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The Ignios Orígenes wines are striking and intensely memorable expressions of the terroir and indigenous grapes of Tenerife. These wines are smoky, mineral, and salty - seemingly capable of transporting the taster to the volcanic island from which they come. For me, these are some of the most exciting wines from the Canary Islands, and among the best examples of what winemakers there are capable of.
They are also fascinatingly expressive of vintage. Compared to the 2016s, the '17 vintage clearly shows the dry heat of the year. Northern Tenerife received less than half the typical amount of rain (only about 250mm), and endured a massive heat wave in March. Borja harvested early, and the grapes were perfectly healthy. The resulting wines are particularly intense, even for Ignios: exuberantly aromatic, bright and pure.
Borja Pérez González, a native of La Guancha in Tenerife, organically farms the indigenous varieties Listán Negro, Baboso Negro, Vijariego Negro, and Marmajuelo on his family’s farm in the Ycoden-Daute-Isora DO. He purchased the farm and began the Ignios Orígenes project in 2011, and has been steadily improving the vineyards and his agricultural practices since. As is often the case on the Canary Islands, Borja Perez’s vines are own-rooted (rather than grafted on American rootstock), farmed entirely by hand, and untouched by chemical herbicides, pesticides or fertilizers. In the cellar, Borja employs sulfur only at bottling and uses very little.
Today we are excited to offer the full line of 2017 wines in both 750ml and 1.5L bottles. We are also lucky to have a small amount of the 2016 Baboso Negro, a favorite from the last vintage. I think that it would be fascinating to drink this wine next to the 2017: the ’16 vintage was far less extreme than 2017 and the 2016 Baboso is more restrained. All of these wines are very gastronomically friendly, great with fully flavored fare of all sorts and any and all grilled foods.
In addition, we want to highlight the 2017 Artifice wines. These are made in the same method as Borja Pérez‘s other wines, but from purchased grapes (where the Ignios bottlings are entirely from estate fruit). This vintage of the Artifice is the best I’ve experienced - these are true Canary Islands wines, showing the classic notes of sea salt and volcanic ash and earth.
-Ben Fletcher
Ignios Orígenes 2017 Tenerife Ycoden Daute Isora Baboso Negro
Borja Perez's Baboso Negro comes from 22-year-old vines planted on clay and loam soils at 450m altitude. Fully destemmed, the grapes are fermented in concrete tanks for 18 days and then aged for 11 months in 600L French oak barrels. The 2017 is a BIG wine...not in alcohol, but in flavor and intensity. Sweet purple fruit on the nose, with significant grip and weight. Borja was breaking in a new barrel, so about 10-20% of the wine was in new oak, which lends even more succulent sweetness and baking spice to the nose. This should age beautifully. Though we often recommend decanting, I believe it's better to let this one open up in your glass slowly instead of accelerating the aeration in a decanter. -EL
Ignios Orígenes 2017 Tenerife Ycoden Daute Isora Listán Negro 1.5 L
Listán Negro is the most widely planted grape variety in the Canary Islands, and a relative of Listán Prieto and Mission. Borja Perez's Listán Negro comes from a small half-hectare vineyard adjacent to a coastal banana plantation. The soils here are rich in iron, and the mineral core of this wine shows a sort of ferrous quality in tension with the ashy or smoky funk emblematic of the volcanic Canary Islands. Bright acidity, tart red fruit, and spice complete the intense, exuberant palate. On the nose, burned Mediterranean herbs, salty sea air, red flowers and tart fruit dominate. If drinking now, open well in advance or decant for the best experience. This is the sort of lighter bodied red that refreshes the palate and complements a heavy meal like Thanksgiving so well, and it has the aromatic and acidic character to hold its own against all of the rich bounty on fall and winter tables. And who doesn't love to celebrate with a magnum? Ben Fletcher
Ignios Orígenes 2017 Tenerife Ycoden Daute Isora Listán Negro
Listán Negro is the most widely planted grape variety in the Canary Islands, and a relative of Listán Prieto and Mission. Borja Perez's Listán Negro comes from a small half-hectare vineyard adjacent to a coastal banana plantation. The soils here are rich in iron, and the mineral core of this wine shows a sort of ferrous quality in tension with the ashy or smoky funk emblematic of the volcanic Canary Islands. Bright acidity, tart red fruit, and spice complete the intense, exuberant palate. On the nose, burned Mediterranean herbs, salty sea air, red flowers and tart fruit dominate. If drinking now, open well in advance or decant for the best experience. This is the sort of lighter bodied red that refreshes the palate and complements a heavy meal like Thanksgiving so well, and it has the aromatic and acidic character to hold its own against all of the rich bounty on fall and winter tables. Ben Fletcher
