy, and deeply chalky, with incisive mineral cut and a bright, briny, mouthwatering finish that lingers. John McIlwain
