Private Collection: Burgundy, Rhone and more

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Colin-Morey 2010 Meursault Les Narvaux

Lovely minerality and a scent like toasted bread & toasted hazelnuts, lots of extract,  a very full bodied white wine with bracing acidity. Very nice, very fine, and powerful.  This will age beautifully.  Like many big white burgundies this will benefit from decanting to help it open up. -jbt

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Colin-Morey, Pierre-Yves 2011 Puligny-Montrachet Le Trezin

The "le Trezin" vineyard is the only village-level vineyard on the hill of Montrachet. It is a very cool site high up on top of the slope.  Puligny wines are very special in 2011 and this wine is no exception. The balance between the forward fruit and the acidity creates a dynamic tension — after the intial blast of fruit this thread of acidity comes out — a hallmark of the 2011 vintage. It is this beautiful acidity that introduces the very long finish. This wine is very forward; expressive with bright fruit, good mouthweight and is already very complex. It is chiseled, precise, elegant and racy.   Very "Puligny". This will drink well young and will put on weight and become more elegant as it ages.  This wine is a great value from Puligny Montrachet and there is not that much Puligny Montrachet produced in an abundant year, let alone a lean one.  Considering how little wine was produced in 2010 and 2012 it would be prudent to stock up on this wine. JBT

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Fourrier 2017 Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes

In the past ten or so years, the wines of Jean-Marie Fourrier have gone from one of the best-kept secrets in Burgundy to one of the best-known quantities. These are wines of almost heartbreaking delicacy, brimming with fragile pure red fruit and spice. The viticulture here is first rate and the use of new oak is fabulously restrained, notable in a village where it is often applied lavishly. The Gevrey Chambertin "Vieilles Vignes" is sourced from three parcels, largely planted between 1955 and 1928. Year in and out, this is one of the best village-level wines made anywhere.

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Cantemerle 2012 Haut Médoc

Chateau Cantemerle is one of the oldest estates in Bordeaux, having begun planting vines in the 1300's and is classified as a fifth growth! They are located on the southern end of the Haut-Medoc just below Margaux. This is a great value for classified Bordeaux, especially from 2012 which was largely a tricky vintage in the area, but turned out to be a  successful year for the estate. The blend is roughly 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot. The grapes are fully destemmed, fermented in a mixture of tanks, and then aged in 35% new French Oak for twelve months, followed by four months in vats.

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Balthazar, Franck 2018 Cornas "Sans Soufre Ajouté"

From young vines in the vineyards of "La Legre" and "Les Cotes," whole-cluster fermentation, aged in old 600 liter casks, bottled un-fined, unfiltered and with zero added SO2. This wine is too rare to taste, so we again refer to drinkrhône: "lusty dark robe, purple on black. The nose is crunchy, black-fruited, comes with an air of Morello black cherry, blueberry, rose petal. This is fine grain Cornas, one with lovely purity, pinpoint accuracy, the tannins firming up the second half, with their fine grain, their change of texture. The fruit is cool, has a good strike of clarity. It gives a lot of iron late, is very interesting, a maximum naked wine, the fruit great. 14°. Bottled 14 Nov 2019. Drink until 2030-33"

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  • Organic
  • No Sulfur
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Bonnefond 2017 Côte-Rôtie Cote Roziers

Patrick and Christophe Bonnefond make very pure, concentrated wines (both Condrieu and Côte-Rôtie) with the top cuvées, Rochains and Côte Rosiers, both adjoining La Landonne on either side, built for long aging. "very dark red, black centre to the robe. Smoked bacon, cordite, lines of shiny blackcurrant fruits show on the nose, which has a pure strength. There is good immediate thrust on the palate, which goes directly, has rich appeal. There is slight grilling, and a firm, packed foundation. It lengthens solidly. This is masculine,  is a promising, well charged Rôtie."  (drinkrhone.com) Enjoy until 2035 - 2040.

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Ferrand 2016 Chateauneuf-du-Pape

(90% Grenache averaging 75 years of age, with 10% Syrah, Mourvèdre, Bourboulenc, from sandy and galet stone soils)  "...dark red colour. The nose leads with a stylish aroma of blackberry, mixed in with dried herbes de Provence, a note of rose petal, licorice. It will open and vary well. The fruit swishes around the palate well, has a blueberry-blackberry axis, with good, ripe, live tannins wrapped around it. This is a really genuine Châteauneuf with good heart and serious length, a proper from the ground up wine with some delicate aromatics involved." drinkrhone

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  • Organic
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Calsac, Étienne 2016 Avize Grand Cru Clos des Maladries

100% Chardonnay from a tiny 0.16 hectare south-facing parcel in Avize. Fermented in tank and barrel. Disgorged 1/21, bottled without dosage. With vines planted in the 1970s, the chalk-soiled Clos des Maladries is a true Clos (enclosed by walls) and plowed by horse. Pale golden robe. Effusive aromas of golden apple, lemon blossom, acacia honey, lemon cream, oyster shell, and chalk emanate from the glass. The taut, chiseled palate is pungently mineral and saline with its chiseled frame lent charm by ripe citrus and white stone fruit flavors and a ripple of autolyse radiating from the core. This is still very much young but the verve, brio, and startling persistence of the lengthy, sapid finish that already impresses. While this was quite good with a starter of spaghetti alla gricia, it was better still with a pork cutlet with a mint hazelnut pesto over wilted greens. Nonetheless, I’d be inclined give this a few years in the cellar to allow the elements to knit. That said, this offered enough excitement upon opening to elicit an audible, “golly.” Highly recommended for lovers of deep chalk and even deeper umami. John McIlwain

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Egly-Ouriet NV Champagne Brut Rosé Grand Cru

A powerful, dry, barrel-matured Rosé Champagne. The wine is a blend of fruit from Bouzy, Ambonnay, and Verzenay comprising 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay. Rich, beefy, savory, and quite dry at 2-3 grams/liter dosage. MSB

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Savart NV Champagne Brut Ecueil "L'Accomplie" Disg 2019

Frédéric Savart's "L'Accomplie" bottling picks up where "L'Ouverture" leaves off. Also from vines in Ecueil, the wine is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. Complex and elegant, this wine feels drier than "L'Overture" and sees an additional year of lees aging. The finish has pronounced and lip smacking minerality and the texture is fine and creamy. MSB

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