Les Grézeaux

New Arrivals from the Loire: 2016 Baudry "les Grézeaux;" 2014 Luneau-Papin "L d'Or;" Best Value Muscadets and More!

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We're pleased to announce the arrival of the 2016 Domaine Baudry Chinon "Les Grézeaux" - it's always one of our favorite Loire reds and it's particularly superb in 2016. Due to the gravelly soil - unusual for Chinon - this wine tends to drink well young, especially in a ripe vintage such as 2015. In vintages such as 1989, 2002 and 2010, the wine ages beautifully as well, becoming complex and velvety with twenty and more years in the cellar. During our recent visits to the Baudrys there has been a lot of discussion about which vintage is the best among 2014, 2015 and 2016. 2014 - vibrant and perfectly balanced (my favorite); 2015 - riper, with gorgeous fruit, a bit softer; 2016 - dense, well-structured and fresh with firm acidity (Bernard's favorite).  Here is the Baudry's assessment of 2016:

"A Challenge - One single cold and lethal night was enough to kill a great amount of buds in the vines on April 27th, 2016.  Frost was intense (-4 degrees C, 24 F) in the valley and on the lower slopes, the damage was up to 50% of the expected crop. The growing season had thus started in the worst possible way, and many of our fellow winemakers were in very precarious situations. Spring did not help, with heavy amounts of rain resulting in an explosion of mildew that lasted until the beginning of July. Later, the summer really took over, with very little rain (only 15 mm, or 0.51 fl. oz.) in July and August and a lot of sun. The grapes grew under excellent conditions, and were very healthy. September was a perfect month, with welcomed rain in the middle of the month helping the vines and bunches to finish the ripening.  We started harvesting on October 10th under wonderful conditions. 2016 ends up being a surprising vintage, with amazing quality in the wines, thanks to a beautiful late growing season. The wines are appealing, with primary aromas of raspberry, red fruit and spices.  All our cuvées have a ripe character, but also show astonishing freshness and fruitiness: they remind us of the beautiful 2002 vintage. Alas, the crop was low overall, and most cuvées are available in very reduced quantity."

Soil in Les Grézeaux

"Les Grézeaux" is at the bottom of the slope in Sonnay on a plateau of gravel with sandy clay soils above limestone that slopes gently down towards the Vienne, the vines are 60 to 70 years old. The wine is aged in five to ten year-old barrels with no added SO2, with a tiny amount added prior to bottling. Tasted from barrel in January of 2017 and 2018, the wine showed beautifully with very floral black fruit aromas and lovely density on the palate with black raspberry, spice and earth, firm and balanced but not overly tannic, with lush fruit lingering in the very long finish. It's a beautiful wine but we have about one-third of the normal allocation, so don't delay...

We'd like to remind lovers of Loire reds that the sensational 2014 Bourgueils from Domaine de la Chevalerie are in stock - this over-achieving Biodynamic estate produced superb wines in 2014 that are absolutely delicious, possessing vibrant, lush fruit with beautiful expression of terroir in each cuvée. They are a delight to drink young and will cellar beautifully for ten to 25 years - the Busardière in particular will be a brilliant mature wine.

2014 was also a superb vintage for Muscadet, and we're very happy to have received a special shipment of the 2014 Luneau-Papin "L" d'Or. This great Muscadet is from 45 year-old Melon de Bourgogne vines on a parcel of  "Granite a deux micas" in Vallet on a south-facing slope. The 1976  "L" is one of the legendary Muscadets - it received six years of aging on the lees, and was drinking beautifully when we last tasted it in 2008. 2014 is another great vintage for this wine, and although it did not receive extended sur-lie aging, it's a wine of superb density and elegance with flavors of mineral salts and stone dominating the ripe pear and citrus fruits. A breathtaking Muscadet to drink now with oysters and grilled fish, it will go through a marvelous evolution over the next twenty-five years. About ten cases are available.

While we're on the subject of great Muscadet, returning this week is the beautiful 2017 Domaine de la Bregeonnette from Stéphane Orieux. This was our favorite value over the past summer - a superb Muscadet from organic farming, (since 1967!) from granite and schist soils that shows elegant white fruits and scintillating mineral flavors with surprising depth and length - at $12.99 it's worth stocking up! And just arrived in NY is Jo Landron's scintillating 2017 Domaine Louvetrie "Les Houx" (formerly labeled "Hermine D'Or"), from a parcel of 20 to 50 year-old vines on shallow sandy clay soils, rich with silica, quartz and iron, over a bedrock of gneiss and clay - a great terroir for Muscadet that always gives a dense, complex wine which drinks beautifully young and benefits from aging for 5 to 8 years. It's a great value at $14.99....

