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More and more we are hearing interest from our community in "natural wines" and wines without the addition of sulfur. Though the term "natural wine" is still largely up for debate, generally it is accepted that the wine should have very low to no amounts of added SO2. Sulfur dioxide is a naturally occurring by-product of fermention, thus a wine with no added sulfur-dioxide can still contain 10 mg/l or even more of naturally produced SO2 , though more is often added during the winemaking process and/or at bottling to act as a preservative against unwelcome bacteria and premature-oxidation. Conventional winemaking involves large, and often unhealthy, doses of sulfur in order to create uniform and indestructible wines that can withstand the rigors of long travel times and temperature fluctuations. The argument against making wines without sulfur is that they can sometimes be a bit volatile, and if made improperly, or without thoroughly clean cellars and vessels, can result in wines with off-putting aromas or flavors. Without the security of sulfur, winemakers are at the whim of the season.
On the other hand, this changeability is exactly what many of us covet about a "no sulfur" wine. In the right hands, and under the right conditions, these wines can exude a vibrancy and energy that wines whacked with sulfur may never have. Though small doses of this preservative can often have no, or nearly imperceptible, effect on the flavor, a large dose can seriously deaden the flavors (not to mention the health effects, but we're not doctors so I'll let you do your own research on that). It can also allow the wines to evolve in remarkable ways that you might not see in more "stable" wines.
The 'Sin Azufre' from Chacra in Patagonia is an excellent example of everything that can go right with a no sulfur wine. This bottling began as an experiment. After working tirelessly in the vineyards since their inception to avoid the use of chemicals, the winemaker wondered what might happen if they refrained from adding anything in the cellar; instead relying on their nose and sense of taste to guide them. Their mission was to "capture the energy" and terroir of the vineyard and somehow this wine does just that.
We have also just received our tiny allocation of Ruth Lewandowski wines, all made without any sulfur additions. In previous vintages some bottlings saw a small dose added, but with each year, as Evan's techniques evolve and improve he sees less need for it, trusting the work he has done in the cellar, and the work of his growers in the vineyard.
In the warm land of Puglia, where mass-production reigns, there is a man named Natalino del Prete, and we have long coveted his wines, none of which see added sulfur. His vineyards are an oasis in a land of dead soil. The hearty, complex Negroamaro 'Anne' is the perfect example of how solidly structured, how complex in flavor and aroma, a wine can be when farmed well and brought up with care.
And while some producers are creating specific bottlings without sulfur additions, or have developed their whole lines to be SO2-free over time, there are examples of families and wineries that have never added it in their production. The Bulli family is deeply rooted in the Colli Piancentini region of Emilia-Romagna and have made wines without it for five generations. Humble in origin and very proud of the health of their vineyards and the style of their traditional methods, they believe the strength and stability of their wines come from the soil.
From Spain we would like to highlight beautiful new zero-sulfur wines from two of our favorite winemakers: Oriol Artigas and Goyo Garcia Viadero. Both have been stalwart in their adherence to a zero sulfur approach for the past few years, and their wines show all of the upsides of the approach. Goyo Garcia Viadero's Malvasia is a fascinating and elegant expression of skin-contact white wine. Oriol Artigas' El Rall, a blend of red grapes (mostly Merlot, Syrah, and Garnatxa) from old vineyards around Barcelona, is a great medium-bodied red that shows pretty herbal and salty coastal character. Beyond these new wines from the most recent 2019 vintage, we also have a small number of (lovely) wines from 2018 from these producers.
The Keropatis, from Siflogo in Lefkada, Greece is also exciting and different: a very light red wine made from a very dark black grape by very brief maceration on the skins. Vinified without sulfur or other additions, it's the perfect style of delicate, easy drinking, but complex red wine for drinking with a bit of a chill during the summer.
Today we are thrilled to showcase a few of our favorite zero sulfur wines from all over the world!
