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Chignard, Cédric 2022 Juliénas Beauvernay
This is a lovely Beaujolais from the Chignard family, better known for their Fleurie "Les Moriers." As with much of Julienas the bedrock of "Beauvernay" is diorite, rather than granite, locally called "roches bleues." It's an interesting terroir of volcanic origin with more clay and rich in magnesium, giving complex well-structured wines. Possessing the ripe fruit and lush palate of the 2022 vintage in Beaujolais, the Julienas "Beauvernay" shows a pretty red/black color, with elegant, a bit restrained aromas of black raspberry and black cherry with violet, blood orange, earth and stone, which should open up nicely over the next few years. It's ripe and sapid but with lively acidity and well proportioned. Tart cherry, plum and red currant fruit with saline minerals, earth and spice coat the palate and continue in the earthy finish. Quite lovely now, especially with a long decant, this should soften and gain complexity with three to five years of aging, drink till 2028.
Coudert (Clos de la Roilette) 2021 Fleurie Griffe du Marquis
Aged in two to six year-old Burgundy barrels. From eighty-plus year-old vines, as is Tardive. "The wood is obviously not present to mask the wine, but rather to accompany it, to complement its tannins and create complexity. It's really tight the first two years, but opens up beautifully when you give it some time," says Alain.
Coudert (Clos de la Roilette) 2022 Fleurie Cuvée Tardive 1.5 L
2022 is certainly a vintage for mags!
Coudert (Clos de la Roilette) 2022 Fleurie Cuvée Tardive
We have had the pleasure of selling every vintage of Alain Coudert's "Cuvée Tardive" since it's creation in 1994 (or was it 1995?) and the 2022 is certainly one of the best! Although the vintage is marked by ripeness and generous alcohol (14%) we found the 2022 to be less forward and more firmly structured than the equally sunny vintages of 2018 - 2020. From average 80 year-old vines in clay with manganese in addition to granite soils near Moulin-A-Vent, fermentation in whole clusters with native yeasts in open-top, neutral wood vats with the cap kept submerged; the maceration for Tardive is approximately 18 days, aging takes place in old foudres. The 2022 shows a dark black/red color, with elegant aromas of ripe blackberry and black cherry with violet, licorice and earth. The palate is deep and tight with black cherry, blackberry and strawberry liqueur, licorice and spice, backed by firm acidity and intense mineral flavors. The finish is sensational with fabulous purity and depth, showing very firm tannins and slightly bitter black fruits. Please hold five years, and drink until 2040. Very little is available, 6 bottle maximum, please. David Lillie
Coudert (Clos de la Roilette) 2022 Fleurie Clos de la Roilette
There is no shortage of ripeness in the 2022 "Clos de la Roilette" Fleurie from our friend Alain Coudert, but despite the 14% of alcohol, this wine is just delightlful, showing charming, pure raspberry fruit with aromas that are delicate and floral but lush and deep at the same time. The full-bodied palate is beautifully textured and balanced by bright acidity with earth and mineral flavors beneath the lovely dense fruit. Serve this gorgeous wine a bit cool over the next five to eight years, pure enjoyment!
Descombes, Georges 2019 Morgon Vieilles Vignes
This is a classic version of the Descombes Morgon VV, showing ripe high-toned black raspberry and tart cherry aromas with plum, violet, citrus, earth and brown spice, really lovely. The elegant sappy black and red fruits continue on the palate with complex notes of blood orange, mint and spice, quite saline and earthy as well, really showing the terroir. The wine is dense and structured but bright and balanced, finishing with refreshing acidity, citrus, cherry fruit, anise and mineral flavors. Delicious now, this should be superb in three to five years, and should drink well till 2030 and beyond. David Lillie
Descombes, Georges 2020 Morgon
Georges Descombes has created another superb Morgon in 2020 - not as bright perhaps as the 2014 (pictured) but with a similar balance of alcohol (13%), freshness and very ripe sappy fruit. The wine shows a bright, vivid red/black color with earth, violet and citrus notes mingling with lovely raspberry and blackberry aromas. The palate is ripe, silky and well-structured with fresh, velvety raspberry, cherry and blackberry fruit, with earth and mineral notes bringing texture and length to the sappy, lingering finish. This is a beautiful Morgon to serve cool with farm chicken, grilled pork and lamb, cow cheeses and charcuterie over the next 4 - 5 years. David Lillie
Descombes, Georges 2020 Morgon Vieilles Vignes
The Descombes Morgon Vieilles Vignes is made from 60 to 100 year-old vines from numerous sites on granite soils; semi-carbonic fermentation then aging 6 - 8 months in Burgundy barrels and one year in bottle before release. Dense and dark, this wine has formidable concentration. Some nice floral notes on the nose, with some vegetable ash and herbal characteristics wrapped around the dense dark fruit core. Deep and intense blackberry compote character on the palate is supported by inky tannin. This is a full-blooded Beaujolais that will benefit from a decade in the cellar, though right now it's certainly delicious as a young wine as well - always one of our favorite Beaujolais!
