Private Collection: France

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Allemand, Thierry 1999 Cornas Chaillot

If Shiraz could wish, it would (should?) wish to be like this wine… rich and intense without turning into an imitation of Port… A classic Syrah nose of black fruit, bacon fat, the peppergrinder, stony earth, a hint of garrigue herbaceousness; on the palate, great purity, complexity, and balance and length. For years some friends raved about Allemand – it was like a cult – once I finally tasted his wine I joined immediately. I have a few bottles of this wine in my cellar – I was eying one just the other day, thinking, “Damn, that looks good”, and then, “No, not yet!”. I’m going to take advantage of this stash of the fabulous 1999 to add a few more. PS Allemand makes 3 cuvees: this one, Chaillot, from vines under 40 years old; Reynard, which is from very old vines; and an un-sulphured cuvee which I’ve sold but never tasted, such being the woeful life of the wine-loving wine merchant. Chaillot is certainly more approachable and open than Reynard, which really needs time in the cellar. JW

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Vatan, Edmund 2006 Sancerre Clos de la Neore

Airy and concentrated at the same time with so much richness yet steel-like precision and laser-like acidity. Yes this is a wine that will induce many a metaphor. There is a lime streak smothered in minerality along with piquant and stern acidity to enable long ageing. LF

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