Laguerre 2014 IGP Côtes Catalanes Oxy (5 years sous voile)
Eric has once again made a small quantity of "Oxy" - his extraordinary Grenache Blanc that spends five years sous-voile. The current vintage is 2014 (we think) - for any lover of Vin Jaune, or anyone making chicken with vin jaune and morels, this is a must buy! The wine shows lovely herbal, stone, citrus peel and strong oxidative aromas. The oxidation is less apparent on the palate which is extremely elegant and of course shows an intense minerality, with flavors of lemon zest, stone and dried pear, finishing with terrific length. Superb and unique wine! (No added SO2) David Lillie
Bodega Chacra 2019 Patagonia Rio Negro Cinquenta y Cinco 'Sin Azufre'
Sin Azufre began as an experiment to see what would happen if you made a wine without any intervention; no temperature control, no pH readings and adjustments, and without the use of any sulfur. The result is a wine that feels "alive," that vibrates with energy and purity. Chacra was already doing conscientious work in the vineyard (farming biodynamically, encouraging biodiversity, etc) so it was a natural progression to attempt to make a wine as "naturally" as possible. This year's Sin Azufre, 100% Pinot Noir from their estate vineyard plot planted in 1955, is clean, expressive, and distinctly savory. The grapes are fermented in alternating layers of whole cluster and destemmed fruit, foot-crushed, and aged in a mixture of cement, neutral oak, and some steel. Bright red fruits mingle with notes of rosemary and soy sauce, a balance of umami and salinity that gives this wine a real sense of place. The palate is bright and lifted with soft, silky tannins. Despite the absence of sulfur as a preservative, this bottle held up for several days after opening. Michelle DeWyngaert
Matthiasson 2018 Napa Valley Red Wine "Tendu"
This is the ultimate bistro wine! Pour yourself a glass, close your eyes, and you're suddenly in a little French, or perhaps based on this blend, Italian bistro. This years "Tendu" is 47% Aglianco, 42% Montepulciano, and 11% Barbera from the Windmill Vineyard in the Dunnigan Hills AVA. Fermented in stainless steel, aged in neutral barrels, and then bottled with no additives and no sulfur, just pure, juicy goodness. Super pretty on the nose with violets, dried and fresh raspberry and purple plum. On the palate is a just the right balance of acidity, structure, and concentration with a dark, rocky finish. This is will be an excellent pairing for a wide range of savory fare from burgers, to stews, to roasted veggies! Michelle DeWyngaert
Ruth Lewandowski 2019 Mendocino Rose
There are still not many Portuguese grape varieties grown in California (or outside of Portugal for that matter) but the vines of Tinta Roriz from the Matthew Rorick Farms, and the Souzão and Touriga Nacional from Fox Hill prove to be extremely compelling year after year. For this bottling, everything is direct-pressed and aged in polyethylene containers; the Tinta Roriz provides bright red-fruit notes and lots of acidity, and the Souzão and Touriga Nacional add some structure, texture, and an herbaceous quality.
Ruth Lewandowski 2019 Mendocino Feints Cuvee Zero
Perhaps what I love most about California wines is that there are no rules to follow! This crazy blend from Evan Lewandowski is 50/50 blend of red and white grapes fermented together going through a full carbonic maceration and made without any additions or subtractions. The fruit is sourced from the beautiful Fox Hill Vineyard planted in the 1980's in Mendocino and consists of Dolcetto, Barbera, Nebbiolo and Arneis. This blend of Piemontese grapes is a complex, but always supremely refreshing, so we recommend serving well chilled, as you would a rosé.
Ruth Lewandowski 2018 Mendocino Fox Hill Vineyard "Dinos to Di
Every year Evan Lewandowski creates an experimental bottling unlike any he has made before with the proceeds donated to a selected charity (check out https://www.corazonhealdsburg.org/disaster-relief to learn more about this year's selection). For the 2018 vintage the 'Dinos to Diamonds' is a co-fermentation of 60% Merlot and 40% Sangiovese from the Fox Hill Vineyard in Mendocino. We haven't been able to try it yet, because he makes so little of it, but it sounds to be a delicious and structured, savory red!
