Private Collection: Brovia Barolo

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I love Brovia. I think that Brovia, especially in the last 15-20 years, offers the quality and finesse of the very best Barolos - and the Brovia wines are bargains by comparison with those much more expensive peers (not that I'm wishing for it, but imho I don't understand why Brovia prices haven't gone the way of Burlotto and Cappellano). I love that their four single-vineyard wines are each vivid and distinct expressions of individual terroir. My good fortune in having visited Brovia many times has made personal the deep connection between the people, the land and their wines. I think about Brovia and feel calm and unrushed - a reflection of the balanced character of the wines, which always show well and reflect the best of the vintage. This stash comes from the temp-controlled cellar of a long-time devotee (don't worry, they still have plenty of Brovia!) and represents a rare chance to find these superb Barolos. Jamie Wolff

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Brovia 2008 Barolo Ca'Mia

I love this wine, so we bought quite a lot of it. All of the Brovia 2008s are balanced and elegant, but they’re also compact at their core in a way that suggests incredible future complexity and aging potential. The Ca’Mia is perhaps the deepest of the four cru wines, with a dense core in an elegant and balanced wrapper. The wine is ripe and tannic, and has good cut and lift – the kind of balance between structure, power, and finesse that you might hope for from the best wines from Serralunga. A wine for the cellar, and a knock-out!

Note how steep the hill of Ca'Mia is — and how chalky the soil is.

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Brovia 2008 Barolo Garblet Sue

Rich with spicy aromas (with appealing notes of orange pith); super long on palate and finish and very stony and savory; fully ripe tannin, with a lot of mid-palate presence. A complete and complex wine.

 

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Brovia 2008 Barolo Rocche dei Brovia

Highly aromatic, and very finely textured with beautiful ripe tannin; the palate is deep with pure dark classic Nebbiolo flavor, but not heavy; medium-bodied. A great wine!

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Brovia 2008 Barolo Villero

Aromatic and rich with clay, raspberry fruit, herbs with mint. Sweet fruit in the mouth, followed by pronounced firm – but ripe – tannins; great depth and lovely finish. Great potential with some time in the cellar.

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Brovia 2009 Barolo Rocche dei Brovia

Very aromatic with beautiful fruit – raspberry, wild strawberry, and herbs, and mineral/clay; all of those on the palate and gorgeous ripe tannin – there is plenty of structure, and this looks like benchmark Rocche – chalky, a little austere now, with great depth and promise — presently a little somber in character, but with beautiful balance, and very elegant and fine. A great wine. JW

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Brovia 2010 Barolo Brea Ca'Mia

In conformance with changes to labeling regulations that went into effect this year, Ca’Mia is now called Brea - Vigna Ca’Mia. This has no effect on what is one of the great wines of the region, and a transparent vehicle for old vines from limestone soil. And as usual it shows earthy and chalky, with dark fruit on the nose, all reflected on the palate. It’s quite full bodied – again a surprise in how it combines intense and dense structure that seems balanced and even elegant. Another Brovia for the cellar. Jamie Wolff

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Brovia 2010 Barolo Garblet Sué

The embarrassing truth is that I barely wrote a note about this wine, beyond saying “v. good, intense, ripe tannin, a step more structured than Rocche”. Poetry in motion… I must have gone into a 1000 yard stare… this can happen when you taste a lot of wine after lunch. My apologies! Jamie Wolff

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Brovia 2010 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione

Rocche is not exactly what you might call feminine in character (and in that sense it’s probably silly to refer to any Barolo as Chambolle-esque), but all things being relative, Rocche reminds me more and more of Chambolle for finesse and balance. This is apparent in Brovia Rocche 2010, which is one example of the vintage that recalls 1989 – amazing purity, and plenty of power with beautiful balance. It’s an elegant wine, and I think a great wine, but tight and tough now. Let’s meet in 2025… Jamie Wolff

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Brovia 2010 Barolo Villero

Villero showed dark, dense, tight, full of texture and material, very tannic and not presently very nuanced, but it’s clearly a very very good wine. How? Because it’s all there – aromatically intense, packed with fruit, and very ripe tannins. It’s an infant; aside from tasting for the sake of science it makes no sense to try to drink this now. Jamie Wolff

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Brovia 2011 Barolo Brea Ca'Mia

Ca'Mia is beautiful and intense – a direct reminder of the white soil, mineral chalk earth of the vineyard. It’s quite rich but suave, hitting a balance of depth and intensity with a fundamentally austere and elegant character. A great success. Jamie Wolff *Brea is the official name of the cru; Ca'Mia is the Brovia's proprietary name for their vines in Brea.

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Brovia 2011 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione

Significantly more depth than the very fine Barolo classico, with herbs and meaty notes along with notable chalk tang – very fine grained tannins; a bit richer and rounder than the 2010, but lacking none of the finesse that Rocche (and the Brovias) can produce. Jamie Wolff

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Brovia 2013 Barolo Brea Ca'Mia

If your child was born in 2013, or if you were married in 2013, or if you can think of any other plausible excuse to buy the Brea Ca’Mia, AND if you can cellar it for years to come, then don’t hesitate. It’s a very impressive wine. Jamie Wolff

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Brovia 2013 Barolo Villero

My friend Gregory calls Villero “Barolo with training wheels”, by which I think he means that Villero produces wines that are both classic and easy to understand – thus, a good introductory wine. I’m a fan of Villero in general (see also G. Fenocchio, G. Mascarello, Oddero) so I’m sometimes a little embarrassed that perhaps my fandom reveals my training wheels tastes… But in any case I’m not so sure that the Brovia 2013 Villero fits Gregory’s bill. It’s got some real density that carries through to the finish, balanced with bright raspberry fruit. Tasted just last week at Barolo Night, it was showing structured and austere, with the dark, savoury core that’s present in all of the Brovia 2013s. Jamie Wolff

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Brovia 2015 Barolo Brea Ca'Mia

The range of wines at Brovia always show individual character, but this is amplified in 2015. Alex Sanchez (of Brovia) told us that he sees 2015 as first “a vintage of terroir”; when we get to the Brea Ca’Mia one of our group says “Serralunga to 11”, which pretty well sums it up, except that there are only a few other wines from Serralunga of this quality (side diatribe: most Rionda misses the standard). As usual the Ca’Mia is the most tannic and structured of the line-up, this is certainly a long-term prospect. 111 points. Jamie Wolff

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Brovia 2015 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione

As always, this is a special wine. Elegant, but fairly powerful, tasted in May 2019 it showed a ton of depth amplified by ripe tannin, and a complex and super-long finish. In many vintages Brovia Rocche has made me think of Chambolle, but the 2015 is more in the line of Cote Rotie. Ok, that may be a specious comparison, but I do love Cote Rotie! Jamie Wolff

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Brovia 2015 Barolo Villero

– A beauty – tight, of course, and subtle and austere now, I thought this was a gorgeous Villero, with everything you’d want in a wine to put away for 20 years. Very fine indeed. Jamie Wolff

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Brovia 2016 Barolo Garblet Sué

For years Garblet Sue  has been - for me - the most elusive of the Brovia wines. Then the 2015 turned out to be a very fine wine, and the 2016, tasted from barrel, showed equally well. Now I'm looking forward to trying it again... Jamie Wolff

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