Pierre Yves Colin-Morey & Bernard Moreau 2017s 

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For years now, we have been fortunate to be able to offer the excellent Burgundies of Pierre Yves Colin-Morey, whose wines stand astride the confluence of mineral precision, opulence, and elegance. This shouldn’t come as news to anyone who loves white Burgundy, but Pierre Yves Colin-Morey has risen to the top rank of the region’s producers. That they have done so based on the less-than-fashionable appellation of St. Aubin, is in some ways the more notable accomplishment. Considered a rising star over the last decade (though he worked at his family’s Domaine Marc Colin until 2005), Colin-Morey’s wines have achieved must-buy status among Burgundy lovers. They supplement their estate-grown fruit with top-flight purchased grapes, making them something of a hybrid negociant. The winemaking is hands-off and deliberative, producing wines which combine beautiful fruit purity with vivid terroir delineation. Any wines considered below their standards are sold off.

The grapes are pressed slowly under high pressure into barrels where fermentations are started with native yeasts. They undergo a long elevage in 350-liter demi-muid rather than the typical 228-liter barrel, moderating the influence of wood on the wine and preserving the aromatic purity of the fruit. There is no lees stirring, and the wines are bottled unfiltered. Additionally, Colin-Morey has been proactive in the prevention of premature oxidation, utilizing larger diameter corks and wax capsules. These are wines to cellar; while a bit reductive in their youth, they blossom with age to reveal great finesse, concentration, and precision. 

In addition, we have a smattering of whites and a red from the masterful Bernard Moreau in Chassagne, whose wines offer supple ripe fruit, great site specificity, and impeccable poise and balance. The wines age effortlessly and are a benchmark for the village.

After the past few vintages, where the yields were down precipitously, 2017 offered a bit of breathing room with some volume and beautifully nervy, precise, and harmonious whites. With the ripe, solar vintages that follow, this is a year for those who love classically styled white Burgundy to to stock up. Happy hunting!  John McIlwain

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