Ruth Lewandowski 2019 Fox Hill Vineyard Mahlon
Each year the 'Mahlon' looks a little different, though it is always a bottling of 100% Arneis from the Fox Hill Vineyard. Arneis translates to "little rascal" from the Piemontese dialect from which it originates, and according to Evan Lewandowski that seems to be how this grape operates in the vineyard; changing from vintage to vintage. We were only graced with 6 bottles this year!
Vins Jardinés 2018 Vin de France Vin Pour Tous
The 2018 "Tous Pour Un et Vin Pour Tous" is made from 18 to 50 year-old vines of Melon de Bourgogne grown on Gabbro and Granit soils in Monnières - a Muscadet without the AOC. Organic and biodynamic farming, in conversion, zero added SO2. This is a beautiful "natural" Muscadet from the talented Yoann Gillot at Les Vins Jardinés showing bright lemon/lime, almond, floral and white fruit aromas. The palate shows nice density and earthy white fruits, citrus and almond, quite mineral and showing the unique profile of Melon on Gabbro soils, finishing with lemony acids and mineral flavors. Delightful with seared scallops with anise and lemon. Highly recommended for lovers of natural wines! David Lillie
Bonnefoy (La Madone) 2019 IGP Urfé Gamay's Mi-Noir Mi-Bouze
Gilles Bonnefoy's "Gamay's Mi-Noir, Mi-Bouze" is a pure and beautiful wine made with no added sulfites, from Gamay Noir and Gamay de Bouze grown on volcanic soils. A bit similar to Christian Ducroux's "Exspectatia," the wine shows a lovely black/red color and lush aromas of black raspberry, plum, stone and violet. The palate is ripe and pure with velvety black fruits, very fresh and bright, finishing with lovely purity and good length. This is a very pretty natural wine that should be served cool - perfect with grilled foods this summer. David Lillie
Grange aux Belles 2018 Vin de France Roche de Murs
This is a spectacular new 100% Chenin Blanc cuvée from our friends at La Grange aux Belles! Since the creation of the estate, Marc Houtin (the founder, joined after by Julien Bresteau and Gérald "Jesse" Peau) was longing for a beautiful terroir to make a single vineyard chenin - he knew the plots farmed by La Grange aux Belles could make really good but not great wines, they were too rich. One day, passing by the congress center of the small town of Mûrs-Érigné he discovered at the end of the road a plot of 3 ha uncultivated land, overlooking the Louet, a little affluent of the Loire. Before the 50s, there was a vineyard here on these blue schists He knew he had found the perfect spot! After years of talks with the mayor (luckily he was part of the green party), they finally got the right to rent 1.2 ha. Immediately they cleaned it, let it fallow and in 2013 replanted it with multiple massale selection from top producers - Lise & Bertrand Jousset, Philippe Foreau, Benoit Courault, etc., adapting the rootstocks and the pruning to the very poor soil. 2018 is the third vintage of this Roche de Mûrs named after the local name of the plot - and featuring on the label a historic monument about the Vendée wars. But already with the first release in 2016 you could tell it was going to be a special one. The terroir could be tasted, even from these young plantation! With this 2018, a concentrated vintage, if on the nose the aromas are quite subtle, more floral and fruit than savory (orange blossom, lemongrass, honeydew), the palate is so intense and vibrant with a powerful backbone of schiste combined with a bracing yet ripe acidity. Aged in 600 l Stockinger barrel, the lees help to round on the structure, and bring an attractive reduction. Bottled without fining, filtration nor sulfites, it is a model of natural wine. Bravo to La Grange aux Belles for this wine and revealing a beautiful terroir forgotten by history. A bottle worth aging, you will also enjoy it decanted and served in large glass, paired with roasted guinea hen served with a purée of ratte potato and black garlic or crayfish in cream. Pascaline Lepeltier.