Descombes, Georges 2020 Morgon Vieilles Vignes 1.5 L
This is a classic version of the Descombes Morgon VV, showing ripe high-toned black raspberry and tart cherry aromas with plum, violet, citrus, earth and brown spice, really lovely. The elegant sappy black and red fruits continue on the palate with complex notes of blood orange, mint and spice, quite saline and earthy as well, really showing the terroir. The wine is dense and structured but bright and balanced, finishing with refreshing acidity, citrus, cherry fruit, anise and mineral flavors. Delicious now, this should be superb in three to five years, and should drink well till 2030 and beyond. David Lillie
Desvignes 2021 Morgon Côte de Py
From old vines on the north-east section of the Cote du Py, semi-carbonic vinification with a longer maceration and more extraction than normal in the Beaujolais. The forward, fresh character of the 2021 vintage suits the Desvignes style nicely with the wine showing softer tannins and lush fruit ideal for drinking young. Deep red/black color. Pretty aromas of black-raspberry, strawberry and red currant with violet and citrus, quite ripe. The palate is rich and supple with firm tannins and acidity, showing red fruit liqueur, black cherry and hints of cocoa an earth. This is a lovely example of the Desvignes style in a lighter, more traditional vintage.
Henriot, Sandrine 2020 Beaujolais-Villages
Sandrine Hanriot took over the Biodynamic vines of Roland Pignard in Morgon, Regnie and Beaujolais-Villages. The 2020 BV shows a bright red color with aromas of violet, raspberry, cherry and white pepper, with light red fruits on the palate, refreshing and a bit earthy with tart berry fruits and minerals in the finish. Serve quite cool with charcuterie, roast chicken and mild cheeses.
Sandrine Henriot's parcel in Regnié has more clay in the soil than in Morgon and always gives a well-structured wine. The 2021 shows a bright black/purple color and high-toned aromas of blackberry and black raspberry with violet and citrus peel, quite elegant. The palate is supple and ripe but not heavy with lovely black raspberry, cherry and raspberry confit, quite sapid and long with refreshing acidity and finishing with lingering red fruit and mineral flavors. Delicious now this will open up over the next few years, drink until 2028.
Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) 2021 Beaujolais l'Ancien V.V.
L'Ancien comes from Jean Paul Brun's home village of Charnay in the southern Beaujolais. The vines range in age from 40 to 60 years old and are planted on slopes sporting the area's signature sandy clay-limestone soils, featuring the particular local "dorée" or "golden" limestone that is laden with iron. These older vines have always been farmed organically and harvested by hand and yield small, thick-skinned Gamay berries. As for all Terres Dorées reds, the vinification is traditional Burgundian rather than the normal carbonic maceration in Beaujolais. The palate shows lush, ripe berry fruits backed by citrusy acidity, quite refreshing. The finish is long and sappy with bright red fruits and tart acidity - stock-up on this crowd-pleasing Beaujolais!
Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) 2022 Beaujolais Chardonnay
Jean-Paul Brun's Chardonnay comes from 35 year-old vines grown on sandy clay and limestone soils in the southern Beaujolais and is raised in stainless steel (no oak). Bright aromas of peach, apricot, lemon zest, and thyme lead to flavors of pure white fruits, juicy lime, crisp orange blossom, subtle herbal undertones, and a long chalky finish. Paired with salad, seafood,chicken, goat milk cheeses, or nothing at all, this is a beautiful choice and great value in white Burgundy!
Vignes du Maynes 2019 Morgon Les Charmes
Starting with beautiful biodynamic grapes from Roland Pignard on "les Charmes" in Morgon, Julien worked his magic in the cellar with his zero-sulfur semi-carbonic vinification and the result is this superb Morgon from great terroir. The wine shows the ripeness of this excellent vintage in Beaujolais and the intense flavors of terroir always present in the Pignard wines over the years. Julien's vinification has created a beautifully balanced and pretty wine with fabulous length - drink now or cellar 5 to 10 years.
Vionnet, Karim 2020 Beaujolais-Villages
Karim Vionnet, who worked for years with Guy Breton, makes Beaujolais-Villages and Chiroubles with 5 hectares of vines averaging 55 years old. No chemical treatments in the vineyard and no yeasts, sugar or sulfur added in vinification. The Beaujolais-Villages, from vines in Quincie, Beaujeu and Lantigne, receives about 10 mg of sulfur at bottling. As we have watched a lot of our favorite wines from the region creep up in price, the Vionnet is still mercifully affordable and delicious. It's full of pretty high toned strawberry and purple-tinged fruit and lined around the edges with hints of dark flowers and baking spices, etc etc. What is really important with great Beaujolais is that fresh quenching feel that comes when you drain your glass after a bite of fatty ham or sausage with some crusty bread. This is a perfect wine when you need a bottle or four. Sam Ehrlich