 

Jo Landron with Biodynamic Dirt!
Stephane Orieux

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another great recent arrival is the 2016 Domaine aux Moines "Savennières-Roche aux Moines," perhaps the finest wine produced at this historic estate.  Tessa Laroche is doing a superb job, having begun organic conversion in 2009, with the wines showing increased density and expression of this great vineyard site and the shist terroir. The wine is highly recommended, both for curret drinking or cellaring for fifteen to twenty years or more.

As you may have noticed we love natural wines from Touraine and we've just received some of our favorites from the Puzelat brothers, Hervé Villemade and Pierre-Olivier Bonhomme, attached herein.... We have to mention the delicious Pinot Noir/Gamay "Les Ardilles" from Hervé Villemade - any lover of natural wines will enjoy this unique expression of Pinot from the clay and silex soils of Cheverny. Warning - low or no SO2, so it's best to consume it on the day opened, which will not be difficult...! And yes, we found more Olga Raffault Rosé in the warehouse - it's getting better and better....  All Wines arrive by Wedesday , 10/31

Baudry 2016 Chinon Les Grézeaux

"Les Grézeaux" is at the bottom of the slope in Sonnay on a plateau of gravel with sandy clay soils above limestone that slopes gently down towards the Vienne, the vines are 60 to 70 years old. The wine is aged in five to ten year-old barrels with no added SO2, with a tiny amount added prior to bottling. Tasted from barrel in January of 2017 and 2018, the wine showed beautifully with very floral black fruit aromas and lovely density on the palate with black raspberry, spice and earth, firm and balanced but not overly tannic, with lush fruit lingering in the very long finish. This is a bit firmer and should cellar better than the more forward 2015 -  it's a beautiful wine but we have about one-third of the normal allocation, so don't delay...

  • red
  • 19 in stock
  • $26.99

  • Organic
  • Low Sulfur

Luneau-Papin 2014 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Le "L" d'Or Granit

The superb Luneau-Papin "L d'Or" is from 45 year-old Melon de Bourgogne vines on a parcel of "Granite a deux micas" in Vallet on a south-facing slope. The wine shows a pale gold color and aromas of pear, green apple, almond, lemon confit, lime-flower and wet stone. The palate is dense and crystalline with saline acidity underlying flavors of dried pear, flint and citrus zest with hints of melon and almond. The finish is long with silky pear and citrus fruit and lingering saline acidity. A breathtaking Muscadet to drink now with oysters, grilled lobster, broiled fish, roast chicken and goat cheeses, it will go through a marvelous evolution over the next twenty-five years and accompany fish in sauce, chicken with morels and older goat cheese. About ten cases are available.


  • white
  • 32 in stock
  • $20.99

  • Organic

Bregeonnette (Stéphane Orieux) 2017 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie

Stéphane Orieux's father Joseph converted the estate to organic agriculture back in 1967, and Stéphane has continued (now certified by Ecocert) the great vineyard work of his father. The grapes are hand-harvested, fermentations are with wild yeasts and minimal sulfur is used. The 2017 Bregeonnette is from vines on both schist and granite soils and is a beautiful example of a young, vibrant Muscadet from organic farming.  The aromas are classic Muscadet: pear, green apple, citrus, fresh herbs and wet stone with floral hints. The palate is refreshing with subtle white fruits and citrus with hints of mineral and almond, with firm citrusy acids in the finish. This is a delicious and versatile Muscadet to serve with shellfish and white fish such as cod, haddock and sole and it's a nice aperitif as well.  And it's a crowd-pleasing dry white with enough depth to accompany your Thanksgiving! David Lillie

  • white
  • 38 in stock
  • $12.99

  • Organic
  • Low Sulfur

Louvetrie (Jo Landron) 2017 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Les Houx

 Jo Landron's Domaine Louvetrie "Les Houx" (formerly labeled "Hermine D'Or") is from a great parcel of 20 to 50 year-old vines on shallow sandy clay soils, rich with silica, quartz and iron, over a bedrock of gneiss and clay - a great terroir for Muscadet that always gives a dense, complex wine which benefits from medium-term aging. The 2017 is a great example and a sensational value. Lovely pale bronze color. A bit closed when first opened, then showing aromas of ripe pear, apple, lemon oil, a field in the sun, a hint of anise. The palate is dense with white fruits, stone, almond, iodine and citrus with perfect bracing acidity. Rather full-bodied for a Muscadet, this will accompany crab, lobster and monkfish as well as chicken, pork, Asian foods and goat cheeses. Or hold for a few years and serve with full-flavored fish dishes. Bravo, Jo Landron!