Vins Contés (Lemasson) 2019 Vin de Table Gama-Sutra (Gamay VV)
The 2019 Gama-Sutra is from Olivier Lemasson's oldest Gamay vines at 80-100 years old, on clay-silex soils and many on their own roots (aka ungrafted or franc de pied). Carbonic maceration, natural yeasts, no sulfur, no filtration. A deliciously bold Gamay, delivering a glass full of wild fruits and earth - both refreshing and substantial in flavor and mouthfeel. The tertiary nose hinted towards herbs and soil, with freshly stripped bark, red and black licorice, and a whiff of healthy moss. More tannic than I'd expected, the structure offered a satisfying chew, with flavors of crushed red cherry, blackberry, savory baking spice, and birch. A faint but sappy finish showing a faint herbaceous/digestif character was kept lifted by a satisfying level of medium acidity. Enjoy today, but should develop beautifully over the next 5-10 years. David Hatzopoulos
Vins Contés (Lemasson) 2019 Vin de Table Cheville de Fer
100% Côt (aka Malbec). The fruit from these 70-year-old Vins Contés vines is vinified just like all of the other reds: whole clusters, carbonic maceration, natural-yeast fermentation, no sulfur, no filtration. But like the Gama Sutra bottling, it is aged for 6 months in used barrels and bottled later in the spring following the harvest. Of all of the Vins Contés wines, this is the most structured and the least vin de soif in style. The nose is full of plums and flowers, accented with spicy black pepper and loamy earth. The palate is similar in fruit, with flavors of deep purple stone fruits and berries. There are subtleties of forest shrubs, warm green herbs, milled raw coffee, and a thread of dark minerality. A wine with both strength and finesse, I think it'll find its true balance over the next year, and will continue to mature for the next decade. A wonderfully pronounced wine from our friend Olivier Lemasson. David Hatzopoulos
Vins Contés (Lemasson) 2019 Vin de France R 19
The 2019 version of Les Vins Contés R is a blend of 40% Grolleau and 60% Cabernet Franc which undergoes a 7-day co-fermentation. It sees no added sulfur during production. Out of all the reds from Olivier Lemasson this vintage, I found it to be packed with the most youthful exuberance. Pronounced red fruits on the nose, like sliced strawberries and cherries, created the base for more delicate aromas of cinnamon and mint. The flavor profile was a medley of black and red forest fruit, tart beach plums, and menthol. Definitely a wine I'd suggest enjoying now for its lovely drinkability. I'd also suggest giving it a slight chill. Makes me think of summer in a shaded garden by the ocean. David Hatzopoulos
Foulards Rouges 2019 Vin de France La Soif du Mal Rouge
Les Foulards Rouges "La Soif du Mal" is one of the emblematic wines of the domain. As most of the cuvées, the name is a tribute to a movie, in this case Orson Wells' "Touch of Evil." In 2019, it is a blend of different plots of Grenache (5-year old vines on the hillside, 10-year old on the bottom part) with 20% of 60-year old Mourvèdre coming from a newly acquired plot also on the bottom of the hillside. Hand-harvested, the grapes are chilled on arrival, then vinified whole-cluster for 15 days at low temperature in carbonic maceration. All the free run and press juices are blended, then the wine is aged for 6 months in cuve before being bottle by hand without any fining, filtration or SO2. The nose is at first a little shy, then after 30 minutes, opens up on exuberant patchouli, lilac, coriander seed notes enhanced by some blueberry and vine peach hints. The palate is darker and chewier than expected, without losing its delicacy - I would put this on the Mourvèdre. It adds also some black raspberry, rose water, leathery and smokey notes, balancing very well the volubility of the Grenache. I picked up a little dissolved CO2 at opening so if you don't care for it decant or serve it in a larger glass. The wine held up very well over a couple of days. Enjoy it with roasted duck breast, cranberry and coriander seed jus or with beet carpaccio seasoned with pistachio oil and grapefruit zest. 80% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre. Pascaline Lepeltier.