Ignios Orígenes 2017 Tenerife Ycoden Daute Isora Marmajuelo 1.5 L
Made from 100% Marmajuelo (one of only two grapes that cannot be traced to any varieties outside of the Canaries), this is a deeply intriguing Canary white that should not be missed! Perhaps a bit lighter on its feet than previous vintages, the 2017 is refreshing, and balanced, with lovely melon and white stone fruit on the palate, subtle oxidative notes, and a predictably mineral finish (we are talking Volcanic soils here!). -EL
Ignios Orígenes 2017 Tenerife Ycoden Daute Isora Marmajuelo
Made from 100% Marmajuelo (one of only two grapes that cannot be traced to any varieties outside of the Canaries), this is a deeply intriguing Canary white that should not be missed! Perhaps a bit lighter on its feet than previous vintages, the 2017 is refreshing and balanced, with lovely melon and white stone fruit on the palate, subtle oxidative notes, and a predictably mineral finish (we are talking Volcanic soils here!). -EL
Ignios Orígenes 2017 Tenerife Ycoden Daute Isora Vijariego Negro 1.5 L
This special red comes from a revived vineyard at 780m altitude in the shadow of Mount Teide on Tenerife, planted to the distinctive local Canary Island variety Vijariego Negro (better known to Spanish wine lovers as Sumoll). Truly a treat on the nose and the palate, with notes of spicy red and black berries, savory herbs, and a dense underpinning of mineral-infused volcanic earth. In a way, the experience of the 2017 Vijariego is much like crossing the Ignios Listan Negro with a fine red Burgundy. A really elegant, albeit young, wine. Should age beautifully, given its tannic structure and mineral depth. Years ago, Borja told our colleague Ariana Rolich that this vineyard would soon produce his top wine. Though the Baboso is a pretty unforgettable red, this bottling of Vijariego is beginning to prove his words true! -EL
Ignios Orígenes 2017 Tenerife Ycoden Daute Isora Vijariego Negro
This special red comes from a revived vineyard at 780m altitude in the shadow of Mount Teide on Tenerife, planted to the distinctive local Canary Island variety Vijariego Negro (better known to Spanish wine lovers as Sumoll). Truly a treat on the nose and the palate, with notes of spicy red and black berries, savory herbs, and a dense underpinning of mineral-infused volcanic earth. In a way, the experience of the 2017 Vijariego is much like crossing the Ignios Listán Negro with a fine red Burgundy. A really elegant, albeit young, wine. Should age beautifully, given its tannic structure and mineral depth. Years ago, Borja told our colleague Ariana Rolich that this vineyard would soon produce his top wine. Though the Baboso is a pretty unforgettable red, this bottling of Vijariego is beginning to prove his words true! -EL
Ignios Orígenes 2016 Tenerife Ycoden Daute Isora Baboso Negro
Borja Perez's Baboso Negro comes from 22-year-old vines planted on clay and loam soils at 450m altitude. Fully destemmed, the grapes are fermented in concrete tanks for 18 days and then aged for 11 months in 600L French oak barrels. Baboso Negro's profile is lean and aromatically intense, shown here with spice, salt, and smoke notes alongside raspberry, blackberry and ripe citrus. With the additional year in bottle stateside, this should be a real pleasure to open now. -BF
Borja Perez Viticultores 2017 Tenerife Artifice Tinto
The Artifice Tinto is delicious in 2017! All Listán Negro, with great acidity and balance. Blood orange and baking spice on the nose, medium weight on the palate, and refreshingly mineral on the finish. Borja has been getting into whole cluster fermentation, and used about 30% whole cluster with this vintage. Even though the tannins of the stems are intense, he really likes the fruit profile, and we have to say, we love it too! -EL
Borja Perez Viticultores 2017 Tenerife Artifice Blanco
100% Listán Blanco from multiple parcels in Ycoden Daute Isora (northern Tenerife). Fermented separately, the wine is then aged for 8 months - a portion of the wine in concrete tanks on the lees and the other in 500 liter barrels - before being blended and bottled with minimal addition of sulfur. This iteration of the Artifice Blanco sees some skin contact, which adds subtle structure. Tropical aromatics blend with golden fruit and a touch of nuttiness. Really a step up for the Artifice label from Borja. No longer simple "intro to Canary Island wines," these are top quality offerings that get better each year, as Borja gains more experience and familiarity with the vineyards. -EL
Borja Perez Viticultores 2017 Tenerife Artifice Vidueno
Vidueño is a blend of local white grapes Marmajuelo, Listán Blanco, Albillo, Gual, and Foraster, from multiple parcels. Vinified in 500 liter French oak barrels and aged for about a year in large foudre, then bottled and aged an additional 8 months before release. Worthy of a carafe, this 2017 is a bit reductive on the nose, but this blows off to reveal curry spice, coriander and burnt orange. It's really a fascinating white that will surely benefit from short term aging. -EL