  • white
  • 35 in stock
  • $14.99

  • Organic
  • Biodynamic
  • Low Sulfur

Domaine Aux Moines 2016 Savennieres Roche Aux Moines

The 2016 Roche aux Moines from Tessa Laroche is a superb Chenin Blanc showing elegant aromas of pear and quince with limeflower and citrus, quite complex and pretty. The superb shist terroir of "Roche aux Moines" is fully captured in this wine which has fabulous depth of white fruit and mineral flavors with very firm acidity and citrus, anise and stone in the long finish. Wonderful now with a full-flavored fish dish, this wine will cellar beatifully for twenty years and more. David Lillie

  • white
  • 10 in stock
  • $37.99

  • Organic

Raffault, Olga 2017 Chinon Rosé

The Olga Raffault Chinon rosé has gotten better and better over the past few years, perhaps it's their move towards organic farming and the fine work of Sylvie Raffault and her husband Eric de la Vigerie. 100% Cabernet Franc, 10-hour maceration and slow wild-yeast fermentation. The 2017 shows a bit more ripeness than the 2016 but remains crisp and refreshing showing lovely bright pink color, hints of raspberry and strawberry fruit, very dry and balanced on the palate with a bit of peach and red berries in the finish with bright saline acidity. "Particulièrement gouleyant" it says on the label and we couldn't agree more! (Quantities are limited on this beautiful rosé - don't delay!)

  • rosé
  • 12 in stock
  • $19.99

  • Organic

Villemade, Herve (Domaine du Moulin) 2016 Cheverny Les Ardilles

Our friend Hervé Villemade made another gorgeous "Les Ardilles" in 2016. Made from 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Gamay grown on sandy  clay with silex over limestone in Cheverny with yields of about 25 hl/ha. There was a 20-day maceration with light extraction followed by aging in  old barrels, with no added SO2 during vinificaton. The wine shows intriguing aromas of wild strawberry and plum skin, orange peel, white pepper, violet and rose. The palate is light but dense with plum and blackberry fruit, quite meaty and mineral with citrus and spice notes. Black fruits, licorice and spice linger in the long finish. This is a unique and delicious natural wine - bravo Hervé!

  • red
  • 24 in stock
  • $28.99

  • Organic
  • Low Sulfur

Villemade, Herve 2017 Cheverny Rouge

(60% Pinot Noir, 40% Gamay grown on sandy clay and flint soils over limestone in Cellettes, Chitenay and Fougères sur Bièvre, AOC Cheverny; 15-day whole cluster fermentation, aged in old barrels) 2017 is another great vintage for this light and lovely Cheverny Rouge from Hervé Villemade; slight reduction then very pretty aromas of plum, strawberry and blood orange with rose and white pepper; tart cherry and chalky raspberry/strawberry fruit on the palate, light but sappy and long with earthy citrus and berry fruits in the refreshing finish. This is a delightfully natural thirst-quenching red - serve cool with any chicken or pork dish, charcuterie and mild cheeses. DL

  • red
  • 35 in stock
  • $20.99

  • Organic
  • Low Sulfur

Villemade, Herve 2017 Cheverny Blanc

Hervé Villemade's 2017 Cheverny Blanc is a lovely and versatile wine, made from 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Chardonnay grown on flinty sand and clay soils. The wine shows pretty aromas of pear, citrus, almond and stone with hints of boxwood and white flowers. The palate is supple with white and yellow fruits,  ripe citrus, a bit of anise and herbal flavors and is nicely balanced with firm acidity. This is a delicious and refreshing everyday white that will accompany most seafood dishes, chicken, white meats and goat cheeses.  David Lillie

  • white
  • 6 in stock
  • $18.99

  • Organic
  • Low Sulfur

Tue-Boeuf 2017 Vin de France Vin Rouge Gamay

2017 is another super vintage for Thierry Puzelat's refreshing Vin Rouge. This is a perfect 100% Gamay to drink quite cool with charcuterie, chicken and grilled meats, showing nice concentration and ripeness, balanced and bright on the palate and finishing with refreshing juicy acids and pretty red fruits. Enjoy!