Foulards Rouges 2019 Vin de France Grenache V V
2019 Foulards Rouges Grenache, written in Arabic, is from a parcel of 100 year-old head-pruned vines on sandy gravel soils over granite. Hand-haversted, the grapes are chilled on arrival, macerated whole-cluster at 15C temperature in tank without pigeage nor remontage in order to preserve the freshness. Free-run and press juices are blended than aged in 500 liters barrels (used) before being bottled by hand beginning of Spring without any SO2 addition. The Arabic spelling was made by Jean-François's mom who started to learn the language: he found it beautiful and thought it was a great way to name this cuvée. On the nose, this cuvée is the most open and exuberant, with intense sun-kissed pomegranate, rose and lilac aromas, combined with sweeter, salted caramel hints, and a touch of raspberry preserve. The palate is rounder and softer, with upfront strawberry, red cherry marmalade and red plum. The oak is felt a little more than usual on this vintage with soft Bourbon vanilla hints. Acidity is there, just hidden now behind the flesh. The finish is on sapid, licorice like tannins. If you can give this wine 1 or 2 months it will come together no doubt. Otherwise pair it with smoked pork short ribs or an eggplant ragout seasoned with Moroccan spice, with a quick decant, served in a medium-size glass around 16-18C. 100% Grenache. Pascaline Lepeltier.
Le Temps des Cerises (Prufer) 2019 VDF Fou du Roi
** originally priced $25.99 ** "Fou du Roi" (The Jester) makes us laugh because it is that good. The blend of Grenache Noir, Cinsault, and Carignan comes from Axel Prufer's biodynamic vineyards planted high in the Black Mountains of L'Hérault. Axel moved to the Languedoc from East Germany in the late 90s to join the growing natural wine movement. He promotes biodiversity in his vines; and in the cellar he works only with indigenous yeasts and without any added sulphur. This cuveé is made using carbonic maceration for a fresh, early drinking style that is simply hedonistic when served with a slight chill. Effusive aromas of ripe strawberries, cocoa, and spiced plum leap from the glass. The body is light on the palate but there is plenty of nerviness and boldness from the Grenache -- which becomes more pronounced over time; showing sapid cherry, strawberry, blood orange, and creamy dark chocolate flavors hours after opening. A fantastic example of a natural wine!
Le Temps des Cerises (Prufer) 2019 VDF Avanti Popolo
Born and raised in East Germany, Axel Prüfer moved to France as a young man in 1998 to pursue a career in winemaking. He resides in a mountainous region of the Languedoc and his vines are planted in various plots, all of them surrounded by thick forests. Axel doesn’t allow anything unnatural to come into the vines’ ecosystem, striving for a healthy, polycultural environment in which they can thrive. He uses this same, minimalistic approach in the cellar, although at times will employ a minimal dose of sulfur at bottling. Avanti Popolo is Carignan, Aramon (a rare grape from the region), and Cinsault. The nose is awash with bright red berry fruit, rose petals, and garrigue. It's zingy, spicy and very "funky." On the palate it's high-toned and fresh with invigorating fruit, spice, and minerals. Drink with a chill. -EL
Puech Redon (Eric Texier/Cyril Cuche) 2019 VdF Pour de Vrai Vin Petillant Artisanal et Nat
A collaboration between our good friend Eric Texier, and a biodynamic farmer named Cyril Cuche. Cyril’s family owns a massive chunk of land, which he has been working organically and biodynamically for over a decade. The estate has always practiced polyculture with wild forest, grains, vines, and more, all contributing to the biodiversity. Without any winemaking experience, Cyril turned to Eric Texier to help produce a wine with wild yeast fermentation and no added SO2. This is a frothy and refreshing rosé Pet-Nat that is unfiltered and quite delicate on the palate. A great choice for a thirst quenching afternoon bottle and a must try for fans of ancestral style Pet Nats. -Eben
Bulli nv Colli Piacentini Ortrugo Frizzante
