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In Meursault, a village positively overflowing with excellent growers, Domiane Pierre Morey somehow manages to remain a hidden gem. And while Coche, Lafon, and Roulot manage to command the lion's share of attention, Pierre and his talented daughter Anne seem to avoid the limelight. Founded in 1971—though the Moreys are said to have arrived in the village in 1793—Domaine Pierre Morey was begun with modest parcels of vines from father Auguste as well as métayage contracts from the Lafon family. Furthermore, Pierre was the régisseur for Domaine Leflaive for 20 years from 1988 to 2008. During this period, he converted both Domaine Leflaive and his own domaine to organics and then biodynamics. The wines are quiet masterpieces of terroir delineation and fruit purity, honestly made without flash or artifice. From the Bourgogne to the Bâtard, each bottling is a finely honed expression of place. In 2016 this is amplified by the soaring aromatics and vibrancy of the vintage. Happy hunting! John McIlwain
Tessons is one of the great "deuxième" crus (as coined by Clive Coates) of Meursault. The biodynamically-farmed vines date from 1975. The 2016 is more effusive than the village Meursault and displays greater florality to the nose than the Bourgogne with aromas of linden blossoms, Meyer lemon peel, and a dusty bit of chalk. The mid-weight palate is layered with concentrated orchard fruits, citrus peel, and a zesty, pungent sense of stoniness giving way to a long, articulate, rising finish. The after-aromas are fresh and spring-like. This is a lovely Tessons and should really shine in 5-7 years and beyond. Pierre Morey has been on a roll the last few years with Anne Morey deftly handling the vagaries of each year; and every vintage Tessons seems like a sure bet. John McIlwain (wine arrives 1/11)
From 48-year-old biodynamically-farmed vines from the lieu-dit Les Pétures. The grapes are destemmed and fermented with native yeasts. The 2016 has a dark ruby robe. A mélange of red and black fruits, sous-bois, and freshly-turned earth on the nose with a faint hint of spice. The mid-weight and supple palate offers sour cherry, pomegranate, and game flavors, underlain with a deeply mineral core and a long mouthwatering, moderately tannic, expansive finish. This is beautiful Santenots and should age effortlessly as the elements integrate. Every year this is one of my favorite Santenots and a sure bet for cellaring. John McIlwain
From two parcels of biodynamically-farmed vines in Meursault dating from 1957. An Aligoté of startling intensity and freshness. Stone and lemon flavors are given drive and buoyancy by a punchy minerality. This is an especially satisfying Aligoté, balancing old-vine depth and precision with bright aromatics. John McIlwain (wines arrive 1/11)
From multiple parcels in limestone clay soils (Les Millerands, En Monatine, Les Herbeux, Les Malpoiriers, per the importer). Biodynamically farmed and fermented with indigenous yeasts. There's a bit of reduction on opening—a splash decant helps it blow off, revealing a perfumed nose with aromas of honeysuckle, lemon blossom, citrus peel, ripe pear, and spice. The palate is bright and racy with notes of lemon curd, green apple, and wet stone. There’s a fine bit of the electricity, vibrancy, and precision of the 2016 vintage present and plenty of charm to this snappy Bourgogne. John McIlwain
From biodynamically-farmed vines averaging 33 years in age, in 3 parcels across Meursault. Fermented with native yeasts, aged in barrel, 20% new oak. Always a benchmark expression of Meursault, sourced from the lieux-dits Les Forges, Les Pellans, and Les Chaumes (per Becky Wasserman). It balances floral and wet stone aromas with overt minerality and orchard fruit flavors to give a beautiful overview of village character. 2016 delivers this along with aromas of lemon blossom, acacia, and discreet wood on the nose. The palate is racy and lithe, with a salty minerality and rainwater freshness enrobed by ripe stone fruit and citrus flavors on a long, expansive finish. John McIlwain