  • red
  • 22 in stock
  • $19.99

  • Organic
  • Low Sulfur

Bonhomme, Pierre-Olivier 2017 Vin de France Le Telquel

This "poil dur" is wagging its tail again in 2017, showing juicy aromas of blackberry, rose, spice and citrus. It's all Gamay in this vintage, with an extra layer of ripness, and nice density of bright blackberry fruit, a bit floral and spicy. Quite refreshing with good length of lush berry fruits and citrusy acids in the finish. Serve a bit cool with charcuterie, chicken and pork - just delicious!  David Lillie

  • red
  • 9 in stock
  • $17.49

  • Organic
  • Low Sulfur

Bonhomme, Pierre-Olivier 2017 Vin de France Vercheny

Pierre-Olivier Bonhomme and Thierry Puzelat used to co-helm a négociant project (aptly named Puzelat-Bonhomme) for a number of years until Thierry had to take on full responsibility of his family's estate, Clos du Tue-Bœuf. Luckily, Pierre-O was poised to take over the reins fully and continues to produce delectable wines from the Cheverny/Touraine region in the Loire. Pierre-O currently works ten hectares and still sources some fruit from trusted friends, also working organically. This vintage of the Vercheny (an anagram of Cheverny) is 80% Pinot Noir, 20% Gamay. Grapes are hand-harvested, whole cluster fermentation occurs in vat, and the wine ages for at least six months in used 500L barrels. A spectrum of red fruits present on the nose, with fresh red cherries slowly evolving into cherry candy syrup as your nose lingers in the glass. This comes alongside initial notes of seaweed, raspberry seeds, and savory cheese rind. The wine is bright with acidity and a touch of structure framing juicy red raspberries, strawberies, cherries and tangy red apple skin on the lingering finish. Cari Bernard

  • red
  • 10 in stock
  • $20.99

  • Organic
  • Low Sulfur

Chevalerie 2014 Bourgueil Les Galichets

We're big fans of the Caslot family at Domane de la Chevalerie, who  make soulful Bourgueils from organic vineyards on their varied terroirs.  The Chevalerie vineyard is on mid-slope Turonian limestone with clay and alluvial sand and gravel topsoils, rich in silex; the vines average about 60 years of age. The 2014 vintage in Bourgueil and Chinon is excellent and the 14s at Domaine de la Chevalerie are absolutely superb!  This wine is a fabulous mix of fruit and minerals, perfectly balanced and with terrific length: dense black/red color, with aromas that blend soil, stone and black-raspberry fruit with hints of cocoa and violet. The palate is dense and supple and intensely mineral - a blend of stone  and cool red fruits lifted by firm acidity, with the bright fruit continuing in the long mineral finish. This is a beautiful Bourgueil that can be enjoyed now with roast chicken, pork dishes, even a steak - or hold for ten to fifteen years for a mature experience. It's a faulous value at $19.99 - congratulations to the Caslots! David Lillie

  • red
  • 23 in stock
  • $19.99

  • Organic
  • Biodynamic
  • Low Sulfur

Chevalerie 2014 Bourgueil Cuvee Chevalerie

We're big fans of the Caslot family at Domane de la Chevalerie, who  make soulful Bourgueils from organic/biodynamic vineyards on their superb terroirs.  The Chevalerie vineyard is on mid-slope Turonian limestone with clay and alluvial sand and gravel topsoils, rich in silex; the vines average about 60 years of age. 2014 is a superb vintage for the Cuvee Chevalerie which shows a lovely deep red color and fresh ripe black raspberry and cassis with black pepper, stone, prune and roast meat. The palate is well-structued and quite concentrated with complex black fruit liqueur, spice, bitter chocolate, licorice and truffle, with a long finish of sappy fruit and mineral flavors. This is a beautiful Bourgueil of terroir that con be enjoyed now with coq-qu-vin, steak au poivre and grilled lamb, best to wait  3 - 5 years, then drink until 2030 and beyond. Highly recommended.  David Lillie