This frizzante is 100% Ortrugo. A grape once used mostly as a blending companion to the more fancied Malvasia, it is known for articulated acidity, thus making it a perfect foundation for sparkling and semi-sparkling wines. In recent years, it has come out of the shadows and is frequently used for single-varietal wines, mostly coming from the region of Colli Piacentini in Emilia-Romagna, known for its limestone soil. The Bulli Ortrugo begins with vines of 10-50 years of age. Guyot trained. The grapes are picked in September and October. Native yeasts are used to ferment the wine dry, and after waiting over the winter months, grape must from the autumn harvest is added to induce secondary fermentation. This, of course, gives the wine a sparkle. Like all wines from Bulli, it sees no added SO2. When first poured, before getting air, the nose is crushed and chalky limestone. Released soon after are aromas of savory/sweet Jordan almonds, nectarines and blossoms, along with a trace of that original, almost smokey, minerality. The palate is salty, with flavors of firm pear, sage, and a very long, dry finish of fresh lemon zest. The color is that of homemade lemon-water. Contrary to what is said about Ortrugo, I didn't find this wine incredibly high in acid. Well balanced flavors and structure here. Paired very well with Friday night sushi. David Hatzopoulos
Bulli nv Colli Piacentini Rosso (Barbera, Croatina)
From 4 hectares of Guyot-trained vines (10-50 years of age) tended with organic methods, though not certified, in Colli Piacentini in Emilia-Romagna. Soils are rich in limestone. The blend is 60% Barbera, 30% Croatina, and 10% Uve Rare, harvested in in September and October. Fermentation is done with native yeasts, with 10-15 days of skin maceration. This wine sees no added sulfur. Upon pouring, the wine has a deep red core, and light purple edges. Pronounced aromas of ripe strawberries, blueberries, smashed red cherries, stems, watermelon rind, and a hint of woodsy smoke. The palate is not complicated, relying almost solely on a deep, juicy flavor of dark cherry. The structure and low ABV (11%) incline drinkers to gulp. Serve with a good chill. David Hatzopoulos
Del Prete 2017 Negroamaro Anne
Natalino Del Prete farms 10 hectares of mostly Negroamaro and Primitivo vines just north of Lecce in southern Puglia. Certified organic since 1994, his vineyards are never treated with any chemicals (they look quite wild!) and the vinification is decidely old-school, with minimal intervention and no sulfur added at any point, including bottling. The 2017 Negroamaro Anne is from a plot of 30 to 60 year old vines planted on clay soils. Rustic and slightly barnyardy on the nose, this wine opens with black cherry, black plum and a general medley of dark fruits, and finishes with notes of dark cocoa and earth. Medium plus bodied, with very good acidity, this is a wonderful example of "farmhouse" wine from the Italian South. Oskar Kostecki
Giol 2018 Prosecco Sur Lie (organic, no so2)
Another rare wine in the world of Prosecco – a true natural wine, certified organic, made without sulphur, refermented in bottle and aged on the lees. What you get is Prosecco with real character and rich flavor. It’s aromatically bright with lemon notes, and in the mouth is bone dry with refreshing green apple, savory and stony, and great with food with its charming very slightly bitter and fresh finish. A wine that way out-performs at the price. Jamie Wolff
Marco Merli 2018 Umbria Zerodibabo Rosato
Marco Merli left a career as a fashion designer to focus his energy on a small, 7 hectare farm that his father owned in Umbria. He quickly moved towards organic farming, and there is no sulfur used whatsoever. The Zeridibabo rosato comes from a .7 hectare parcel of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Ciliegiolo grown on clay and limestone. The vines range from 15 to 45 years of age.The nose is full of red fruit, with pomegranate, raspberry, red currants, red apple, red apple peel, and currant leaves. On the palate the Zeridibabo shows a hint of a bitter edge, with blood orange zest and a touch of an herbal presence to compliment the luscious red fruit of the nose. Very enjoyable, this wine was delicious on its own, though would also stand up very well to lighter summer fare. Oskar Kostecki
