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Dönnhoff 2011 Nahe Dellchen Riesling Grosses Gewächs
Dellchen is a steep site in Norheim, downstream for the Niederhausen/Oberhausen center where Dönnhoff resides. The soil is a classic Nahe mixture of slate toward the bottom of the site and volcanic elements out toward the sides. The nose is impressively chiseled, especially within the context of the fairly fruity vintage, with fresh, lean and precise mineral tones. I was very excited when tasting this one — the body is just what great German Trocken should be — lighter than comparable wines from Austria or Alsace but with no lack of fruit or depth. Green apple, lemon, strawberry, honeydew melon, and all followed by a stony rush on the penetrating finish. Simply terrific dry Dönnhoff! -jfr
Dönnhoff 2011 Nahe Felsenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs
The ground is 100% volcanic soil here, and the result is a spicier GG than the slatier Dellchen. Salty, spicy, even a bit fiery in a way. Invigorating! The fruit here tends toward more citrus flavors, rather than the berries and melons of the estates other GGs, but there is a distinct rus of blood orange and grapefruit on the slaine-driven finish. Felsenberg is, like Hermannshöhle, the only site where Dönnhoff crafts both excellent dry and sweet wines. -jfr
Dönnhoff 2011 Nahe Hermannshöhle Riesling Grosses Gewächs
Ferments in stainless steel then matures in stück on the fine lees for two months, then a month back in steel before bottling. Helmutt Dönnhoff told me that his idea of Riesling is like "Mountain Spring Water — Clarity is the most important thing." This has the most complex aromatics of the three GGs. Intensely mineral with some CO2 still showing, along with light, white crisp stony notes. Very poised and the longest and most colorful of the three GGs. -jfr
Dönnhoff 2012 Nahe Hermannshöhle Riesling Grosses Gewächs
As in 2011, the Hermannshöhle GG is again terrific, but it's really aromatically closed as of June 2013. This is another Dönnhoff GG that's all structure and minerality at this point with the fruit playing second fiddle. The raw material is stunning, and this will probably age much better than any of the estate's previous dry wines. It's long, it's pure, it's elegant, and what its missing in the wild, kaleidoscopic fruit of 2011, it more than makes up for in detail, finesse and structure. -jfr
Karthäuserhof 2010 Ruwer Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg BA 375
Karthäuserhof is a treasure in the Ruwer valley; a monastery run for nearly 500 years by Carthusian (hence the name) monks starting in the early 1300s, it was secularized in 1803 and purchased by a French general in 1811. Since then it's been passed down family lines for seven generations with its 19-hectare monopol, the Eitelsbacher Karthäsuserhofberg. Soils on the 'berg are mostly Devonian blue slate with iron oxide striations at varied levels of erosion, and some veins of clay in the soil below to help with water retention. The dense forests in the region bring both shelter from the winds on the slope, and also a variety of fauna and insects to the vineyard. In the bottles I've been able to try, I always find something mineral and green in these wines. Not green as in young, but green, like a freshly rain-soaked forest. In 2010 there were lower yields all around Germany, and this was also true in the Ruwer. Karthäuserhof had close to a 50% loss in yields, but was still able to produce a Beerenauslese, due to the clean, beautiful botrytis and sustained acidity from the cooling weather around harvest time. These bottles came to us from a private cellar, and we would love to hear any reports about how this is tasting. I'm assuming it's probably still very young!! Cari Bernard
Lauer, Peter 1991 Saar Riesling Sekt Brut Reserve
Florian Lauer and his importer keep blessing us with more and more bottles of recently-disgorged vintage Sekt and we're in love with the 1991. Like other releases, it still clearly tastes like Lauer and the Kupp but this strikes us as perhaps the most complex yet. Earthy, stony, mossy aromatics with a good dose of fruit on the palate; dried apricots, sponti flavors, really killer acid and of course, slate, slate, slate. Florian says it's fruitier than the '93; we say it's fantastic! -jfr
Lauer, Peter 2014 Saar Riesling Ayler Kupp GG
Sourced from Florian's finest vines from the legendary Ayler Kupp vinyard, this GG never disappoints, but the 2014 vintage seems to be particularly promising. - David Salinas
Prüm, J.J. 2001 Mosel Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese
This is Auslese to bury deep in the cellar. The perfect gift for the Riesling lover that is looking for a wine that will be compelling either in 2011 or 2031. If enjoying now, be sure to give it a lengthy decant, as I found this really hit its stride after about 4 hours open. Not heavy but expansive, mouth-filling and fresh with perfectly balanced acid. Notes of pear, sweet lime, succulent yellow and white peach, this is just so delicious. Prum at its finest, and one of the most thrilling bottles I've recently tasted. -jfr
Nikolaihof 1997 Wachau Riesling Vinothek
17 years of aging in a large cask, in the ancient Nikolaihof cellars have not been in vain for this world-class Riesling Vinothek. At a recent tasting, this wine was in an absolutely prisitne drinking window. Radiantly golden yellow in color, the nose is discrete put beautifully detailed with floral and stone fruit notes that linger in the mind. The palate is weighty, yet perfectly poised, with a endless stream of minerality that carries notes of white peaches, quince, and cardamom. Although certainly cellar-worthy, this Riesling is simply shinning!
- David Salinas
Prager 2005 Wachau Riesling Ried Klaus 'Lieblich'
A Smaragd in everything but name, this is Prager at its most ornate and heady -- going into the stylistic realm of some of his neighbors, especially FX Pichler or Hirtzberger. Fear not though, as rather than translate all that ripeness into an unwieldy amount of alcohol, Toni Bodenstein opted to stop fermentation before it was totally complete, leading to a perfectly balanced wine they would call "Feinherb" across the border in Germany. Bodenstein likens it to the 1990 Klaus, which is no faint praise, to be sure. Built to last in the cellar for many, many years. -jfr Totally in agreement with John, this 'lieblich' bottling is truly unique and is aging well. Opened last month (12/2018) with friends and Chinese food, it did not disappoint. Although darker in color than expected, the wine is fascinatingly opulent, layered, balanced, and has settled in nicely. Highly recommended. Cari Bernard