  • red
  • 18 in stock
  • $24.99

  • Organic
  • Biodynamic
  • Low Sulfur

Chevalerie 2014 Bourgueil Busardiere

"Busardieres" is a great vineyard fairly high on the slope in Bourgueil on Middle Turonian limestone with shallow topsoils of clay with pebbles of limestone with mica, always giving a wine that is a bit austere in its youth, very mineral and built to age. The 2014 is a superb example that showed sensationally when tasted with Stephanie Caslot in February 2018. Re-tasted in September, the wine shows a deep red/black color with aromas of ripe morello cherry, black raspberry and elderberry, quite deep and meaty with hints of menthol, juniper, dark chocolate and black pepper. The palate shows dense, chalky, ripe black raspberry, cherry and black plum liqueur, beautifully balanced and fresh, with hints of cocoa, citrus peel, humus and minerals with a beautiful finish of bright, sappy fruit and stone flavors. This is a beautiful wine - a bit intense for drinking now, but with a long decant it will be lovely. Best after three to five years, drink till 2035 and beyond. Highly recommended. David Lillie

  • red
  • 21 in stock
  • $28.99

  • Organic
  • Biodynamic
  • Low Sulfur

Chevalerie 2009 Bourgueil Busardière

Stéphanie and Emmanuel Caslot are the current proprietors of this 400 year-old estate in Bourgueil. With excellent parcels on all the varied terroirs of Bourgueil they produce delicious old-school wines with great organic farming and natural vinifications with low sulfur. "Busardières is a great mid-slope parcel on Turonien limestone with clay rich in mica.Tasted in France in February, 2018, the 2009 Busardières showed beautifully, with complex aromas, both primary and maturing, of floral black raspberry with earth, musk , citrus and licorice. The palate shows earthy black-raspberry with cool acidity, plum skin, spice, citrus and mineral flavors, really delightful! A great food wine with a great balance of ripeness and eathy acidity, this is lovely now, in mid-life, and will be superb with ten to fifteen more years in the cellar. Only 60 bottles and only at Chambers Street!  David Lillie

  • red
  • 28 in stock
  • $32.99

  • Organic
  • Biodynamic
  • Low Sulfur
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Baudry 2015 Chinon La Croix Boissée

(Last 8 bottles) From a small parcel of sandy clay over limestone (calcaire micacé) on a south-facing slope above Cravant. 24 months of aging in 1 to 4 year-old Burgundy barriques. (Over the years, the Baudrys have moved to a more gentle extraction on this wine and have lengthened the barrel aging, never in new oak.) This is one of the greatest reds of the Loire Valley - at it's best after ten to twenty years of aging, the wine is also quite delicious, though with firm chalky tannins, when young. The 2015 is a bit softer and more immediately enjoyable than the 2014, but it's a superb "Croix Boissée" that was sensational out of barrel when tasted in February of 2016 and 2017. Tasted from bottle on arrival in NY, the wine shows a deep red/black color and lush aromas of blackberry and strawberry, with black pepper, rose, citrus, roast meat and earth - quite ripe but with nice brightness. The palate is a bit closed but showing real elegance of blackberry and red currant fruit, floral and balanced, with a dense core of mineral flavors and cool acidity. The finish is long and elegant with pure red fruits and firm structure. Decant if drinking now, best 2024 - 2040+  David Lillie

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $44.99

  • Organic
  • Low Sulfur

Baudry 2015 Chinon Le Clos Guillot

(Last few cases!) Le Clos Guillot is a beautiful south-east facing vineyard, just east of the town of Chinon, above the Clos de l'Olive and adjacent to Le Chêne Vert. The upper slope of the parcel is clay over limestone (the lower part has sand and gravel over the rock, which permits a tiny  production from franc de pied vines) and the vines are young, planted from 1993 to 2000. Fermentation in wooden cuves, 12 months of aging in two to five year-old barrels, 9 additional months in unlined cement vats. We have been buying this wine since it's first production in 2000 – it's one of the most elegant and Burgundian of Chinons. The 2015 Le Clos Guillot is absolutely beautiful, showing elegant aromas of blackberry liqueur, violets, stone and roast meat, a bit darker than Les Grézeaux, lovely and ethereal. The palate is dense and silky with blackberry and black raspberry fruit, ripe and sapid, perfectly balanced and bright with a firm mineral core. The finish is long and pure. While this is beautiful now, cellaring of seven to ten years should reveal a profound mature wine, then drink until 2035+  David Lillie

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $34.99

  • Organic
  • Low Sulfur

Tue-Boeuf 2017 Touraine La Butte (Gamay)

100% Gamay on clay and flint over limestone, organic and biodynamic farming, 12.5% alcohol. Beautiful fruit and great balance in 2017, the wine shows lovely ripe strawberry and raspberry with pretty floral notes. Quite dense red fruits on the palate, supple and textured, really lovely and lifted by refreshing acidity. This is just plain yummy and will accompany just about anything...

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $23.99

  • Organic
  • Low Sulfur