Maestro Tejero, Alfredo 2017 Vinos de Madrid A dos tiempos
Alfredo Maestro Tejero makes 'A dos tiempos' from a vineyard of equal parts Garnacha and Tempranillo near Navalcarnero, just south west of Madrid. The grapes are hand harvested in two tries about three weeks apart, first the Garnacha then the Tempranillo, then destemmed and fermented in a stainless steel vat before resting for 6 months in neutral oak. Harvest, fermentation and bottling are done without any additives and without sulfur. The resulting wine is dense, medium to full bodied, and characterized by intense notes of red fruit, bitter herbs and earthy minerality. Ben Fletcher
Oriol Artigas 2019 Alella El Rall
Oriol Artigas organically farms 7.5 hectares of very old vines in Alella, just north of Barcelona. His approach in the vineyard is low-impact, influenced by biodynamics: he does not do much pruning, encourages the growth of supportive plants among the vines, and follows the lunar calendar. El Rall is a new bottling from Oriol, from old vines of Merlot, Syrah, Garnatxa and Sumoll, vinified in stainless steel, some macerated whole cluster and some pressed directly, bottled without fining, filtering, or any additions. El Rall shows pretty green notes from the Merlot alongside bright and refreshing red and purple fruit and a bit of Syrah spice. At 12.5%, this bottling is more substantial and dense than Oriol's other red wines, but still refreshing and cooling, with delicate tannins. Serve with a bit of a chill. Ben Fletcher
Oriol Artigas 2018 Alella La Rumbera Blanco
Oriol Artigas organically farms 7.5 hectares of very old vines in Alella, just north of Barcelona. His approach in the vineyard is low-impact, influenced by biodynamics: he does not do much pruning, encourages the growth of supportive plants among the vines, and follows the lunar calendar. La Rumbera comes from a selection of vineyards of old-vine Pansa Blanca, which are hand-harvested together. The grapes are destemmed, crushed, and allowed to ferment with 20% skin inclusion in stainless steel. There's no use of additives or sulfur in Oriol's small, manually operated cellar. The resulting wines are full of character: influenced by the chalk soils and marine air, and showing a slight skinsy body, there's a tension between textural richness and mineral-driven freshness. The 2018 vintage shows a delicate touch, with the palate and the nose highlighting the salt, sea air, and chalky mineral character of Pansa Blanca, with just a touch of citrus. Ben Fletcher
Oriol Artigas 2018 Alella La Canya
La Canya is a blend of grapes from two sites: Garnatxa Blanca (80%) from a vineyard near the Mediterranean and Godello (20%) from the Mas Pelliser vineyard which surrounds Oriol's winery. The grapes are harvested at the same time, pressed together to macerate with skins for about two days, then co-fermented before raising in stainless steel tanks. Compared to the Pansa Blanca wines from Oriol, this wine shows more fruit character. The nose shows aromas of ripe apple, pear, and yellow flowers, while the palate has bright citrus and orchard fruit notes, like lemon juice squeezed on freshly-cut yellow apples. There's a salty, mineral core to the wine, which lends structure and a long finish. Ben Fletcher
Oriol Artigas 2018 Alella Lloritu
Lloritu is a new wine from Oriol Artigas, named for a commonly eaten fish in the Mediterranean. The grapes for this wine come from an old vineyard located about 50 meters from the Mediterranean which was planted to Jaque, a fascinating hybrid grape also known as Black Spanish in the United States. According to Jancis Robinson, this variety can most likely trace its history back to French Huguenot colonies around the Savannah river, and an accidental crossing between the native American Vitis Aestivalis and the imported European Vitis vinifera. Once widespread in Europe (especially the south of France, where it still forms a part of the Cuvée des Vignes d'Antan) and the United States, it is now common only in Brazil. For Lloritu, Oriol harvests his Jaque grapes then macerates them for a single night on their skins before fermentation with natural yeasts and resting in stainless steel tank. The resulting wine has a beautiful bright pink translucent hue, and a nose of tart cherry, anise and fennel. The palate is light, fresh, and salty, with cherry and pomegranate notes around a mineral core. Ben Fletcher
Goyo Garcia Viadero 2019 Ribera del Duero Garcia Georgieva Malvasia
I adore the wines of Goyo Garcia Viadero, who is making natural wines in Ribera del Duero with his wife Diana Semova Geogieva. They farm high altitude plots of old vines, vinify in a traditional and low-intervention fashion with indigenous yeasts and without sulfur additions, and produce wines of great complexity and elegant beauty. This bottling, 100% Malvasia from old vines macerated on the skins, is a new addition to their line-up. Tasting it in Mid-July, it impressed me immensely. The nose is redolent of exotic spice (white tea, allspice, star anise) , roasted almond, and stone fruit, while the palate shows apricot, peach and jasmine, with bright notes of ginger. The skin-contact grants delicate, refined tannins and rich, waxy body to the wine. Truly, one of my favorite "orange wines" that I've ever encountered: intense, elegant, and memorable. Ben Fletcher
Siflogo 2019 Lefkada Vertzami "Keropatis"
Siflogo is an organic wine project begun by Maria and Dionysis Papanikolopoulos on the picturesque island of Lefkada in the Ionian sea, off the west coast of mainland Greece. Here, ungrafted vines of indigenous grape varieties (Vertzami, Vardea, Mavropatrino) struggle on poor, very rocky, limestone soils. Keropatis, the name of this wine, is a local term for light red wines that are close to rosé in terms of body. Made from the dark, black grape Vertzami, this is a pretty, mineral and delicately fruity light red wine made with a short maceration and without the addition of sulfur. It shows notes of cranberry, candied sour cherry, and lots of limestone minerality. I've been drinking it with a slight chill - and it disappears very quickly! Ben Fletcher
Goyo Garcia Viadero 2018 Ribera del Duero Joven de Viñas Viejas
Goyo Garcia Viadero produces small amounts of elegant, minimal intervention Ribera del Duero from high elevation plots planted with old vines of Tinto Fino (Tempranillo). The Joven is a great introduction to Goyo Garcia's unique style. From a single vineyard of 35 year-old vines at about 860 meters of elevation, the grapes for the Joven are hand-harvested, destemmed, and then fermented with indigenous yeasts in steel tank. There is no fining or filtration before bottling, and no added SO2. For a Joven wine, this is strikingly serious and thoughtful without being heavy or extracted. Red and black fruits, with spice and violet show expressively on the nose after 30 minutes open, while the palate is a bit darker and more savory, with taut acidity, pretty tannins and a long finish that would pair nicely with sausages, lamb, or beef. (Wine arrives 3/12/20) Ben Fletcher
Celler Les Foes 2018 Castellon de la Plana Les Foes
Les Foes is whole cluster Garnacha from a 10 year old vineyard in Castellón, Valencia, planted, farmed and vinified by Roger Diaz, who is also a high school history teacher. Diaz farms his vines organically, with biodynamic treatments, and approaches winemaking in a very low-intervention style: fermentation is whole-cluster with natural yeasts in used barrels, and he never uses sulfur or other additives. When people think of Garnacha and Valencia they likely imagine a full-bodied, high alcohol wine, but this is fresh and bright with a joyous nose of earth, flowers and cherries and blackberries. On the palate it is truly refreshing and friendly, with soft notes of perfectly ripe strawberry, cherry, and spice. There's something special and beguiling about this bottle that kept me coming back for another sip over and over. Ben Fletcher